Jacket for a girl: master class with step-by-step photos. Blouse pattern for beginner tailors. Simple blouse patterns Sew a classic blouse with your own hands

It is not always possible to find in a store exactly the item that you think will fit perfectly into your wardrobe and emphasize your individual taste. And sometimes even a simple thing costs much more than its “real” cost, which completely discourages purchasing it. Then cutting and sewing skills come to the rescue, which will allow you to easily and quickly sew a beautiful blouse or skirt. Let's learn how to sew a blouse, having a minimum of relevant skills and experience behind you.

Photos of types of blouses

Depending on the design features, blouses are divided into 4 types:

With set-in sleeves;

"Raglan".

With one-piece sleeve.

Without sleeves.

At the same time, the named classification is not the only one, because there are many options for sewing them: neck cuts, collars, cut-off yokes, decor and much more. The blouse can be romantic, office, casual or any other style, have an A-shaped, fitted silhouette, be asymmetrical or have a variety of trims. Therefore, it is worth determining for yourself what exactly you would like to see in the end - a summer blouse for every day in the style a la "Carmen" or an option for the office - a strict American one.

Blouse patterns by types of sleeves

Items with set-in sleeves are especially appreciated among women who prefer convenience and simplicity. Pattern of such a blouse:

Raglan sleeves are characterized by seams running from the armpits to the neck. American armhole is the second popular name for this cut of women's blouses, tops and dresses. American pattern:

A blouse with a one-piece sleeve looks very laconic, gives a feeling of lightness and can visually expand the shoulder line, so this option is well suited for women with wide hips and narrow shoulders. Pattern for such an item of clothing with a chest dart and a one-piece sleeve:

A sleeveless blouse is best suited for summer: such a chiffon item in a woman’s wardrobe will be indispensable in the summer heat.

All patterns provided can be downloaded for free and printed on a suitable sheet of tracing paper to make it easier to transfer directly onto the fabric.

Step-by-step description: how to sew a short-sleeved blouse

We offer the simplest option for sewing a blouse with a short one-piece sleeve in a T-shot silhouette. It is with this model that you can start sewing things for yourself. By choosing the right material, you can get a product for any season.

Another simple master class on sewing a blouse with short sleeves and a dropped shoulder can be seen in the following video.

Master class: how to sew a blouse with your own hands

Is it possible to sew a simple cut blouse without using patterns? You can, and now we’ll look at how to sew a new thing in just 1-2 hours. To do this, it is better to purchase a flowing blouse fabric (chiffon, staple or another of your choice) measuring 60x150 cm. It is better to choose a more interesting color, since the style of the product itself is very simple. The sewing principle is as follows:

The result is such an interesting thing for the warm season:

Many novice dressmakers have noticed that even with strict adherence to all the parameters of the pattern and step-by-step master classes, the product is not always the right size. To avoid such mistakes, you should know some tricks:

• learning to sew is worth using simple fabrics: wool, poplin, linen;
• You need to sew the product only after trying it on: this step makes it possible to adjust the parameters of the parts and adjust them to your figure;
• take any pattern as an idea, and always draw the diagrams yourself, calculating the parameters of the parts based on the characteristics of your figure;
• Before cutting, treat any fabric with a hot iron under steam - the material will shrink a little;
• We must not forget about the margin for freedom of movement - there are allowances for this;
• Before sewing any parts, their seams must be ironed again with steam - without this manipulation, the item will look sloppy after sewing.

2016-12-23 Maria Novikova

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Hello, my dear blog readers)). I haven’t written complex articles for a long time, and in my opinion, today is just like that. We'll consider making a blouse pattern, in fact, if you look at it, sewing blouses and shirts has a lot of common principles, you just need to understand them once. And if you create a blouse pattern for yourself once, then you can then slightly adjust it and sew a huge variety of models of blouses, shirts and tunics.

It was exactly the same principle when we created the pattern for the base of the dress, so that we could then sew ourselves any model with a perfect fit on your figure.

Today we will consider construction and modeling a blouse like this, with a stand-up collar that turns into a bow:

This model is built on a pattern without darts; loose models, such as men's shirts, etc., are cut out on its basis.

I will now describe the construction of the pattern step by step, your task is to substitute your measurements.

I immediately give the increases that I will add to my measurements, the increases are the same for everyone.

Increases:

Pb=2.5 cm (if we tuck in the blouse) and 3.5 cm (if the blouse is worn over a skirt)

Shoulder extension = 0.5cm

T 1 T 11 - lowering the waistline along the front = 0.5 cm

Item Length = Hips

Fabric for a blouse. How to decide?

Thin cotton, cambric, poplin, chiffon are suitable for this blouse.

Fabric for finishing: satin, satin.

Building a base - a grid

The grid is a designation of the location of the main horizontal lines in the drawing - the lines of the chest, waist, hips, the width of the grid = the circumference of your body (more precisely, the upper body).

For the drawing we take graph paper. Place point A in the upper left corner.

1. AT down = Dts + 1 = 38 + 1 = 39
2. AG down = Vprz + Pspr = 20 + 3 = 23
3. TB down = Dlb = 20
4. TT’ right = 1.5 (this is a constant value, set aside for the model to fit on the back), draw a straight line through points A and T’. We put points G', B'.
5. G'G1 right set aside the width of the grid = Cr3 + Pg = 45.5 + 5 = 50.5
6. G'G4 to the right - side seam = G'G1 divided by 2 = 25.25
7. Armhole width = 0.25 times (Cr3 + Pg) + 1 = 0.25 times (45.5 + 5) + 1 = 13.6. From point G4 to the right and left we set aside half the width of the armhole (half of 13.6) = 6.8 cm

Building the back

1. AA2 to the right = 0.33 times Ssh + Pshgs = (0.33 times 18) + 1 = 7
2. A2A21 down = 0.33 times AA2 + Pvts = 0.33 times 7 + 0.2 = 2.53
3. A2 to the right is set aside 9. This is a constant value for everyone. We put point 9
4. From point 9 we put 2 cm down (this is also a constant value). We tilt the shoulder.
5. A2P1 down the slope to the right = Шп + shoulder lengthening = 13 + 0.5 = 13.5. Point P1 should extend beyond the armhole line by at least 0.5 cm. If the shoulder width is small (like mine = 11), then add the missing length to the shoulder width.
6. We build an armhole: 1) Point P3 = G2P, divide by 3 + 2 cm (constant value) up; 2) Bisector from point G2 = 0.2 multiplied by G2G3 + 0.5 cm (constant value) = 0.2 multiplied by 13.6 + 0.5 = 3.2. We draw a line for the back armhole through these points.

Construction of the front

1. T1T11 down = 0.5 cm = B1B11 down
2. Т11А11 up = Road accident - 1 = 44.5 - 1 = 43.5
3. A11A3 to the left = AA2 (take the distance from the back drawing) = 7
4. A11A4 down = AA2 + 1 = 8
5. From point A3 to the left 9 cm. From point 9 we put 3 cm down. We draw a straight line through points A3 and 3 - the slope of the shoulder.
6. A3P5 is set aside according to the slope of the shoulder = A2P1
7. Front armhole: 1) Point P4 = draw a perpendicular to the straight line from point G3;) Find point P6. = G3P4 divided by 3. point P6 is on the lower 1/3.; 3) Bisector from the angle = 0.2 times Г2Г3 = 3.2 cm

Width at hip line

1. G'G4 = B'B21 is placed on the horizontal line of the hips
2. We calculate the lack of width along the hip line: (Sb + Pb) - G'G1 (grid width) = (48 + 2.5) - 49 = 1.5 cm - this is the lack of width along the hips. This means you need to add width, otherwise the blouse will be too small at the hips. We divide this difference by 2 (in my case it is 0.75 cm) and set aside 0.75 cm from points B21 to the right and B2 to the left. We put points B"2 and B"21.
3. connect point G4 to B»21
4. We then connect point G4 to B»2.
5. We draw a bottom line along the back perpendicular to the tap line (AB’)
6. We equalize the side sections of the blouse: G4B"21 = G4B"2
7. We draw a bottom line along the front of the blouse, but since point B11 is 0.5 cm below the level, we draw a bottom line under the pattern.

This concludes the basic construction of the blouse. Next we will do modeling of a given model, but other blouse models can also be built on this basis.

Modeling a blouse

Now we will analyze the main points of changing the drawing in order to get exactly the same model as in the photo.

Stitched button placket

We cut off half the desired width of the strip from the product drawing parallel to the front center line. My desired width of the strip is 3 cm.

1. B11B’11 left = 1.5 cm
2. through point B’11 we draw a vertical upward
3. set point A41

Next to the drawing we draw a bar 3 cm wide and length = B’11A41

IMPORTANT! if the bar is stitched, then the loops on it can only be vertical, if the bar is one-piece, then the loops can also be horizontal

We place the location of the loops on the bar:

The first loop is 1.5 cm below the top cut (this is standard). Then we determine the number of buttons, determine the distance between the loops and mark the upper edges of the loops.

In this case, the distance between the last loop and the bottom line should be greater than the distance between the loops.

Loop length = button diameter +3 mm

Stand collar with ties

We mark on the drawing the control point for sewing the collar into the neckline: from point A41 we put 2 cm to the left. We set a control point.

To determine the length of the collar, measure the length of the neck.

Collar length = (Back neck length + Front neck length to reference point + 50 cm for ties) multiplied by 2 = (7.8 + 9.5 + 50) multiplied by 2 = 140

The collar width is as desired. I took 6 cm.

The collar has a 9 cm extension at the ends. We expand the collar to the desired width at the ends.

The collar is a straight strip of fabric, cut along a transverse thread; we do not glue it with double tape.

TURNINGS

We decorate the facing of the blouse on the details of the front and back in the neck area. The width of the facings is 4 cm.

Reducing the shoulder length

It is necessary to reduce the length of the shoulder along the front and back to the measurement Shp + 1 cm = minimum lengthening of the shoulder so that the sleeve visually looks in place. Cut off excess to points P3 and P6. In the drawing this area is shaded on the shoulders.

Layout on fabric:

Flap pockets

Modeling valves. Front decor.

• On the front part, mark the level of stitching of the valve - 4 cm above the armhole level. From point G1 we set aside 4 cm upward and draw a horizontal line.
• From the plank line on this horizontal line we put 5 cm to the left. This is the beginning of the valve.
• Valve length 9 cm.
• Valve width 5 cm.

Curly corners.

The flap should not reach the armhole line at least 3 cm.

We cut out 4 parts so that the inside of the valve is not visible from the front side; we need to make the inner half of the valve a little smaller. We do this through allowances. On the outer part of the flap the allowance is 1.3 cm, and on the inner part - 1 cm; when sewn and turned right side out, the inner part will not be visible and will be more beautiful.

Read about creating a sleeve pattern at the link. I’ll write about the stages of sewing a blouse a little later)).

Sew with me) and inspiration to you))))!

You can download a blouse pattern for a girl for free in the desired size using the following links:

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to your specified email. If the file has not arrived, you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. In any case, if you do not receive the pattern, you do not need to pay again, just contact the address immediately [email protected]

**You can offer your payment option in the site feedback

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Allowances: add 1.5 cm to the seams and along all cuts, 1-2 cm to the hem.

Uncover:

1. shelf-2 children

2. back - 1 child. With fold

3. sleeve - 2 children

4. folded collar - 2 parts

5. Collar stand with fold - 2 parts

6. cuff-2 children

7. mold-2 children

8. shelf strip - 2 children

Duplication with gasket:

Front panel - both parts completely, 1 collar and 1 collar stand

Sewing:

• Back, shelf, shelf strip.

Sew darts on the back. Iron the depths to the line of the middle of the back. Duplicate the shelf strips with an adhesive pad and iron them exactly in half along the entire length. When cutting the details of the mold, pay attention to the direction of the grain thread. Process the details of the mold using a rolled seam on an overlocker or a Moscow seam, and iron. Pin the finished mold to the shelves. Unfold the shelf strip and pin it face to face to the shelf. Stitch. Don’t forget that the bottom of the bar should coincide with the length of the shelf. Iron the seam ON the side of the bar. We process the second long side of the strip with an overlocker, bend it along the ironed middle to the wrong side, pin it and sew it. We do the same on the second shelf. At this stage, it is possible to additionally stitch the strips on the front side. Sew side and shoulder seams. Overcook the seam allowances and iron them ON the back.

• Collar.

Sew backed and non-backed collars face to face. The duplicated collar will be the lower one, and the non-duplicated collar will be the upper one. We cut off the allowances of the duplicated collar close to the line (not reaching the line 1-3 mm). We cut the allowances of the upper non-duplicated collar at the curves of the collar. We turn the collar onto the face and carefully straighten it with our fingers. We iron it so that the upper unduplicated part has a slight “overlap” onto the lower collar. This is necessary so that during operation the upper collar does not pull up the lower collar. Our collar is ready at this stage. Place the finished collar between the two collar posts, pin and stitch. Don't forget that the duplicated collar stand should be on the side of the duplicated collar! You need to combine the parts starting from the middle, then you will get a strictly symmetrical part in the end. We cut off the allowances of the duplicated collar stand close to the stitching, the rest is notched at the curves, turned onto the face, and ironed. We pin the unduplicated collar stand face to face to the product. You need to start from the middle. The mark on the collar stand should line up with the shoulder seam on the garment. We grind. We iron the seam of the connection ON the collar stand. We fold the duplicated collar stand, pin it and sew it to the product.

• Sleeves.

Place soft folds on each sleeve according to the markings. Sew the sleeve seams. Because This model has cuffs without buttons, so we do not duplicate the cuffs. I suggest cutting them out of butter knitwear. Fold the cuffs in half, face inward, and sew a short edge using an overlocker. Turn it inside out and fold this ring in half. We sew the cuff face to face to the bottom of the sleeve, process the cut with an overlocker and iron it onto the sleeve. We sew off the head of the sleeve at the distance of the allowance with a line with the longest stitch length. We combine the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder seam on the blouse, we combine the side marks of the sleeve with the marks on the front and back. Carefully pull the ends of the thread - this will immediately show how much you need to gather the sleeve so that it fits into the armhole. Carefully straighten, pin and sew the sleeve into the armhole. We remove the tightening thread and process the sections of the sleeve and front taken together with an overlocker.

Consider the sequence: sewing blouses for girls 5-6 years.

We send patterns for free. We will also send you pattern this blouse comes in 5 different sizes.

To sew a blouse, I used embroidered towel made of fine linen fabric.

Uncover.

Pattern I used 122 size. Location patterns visible in the photo. In this blouse, the main decoration - embroidery - will be on the sleeves.

We cut out the front and back from the middle towel. If there is not enough fabric to cut the front and back from a towel, you can cut the back from white fabric that matches the structure. We leave 1 cm for seam allowances. We make the front and back parts with a fold. We also cut out the trim for the neckline, 52 cm long and 4 cm wide, taking into account allowances; facing of the front cut 13 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances; 2 cuffs 17 cm long and 4 cm wide with allowances; 2 bindings for edging sleeve cuts 15 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances.

Sewing.

We make the front cut. We apply the facing (front to front) to the place where the cut is planned along the line of the middle of the front. We turn the edges of both longitudinal sections of the facing towards the center and iron them. We pin the facing. The folded edges of the facing lie at the top, as can be seen in the photo.

We lay a straight line around the cut markings, as close as possible, literally close to the markings, while catching the folded edges of the facing.

This is the view from the back side:

Now we make a cut along the seams.

We turn the facing to the wrong side, iron the edges and sew at a distance of 5 mm. We turn the lower end of the facing and attach it with a transverse stitch.

View from both sides

We make cuts on the sleeves. We process the cuts with binding.

Fold the sewn binding right side to right side and make a diagonal stitch at the top of the end of the cut.

Iron on one side. The cuts have been processed.

Stitch the side seams of the blouse, leaving the side slits open.

We also sew seams on the sleeves.

We gather the lower sections of the sleeves to the size of the cuffs. To do this, we make a machine stitch with the largest step at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge and tighten the thread.

Sew the cuffs to the bottom edge of the sleeve. To do this, apply the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, front side to front; We make a stitch, also taking the turned-down short sections of the cuff.

To make a fastener on the cuff, we sew 2 thin rolls, 4 cm long, for an air loop. Turn the cuffs up.

Fold the cuffs in half with the wrong side inward, turn in the inner edge of the cuff, and attach the cuff to the sleeve. We make an air loop in one of the short sections of the cuff, and stitch the other section. After fitting, we will sew buttons there.

The sleeves are ready, you can sew them in.

We sew the sleeves into the armholes. Iron it.

Let's start processing the neck. At a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge of the neckline, machine stitch with the largest stitches. Tightening the thread, gather the neckline by 8 cm, the sleeves by 11 cm, and the back by 12 cm.

Preparing the edging tape; We apply it to the cut of the neckline, right side to front, turn the short sections of the binding to the wrong side and attach.

We prepare two colored laces for ties. We turn away the binding, bend it in half with the wrong side inward, and fold the inner longitudinal section of the binding. We put the ends of the ties inside the front parts of the edging tape. We attach the binding to the neck.

We iron the hem allowance for the bottom of the blouse and the side slits to the wrong side, then turn it under and adjust it at a distance of 0.5 mm from the edge. Smooth it out.

Sewing blouses for girls completed. You see how easy it is to sew such a blouse. A few hours of creativity and the blouse for the little fashionista is ready.

If you like the idea of ​​sewing a blouse, we will send blouse pattern for free.