Right and wrong side of fabric. How to determine the right side of the fabric. What is its difference from the purl How to determine the facial

10.02.2021 Widgets

As www.hunky-dory.ru informs, abbreviations are often found in the descriptions of models, specifying what you knit on the front (persons) or on the seamy side (out.). Quite often such clarifications precede a whole series of instructions.

It is easier to distinguish the front side from the back side when several rows are connected and the pattern is visible. Of course, this also depends on the type of buttonhole used. To understand which side you are knitting on, you can also focus on the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If this thread is in the left corner of the product, then you knit on the front side and, conversely, if it is in the right corner, then you knit on the wrong side. This is because the base row following the initial chain of chain stitches is knitted from right to left.

If you knit a single fabric and use this type of loops, which has a different structure on the front and back sides, then you can choose which side is considered "front" as you wish. At the same time, some complex patterns, in which several colors of yarn are used, have an easily recognizable seamy side.

Some types of loops have a similar structure on the front and back sides. To distinguish between them, you can look at the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If the front side of the product is in front of you, then this thread will be in the lower left corner. And, conversely, other types of loops have a different structure on the front and back side.

The description often specifies on which side of the product should be worked: on the front (persons) or seamy (out.). Typically, these abbreviations precede the description of work on the shape of the product.

When knitting complex multi-colored patterns, it is very important to be able to distinguish between the front and the wrong side, since the unused threads of the motifs should be pulled along the wrong side.

Based on materials from the magazine "Wonderful hook"

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Working with fabric requires accuracy, the final result depends on it. The product must be free from defects, therefore, when cutting, it is important to correctly determine the wrong side.

For most fabrics, it differs visually, but, for example, with chiffon or organza, this cannot be done, therefore there are other methods of recognition.

At weaving factories, double-faced canvases are also made, in which case the seamstress independently chooses on which side to cut.

These include:

fleece;
some types;
silk stretch;
costume wool;
tapestry, corduroy with a fur seamy side.

Such materials can be used for sewing various products - coats, capes, jackets, blazers, ponchos.

We study the structure and design of the fabric

It is very easy to distinguish the seamy side from the front side if you buy a canvas with a print. You need to lay out the pattern on it where the pattern is dull. The "face" of printed fabrics is easily identified. From the outside, the image is bright, clear, saturated, and from the inside it looks faded.

You can easily identify the right side of jacquard and printed fabrics. In the process of weaving threads on the machine, the relief is formed on top. The underside is smoother. On it you will not see the knots typical of Chanel and bouclé fabric.

What if you have to work with a plain canvas? The seamy sides of silk, satin, satin are matte. The gloss and shine of the fibers is present only on the outside. Finding out where the wrong side of a smooth fabric is is simple: the surface on it is more fleecy, weaving defects (knots, thickening of the thread) are found.

Edge detection

On any canvas, a sealing weaving is performed on both edges to prevent shedding. It is called an edge, which is created by introducing an additional thread (sometimes it can differ in color). It is visible only from the front side of the fabric. If you notice letters, numbers or writing, position the canvas in a comfortable reading position, this will be the face.

Most sure sign definitions are punctures made by a loom along the edge. The needles are inserted from the seamy side, holes are formed, therefore, bulges are formed from the front, which are felt tactilely.

This method helps dressmakers figure out how to cut correctly:

gauze;
muslin;
organza;
batiste;

Some fabrics are not punctured at the edges. In this case, take a close look: where the surface is smooth, there is a "face". WITH back side it is rough, with nodules and thickenings.

In order not to be mistaken in determining the wrong side, ask the seller to mark it with tailor's chalk when buying. Just do not delay the opening, the image may disappear after a while. If you have tried all the methods, but still have not determined where the face is and where the wrong side of the fabric is, place the pattern on the side that you like best, the main thing is not to confuse them in the process.

Before buying material for sewing, you should know how to determine the front side of the fabric by the edge, pattern, pile, etc. After all, the appearance of the product will depend on its choice. But the most important thing to do is to define the sides before cutting the product. It is not recommended to do such an important matter in the evening and with very bright artificial lighting, as it distorts reality. In the morning, it may turn out that the choice made was wrong, and the fault of everything is optical illusion.

How to determine the right side of the fabric

Arriving at the store or examining the fabrics on the things available at home, you will notice that by appearance they are quite different. Their difference can be both in the type of surface (openwork, embroidered, with a woven pattern), and in the type of color (multi-colored, printed, smoothly dyed or bleached). There are also multi-colored jacquard fabrics - tapestry. Such fabrics are considered difficult to manufacture, but it is very easy to determine the front side of them.

Many people know that, depending on their fibrous composition, fabrics go through different finishes. Natural are singed, bleached, dyed. All finishing is done on one side of the product - the front. When weaving, all irregularities and knots are hidden on the seamy side, therefore, on the front side, all fabrics are smoother and brighter, with a clean surface or, conversely, with a raised, convex pattern. It will also be different to the touch (smooth and pleasant, has a clearer, embossed pattern).

How to distinguish the right side of the fabric from the wrong side

You should be aware that fabrics are one-sided and two-sided. The seamy and front sides of one-sided fabrics are quite different. In bilateral ones, they differ slightly or do not differ at all. Sometimes both sides of the web can be used equally.

The front side of different types of fabrics

So, how to determine the front side on plain fabrics and not only:

Printed fabric: where it is brighter, there is the front side.
Patterned fabric (woven): This fabric will have a crisper and more prominent pattern on the right side.
Fabrics with satin and satin weaves. On the front side, these weaves have a brighter and smoother surface, the scar goes at different angles, and has a beautiful appearance. From the inside out, these fabrics are more like canvases with plain weaves.

Fabric with sequin trim, embossed metal Lurex thread, leather-like finish, embroidery. In fabrics made from mixed raw materials, the front side will always look "more expensive". In all cases, the seamy side will be superior in beauty to the front side. The embroidery threads will lie flat, without knots, the stitch will completely cover the pattern.

More complex signs of determining the face

Not all pile fabrics have a pile on the right side. The pile side of the bumazey is the wrong side, but usually this fabric has a printed pattern and a beautiful smooth surface from the face. But velvet, velveteen, velor are beautiful from the side of the pile, so it is difficult to make a mistake in determining the front side. For example, plain flannel refers to a double-sided fabric - it has the same color on both sides, plain weave and villi.

On the front side of the drape, the pile is smoothed, and it is located in one direction, or there is a dense, lint-free pattern. This type of fabric on the seamy side may have a looser weave.

This also applies to the cloth. It is, in most cases, and strongly vortexed, which leads to some difficulties in the process of determining the front side. It is necessary to drag your fingers with effort from different sides and in different directions, and the side where the pile is less dense, of less quality, is the wrong side.

What if all of the above methods of how to determine the front side of the fabric did not give an answer? You can identify the side by the quality of the surface of the matter. That is, the front side will be the side where the surface of the fabric does not have fluffs, knots, it is smoother. The presence of fluff is inherent only in natural fiber fabrics.

To determine the presence of villi or the brightness of the color, the material should be brought up to eye level and looked at the light. If it was not possible to detect pronounced defects, then such a tissue can be attributed to bilateral.

Determining the side of the web along the edge

You can determine the right side of the fabric by the edge (both by its quality and by the holes in it). The edge will be better on the front side. When the fabric is pulled over the calenders during the finishing process, holes remain. It is generally accepted that they should be at the top with the convex side, and the concave - from the wrong side, but in practice it happens the other way around.

Conclusion

Before cutting complex tissues, it is necessary to designate the front side in several places, preferably in inter-muscular lunges. This is usually done with chalk, drawing crosses. This is important not only in order not to mix up the details when sewing, but also for trimming strips, hem, flaps, etc.

If all visual methods have been sorted out, and doubts have not disappeared anywhere, do not forget about tactile sensations, because the sensitivity of your fingers will never let you down.

It also happens that the seamstress deliberately wants to choose the seamy side (the one that is the seamy side for the people who created the fabric), because it seems to her, on the contrary, more attractive.

And if it was not possible with complete confidence to choose one of the parties, then except for the owner of the finished product, no one will know about it, because everything is learned in comparison.

Even at the stage of fabric selection, you should decide on its facial and wrong side, because the appearance of the product will depend on this. Confusion can lead to a fatal cutting error and ruin the item. The result can be affected not only by a lack of knowledge, but also by lighting, so it is undesirable to look at the fabric in the evening or in too bright light. There are a number of criteria that will help to correctly determine the sides of matter and will help avoid common mistakes.

In this article, we will summarize the experience of professional tailors, which will be useful to a wide range of readers.

Determine the front and back sides of the fabric

The fabrics are one- and two-sided. In the first, the front and back sides have big differences that cannot be overlooked. The latter have the same or hardly distinguishable sides. Moreover, some materials use only one of them, while others have the wrong side and face equal.

Simple signs
Fabrics with a printed pattern are an easy object for determining the sides of the material, because the pattern on the front side is brighter than on the wrong side.

Woven fabrics have a sharper texture on the right side. Such materials include jacquard and guipure with cord thread. They can combine jacquard and printed patterns.

The weaving of satin and satin is characterized on the front side by the presence of a scar located at different angles. In addition, the front surface is smoother, shinier and more pleasant to the touch than the back one.

The twill can be easily distinguished by the rib on both sides, which is angled at 45º, but on each side it has a different direction. On the front surface, the scar goes from left to right and from bottom to top, and from the inside - vice versa. Twill lining fabrics are characterized by a shiny silk surface on the front side, and on the inside it is rough and matte, since it uses cotton thread in the manufacture.

Sequins, metal thread, embossing and embroidery make it easy to define the right side. And in blended fabrics, a more expensive material is used for the front surface. In any case, the front side will look more attractive and richer, so it is impossible to make a mistake.

More complex cases
When studying pile fabrics, you can make a mistake when determining the sides, since the pile can also be from the wrong side, like a bumazeye. The latter has a smooth front side, and is framed with a printed pattern. You can unmistakably determine the wrong side of velor, velvet and velveteen - the fabric looks attractive only from one side.

One-sided flannel can puzzle a novice tailor, since it is difficult to distinguish the sides - linen weaving and pile are present on both sides. Moreover, the reverse side and the front side are colored the same.

The front side of the drapes is distinguished by a smoothed pile and a pattern that has one direction, or a dense pattern, in the absence of a pile. Loose weaving is a hallmark of the seamy side of this fabric. You will have to take a closer look at the double-sided drape: from the inside, the pattern is less clear, or the pile does not look very neat.

The cloth also presents some difficulties in determining the sides of the fabric. This is due to the fact that the plain weave is rolled up. The front side can be identified by the interwoven colored thread. If you force your fingers over the surface of the fabric on both sides, then the wrong side will be the side with the lighter pile and the worst surface quality.

If the above signs cannot be determined, then they are guided by the properties of the surface. The side with better quality fabric, fewer imperfections and a smoother surface is the obverse.

The presence of fluffs as a criterion can be used in the study of cotton and linen fabrics with a smooth color and plain weave. To assess the brightness of the fabric and the presence of villi, you need to direct light onto the material along its surface.

Difficult cases
Synthetic fabrics are very difficult to define the seamy side and the front side. They do not have defects, lint and weaving knots, which is associated with the use of modern technologies for their production. All properties and color of the material are set at the stage of thread formation.

The quality of the edge and the presence of holes on it is the only sign that can indicate the front or wrong side. The edge with the best quality serves as a sign of the right side. Holes in the fabric are formed by pulling on the calenders, even at the stage of finishing the material. However, even these signs can be deceiving. Not always, as is commonly believed, the convex side of the holes is on the front side; their reverse arrangement is also possible.

Determining the sides of a rep weave can be difficult. Reps is made not only from cotton fibers, but also from synthetic silk. He, like crepe and tartan, refers to two-sided materials, which does not allow you to find the difference between the inside and the face.

When considering woolen fabrics, you should pay attention to the brightness of the colored threads: the side with a more saturated color is considered the front. If the material is rolled into a roll, then the front side in it faces inward.

Instead of a conclusion
If the fabric does not lend itself to determination by all of the above methods, then you should rely on tactile sensations. Women's fingers are the most sensitive instrument, so it is difficult to deceive them.

It happens that the cutter has a desire to knowingly use the wrong side. The discrepancy between the views of the authors of the fabric and the opinion of the tailor is normal. If the seamy side seems more attractive to create an outfit, then you need to follow your feelings. Moreover, no one will know which side was considered the front.

Natural fibers

Cotton (CO).

Cotton fiber is obtained from cotton bolls. The quality depends on the length of the fiber - the longer it is, the better and more expensive the cotton.

Properties. The cotton fiber is very durable, comfortable to wear and heat resistant. Differs in excellent hygroscopicity, absorbs a lot of moisture (20 - 65% of its own weight) and does not seem wet. In the process of mercerization (treatment with sodium hydroxide solution while stretching the fiber), cotton fibers acquire a soft sheen, their tensile strength and absorbency increase.

Mercerized Cotton in comparison with the usual one - more durable, better dyeing and slightly shines. The cotton fabric gives you almost no warmth, so it is perfect for hot weather. The heat-shielding properties can be enhanced by the teasing process. Cotton fabric wrinkles and shrinks when washed. Special processing - dressing or refining - makes the cotton crease-free and non-shrinking.

Cotton fiber is very resistant to wear and ironing, it does not stretch, does not cause allergies, and absorbs moisture.

Care requirements. Boiled linen can be washed in washing machine at a temperature of 95 ° С, colored linen - at 40 ° С. White cotton is best washed with all-purpose washing powder, and colored items - powder for fine fabrics. Terry towels and underwear will become very soft when tumble dry, even without the addition of softeners when rinsing.

However, drying cotton fabrics by machine can cause severe shrinkage and should only be used with the permission symbol. Ironing of articles made of finished cotton fabric is performed in the "wool" mode. In other cases, cottons can be ironed in the cotton setting, best with a little moisture.

Other plant fibers are rarely used for the production of underwear.

From the stems of this plant, flax fibers are obtained, from which yarn for linen is spun.

Properties. Linen has a very smooth surface with a matte sheen, little dirt and almost no flaking. Linen easily absorbs, retains and quickly releases moisture (up to 23%). Due to its hygroscopicity, linen clothing has a positive effect on the natural thermoregulation of the body and is perfect for summer and tropics. Linen is a very durable material, and when wet it is even stronger than when it is dry. The presence of vegetable glue in its composition makes the canvas harder and tougher than in cotton fabrics.
Linen is a crumpled material, but it crumples plastically.

Care requirements. Linen is well boiled. But depending on the type of finish, it is better to wash it at a lower temperature: colored cloth - at 60 ° C, finished - at 40 ° C, in a car with a gentle mode. White or bleached linen is washed with all-purpose powder, unbleached and colored linen - with powders for delicate fabrics. In doubtful cases, it is better to give the product to dry cleaning. When drying in a tumble dryer, linen can shrink heavily. When ironing, the iron is allowed to heat up very high, and the fabric should always be dampened.

Hemp (HA).

Hemp fibers have only recently been used by designers to make clothing fabrics. First, the sticky substances and pectin are released from the stem and the fibers are separated. The fibers are then processed again and made into yarns and materials. Hemp fibers are yellow-brown or brown and difficult to bleach, however they can be dyed bright or dark colors... The look and feel of hemp is very similar to linen, but it repels water better than any other fabric. It has low elastic properties, reacts to heat treatment and sunlight in the same way as cotton, easily wrinkles, and it should not be very ironed or wrinkled, as this adversely affects the condition of the thread. The best hemp fiber for the textile industry is made in Italy.

This is Chinese nettle. The characteristics of the fiber are very similar to flax. Made from Boehmeria nivea (a bush native to Southeast Asia, China, Japan, Southern Europe). The color is white, the thread is very shiny, like silk. Ramie fibers are very long, do not stretch well, but they have excellent characteristics in terms of wear resistance - twice as high as flax and five times as high as cotton. The material can be dyed well without losing its magnificent silk shine. Perfectly absorbs moisture and dries quickly, resistant to bacteria and mold. Rami is used in a mixture with wool, silk fibers or as a linen substitute. It is an inexpensive but very practical and beautiful natural fiber. However, it is somewhat coarser than flax, and also has low elasticity.

Sheep wool.

The main "supplier" of wool fibers is sheep. In addition to it, other animals give fine wool - goats of the Kashmir and Angora breeds, angora rabbits, llamas, alpacas and camels.

Used by the manufacturers of woolen fabrics designations "Reine Wolle" (cleaned wool) or simply "Wolle" refer to low quality wool or regenerated wool, which is made from recycled wool. The designation "Schurwolle" (sheared wool) is used only if the wool is obtained from shearing of healthy live animals and contains no more than 7% of foreign fibers. Reine Schurwolle (sheared sheared wool) contains no more than 0.3% impurities. Manufacturers of only such wool are entitled to use the symbol indicating that it meets international quality standards (Woolmark).

Properties. Woolen fabrics are a little dirty and hardly wrinkled. Often, it is enough for woolen clothes to hang a little in a damp room to smooth out wrinkles and remove the smell of sweat, food and smoke. The surface of the woolen fabric repels water droplets, but absorbs up to 40% moisture in the form of steam. Wool dries slowly. However, it retains heat well and has the property of falling off, which enhances its thermal insulation properties and makes it windproof.

Care requirements. Wool is washed mainly by hand using detergents for delicate or woolen fabrics. The water temperature during washing should not exceed 30 ° C. Washing should be done with plenty of water. Wool does not like long soaking. Woolen products are never rubbed or twisted. They are not squeezed out, but carefully rolled into terry towel, then not hung, but laid out for drying. Under no circumstances should woolen clothes be dried in a car, in the sun or on heating appliances. Jackets, trousers, skirts, etc. are best dry-cleaned. It is necessary to iron woolen products in the "wool" mode, with steam or through a damp cloth.

Lambswolle / WO

Wool from the very first shearing of a young six-month-old lamb. The woolen hairs have not yet rounded and roughened, they are very thin, pointed and short. Wool is not tear-resistant, but infantile and soft, caressing the skin. It is used in the production of thick knitwear.

Merino wool. Sheep of the best merino breeds are bred in Australia and New Zealand. This is an elite breed of sheep. The smoothness of merino wool yarns and fabrics is due to the length, uniformity, silkiness of the hairs of the wool. This wool is not prickly, it is thin and soft, often used for underwear and thin summer knitwear. Ideal for baby clothes, so it does not irritate the skin. Other types of fibers are rarely added to it, and then only in order to make it cheaper. Merino wool more expensive than wool common sheep.

Alpaca / WP

From the point of view of zoology, alpaca belongs to the order Lama Genus, divided into three branches: llama, guanaco and alpaca. A separate, fourth, branch is vicuña. Together, these animals form the family of South American camels.

Alpacas live on the high plateaus of South America at an altitude of 4-5 thousand meters in extreme climatic conditions. There is very strong solar radiation, cold winds are blowing and there are sharp temperature changes: from –20 ° С at night to + 15–18 ° С during the day. To survive in such conditions, alpacas must have a special coat: light, thin, soft and at the same time so dense as not to let water through. Especially valuable is the wool of suri alpaca, which are considered to be highly bred animals. The suri's fur falls down the sides like a mane. It is longer, shinier and straighter than other alpacas, which is why it is valued so highly. However, suris are not suitable for breeding in livestock farms, so their share in the total volume of alpaca wool is only 15%.

Alpaca haircut is experienced every two years. At the same time, they are never sheared, like sheep, "naked", because in the complete absence of hair, animals in such harsh climatic conditions will simply freeze. Therefore, the collection of wool for one haircut is not so high: a maximum of 3.5 kg of wool is cut from one animal, and even half a kilogram less from suri. This naturally melange wool is sorted exclusively by hand. Thin, soft, it has a graceful shine. Processed alpaca wool is stored for a long time, without losing its natural qualities and advantages, and is used only in high-quality expensive materials. Alpaca coats and outerwear are not exposed to moisture, give cozy warmth and ease. Due to the fact that individual wool fibers are long, alpaca wool does not fall off and practically does not form pellets. The silk-like softness of alpaca wool is not only noble but also easy to care for. It is enough to lightly brush it over it and hold it a little in the fresh air, and it will be like new again. Alpaca wool products can be dry cleaned.

The wool of the South American semi-wild or partially domesticated llama. A haircut is done every two years and yields 2 - 3 kg of raw material from the animal. Llama wool is often used in expensive outerwear. Characteristic features: perfectly retains warmth, lightness, softness and fluffiness, has a rich color range... The yarn made from this wool is dense, so no pellets form on the product.

Camel wool (WK)

Camels have a dense hairline that reliably protects them from the harsh climate and sudden changes in temperature. Camel hair is not cut. It is harvested when molt in early summer. Up to 5 kg of wool can be obtained from one animal per year. The best wool taylak is combed from ghoul non-working camels, because it is the thinnest. Camel hair removes static electricity and is not electrified. It practically does not bleach and therefore comes in a natural color, dark or black. A young camel up to one year old is white.

Kashmir (WS)

This fiber is obtained from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat, whose homeland is Mongolia, Afghanistan, and the Himalayas. Kashmiri goats live in the mountains at an altitude of 5000 m and have a wonderful dense wool. They are not cut, but the fluff is chosen from the guard and integumentary hairs during the change of the hairline. The output of down, cleaned from awns, is very small - from 100 to 200 grams per year per animal. High quality Kashmiri down is one of the most expensive natural materials. Cashmere comes in white, gray, brown and black natural colors. In order to dye the wool, the original color is first etched, which leads to a deterioration in quality: the wool becomes stiffer and loses its elasticity. Kashmiri goat yarn is very light, warm and soft, but too susceptible to friction and pilling, so cashmere is usually blended with wool fibers in different proportions... Knitwear containing cashmere must be hand washed with gentle agents at a temperature not exceeding 30 ° C. You cannot squeeze and twist it.

Angora (WA)

This is the wool of the Angora rabbit. Down combing is done twice a year. High quality wool has a length of 6 to 10 cm. Shorter hairs are very difficult to hold in the thread when spinning and twisting. It is this not very high quality wool that falls out or “crawls out” from cheap woolen products. Modern, hybrid bred in Germany, Angora rabbits have a long pile with an amazing brilliance and a high coefficient of heat retention. These animals are sheared five times a year and receive 900 to 1000 grams of fine wool from each shearing. Despite being thin, angora hairs are very strong. Angora wool is most commonly used in combination with other wool grades and synthetic fibers in knitted products... New weaving technologies have made it possible to use Angora wool in modern woven fabrics. In its pure form, it is practically not used. Firstly, because it is quite expensive, and secondly, because it is completely inelastic. However, angora is just perfect when mixed with sheep or merino wool, acrylic. It gives products warmth, softness and lively hairiness.

Mohair (WM)

This yarn is obtained from the wool of angora goat. Straight fibers, with a single fiber length of 120 - 300 mm, hardly roll off. Products made from fabrics, which include mohair wool, have a peculiar smoothness and noble shine and silkiness. Mohair is an excellent heat regulator. Fabrics containing a high percentage of quality mohair are very durable, but require special care and are difficult to sew. Kid-Mohair is the wool of a young angora kid, especially soft and flowing like silk hair. Mohair wool is quite expensive and is most often spun with woolen or synthetic yarn. Mohair dyes well, it is easy to clean from dirt. They wash it very carefully so as not to lose its "fluffiness".

Natural silk fiber is obtained from silkworm cocoons, that is, caterpillars that occur in nature or are specially bred by humans. The highest quality silk is considered to be twisted silk made from long threads extracted from the center of the cocoon. The length of such a thread can even reach one kilometer.

Properties. Silk clothes are pleasant to wear in any weather. It warms in the cold and gives coolness in the heat. Any silk fabric absorbs moisture in an amount equal to almost half its own weight, and at the same time does not feel wet to the touch. Silk quickly evaporates moisture from the surface of the skin. However, sweat can cause permanent stains that make silk brittle. Silk fabrics can be very light and soft or heavy and stiff depending on the quality, the type of weaving of the fibers and the finish. Accordingly, they crumple to a greater or lesser extent. The disadvantage is their low light fastness.

Care requirements. It is recommended to dry-clean silk clothes. It is mandatory for items made of taffeta, silk brocade, chiffon, organza, silk satin and georgette. Printed and dark silk fabrics are also better for cleaning, as silk sheds heavily during washing. Wash it by hand at 30 ° C with a mild washing powder. Do not rub the silk fabric with your hands, wring it out or twist it. First, the silk must be rinsed well in warm water, then in cold water. At the end of the rinse, you can add a little vinegar to the water to refresh the color. Silk must not be dried by machine, or in the sun or near heating appliances. Wet silk items should be carefully wrapped in a cloth and lightly squeezed out of the water. Iron the silk with a moderately heated iron in the “silk” mode from the wrong side, in a slightly damp state. When ironing, the fabric should not be sprayed; this may cause stains on it.

Chemical fibers

Artificial cellulose fibers

Viscose fibers (VI).

Viscose is the most natural of all chemical fibers. It is obtained in the process of regenerating cellulose from coniferous wood (spruce, pine) by reaction with sodium alkali and carbon disulfide. Cellulose dissolves in water and forms a viscous mass. Viscose streams passed through small holes become viscose fibers when solidified. Thus, viscose is a natural cellulose without impurities. Modern complex chemical processes give a huge assortment of viscose fibers, different in their basic qualities. Depending on the purpose, they are made with a glossy or matte surface. Viscose can be made to look like silk, cotton or wool by changing the sheen, thickness of the fibers or "curling" them. For example, thickenings and nodules on the fibers can give it the appearance of flax. Viscose is soft, with a silky sheen, absorbs moisture well. It is used in a mixture with other materials, most often with elastane. It gives the viscose fabrics elasticity, and they do not wrinkle so much. Viscose garments are easy to wash, but must be handled with care.

Properties. Viscose fibers absorb moisture better than cotton, but they are less durable when wet and less durable. In terms of their physicochemical properties, viscose fibers repeat natural materials (cotton, wool), and compete with silk in terms of gloss and smoothness.

Care requirements. It is recommended to wash viscose by hand or in a machine in a gentle mode at 30 - 40 ° C with detergent for delicate fabrics. Viscose fabrics cannot be rubbed, twisted or wrung out in a centrifuge, they can be hung to dry completely wet or rolled into a sheet and gently wrung out. It is also forbidden to machine dry them. Iron the viscose with an iron in the "silk" mode in a wet state or through a damp cloth. Viscose products can be dry cleaned.

Modal (MD).

It is a fiber converted from beech cellulose. It is considered a more modern type of viscose.

Modal properties. Modal products are pleasant, silky to the touch, absorb moisture well, “breathe”, do not shrink when washing, retain their shape, have a soft shine, retain the intensity of colors for a long time, and do not cause allergies. In terms of physical and chemical properties, modal can be compared to cotton. Products made from it are more durable than from viscose. It is used in high quality and expensive collections. Mixed with cotton, it gives the fabric a subtle sheen and an elegant look. A blend of cotton with modal replaces the cotton mercerizing process.

Care requirements. When washing, it is advisable to turn the product inside out and avoid the use of bleaching agents, as they cause the material to roll.

Lyocell (LYOCELL, TENCEL).

It is a fiber from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees. New generation viscose. Feels like a cotton when worn.

Properties. Lyocell is a silky and soft fiber, when wet it is three times stronger than viscose; does not roll down, stains well, has a soft sheen, breathes and absorbs moisture well. In the production of lyocell, it is used in various formulations, for example, lyocell with elastane, lyocell with modal and elastane. The surface of tenzel or lyocell fabrics resembles dense wet silk and has an ash tint.

Care requirements. Wash at 40 ° C, ironing preferably from the wrong side.

Cupra (CUP).

Cupra yarns are made from cotton cellulose. It dissolves with copper salt and ammonia (from Lat. Cuprum copper - copper), then endless threads with a matte sheen, which are very reminiscent of natural silk, are spun from this mass. The fiber is very thin and smooth. This is the noblest, highest quality and most expensive cellulose-based fiber. The production process is environmentally friendly and is characterized by a significant consumption of expensive copper.

Properties. Cupra fabrics behave like silk: they absorb moisture well, breathe well, are pleasant in the heat and warm in the cold. They are draped in beautiful waves, which makes them indispensable for elegant dresses and blouses.

Care requirements. For cupra fabrics, we recommend a gentle machine wash at a temperature of 30 - 40 ° C or hand wash with detergents for delicate fabrics. They must not be rubbed, twisted or heavily rinsed, or dried in the machine. Iron the fabric after complete drying from the seamy side in the "silk" mode.

Acetate (AC) and Triacetate (TA).

Unlike viscose, acetate and triacetate fibers do not consist of pure cellulose, but of cellulose acetate (cellulose waste).

Properties. Acetate and triacetate silk fabrics have a slightly shiny surface and look very similar to natural silk. They perfectly retain their shape and hardly wrinkle. Acetate silk does not absorb moisture well (only 6% of its own weight), but dries quickly. He does not tolerate high temperatures(melts at 210 ° C) and dissolves in acetone. Triacetate silk absorbs even less moisture than acetate silk, but it is more heat resistant (melting point about 300 ° C) and retains its shape well when pleating.

Triacetate silk can withstand normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the “silk / wool” mode. Otherwise, products made from triacetate are treated in the same way as from acetate silk. Viscose mixed with acetate is used as lining. Care requirements. For acetate silk we recommend hand or machine wash at 30 ° C on delicate setting. Dry cleaning is possible. Clothes made of acetate silk should never be machine dried; they are hung to dry. Silk acetate dries quickly and does not need ironing. If you still want to iron it, do it from the wrong side with a barely warm iron. Triacetate silk can withstand normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the “silk / wool” mode. Otherwise, triacetate products are treated in the same way as silk acetate products.

This fiber appeared on the Russian market quite recently. Meanwhile, in the East, it is not less widespread than cotton. However, its properties are in many ways superior to it.

Bamboo is the fastest growing plant in the world: it can grow up to 22 m in height in a month. Its cultivation does not require the use of fertilizers and pesticides, so bamboo fiber is an environmentally friendly material. The production process of this fiber (using steam and boiling) does not harm the environment. Unlike harvesting wood, cutting bamboo does not damage the topsoil or destroy the plant itself, so it quickly recovers without accumulating dirt in the trunks.

Bamboo fiber has a natural shine, is softer than cotton and feels like silk. The bamboo fiber fabric is non-irritating, has natural anti-microbial and deodorant properties, and contains the anti-microbial component bamboo kun, which prevents the growth of bacteria. It has been experimentally established that more than 70% of the bacteria present on bamboo fiber die.

Bamboo fiber linen is very comfortable thanks to its unusually porous structure. Moisture from the surface of the skin is instantly absorbed by the tissue and evaporates. This property of bamboo linen is even more pronounced than that of cotton, which is famous for its high absorbency.

Artificial protein fibers

Soybean fibers are environmentally friendly. Knitwear made of them is similar in appearance to silk, in hygroscopicity - with cotton, and in terms of heat protection - with cashmere.

Studies have shown that soy fiber has unique antibacterial properties, maintains natural body temperature, has a beneficial effect on human skin and improves its energy balance.

Corn grains (ingeo).

Ingeo fibers are manufactured in an environmentally friendly manner. In their pure form, these fibers are oily and silky to the touch, and when mixed with, for example, wool, they acquire the characteristics of wool. They weave beautifully, better than wool and cotton.

Synthetic fibers

Polyester (PL, PES).

It is a polyester fiber, the most diverse of all synthetic fibers.

Properties. Polyester has the highest crease resistance. The classic blend is 50% polyester with 50% wool or 50% cotton. Polyester has very good light fastness, is a heat-resistant fiber, excellent cleaning and washable. The fiber is thermoplastic, due to which the products retain the pleated and corrugated effects well. In terms of resistance to abrasion and bending, it is second only to nylon fiber. However, polyester has very low hygroscopicity, poor dyeability, increased rigidity, electrification and increased pilling properties. All these disadvantages can be eliminated by the production of ultrafine microfibers (mickofibre).

Care requirements. Polyester can be machine washed at 40 ° C. Some polyester fibers can withstand temperatures as high as 60 ° C. At higher temperatures, wrinkles can form on the fabric, which can then be very difficult to remove. White fabrics should be washed universal powder, colored - powder for delicate fabrics. Polyester can only be lightly machine-dried at a low temperature, but never dry. In this case, it is necessary to follow the rules of care indicated on the label so that hard-to-remove jammed folds do not appear. Polyester jersey is dried only when unfolded. Polyester does not require ironing, but if you do need it, iron should be done with a moderately heated iron (in “silk” mode) and through a damp cloth. Polyester products can be dry cleaned.

Polyamide (PA).

The most famous polyamide fabrics are nylon, nylon. The most famous microfibers from polyamide are taktel, meryl, cordura, suplex.

Properties. Same as polyester. Polyamide fibers are the strongest of all raw materials in textile products in terms of tearing and abrasion. Due to its excellent strength in compounds with wool and cotton, polyamide endows fabrics with strength and stability. In the process of weaving, blended fibers contribute to the formation of complex and interesting structures and connections / weaves of yarns.

Care requirements. Same as polyester. But polyamide fiber is more sensitive to heat, so it should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C. Iron the polyamide at the lowest heat and without steam.

Polyacrylonitrile fibers (PC).

The most famous fabrics are acrylic, nitron, kurtel and orlon.

Properties. The softest, silky and "warmest" synthetic fiber. Polyacrylic is produced almost exclusively in the form of high-volume crimps and therefore has a strong wool-like feel. Meanwhile, it is superior to wool in terms of heat-shielding properties. But in terms of abrasion resistance it is inferior even to cotton. It has low creasing and shrinkage, low hygroscopicity, highly electrified and pilling, but pills disappear due to low strength properties during wear. To eliminate the disadvantages, modified fibers have been created - modacrylic (MA).

Care requirements. These requirements are the same as for polyester, but PC products should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 30 ° C. Drying by machine is excluded.

Elastane (EL).

These highly elastic fibers are capable of being stretched sevenfold and then retracted to their original length. Elastane fibers (best known under the trademark LYCRA) are typically used as fabric additives and are almost never used in their pure form. SPANDEX is the American name for elastane. The addition of elastane to fabrics and knitwear improves consumer properties, but at the same time increases the cost of products.

Properties. Elastane fibers make fabrics elastic and, like synthetic fibers, give them crease resistance. Fabrics with the addition of elastane fibers are very durable, retain their shape and color, hardly wrinkle and do not require special care.

Care requirements. For all fabrics with elastane fibers, there are general rules - when washing, use powders for delicate fabrics and do not tumble dry. The temperature during washing and ironing is determined by the chemical composition of the fabric.

Microfibers.

Fabrics such as belseta, tackel, diolen are made from polyester or polyamide fibers.

Properties. These endless filaments or filaments are ten times thinner than the filaments of a silkworm. They are processed into unusually thin yarn, from which fabrics so dense are woven that they become impervious to wind and rain, but at the same time they allow moisture (sweat) evaporating from the body to pass through, that is, they contribute to good air exchange of the skin. Since they do not absorb moisture, but let it go outside, where it evaporates, clothes made from such fabrics are always pleasantly dry from the inside. Microfiber fabrics are very soft and lightweight, besides they have all the positive qualities that are appreciated in conventional synthetic materials: they are tear-resistant, do not require special handling, etc.

Care requirements. Microfibre items can be machine washed at 40 ° C on delicate setting. When rinsing, do not use emollients, otherwise the fabric will lose its water-repellent properties. Products cannot be wrung out and dried. They are hung to dry. Ironing of these fabrics is usually not required, but it can be done with a moderately heated silk iron.

Summarizing the above, we offer retail employees theses on the topic “Fabrics and Fibers”.

Fabrics and fibers (abstracts)

Animal fibers