To correctly identify the right and wrong sides of the fabric, spread the fabric on the table so that both sides are visible at the same time. Usually, the front side is distinguished by the brightness of the color, the severity of the pattern and the smoothness of the surface. But this method is not suitable for all fabrics. In addition, if for some reason you doubt the correctness of determining the sides of the fabric, use our simple tips.
1. On the surface of printed fabrics, a printed pattern is applied, which on the front side is always bright, saturated and clear, the wrong side is more faded or monochromatic.
In smooth fabrics, the seamy side is fluffier, which is determined both tactilely and visually.
2. Allowable (not considered a fabric defect) defects on some fabrics, such as thickened sections of threads and small knots, are always displayed on the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Most plain fabrics have colored threads on the edges from the right side, which are practically invisible from the wrong side.
4. The sides of textured fabrics, such as bouclé, jacquard and lace fabrics, Chanel style fabrics and others, are easy to distinguish both visually and tactilely - by the volume of the pattern, the structure of the threads, the brightness and convexity of the print and other characteristic features for a particular fabric.
5.In satin fabrics the front side is always glossy, with a pronounced shine, and the back side is matte.
Pattern:
A dress in a delicate aquamarine shade, combining the glossy and matte sides of the same fabric, looks ...
But as the front side, you can use either side to get a certain effect in the finished product.
6. Crepe and double-faced fabrics are usually the same on both sides.
7. If the fabric has a fleecy surface, then, as a rule, this is the front side.
8. When buying fabric, ask the seller which side is the wrong side and which is the front.
9. In plain, thin and transparent fabrics - chiffon, batiste, muslin, gauze, viscose and matte silks, as well as cotton and linen - the seamy side is determined by the hem. As a rule, there are punctures on the edge of any fabric; they are convex on the front side, since they are made from the seamy side.
If it is still not visually clear what the punctures look like, slide your finger along the edge of the fabric, on the front side you will feel the aforementioned bulge from the punctures.
This method of determining the front and back sides can be used for any fabric.
In addition, there are inscriptions and lettering on the edges, thanks to which it is easy to identify the sides of the fabric.
The edge without punctures from the seamy side looks rough, from the front - smooth.
If you want to sew something with your own hands, you need to determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric before cutting. This will not only have a positive effect on appearance products, but will also facilitate the sewing process.
Many fabrics are produced by factories in double-sided form. That is, they have an identical appearance on both sides. In this case, choose the side you like and sew. But what if the fabric has both the front part and the wrong side; how to distinguish them from each other?
Fabrics without a pattern
To begin with, the fabrics coming from the factory are folded along a piece of fabric. In this case, the front part is "hidden" inside. This is done so that you can immediately apply a pattern, cut and baste (only from the inside out).
Printed fabrics
If the drawing is printed, then on the front side it will look brighter and clearer. If the image is created by stamping (punctured holes), the needle passes from the inside out to the face, so they can be identified by touch: on the "smart" side, the hole will be convex, and on the inside, it will be concave and smooth.
Seamy side
They try to “hide” all kinds of nodules, thickenings and other “clues” on it; also it is this part that will roll. This is determined by running your hand over the surface (or rubbing it lightly) and compare with the opposite side.
Front side
If the fabric, by definition, has a fleecy surface, then it will be located on the outside. If an absolutely smooth appearance is provided, then the seamy part may be covered with a little fluff or villi, but they will not be on the front. If both sides have pile, then from the face it will have a more well-groomed, sleek look and go in the same direction.
Gold and silver threads in fabrics with lurex, applique or neat embroidery are placed on an "elegant" thread.
For fabrics such as satin, the face is indicated as a smoother, shinier and brighter part.
For fabrics with scars, they are located from left to right and go from bottom to top.
Instructions
1. Spread the fabric on the table, folding it so that both sides are visible at the same time: front and back. On a printed fabric, compare the crispness and richness of the pattern. On the front side, the ornament should be brighter and more distinct. Run your hand over the fabric. The front side of the printed material is usually smooth and slightly shiny, while the back side is slightly fuzzy and matte.
2. Inspect the canvas on both sides. Pay attention to the various defects: thickened or elongated threads, knots, etc. Usually they are taken to the wrong side. There should be no defects on the front side of high-quality fabric. For expensive fabrics with metallic threads, the front side should be more elegant and shiny.
3. In plain-colored fabrics with twill or plain weave, there are no qualitative differences between the front and seamy side... Such fabrics are called double-faced.
4. Look closely at the edge of the fabric. There are colored threads on the front side of the edge of the woolen fabrics, which are almost invisible on the inside. The edge of any fabric is smooth on the front side, and knots and roughness can be seen on the wrong side.
There are punctures along the edge, usually from the inside out to the face. Then there will be concave holes on the wrong side, and convex holes on the face. At the same time, be careful, sometimes it happens the other way around.
5. The front side of silk and satin fabrics has an attractive glossy sheen. The seamy side of such fabrics is usually matte. The face of fuzzy fabrics, as a rule, has a thicker and longer pile than their wrong side. It must be remembered that some materials, such as a bike, have the same nap on the front and back sides. Fleece is considered a two-faced material. Clothes from it can be sewn with a pile outward or inward.
6. When buying fabric, pay attention to how the fabric is rolled up. Domestic silk, linen and woolen fabrics, as a rule, are packed with the front side inward, and cotton fabrics - with the wrong side inward.
Determination of the right side of the fabric.
To determine the right side of the fabric, first of all, it is necessary to find out what type of weaving of threads in a given fabric. After all, the fabric consists of two systems of threads intertwined at right angles: longitudinal threads - warp and transverse - weft.
The main weaves are plain, diagonal or twill, satin or satin. Plain weave is the most common. In this case, one thread of the weft overlaps one thread of the warp. This weave has the same surface on both sides. Calico, calico, most linen fabrics, dress fabrics made of natural and artificial silk, and wool are produced with such an interweaving. Face side One that looks cleaner, is better finished, has less fluff is considered to be one dyed fabric with a plain weave. Printed fabrics have a pattern on the front side.
The diagonal, or twill weave, forms stripes (scar) on the fabrics. With this weave, one weft thread overlaps two or three warp threads, or vice versa. With this weave, cashmere, boston, cheviot, lining twill, etc. are produced. Twill weave fabrics, when cut in the opposite direction, sometimes give a different shade. The face in these fabrics will be the one where the scar goes from bottom left to top right.
With satin or satin weave, the fabric has a smooth, shiny surface. In this weave, in satin one thread of the weft overlaps from 4 to 8 threads of the warp, in satin, on the contrary - one thread of the warp overlaps from 4 to 8 threads of the weft. The front side of the fabric is shiny and the back side is matte.
In addition to the above types of weaves, there are others derived from them, as well as combined ones.
Determination of lobar and transverse threads.
The properties of the lobar and transverse threads are different. Lobar threads shrink more than transverse threads. This is due to the fact that the warp threads are taut during weaving, and the weft threads run more freely. Therefore, falling under the influence of moisture and steam, the warp threads acquire their original position, that is, they go around the weft threads, and the fabric shortens (shrinks) along its length. Shrinkage of fabric can be deliberate, which has a positive effect - this is the so-called decating. In case of accidental exposure to non-cut fabric, the product from it also shrinks, but this is a negative phenomenon.
Some techniques for determining the share and transverse thread: the share thread goes along the edge; during a tensile test, the lobar thread almost does not stretch, and the transverse thread is more extensible; on fleece fabrics, in most cases, the fleece is located along the shared thread; with a test on the lumen it can be seen that the lobar filaments lie more evenly.
The fabric that is removed from the looms is called harsh or harsh (Fig. 37). It has a rough surface. The color of the fabric corresponds to the color of the fibers from which it is made (linen - a grayish tint, cotton - yellowish).
Rice. 37. Severe fabric: a - linen; b - cotton
The rough fabric is finished. The main purpose of finishing is to improve the quality and properties, to give the fabric a presentation.
Finishing consists of a number of different processes:
- preliminary finishing (cleaning and preparation of fabric);
- whitening;
- staining;
- drawing a picture;
- final finishing.
Finished is a fabric that has been finished. Various types of fabrics are obtained depending on the finishing method (Fig. 38).
Rice. 38. Types of fabrics by finishing method
The finished fabric has two sides - front and back (Fig. 39), the same width along the entire length of the fabric. There should be no stains or other imperfections on the fabric. If there are defects on it (spots, unpainted places, holes, tightened edges, etc.), then they are marked with chalk before starting work.
Rice. 39. Sides in printed fabric: a - front; b - purl
The sides in the fabric are determined by the following features: pattern, shine, pile, edge, cleanliness of the finish (Fig. 40).
Rice. 40. Definition of sides in fabric
Basic terms and concepts
Fabric finishing, right and wrong sides of fabric
Questions and tasks
- What is fabric finishing?
- Why do you think the fabric is finished?
- Name the types of fabrics depending on their finish.
- What is the difference between gray fabric and bleached fabric?
- What kind of fabric is called plain dyed?
- Why is dressing performed?
- What are the criteria for determining the sides in the tissue?
Laboratory work 3. Determination of the front and back sides of the fabric
Equipment: tissue samples (3-4), a needle, a needle bar, scissors, glue.
Work order
- Examine fabric samples and determine their appearance by the method of finishing (see fig. 38).
- Find the right and wrong sides of each piece of fabric (see Figure 40).
- Cut the sample into 2 equal pieces.
- Draw up the completed work in the form of a table.
