Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - building the basis
If you decide to sew for yourself, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and build a base pattern by which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress.
But first, let's take measurements.
To build a drawing of the pattern-base of a woman's dress (size 48), you need to take the following measurements:
1. Dress length 100 cm
2. Back length to waist 38 cm
3. Shoulder length 13 cm
4. Semi-girth of the neck 18 cm
5. Half-girth over chest 44 cm
6. Semi-girth of the chest 48 cm
7. Semi-girth of a waist 37 cm
8. Hips half girth 50 cm
9. Armhole depth 20.5 cm
IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (OG) of more than 80 cm.
Where to begin?
Before you start building the dress pattern, decide on the silhouette. It is important for yourself to determine what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, we will add to the freedom of fitting the product.
We are building a dress of an adjacent silhouette and taking an increase in the freedom of fitting to the half-girth of the chest by taking 1.5 cm.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - calculation of auxiliary values
Let's calculate the auxiliary values that we need when constructing a pattern:
Back Width (SHS). Calculation formula: 1/8 OG + 5.5cm = 17.5cm
Armhole Widths (SPR). Formula for calculation: 1 / 8OG -1.5cm = 10.5
Chest Width (WG). Calculation formula: 1 / 4OG -4cm = 20cm
Armhole depth (GPR). We measure it or, to check the measurements, we calculate it using the formula GPr = 1 / 10OG + (10.5-12cm) = 20-21.5. If the calculated value does not match the measured value, take the average between them.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 1-2
Step back from the top of the paper 10-15 cm down and in the left corner put point A. Down from point A draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 the girth of the chest to the measurement of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.
Armhole line. From point A down to postpone the Depth of the armhole by the measure + 0.5 cm - points G and G1 are obtained. Draw a horizontal line.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 3-4
From point G to the right, set aside Back width +0 cm (for freedom of fitting) and Width of armhole + 0.5 cm (for freedom of fitting), chest width + 1 cm.In total, we made an increase of 0 + 0.5 + 1 = 1.5 cm - this is the increase that we laid above. From the points obtained, draw vertical lines up to the intersection with AB.
Waistline. From point A down, lay the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw a segment TT1.
Hip line. From point T, lay down 20 cm - the height of the hips as measured - point L. Draw a segment LL1.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 5-6
Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with an increase in half, from the point of division draw a vertical line down to the intersection with DC - we got a side line. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole with crosses into 4 equal parts.
Back collar. From point A, set aside 6.5 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Construct a curved line for the neckline of the back.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 7-8
Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (neckline of the back) and 1.5 (slope of the shoulder) with a straight line. Shoulder length - 13 cm.
Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the corner 2 cm long (for all sizes) and draw a cutout of the armhole of the back using the template or by hand, relying on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 9-10
Raising the shelf. From point Г1, lay 24.5 cm upward (1/2 half-girth of the chest by measuring +0.5 cm) - point Ш. From point Ш draw a horizontal line. Raise the auxiliary vertical line of the armhole (see Fig. 9).
Front neckline. From point W to the left, lay aside 6.5 cm (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure + 0.5 cm) and down 7.5 cm (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure + 1.5 cm). Build a cutout of the front neck according to the pattern (or freehand).
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 11-12
Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.5 (neck) set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short oblique line.
From point 1 downward, draw an auxiliary perpendicular with a dotted line to the line of the armhole ГГ1. Set aside 1 cm to the right and connect points 1-1 with a straight line (the right side of the breast dart is built).
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 13-14
Chest dart. Divide the right side of the breast dart in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the dividing point (Half-girth minus half-girth above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Draw the left side of the bust dart through point 4, length = the length of the right side of the bust dart (fig. 13).
Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top of the left side of the chest dart to the upper dividing point of the auxiliary line of the back armhole.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 15-16
Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (13cm (length of the measured shoulder) minus 4cm (length of the shoulder to the right side of the breast dart) minus 1cm) and down at a right angle 2cm (for all sizes). Draw a line of the front shoulder.
From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dashed line to the lower dividing point of the auxiliary armhole line, cut it in half (Fig. 16). Draw a bisector 2 cm long from the lower right corner (armhole).
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 17-18
From the point of division of the auxiliary dashed line, set aside at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 17). Along the pattern or by hand, draw the cutout of the front armhole along the control points: shoulder point, point 1, point 2, to the side.
Calculation of darts:
We calculate the darts in this way: 1/2 chest girth minus 1/2 waist girth = 48-37 = 11 cm. This is a surplus of fabric at the waist, which we need to remove in darts. We remove 1/3 of the obtained value in the side darts and 2/3 in the back and in front - a little more in the back and a little less in the front.
Side darts: 11cm / 3 = 3.6cm (round up to 4cm) (fig. 18). IMPORTANT! The side lines are shifted to the left and right from the starting line (hip girth control: 1/2 hip half girth by measure + 1 cm). Lack of volume on the thighs + 1 cm split in half and add to the back and shelf on the sides (from the thigh line to the bottom of the product).
Dart on the back 4 cm, on the front - 3 cm.Total 11 cm.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 19-20
Back tuck dart: Divide the width of the waist of the back to the side in half and from the point of division, draw a vertical line to the armholes and hips. Draw a dart as shown in fig. 19.
Front dart. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waistline. Draw a dart as shown in fig. twenty.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 21-22
ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a “kinky” back, the excess fabric can be tucked into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see fig. 21 blue lines).
Rice. 22. Ready-made pattern. Re-take separately the front pattern and the back pattern of the dress and proceed to modeling.
Note:
Semi-girths (we divide the measurements of the girths in half and get half-girths):
Rice. 1
Ssh - half-girth of the neck
Cr1 - first half-girth of the chest
Cr2 - second chest half girth
Cr3 - third chest half
St - waist half-girth
Sat - half hip
Lengths:
Rice. 2
Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Dts - back length to waist
Accident - the length of the shelf to the waist
Rice. 3
Width:
Шп - shoulder width
Wg - chest width
Shs - back width
Rice. 4
Heights:
Vpkg - oblique shoulder height chest 
Rice. 5
Vpks - shoulder height oblique back
Rice. 6
Bg - chest height
We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1-4. When taking measurements of the girths of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the measuring tape should be located strictly horizontally at the narrowest / widest point (depending on the measurement). When removing the loops, there is no need to tighten the tape, as this can lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and shelf, as well as to determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.
Increases for freedom of fit
The increments depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. We will take average values as an example. And you also need to take into account that we use the increments to build half of the product.For an example of building a dress, we will take size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.
Measurements:
W = 18.5 cmCr1 = 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat = 52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
Wd = 17.3 cm
Ws = 18.3 cm
VPC = 43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm
Increases:
Pg = 6.0 cmFri = 3.0 cm
PB = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
PDT = 0.5 cm
PDTP = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm
Meshing calculation:
Net width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg = 48.0 + 6.0 = 54.0 cmBack width (A0a) = Shs + Pshs = 18.3 + 0.8 = 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) = Wr + (Cr2-Cr1) + Pshp = 17.3 + (50.4-45.9) + 0.3 = 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) = Shpr = Shset- (Shsp + Shpol) = 54.0- (19.1 + 22.1) = 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts = 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts + Pdts = 42.9 + 0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
The position of the thigh line (A0B) = Dts / 2-2 = 42.9 / 2-2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.
Meshing
Step 1
Rice. 7
We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we put off to the right the width of the grid - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.
To the right of point A0 on the line A0a1, we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.
To the left of point a1 on the line A0a1, set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.
Downward from point A0, we postpone the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).
From point A0 downwards we lay down the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on the segment A0G, it postpones the position of the waist line and we get point T.
And the position of the hip line is postponed from point T on the segment A0G and we get point B.
From point a1 downwards we also postpone the height of the grid and get the point H3. We close the rectangle.
From points G, T and B we draw horizontals and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line ГГ3 and get points Г1 and Г4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.
Building a drawing of the back
Step 2
Rice. eight
From point A0, we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the retraction of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0 ".
From point A0 "down the line A0H, we postpone the level of the blades, which is 0.4 * Dtc = 0.4 * 42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. connect point Y with point A0" with a time line.
We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A = A2A1 = 7.2 / 3 = 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "Y. We finish building the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a curved curve.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eight.
Step 3
Rice. nine
From point T to the left on the TT3 waistline, we postpone the withdrawal along the waistline = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.
To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from point H to the right a bend equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and we get point H1. We draw the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.
From the neck of the back along the middle seam, put the length of the back down and get the point H (of the correct length).
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. nine.
Step 4
Rice. ten
We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck solution = 13.3 + 2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the tuck opening is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 is equal to Bpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk = Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case = 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 = 43.7 cm.
At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, set point P1.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. ten.
Step 5
Rice. eleven
We begin construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located at 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, take the value 4.0 cm.
When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the solution of the dart = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 with a step of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.
We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neck A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.
Step 6
Rice. 12
We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of the line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm.To build point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm.Put P3 from point G1 from the chest line by segment Г1а1.
From the angle Г1 of the armhole, we draw a bisector with a length = Spr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.
Auxiliary point Г2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Shpr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.
Step 7
Rice. 13
The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 13.
Building a shelf drawing
Step 8
Fig. 14
To plot the center point of the chest, the distance Г3Г4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22, ½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the Г3 point to the right and we get the Г6 point.
For the products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from the point T3 and get the point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.
To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor = 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. The depth of the neck is calculated using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and wires with a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and we get the point of the neck A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make notches and we obtain an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw an arc of the neck of the shelf.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. fourteen.
Step 9
Fig. 15
We postpone the position of the highest point of the mammary glands from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg = 27.5 cm and get point G7.
At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the tuck opening from point A4, we find point A9.
We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and we get a chest dart of the shelf.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.
Step 10
Rice. 16
To determine auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance П1Г1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we obtain the distance П4Г4. Further, this distance is Г4П4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and we postpone this distance from the point Г4 upwards and we get the point П6.
Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.
We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 16.
Step 11
Fig. 17
To build the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.
From the angle G4, to build the armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.
Through points П5 - П6 - Г2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.
Drawing side lines
Step 12
Rice. eighteen
We will start the construction of the side lines along the chest line from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. Draw a vertical downward from point G4, this is the centerline of the side seam.
At the intersection with the waist line, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.
For the design of the side seam, take 0.4 * P-p tuck = 0.4 * 11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.
Next, we calculate the extension along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm.We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, so that postpone the extension on the thighs on both sides of the B2 point. And we get points B21 and B22.
In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we postpone the same values as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.
Through points G4-T21-B22-N22 and G4-T22-B21-N21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eighteen.
Step 13
Rice. 19
To build a dart along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this distance T1T21 / 2 = 21.8 / 2 = 10.9 cm and we get point T4.
Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line (P-r elongated - P-r elongated side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm.This solution is also halved 3.8 / 2 = 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.
The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 19.
Step 14
Rice. twenty
To build a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the line of the hips - we get point T5.
Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line P-p elongated - P-p elongated side-P-p elongated cn = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm.This solution is also halved 3, ½ = 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.
The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is the same as on the back of 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. twenty.
Step 15
Rice. 21
To build the relief lines, it is necessary to translate a part of the breast dart of the shelf. To do this, set aside 4.0 cm with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the dart of the back = 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.
We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the translation radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.
Now, from point A4, set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, set the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we get point A8. Then we connect the points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the shoulder line to the line of the shelf relief and a section of the shelf relief.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.
Step 16
Rice. 22
To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the center line of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.
We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.
Rice. 23
The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.
Step 17
Rice. 24
Next, you need to translate the main parts of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.
If these are your first steps in design, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress must be sewn from the mock fabric and the fitting must be carried out to be sure that no errors occurred in the calculations and construction.
Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the neckline and armholes of the back and shelf. And also, if desired, decorative elements - yokes, flounces, edging, etc.
Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Prepared by Anna Soboleva
If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and build, by which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress.
But first -.
To build a drawing of the pattern-base of a woman's dress, you need to take measurements (size 48):
- Bust 96 cm
- Circumference above bust 88 cm
- Waist circumference 76 cm
- Hip circumference 102 cm
- Hips height 20cm
- Front length to waist 47 cm
- Back length to waist 43 cm
- Shoulder length 12cm
- Neck circumference 38 cm
- Center of the chest (the distance between the highest points of the chest) 22 cm
- Armhole depth 20.5 cm
- Dress length 100cm
IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Girth (OG) of more than 80 cm.
Where to begin?
Before you start building the dress pattern, decide on the silhouette. It is important for yourself to determine what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, semi-tight or loose. Based on this, add to the freedom of fitting the product.
We are building a dress of an adjacent silhouette and we take 1.5 cm (see) to increase the freedom of fitting to the half-girth of the chest.
Calculation of auxiliary values
Let's calculate the auxiliary values that we need when constructing a pattern:
Back Width (SHS). Calculation formula: 1/8 OG + 5.5 cm = 17.5 cm
Armhole Widths (SPR). Formula for calculation: 1 / 8OG -1.5 cm = 10.5
Chest Width (WG). Calculation formula: 1 / 4OG -4 cm = 20 cm
Armhole depth (GPR). We measure it or, to check the measurements, we calculate it using the formula GPr = 1 / 10OG + 10.5 = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not coincide with the measured value, take the average between them.
Step back from the top of the sheet 10-15 cm down and in the upper left corner put point A. Down from point A draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference, measuring +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.
Armhole line. From point A downwards, set aside the Depth of the armhole to measure + 0.5 cm (increase in the freedom of fitting from) - point G. Draw a horizontal line ГГ1.
From point G to the right, set aside the Width of the back +0 cm (for freedom of fitting) and Width of the armhole + 0.5 cm (for freedom of fitting), Width of the chest + 1 cm.In total, we made an increase of 0 + 0.5 + 1 = 1.5 cm - this is the increase that we laid above. From the points obtained, draw vertical lines up to the intersection with AB.
Waistline. From point A down, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw segment TT1.
Hip line. From point T downward, set aside 20 cm - the height of the hips according to the measurement - point L. Draw a segment LL1.
Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with an increase in half, from the point of division, draw a vertical line of the side down to the intersection with DC. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole into 4 equal parts (red crosses).
Back collar. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/6 of the circumference of the neck by measure + 0.5 cm) and 2 cm up (for all sizes). Draw a curved cutout line for the back neckline.
Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down.Connect points 2 (neckline of the back) and 1.5 (slope of the shoulder) with a straight line, set aside the length of the shoulder by measure + 1 cm = 12 + 1 = 13 cm In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.
Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole) draw a bisector of the angle 2-2.5 cm long and or by hand draw the armhole of the back, relying on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.
Raising the shelf. From point T1, set aside 47 cm upward (Length of the front to the waist according to the measurement) - point Ш was obtained. From point Ш draw a horizontal line to the left. Extend the right vertical line of the armhole upward (see fig. 7).
Front neckline. From point W to the left, set aside 6.8 cm (1/6 of the neck circumference by measure + 0.5 cm) and 7.8 cm down (1/6 of the neck circumference by measure +1.5 cm). Draw along the pattern (or by hand) the cut of the front neckline (Fig. 8).
Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.8 (neckline), set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short oblique line (fig. 9).
From point 1 down, draw a segment 1-Г2 to the armhole line (ГГ1) in such a way that Г1Г2 = 11 cm (1/2 measure Center of the chest) - the right side of the chest dart is built.
Chest dart. Divide the right side of the bust dart in half and from the point of division draw a horizontal segment 4 cm long (Half girth minus Half girth above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Through point 4, draw the left side of the bust dart with a length equal to the length of the right side of the bust dart (fig. 10).
Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top point of the left side of the chest dart to the top point of dividing the auxiliary line of the back armhole (Fig. 11).
Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (12 cm (measured shoulder length) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the bust dart) and 2 cm down at a right angle (for all sizes). Draw a line for the front shoulder (fig. 12) ...
From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dashed line to the lower dividing point of the auxiliary armhole line, divide it in half (Fig. 13). Draw a 2 cm long bisector from the lower right corner (armhole).
From the point of division of the auxiliary dotted line, set aside at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 13). Along the pattern or by hand, draw the armhole of the front along the control points: point 2 (shoulder), point 1, point 2 (bisector of the angle), to the side line.
Calculation of darts:
Darts are calculated as follows: 1/2 Chest circumference minus 1/2 Waist circumference = 48-38 = 10 cm We remove 1/3 of the obtained value into the side darts and 2/3 into the back and the shelf - a little more into the back (4 cm) and a little less into the shelf (3 cm).
Side darts: 10 cm / 3 = 3.3 cm (round off - 1.5 cm in the back and in the shelf) (Fig. 14).
IMPORTANT! To calculate the lack of volume in the thighs, apply the formula: (Hips minus Chest) / 4 = (102-96) / 4 = 1.5 cm (set aside 1.5 cm along the hips from the Side Line to the left and right and draw lines the sides of the back and front of the dress.
Back tuck dart: Divide the width of the waist of the back to the side seam in half and from the point of division, draw a vertical line to the line of the armhole and the line of the hips. Draw a dart as shown in fig. 15: divide the distance T-1.5 in half, put a cross and through it draw a vertical dotted line up and down. From the line of the armhole, lay down 3-4 cm, from the line of the hips up 2 cm.Construct a tucked dart of the back 4 cm wide.
Front dart. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waist line. From point G2, lay down 5-6 cm and draw a dart with a depth of 3 cm as shown in fig. 15.
ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a "kinky" back, the excess fabric can be tucked into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see Fig. 16 blue line). To build an additional front dart, set aside 3 cm to the right from the lower right corner of the armhole and draw a vertical dotted line down to the line of the hips. From the line of the armhole along the auxiliary vertical dotted line, lay down 7-8 cm, from the line of the hips upwards - 1.5 cm.Construct a dart 2 cm deep.
For additional fitting along the middle seam of the back, build a dart with a depth of 1-1.5 cm and connect the resulting point with points L and G with a smooth line.
Rice. 17. Basic pattern for back and front in finished form
Build or
I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover - I will teach you yourself to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the pen in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacies of numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WILL NOT LEAD YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch up with fear and make a girl who really, really wants to sew a dress- but I was very unfriendly in school years with geometry and drawing... Even I - who adore both of these school subjects - walked around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: "Well, how long will it take to draw such a drawing, and after all, you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in letters ...".
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (this is a piece from it you see from above.))))
But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No obscure formulas
- No messy calculations.
- And without the letter-and-digit cobweb.
How is it? Have I removed some of your concerns yet?
Relax now - we won't start drawing right now. For starters, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know each other, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So ... what is a base pattern?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast from your body. This is your personal print. Any item, sewn according to YOUR base pattern, will perfectly fit YOUR figure.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be stitched based on one single pattern... All-all models of dresses are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even in three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits your figure perfectly). Dress tailored to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual base pattern. See, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.
And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face oval.
All the other (any-lovable) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
This is how it works in the fashion world.
Once the fashion designer thought ...“And what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - the figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of opposite overlapping triangles (red outlines - the figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful.
What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a pattern basis.
And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just have a lot of imagination.
By the way - since we're already talking about a round yoke - on this site there is already one of my articles on creating a dress for a girl on a round yoke, a simple one and a dress on a round yoke with flounces.
And another fashion designer thought: “And what if we give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs on the arm. " And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do that too. If you UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And according to what laws does it exist.
That's why I do not want to give you instructions stupidly to create a base pattern (like "read a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place of its intersection with line X with the next point ..." - ugh!).
I want to wake up in you bitch... I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Have learned to see what a simple drawing in essence hides behind a photograph of any dress, even intricately tailored.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes, we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - we will find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and is drawn that way.
After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It’s as if you’ve already drawn the base patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a pair of trifles. Ha! Delov something!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as a thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us. "
So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - the base pattern. We will tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple drawing - like a lattice for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a pair:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.
And what these halves are for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. That is to say - clearly and clearly.
Yes, in Potnov's language the halves are called “shelves”. We will draw these very front and back shelves today. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: Tuck and ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce.
So, get to know - POSITION.
When drawing the base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and the size armhole that suits you - when the armhole does not pull and dig into the arm.
That is, the base pattern contains minimum size of armholes permissible... You can simulate the armhole of your choice, of any configuration. But your fancy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole on the basis of the pattern - these are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not step.
Your model armhole can be as large as you want - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
DARK BACK- shoulder dart + waist dart.
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the darts of the back - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don't see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don't have it either. Because for convenience and beauty - this dart is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra tissue trimmed in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is being sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn.
Also darts are optional if you are sewing from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.
Let's get to know ... HALF DRUTS.
Oh, you can write a whole poem about her.
I thought for a long time how to explain more clearly - what it is for and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought ... and came up with it.
The fact is that a woman has a breast.))) That is, in front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. A dart on the front shoulder gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in the pictures. How does this happen.
For example - we have a flat piece of fabric, and we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a dart on it. For example - this flat circle made of cardboard, with the help of a dart, will now become convex.
Here's how the brisket tuck creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the breast dart the tip of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in the store, which was somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress was directed with its edge by the tops of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut for your breast shape at the factory.
But that is not all,
what I want to say about the chest tuck.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this breast dart is located not on shoulder- a on the side just below the armpit... This is for beauty. The dart on the shoulder is more striking, and from the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.
Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest dart from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.
Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?)))
It's only the beginning…
We continue walking along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
BREAST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We will sew it with you. Do not even hesitate)
The chest line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate on it when drawing a base pattern, because:
- We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the back on the chest line.
- We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the front before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.
Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to find out that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly mark these letters and numbers).
WAISTLINE
We focus on this line when we draw waist darts - both on the details of the front and on the details of the back. The widest point of the dart is exactly at the waist line.
HIP LINE
Along this line, we draw an extension of the hem. We will need a classic expansion of the hem of 1.5 cm on the left and on the right so that during the walk the dress does not rub too much against the body, does not warp.
If you sew from stretching fabrics, then such an expansion of the hem will prevent one very unpleasant thing - when the hem of the stretch dress becomes sticky when walking, it slowly starts to crawl up the thighs, straightening to the waist - and then you have to constantly pull it down every 5-10 steps ...
Also, the expansion of the hem can be larger than the classic 1.5 cm in the event that the girth of your thighs is much wider than the girth of your chest. .. Then we will expand the hem in accordance with the size of the difference between these volumes (I will tell you more about it below when constructing a pattern).
So why is it easy and simple to draw a base pattern? You will understand now.
WHY DRAWING A BASE PATTERN IS EASY AND SIMPLE
I want to draw your attention to 2 wonderful points.
Wonderful moment # 1 - the entire pattern is created inside a rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)
Wonderful moment # 2 - the most laborious is drawing the upper part of the pattern - where the neck is, and the shoulder line, and darts, and armholes.
And to make it morally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that's it - the upper part is ready.
As you can see, if you divide a seemingly difficult job into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts itself does not seem difficult. As a result, you will not notice how everything has already been drawn.
It's simple- first we draw a large rectangle, then we divide its upper part into three zones. Draw 2-3 lines in each zone. And all that remains is to go down below and draw the waist darts and the line of the hips. Ha! Delov something!
Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real base pattern.
Well then, let's get started. And we'll draw it all in 20 minutes. Time the timer.
BEGIN TO DRAW A PATTERN BASIS - WE TAKE MEASURES.
WE TAKE MEASURES
Height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra - to the bottom of the hem of the dress)
Semi-girth of the chest - (chest girth divided by 2)
Chest center measure - (distance between the tops of the chest) in your regular bra.
Back width- (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades - from hand to hand)
Back length(from the cervical vertebra to the waist)
Shoulder length- (from the lateral point at the base of the neck - to the shoulder joint)
Semi-girth of the neck- (the girth of the neck is divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it
Half hip - (the girth of the hips was divided by 2)
Half waist - (waist circumference divided by 2)
How to remove all those girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck - we know.
And to take other measurements, I give you an approximate picture below:
STEP ONE- draw a rectangle.
Height of the rectangle - this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress
The width of the rectangle is half-girth of the chest + a few cm for a loose fit.
How much you need to add these same centimeters for a free fit, now we'll figure it out.
Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of tightness of a sheath dress:
- Tight fitting dress silhouette
- Adjacent silhouette
- Semi-fitting silhouette
- Straight silhouette
If you need tight-fitting silhouette - then choose the fabric that has elastic fibers, that is, it stretches a little (not like a stretch, but slightly) - and then the ADDITIVE ON FREEDOM OF FITTING MAY BE LOST AT ALL - that is, the width of the pattern will be equal to the half-girth of your chest.
If you sew a dress from an ordinary non-stretch fabric, then you will not be able to completely adhere it to the curves of your body - and the maximum we can do is cut out adjacent silhouette ... And then the ADDITION ON FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE - 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, the armhole area and the chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we will calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each of the zones - and that's it.
If you need a dress semi-adjacent silhouette (one that hides the "flaws" of the figure) - then the ADDITION ON FREEDOM OF FITTING will be 4-5 cm (1 cm will go to the back zone, 1.5 cm to the armhole zone, the rest automatically falls into the chest zone.
And if we need a basic pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then we add 6-7 cm.
STEP TWO -we zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: the back zone, the armhole zone, the chest zone.
Back width is a measure of the back width divided by 2
The width of the armhole is the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 2 cm
The width of the chest zone is what will remain.
ATTENTION (!!!) If at the very beginning you made an allowance for freedom of fit, do not forget to add a part of this allowance to each zone (as I described a little higher in the article).
STEP THREE - in the back area, draw 2 lines - the neckline + the shoulder line.
Neck line - lies on a rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised upward.
What you need to know:
neck width = 1/3 semi-obchv. neck + 0.5cm
the height of the edge of the neck above the rectangle = 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck + 0.8 cm
What do we have to do:
So we divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 and add 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the upper line to the left. We found the width of the neck and marked it with a dot.
Now this point needs to be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.
We all found the edge of the neckline - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done simply by hand.
Shoulder line
it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neckline and slightly extends beyond the border of the back zone.
What you need to know:
Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for dart.
The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for high 1.5 cm, for sloping 3.5 cm) - mark the level of inclination on the lateral line of the back zone (measure from top to bottom).
What do we have to do.
We figured out what type our shoulders are. Measured on the lateral line of the back zone the desired value (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)
A line was drawn - from the edge of the neck to the marked level of the slope.
And on this line we measure the shoulder length + 1.6 cm for a dart. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back zone.
Back dart:
What you need to know:
The dart is 4 cm from the edge of the neck
The depth of the dart is 6 cm (that is, it goes down by 6 cm)
The dart width is always 1.6 cm
The first side of the tuck is lowered perpendicularly, and the second is deflected to the side.
Both sides of the dart are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm
What do we have to do(see the picture) - we measured 4 cm from the edge of the neckline (put a bold point) and further measured 1, 6 cm for a dart (put a dot) - these are the edges of our dart.
Now they lowered the perpendicular 6 cm down, then went up to the other edge of the dart. Moreover, we also rose exactly 6 cm. Yes, we will rise a little above the shoulder line. But it is important for us that the sides of the dart are of the same length - after all, we will sew them together (close the dart) - and they must match in length. If they do not match in length, the shoulder line will turn out to be a broken line after closing the dart.
STEP FOUR- we find the line of the chest and in the area of the armholes draw the armhole of the back and the armhole of the front.
Back armhole line
What you need to know:
The armhole line goes down evenly to the chest line.
And the height of the armhole of the back is always = 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest + 7 cm
The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is exactly in the middle of the armhole zone (on the chest line).
Top 2/3 of your armhole height goes almost straight down
The lower 1/3 of your height + 2 cm - the armhole bends towards the midpoint of the armhole zone.
Draw the line of the chest
Find the height of the armhole. It is equal to = half-girth of the chest: 4 + 7 cm. The armhole of exactly this height will be optimal for your arm, it will not cut into the armpit, or pull the shoulder.
We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. Measured and put a point.
We have now found not only the lower edge of the armhole - we have now automatically found the level of the chest line. This very important line is found only in this way. Her level is always the size of the armhole, measured down from the shoulder.
And to draw the chest line exactly horizontally. It is necessary to measure with a centimeter the distance from this point to the upper edge of the square of our pattern. And then measure the resulting value on both sides of the pattern - slap the points - and connect them with a horizontal line.
Draw the line of the armhole of the back.
Now we will draw the line of the armhole of the back.
The lower extreme (axillary) point of the armhole is always in the middle of the armhole zone on the chest line. They measured the armhole zone with a centimeter - found the middle - slapped the point.
The line of armholes starts from the edge of the shoulder, goes down and begins to bend to the side only at the level of 1/3 of its height + 2 cm. We measure this distance from the chest line. That is, the height of the armhole: 3 + 2 cm = the distance from the chest line, where the armhole begins to bend towards the axillary point. But to be honest, I don't always remember about these additional 2 cm and always draw a bend by eye, by hand - I define approximately 1/3 and from it I start to round off.
Front armhole line
What you need to know:
The height of the front armhole is equal to the half-girth of the chest: 4 + 5 cm
The armhole has 2 bends:
The upper bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line on 1/10 chest measurements
Bottom bend - starts at 1/3 of the armhole height from the chest line
What do we have to do:
We find the level of the upper bend of the armhole - half-girth of the chest: 4 + 5 cm - slap the point. Now this point must be moved to the left by a distance equal to = half-girth of the chest: 10.
Now we find the level of bending of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. Measure this distance on the lateral line of the armhole zone - slap the point.
And we also have the same axillary point. We get only three points. Now, through these three points, draw a smooth line of the armhole.
STEP FIVE- WE DRAW THE LINE OF THE BREAST AREA (neck, shoulder and chest dart)
Neck line
What you need to know:
The width and neckline of the front is the same as the neckline of the back = half-girth of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm
The depth of the neck is equal to = half-girth of the neck: 3 + 2 cm
Neck edge height measured from the chest line and equal to = bust: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)
The diagonal depth of the neck is = 1/3 half-girth of the neck + 1 cm
What do we have to do:
We find neck width(half-girth of the neck: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - slap the point.
Now raise the edge of the neck- it must be above the bust line by a distance equal to (half-bust: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).
We measure this distance up from the chest line- and to this level we raise the edge of the neck. And do not be afraid if suddenly this point rises too high in your opinion above the edge of the main rectangle of the pattern. The larger your figure, the wider the horizontal plane of your shoulder, and the more you will have to raise this point of the upper edge of the neckline.
For example, with a chest girth of 80 cm, this point usually rises by about 4.5 cm (plus or minus 1 cm, depending on how sloping your shoulders are). And when the chest girth is 110 cm, then the point can rise above the main square of the pattern by as much as 7 cm. Don't let yours scare you - feel free to draw, and don't worry ... you are doing everything right.
Now that you have raised the level of the neck up outside the pattern, you need to draw weak intersection lines this new horizontal level and a line mentally extending up the side of the cutout(see in my drawing I drew these lines in a bright light green color). These lines are needed as guidelines - because it is their points of intersection that we will measure our next measurements - the vertical depth of the neckline (neckline) and the diagonal depth.
We find the depth of the neck (half-girth of the neck: 3 + 2 cm) - we measure it from the angle of intersection of imaginary light green lines downwards - we measured and slap the point.
Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline line, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline... It is measured with a centimeter tape from the intersection of the light green lines - diagonally to the left.
Front shoulder line
You don't need to know anything. Here, in general, everything is simple - we connect the edge of the neck of the front and the upper edge of the armhole of the front - the gray line in the figure.
Breast dart.
What you need to know:
The edge of the breast dart reaches the chest line.
The tip of the breast dart should match exactly with the top of the breast (this is where the measure of the center of the breast comes in handy).
The width of the dart is found empirically, which is described below.
What do we have to do:
We find on our pattern the top of the chest. To do this, measure on the chest line from the right edge of the pattern half bust center measure + 1cm... Only half, because we have only half of the front on the pattern.
We put a point - and from it we draw a perpendicular straight line straight up - to the shoulder line. Here we have just identified the location of the breast dart, so that its point is directed evenly to the top of our breast. The chest will fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress - without distortions.
Now we need to draw the second side of the dart - BUT for this we need to know its width.
There are no formulas here. The width of the dart is determined empirically. For this we need
1.) Know the measure of the length of your shoulder (we took this measure at the very beginning)
2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.
3.) Compare these values with each other.
4.) The difference in size will be the width of our dart. In flat-chested kids, this difference is zero, which means that the width of the dart is also zero. That is, it does not exist. Well, rightly so, little girls have no breasts - why would they need a dart.
5.) Find the width and measure to the left of the edge of the dart. We mark with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the edge of our dart. Ops! And the dart is almost ready.
6.) It remains only to make both sides of the dart the same length. We measure the first side of the dart. And we measure the same distance on the other side of the dart. So that they are the same and coincide with each other when we close this dart.
7.) The shoulder line turned out to be a little broken (raised after tuck). But this is how it should be. After closing the tuck, it will go down and be perfectly flat.
WE FINISHED WITH THE TOP OF THE PATTERN. URAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
It remains to separate the back shelf from the waist shelf. Then find the line of the waist and the line of the hips. On the waist line, draw a side bend and 2 waist darts (on the back and front). On the line of the hips, draw an extension of the hem to the sides.
Let's do it quickly and that's it - you can open a bar with drinks and celebrate this business.
Well, let's get started ...
STEP SIX - we divide the pattern into the back shelf and the front shelf - that is, into the right and left sides.
What you need to know:
Side seam line - divides the pattern into a back shelf and a front shelf.
The line of the side seam does not pass in the middle, but shifts towards the back (it is necessary to divide the width of the armhole zone into 3 identical parts by two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back), the side line will pass)
What do we have to do:
We measure the width of the armhole zone. We divide it into 3 equal segments - two points. And through the left point and draw a vertical line. This will be the side line of our shelves (back and front).
STEP SEVEN - draw the waist line and the hip line.
What you need to know.
The waistline is located below the cervical vertebra at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.
The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the back length measurement.
The waistline and hip line - has a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the half of the front (this deflection is needed for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest have).
What do we have to do.
We measure the level of the waistline - measure down from the top of the pattern back length measurement- draw the line.
We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half back measurement- draw the line.
On the right side of the pattern, mark the points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - we bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).
STEP EIGHT - draw the side bends of the front and back + waist darts of the front and back.
We calculate the width of the darts and side bends
What you need to know:
Front side bend width = Back side bend width = Back waist dart width = Front waist dart width. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and in the darts.
To find out the width of a dart or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the one that should be cut in the side bend or hide in the dart. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will be tucked into its own dart or into its side bend). Means…
Dart (or side bend) width = excess fabric: 4
Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus waist half girth.
A bit confused, but now I will show everything with a specific example….
What do we have to do.
1.) We know the width of the pattern (remember, it is equal to the half-girth of the chest + 6 cm)
2.) We know the half-girth of the waist (we took measurements at the very beginning)
3.) We subtract the half-girth of the waist from the width of the pattern and additionally subtract 2 cm.
4.) The resulting figure is the amount of excess fabric that will go into the side bend or darts.
5.) Width of one dart (or side bend) = amount of excess fabric: 4.
For example, the width of my pattern is 52 cm, and the semi-circumference of my waist is 36 cm.
The amount of excess fabric around the waist will be 52 - 36 - 2 = 14 cm.
It is this amount of fabric that should be partially cut off at the side bend of my pattern, partially hidden inside the darts of the front and back.
On the pattern there are 2 bends (at the side of the front and at the side of the back) and 2 darts (one at the front, one at the back).
This means that my surplus of 14 cm should be evenly distributed among all these four elements. That is, 14 cm: 4 = 3.5 cm.
That is, 3.5 cm will be the width of the dart of the back + 3.5 cm will be the width of the dart of the front + 3.5 cm will go into the bend of the side line of the back + 3.5 cm will go into the side bend of the front line.
Now it is clear how to find out the width of the darts and bends.
We can draw the side bends at once - we measure one size at a time (in my case, 3.5 cm) on both sides of the midline:
And in order to draw waist darts on the back and front, you still need find their correct location on the pattern.
We draw the waist dart of the back.
What you need to know:
The central axis of the waist dart of the back - runs in the middle of the back zone. That is, it is located from the left edge of the pattern at a distance equal to = back measurement: 4
The upper vertex of the waist dart of the back is located just on the chest line (where the axis intersects this line)
The lower top of the waist dart of the back - does not reach the hip line by 4 cm.
What do we have to do:
First, let's draw the centerline of the dart - that is, a straight line that will represent the center of the dart. The tops of the dart will be located on this centerline.
The center line of the waist dart of the back runs exactly in the middle of the back zone.
That is, you can simply measure the width of the backrest area and find its middle.
Or measure from the edge of the shelf to the right a value equal to = back measurement: 4.
Finding the tops (sharp tips) of the darts: Top apex lies on the bust line where the dart axis intersects. The lower one lies on the axis, at a distance of 4 cm from the hip line.
Now we draw a dart: on the waist line, on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart. And from these points we draw lines to the top top of the dart and to the bottom top of the dart.
Front waist dart.
What you need to know:
Front waist dart - Lies on the same axis as the chest dart. That is, the axis of the tuck is also located at a distance equal to = half center bust measurement + 1cm
The tops of the waistline are on the line of its axis: the upper one does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower vertex does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
What do we do:
We find the axis of the waist dart of the front - either we continue down the line of the dart of the chest, or we measure from the right edge of the pattern a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm.
We measure this distance along the line of the chest and along the line of the hips - we put the points, connect and get the axis of the dart.
On the axis we mark the tops of the waist dart of the front - the upper top does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower peak does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
On the waistline, on both sides of the axis, we measure half the width of the dart - and from these points we draw lines down and up to the tops of the dart.
STEP NINE - draw an extension in the hips and a smooth roundness of the bottom of the product.
What you need to know:
If the difference between the girth of your chest and the girth of your waist is small (2-3 cm), then the dress expands in the area of the hip line by 1.5 cm (this is a classic expansion of the hem).
If the circumference of the hips is much larger than the circumference of the waist - then the extension along the thigh line will be equal to half the difference between the HALF hips and HALF bust.
And if you want a slightly widened hem (well, so that it is not strictly along the hips, but dangles slightly), then also make an extension on the bottom line of the product another 1.5 cm.
Anyway, when trying on, you will see the optimal width of the hem and you yourself will sew the side seam under the hip line there yourself if you want to narrow the hem.
The bottom of the product also has a slight curvature (by 1.5 cm) to the edge of the front and back shelf.
What do we do:
We find the difference in the values of the HALF hips and HALF chest girths. For example. the half-girth of the chest is 42 cm, the half-girth of the hips is 45 cm (be careful not to compare the whole girths, but the half-girths). The difference in half-girths will be equal to = 45-43 = 3 cm.
We divide this difference in half = 3: 2 = 1.5 cm. And thus we find out how much we need to expand our hem.
On the line, we measure 1, 5 cm on both sides of the side line of the shelves (we put dots).
On the bottom line of the pattern, we measure in both directions by 1.5 cm (or 3 cm if we want a slightly extended hem)
We connect these points with a smooth line, drawing the side lines of the hem of the front and back. The side lines of the front and back hemlines are drawn (as you noticed) overlapping each other - crossing each other. Then, having made copies from the base pattern, we cut out the back shelf separately, the front shelf separately, that is, we divide these halves, leaving each of them with its own outline of the hem.
Now for the curved line of the bottom of the product - we draw dots 1.5 cm lower than the bottom corners of the pattern... We connect these points with smooth lines to the extreme side points of the hem.
Done, comrades-girls !!! We with you in a sober mind and memory have just made a pattern-base !!! And at the same time, they never even turned off the brain and nicknames-cadabras with letters-numbers.
Moreover - you did not just draw under my pointer - but you understood what is hidden behind each line. And this is a little thing - oh, how useful it will be for you when modeling. And we will moderate you - all kinds of things and with pleasure and also with full consciousness of what is being done and for what purpose.
Learn to think and turn on the brain, and you yourself can model what you like without waiting for my articles-lessons.
What other master classes are there in the same clear pictures and explanations.
If you dig into the sewing heading on this site you will find a lot of things useful for the mind and for sewing.
Namely…
As you can see - there is a lot of everything !! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))
And we will begin to sew on the TOP pattern. It is tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses
You ask: "Hey, why not dresses immediately?" I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle "Sewing tops and T-shirts - quickly and easily." So to be continued))) Let's go….
Successful sewing!
Olga Klishevskaya, specially for the site "Women's Conversations".
Copying of the article is allowed ONLY on a personal computer and only on the pages of a personal Internet diary WITH THE MANDATORY PRESERVATION OF ALL WORKING LINKS OF THE ARTICLE.
The dress base pattern is a tool with which you can model a dress of absolutely any style. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to build a basic pattern, make a sleeve model, and also provides an example of modeling based on the resulting drawings.
Measurements for dress
To create a pattern you will need:
- length of the product;
- back length to waist;
- shoulder length;
- semi-girth around the neck;
- half-girth above the chest (removed over the chest);
- half-girth on the chest;
- half-girth at the waist;
- half-girth on the thighs;
- the size of the height of the armhole.
Building a pattern for the basis of a dress
This is what the drawing itself looks like, to which this instruction is attached. Focus on it if required.
Pattern formulas
- To calculate the width of the back: 1/8 of the circumference of the chest + 5.5 cm (for all sizes).
- To calculate the width of the armhole: 1/8 of the circumference of the chest - 1.5 cm (for all sizes).
- To calculate the width of the chest: 1/4 of the circumference of the chest - 4 cm (for all sizes).
There is also a formula for calculating the depth of the armhole, but the data obtained through it is in most cases inaccurate. Therefore, if you want the dress to sit like a glove, then measure the armhole yourself, without using additional calculations.
Before you start building a dress, you need to understand what silhouette it will be: free, fitted or tight-fitting. Based on this, you need to decide on the increments for the freedom of fitting. Look at the table and take the data that suits you. However, it is worth remembering that for a very tight dress, you need to choose elastic fabrics that stretch a lot. It is impossible to obtain such a silhouette from non-stretching materials.
- Draw rectangle ABDC where height is the length of the garment and width is the half of the chest + the increase in fit. For example, the half-girth of the chest is 42 cm, then if you want to sew an outfit of a semi-adjacent silhouette, you need to take an increase from 1.5-2 cm: 42 + 2 = 44 cm. And so on.
- From point A, measure down the height of the armhole, not forgetting to add an increase in the freedom of fitting, mark the place with point G. From it, check the straight line until it touches the side BC and put G1.
- From point G to the right side, measure the width of the back, adding an increase in fit according to the table. From the resulting mark to the right, measure the width of the armhole. Draw perpendiculars to AB.
- Divide the armhole in half. From it, draw a straight line down to the very base. This is the side line.
- Divide each of the resulting two lines of the armhole into 4 equal segments, measuring crosses.
- From point A to the right, measure: 1/3 of the half-girth along the neck + 0.5 cm, and raise the point along a right angle by 2 cm.
- Point A and 2 are smoothly connected by a curved line, forming the neck of the back.
- On the line of the armhole of the back, where the crosses were outlined, measure down 1 cm from above if the shoulders are straight, or 2 cm if sloping. From point 2 (neckline) through mark 1 (2), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder line, taking into account an increase of 0.5 cm.
- Measure 2 cm from the bottom corner of the armhole at a right angle and mark point 2.
- Draw the armhole going through: the shoulder point, the second and third auxiliary marks, point 2 and the top of the side line.
- Now move on to the front of the dress. Draw a straight line from point Г1 upward: 1/2 half-girth along the chest (without increments) + 0.5 cm. Set point Ш. From the last point to the left, draw a line, while increasing the auxiliary line of the armhole so that the latter and the line from point Ш connect ...
- Measure from point W to the left: 1/3 of the half-girth along the neck + 0.5 cm (draw the same measurement from point W to the inside of the pattern, dividing the angle into equal parts). Measure 4 cm from the marked point. Measure 1 cm down from the mark 4 and connect to the edge of the neckline.
- From point W down, measure: 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1.5 cm.Connect the three marks with a curved smooth line, outlining the front neckline.
- Draw a straight line from point 1 (shoulder of the shelf) down to chest level, shifting the end point 1 cm to the right. This is the right side of the brisket dart.
- Divide the drawn line equally, and from the center, at a right angle, draw the difference between the half-grips along the chest above the chest.
- The missing side of the thoracic tuck is drawn from the base of the right, through the point of difference in the half-girth of the chest. Its length is identical to the right one.
- Connect the top of the left dart with a dotted line with the upper mark of the division of the armhole on the back. On the drawn line from the top of the dart, measure: shoulder length - 4 cm. Lower the mark 2 cm lower and connect it to the top of the left dart.
- From the point of the shoulder (2), lower the dotted line, connecting it with the lowest point of dividing the armhole of the shelf. Divide the dotted line in half, and measure 1 cm from the place of division to the right.
- In the lower corner of the armhole of the shelf, divide in half, set aside 2 cm.
- Using a neat curved line, draw the armhole of the shelf, through the points: 2, 1, the lowest point of division, 2, the middle of the side.
This completes the construction of the top of the dress. Next, start building the rest of the pattern.
- From point A, measure down the length of your back. Mark with a point T, and draw a horizontal line to the BC side, placing a mark T1. This is the waist line.
- Measure 20-22 cm down from point T and mark with point L (the indicator is relevant for all sizes). Draw a horizontal line to BC and set point L1. This is the hip line.
- Calculate the darts. Bust half - waist half. The resulting difference should be closed in darts. This is done according to the following scheme: 1/3 goes into the side darts, the rest is divided between the back and the front, while a little more than the shelf is always removed from the back.
- At the place where the side line intersects with the TT1 line, measure the borders of the darts to the right and left. Connect the marked points with the mark of the middle of the armhole with a straight line. From the waist line, round the hips at the side line, drawing it to the base. This creates a side seam line.
- Divide the back width in half and draw a straight line down to hip level. Measure darts at the waistline on each side. Measure 3-4 cm from the armhole line along the dart line, and step back 2 cm from the thigh line. Connect the marks that have arisen by drawing the dart of the back.
- Build the front of the dress. From the bottom of the bust dart, lead a straight line to the hip line. At waist level on each side, set aside the dart measurement for the front. From above along the drawn line, back off 5-6 cm.Connect the points, forming a dart.
The dress pattern base is completely ready! Now you can proceed to the most enjoyable, to cutting and sewing the product itself.
Sleeve pattern for dress
Some dress models require a sleeve. By building the sleeve pattern once, you can model different styles, including the popular flashlight sleeve.
To create a drawing you will need:
- back length;
- shoulder length;
- 1/2 neck circumference;
- 1/2 chest circumference;
- 1/2 circumference above the chest;
- 1/2 thigh circumference;
- the length of the sleeve;
- 1/2 wrist circumference.
- Draw a rectangle ABCD. Lines AB and DC are equal: 1/3 of a semicircle along the chest + 1 cm x 2. Lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the future sleeve.
- From point A, measure down 3/4 of the armhole height. Mark with a point P and draw a straight line until the touching side of the BC, marking with a point P1.
- Divide the AB line into four equal parts and draw segments from the identified points to the DC side. Name the points as shown in the diagram.
- Connect point O with a dotted line with P and P1. Put point O3 on the line of intersection О1Н.
- On the O1H segment, raise the O3 intersection point 1.5 cm higher and designate it as O5.
- Divide the segment PO3 in half and measure down 0.5 cm, marking with a point 0.5.
- Divide the O3O segment in half and measure up 2 cm, marking with a dot 2.
- Divide the segment OO4 in half and set aside 1.5 cm upwards, marking with a dot 1.5.
- Divide О4П1 in half and measure down 2 cm.
- Connect the marked marks with a curved smooth line, as shown in the image.
The sleeve pattern is ready. If you want to make it shorter, just move the bottom line to the required distance, as shown in the diagram.
To taper the sleeve, measure half the difference between the sleeve and wrist widths on both sides of the sleeve bottom. And then draw lines from the armhole to the resulting points as seen in the diagram.
Dress Pattern: Modeling
Now for the promised simulation example. Many people consider this process difficult and subject exclusively to professionals, but this is far from the case, and now you will see it.
Let's consider how the pattern of a dress with embossed seams "Princess" is built on the basis of the existing one.
- The darts must be shifted: 3 cm to the right on the back, and 2 cm to the left on the shelf.
- On both halves, retreat 6 cm along the armhole.
- Connect point 6 with the tops of the darts with a smooth line, and draw lines from the ends of the latter to the hem of the dress.
- From the point of the bust dart, cut a line to touch the curved line 6-2. Along this line, the pattern will need to be cut to cover the large bust dart.
- Cut out the pattern and then close off the large bust dart. The resulting small dart must be closed already when transferring the parts to the fabric.
You need to cut out the parts according to the following principle:
With the help of such a dress, you can visually correct the figure, especially if you choose two materials that are contrasting in color. For example, cut the sides from black fabric, and the center of the back and front from beige.
As you can see, modeling is not at all difficult, but, on the contrary, a rather entertaining creative process. Turn on your imagination at 100% and create unique, inimitable masterpieces!
