Programs for Android - Browsers. Antiviruses. Communications. Office
  • home
  • Internet
  • "The secrets of creating your own perfume from essential oils." How to make a perfume from essential oils with your own hands: the secrets of creating fragrances and the best recipes Creating a perfume

"The secrets of creating your own perfume from essential oils." How to make a perfume from essential oils with your own hands: the secrets of creating fragrances and the best recipes Creating a perfume

How do famous perfumers work, what gives them inspiration? Do they create their fragrances on a whim? Or, on the contrary, they spend a long time working on formulas, choosing fragrant ingredients through long trial and error? These questions cannot but worry us - those who are forever conquered by perfume masterpieces created by someone's genius. And perfumers themselves can best answer them. We offer you stories about ourselves and their work of people who are major figures in the modern perfumery industry: Jean-Claude Ellen, Françoise Donsch, François Demachy and Thierry Wasser.

Poets from perfumery

Maestro François Demachy at work

François Demachy sometimes dreamed of formulas for new fragrances. Then he gets up in the middle of the night and takes his cherished red notebook. In it, the master has been recording emerging ideas for 30 years, she trusts professional secrets. According to Demachy, he is terribly afraid of losing his diary, because it contains the past, which is of great importance in the creation of fragrances. François Demachy calls memory the core of the creative process. If you and I managed to look into the Red Book of Demachy, then there we would find a lot of interesting things: formulas for the smell of rain in the forest, ozone, wet cardboard, sweets, the perfumer's father's pharmacy and even stone.

François Demachy is the head of the perfumery department of Christian Dior, curator of the perfumery direction of the LVMH corporation (Givenchy, Guerlain, Dior, Kenzo, Fendi, etc.), collaborates with Acqua di Parma. In the past he worked for Chanel, collaborated with Ungaro and other brands. Author of Midnight Poison Dior, Escale a Pondichery Dior, Dahlia Noir Givenchy, Miss Dior Cherie Dior, Fan di Fendi Fendi, Kenzo Homme Sport Kenzo and dozens of other famous fragrances.

Jean-Claude Ellena in the making

I have my own secret notebook and Jean-Claude Ellena. The maestro writes in it everything that he finds interesting for the creative process. This perfume diary contains descriptions of the scents that inspired its owner (rare wine, freshly cut wood, gourmet food) and his reflections on what he read or heard. The master keeps his ideas not only on paper. On the table, he holds test tubes with elixirs-projects. Ellen's fragrances are born like this: first, he composes compositions of 5-10 notes, then pauses for up to 15 days in order to return to them again and critically evaluate the result. If the composition is not perfect, the process starts over. According to Monsieur Ellena, the Hermès house gives him both time to create and freedom of creativity.

Jean-Claude Ellena is the creative director of Hermès Parfums. At the moment, in addition to working at Hermès, he collaborates with The Different Company, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Frederick Malle. In the past, he worked for the Yves Saint Laurent perfumery division for a long time. Author of more than a hundred fragrances, including First Van Cleef & Arpel, Eau Parfumée Bvlgary, Declaration Cartier, In Love Again Yves Saint Laurent, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose Hermes.

Marketing plus inspiration

Madame Donsch - Givenchy's main nose

In contrast to the poetic Demachy and Ellen, Françoise Donsch and Thierry Wasser admit that their inspiration is quite limited by market demands. But striking a balance between the demands of the employer brand and their own intuition brings them great pleasure. Françoise Donsch, for example, is so imbued with the atmosphere of the Givenchy fashion house that she associates perfume ingredients with fabrics. Rose - with satin, citruses - with crepe de Chine, tuberose - with muslin, vetiver - with alpaca wool. It turns out that Madame Donsch cuts her fragrances like a fashion designer.

Françoise Donsch is the head olfactologist at Givenchy. Collaborated with brands Panama 1924, Pineider, Demeter Fragrance, Molinard. Author of fragrances Ange ou Demon Le Secret Eau de Toilette Givenchy, Pi Neo Givenchy, Molinard Homme I Molinard, Daytona 10 Panama 1924.

Thierry Wasser evaluates raw materials

Thierry Wasser, as a real marketer, embodies the desires of end consumers in fragrances. It does not even embody, but anticipates. And in order to understand these desires, the maestro sometimes overhears the opinions of customers. According to him, if he ask clients head-on what they expect from Guerlain, they will certainly be embarrassed. The pride for Wasser (the first, by the way, "not Guerlain" as the head of the great perfume brand) is that it was with him that a real Bulgarian rose returned to the fragrances of the Guerlain house. In general, Monsieur Wasser has great respect for the rich traditions of Guerlain. However, he creates in his own style - bright, juicy, a little hooligan.

Thierry Wasser is the chief perfumer at Guerlain, formerly head of the New York and Paris branches of Firmenich, perfumer at Givaudan. Collaborated and collaborates with a number of perfume brands. The author of many famous fragrances, for example: Guerlain La Petite Robe Noir Eau de Toilette, Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa Guerlain, L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme Issey Miyake, Poem Lancôme, Hot Couture Givenchy, Dior Addict Dior.

Olfactory addictions of perfumers

The creators of perfume compositions, like you and me, their consumers, have their favorites and outsiders among all the abundance of notes. François Demachy simply adores jasmine (he brings back memories of his childhood in Grasse). In addition, he is in love with rose, patchouli and amber. But Demachy dislikes the smells of coriander and cumin. But sometimes it overpowers itself, including these notes in the composition. Françoise Donsch's favorites are delicate notes of white flowers. Unlucky for spices, and especially pepper - Madame never includes it in formulas, considering it too aggressive. Well, real creativity is never objective, for us - connoisseurs of perfumery art - it is only better when its creators listen to themselves.

Perfumer's set. Perfume at home. Ingredients for creating a perfume. DIY tools for creating perfume. What essential oils are suitable for creating perfume. List of fragrances for the aspiring perfumer.

Part 2. What tools and ingredients do you need to create a scent blend.order author's perfume >>>

A set of ingredients for creating perfume.

1. A set of essential oils and absolutes. For therapeutic perfumes, you need to take only natural 100% Essential oils and it is better that it is a reliable supplier.( The seller guarantees the quality).

Your oil collection can be any amount. Perfume can contain 3 components and 7 and 30. It all depends on your desire, taste, experience and wallet capabilities.

The kit should include oils with varying degrees of volatility. If you have the option of purchasing Absolu oils (absolute). Wonderful! Is a plant scent concentrate intended for perfumery rather than aromatherapy.

The absolutes include: rose, violet, vanilla, jasmine, mimosa, iris, daffodil, cloves and other not very popular, but wonderful and expensive fragrances that will decorate your perfume mixture.

If your perfume is not of a therapeutic direction, then you can purchase aromas identical to natural, fragrances and fragrant (perfume substances - Molecules)

1a. Animalistic scents, usually are of animal origin. itamber, castoreum, musk, civet. They are used in evening trail oriental perfumes to increase the density and saturation of the aroma. These substances give the scent the properties of attraction (aphrodisiac) ... although this fact raises controversy and many questions among perfumers 🙄.

2. Fragrance fixers. It is not necessary to have them, but it is desirable if you want to get a luxury perfume! Essential oils can play the role of a fixative: galbanum, sandalwood, vetiver, incense, patchouli, cedar, violet, iris and etc.

2a... Gums such as benzoic gum (styrax) are excellent fixatives. The resin should be pre-grinded, filled with alcohol and allowed to brew for about 4 weeks. And only then create perfume on this resinoid.

2b. The role of the aroma fixer can be played by fragrances other.

2c. Fragrance fixer (pheromone complex) Ambralux

2d.Diethyl phthalate aroma fixer

3. Alcohol 96%. Alcohol should be ethyl 96% from natural derivatives (grain, sugar). Or you can use alcohol tinctures - Tinctures. Tinctures can be bought, or you can make yourself. >>>

Note: Some recommend using vodka, but vodka does not completely dissolve essential oils and your perfume may not work. Even 70% alcohol does not guarantee complete dissolution of oils. Therefore, try to use 96% ethyl alcohol to dissolve essential oils and absolutes. Many argue that 96% alcohol will ultimately give off an alcoholic odor. I assure you that 70% alcohol will behave the same way. In order to avoid this you need to play a little "chemist".

To check the strength of alcohol, you need to pour a small amount into a teaspoon and set it on fire. If, after burning out, liquid remains in the spoon, then it is water! This means that the alcohol was diluted.

3a. Dipropylene glycol (DPG) - Solvent of aromatic substances, essential oils, absolutes (especially). Alcohol-free perfumes are created on the basis of DPG. It can be used in a ratio of 20% to 80%, where 20% is an aromatic composition or perfume.
* Dipropylene glycol Is a colorless and odorless polyhydric alcohol. Oily consistency. Mixes well with water. Low volatile liquid (evaporates more slowly than alcohol). It is widely used in the perfumery industry. Can serve as a base for alcohol-free perfumes.

4. Vegetable oil. You will need it if you decide to make an oil-based perfume. It is the oil perfume that has the greatest healing effect. Unlike alcohol, oil is absorbed into the skin and then carried away by the lymph through the body. Oily perfume works for YOU, and not for the people around you. The oil must be refined and deodorized (odorless, otherwise it will affect the final result). Jojoba may be suitable, it is practically not subject to oxidation due to the content of polyunsaturated acids. Some use mineral oil. Keep in mind that such perfumes, when applied to the skin, are not absorbed and leave a disgusting oily film. For a healing scent, it's best to use a natural vegetable oil that will saturate the skin and blend in with your own body scent.

5. Wax. (Bee, Rice, Carnauba, Avocado) You will need it to create solid perfumes. It's that simple!

6. Distilled water (deionized). It is needed to dilute the alcohol base. Its concentration will vary depending on what you want to get: perfume, eau de toilette or eau de parfum. As a last resort, spring or melt water is suitable. It is needed in very small quantities. It will be much more interesting to use flower waters - They are already saturated with aroma. For example, rose water, rosemary, hyssop, or lavender.

Dosage. 100 ml of 96% alcohol to obtain eau de toilette, you only need 2-5 ml.

7. Talc or odorless powder. You will need these ingredients to create a powdery (free-flowing) perfume. And also for the process of accelerating precipitation in alcoholic spirits.

Perfume Crafting Toolkit:

It is very important to prepare thoroughly and have all the necessary tools on hand. Alcohol and Valuable Oil quickly evaporate, the bottles overturn, the aroma mixes, and there are only two hands ... The main thing is not to fuss!

1. Container for mixing. It is not recommended to use metal dishes, as iron enters into an acidic reaction with perfume ingredients, changing their smell. It can be a glass flask with a stopper or a porcelain bottle from which it is convenient to pour liquid. An exception may be a stainless steel container.

2. Container for storing the mixture with a tight lid. This can be a bottle or a small blue or brown glass bottle. Natural essential oil is affected by the environment. If air enters the mixture, an oxidation reaction can occur. For the same purpose, the mixture should be poured as close to the lid as possible, the smaller the air gap, the better the perfume will be. Sometimes, clear glass vials are wrapped in foil. Well!? This is also a way out.

3. Blotters. Strips of paper 10 cm long and 1 cm wide. Cut enough of them. You will need them in the first step. Any heavy multi-layer paper will work. Blotters will also be needed at the last stage, when you have to test the perfume during the ripening period of the fragrance.

4. Holder for bloters you can do it yourself from clothespins and a small rod (for example, a pencil).

5. Syringe, glass rod or pipette, and better both, and more. (For each scent, it is better to have a separate pipette so as not to rinse it with alcohol again). These tools are very handy for precise dosage. Essential oils vary in consistency. Some are more fluid, like lemon or citronella, while myrrh, sandalwood, guaiac or vetiver are thick, resinous in nature, especially if stored for a long time. You, literally, will have to "pick out" them with a stick from the bottle.

6. Measuring spoon and measuring cup you will find it useful for dosing liquids: alcohol, oil, water and cosmetic milk.

7. Gauze or cotton pads, for filtering the finished composition, Activated carbon(for alcohol)

8. Funnel or syringe (10 ml) for filling into bottles.

9. Vials for perfumes with a tight lid or a spray bottle, an applicator for alcohol perfumes, rollers (bottles with a ball) for oil, jars (tubes) for solid and, accordingly, for loose ones, you will also need special containers that are convenient for use.

10. Notebook and pencil for fixing the perfume formula, building a pyramid and writing on test papers (blotters).

11. Vial stand, in which you will create the Notes. I can offer a very simple tripod option. Take a plastic or cardboard box that will be stable on the table and punch a few holes in it. It is good if they fit in a row of THREE. Place the numbers (1, 2, 3) near each hole with a felt-tip pen. Then you will not confuse the top, middle and end notes. It is important that the box has a lid that protects the bottles from light rays. This simple design will make your creative process a lot easier. The vials are so unstable!

12. Box for storing the collection of essential oils. The box can be ordinary, the main thing is that it easily contains the desired aroma. And for this, stick stickers with the name of the oil on the lid of the oil bottle. Then you do not have to go through the bottles for a long time in search of what you need. Stickers can be multi-colored. You can sort the oil according to the direction of the aroma, belonging to the family, the degree of volatility. You can keep each note in a separate box.

Note: All tools must be clean and free of foreign odors.

A note for a beginner perfumer.

Before rushing in search of exotic and expensive fragrances, a novice perfumer should practice using essential oils that do not exceed the cost of the permissible amount and are readily available in an online store. Please note that the cost may vary from 100 rubles and more. Dear ones and very precious: jasmine, neroli, vanilla, rose and iris will surely brighten up your mixture. But it's better not to rush.

Many fragrances are used by perfumers more often than others. Their combination gives a very positive result. They are well established in the field of perfumery and aromatherapy. Better to start with them. This does not mean at all that these oils are worse than expensive and rare ones (this is just my experience). This is a list of oils that many love.

A set of essential oils for a beginner perfumer:

Fast volatile aromas to create a top note: lime, lemon, bergamot, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, peppermint or japanese.

Average volatility for the heart of the composition: lavender, ylang ylang, clary sage, cardamom, palmarosa, rosemary.

Low Volatility - Base Note: Atlas cedar, patchouli, vetiver, myrrh, bark cinnamon, copai balsam, guaiac wood.

Now you can create! ...

NextPart 3

Make perfume Probably everyone wanted their own dream with their own hands, because the magical, sensual and alluring world of aromas cannot but attract a person. Sweet notes of vanilla, passionate scent of roses, tart ether of patchouli - everyone has their own preferences, adherence to certain smells has been inherent in the human essence since ancient times. Even ancient people chose a mate for themselves, guided by a specific amber emanating from the opposite sex. At the level of instincts, they read information about this person, learned everything about him, as they say, without words. It was at that time that the idea arose to use various fragrant gifts of nature to aromatize your own body. And in our time, the perfumery industry is developed unusually widely, and in stores the assortment of perfumes can amaze with the number of fragrances and compositions of them.

But, most likely, many were faced with the usual situation when, visiting a perfume store, we cannot decide whether to choose exactly that shade, precisely those notes that should play in favor of a difficultly chosen image. In addition, it is quite difficult to find out in a store how exactly this or that perfume brand will play in interaction with the customer's own scent, and how it will be felt, for example, in an hour.

Why, then, guided by the experience of our ancestors, not create for yourself a fragrance that ideally reflects the individual inner world and your own preferences.

What is needed to prepare a home perfume?

In order to make a perfume with your own hands, you should learn a little about the material. The basis of any perfume will be essential oils, which, in various combinations, will create your unique aroma.

So spend one day memorizing the aromas of natural essential oils. Ordinary photographic paper, which should be cut into thin strips, can help you with this. Label each strip with the oil you are applying. Then apply one drop to the strip and give yourself a mini exam. With your eyes closed, inhale the scent of the oil, and then read the title. Bring your knowledge to automatism, you should only by one smell, without opening your eyes, guess what kind of oil you are bringing right now.

After that, prepare the necessary inventory:

  • cut clean strips of photographic paper;
  • one glass mixing bowl;
  • a set of essential oils;
  • glass pipette;
  • pure ethyl alcohol as a base for liquid perfume;
  • odorless jojoba oil as a base for oily perfumes;
  • beeswax as a base for dry perfume;
  • glass bottles for ready-made perfumes.

Perfume making process

Any perfume consists of three phases in action. Each phase is composed of aromas, depending on the persistence of essential oils:

  • The first phase is the initial note. It is these smells that we hear in the first 15-20 minutes after application to the body. Typically, these are citrus aromas, mimosa, basil, mint, anise, rosewood, lavender, lavandin and many others.
  • The second phase is the main note. The heart of the perfume is revealed after half an hour. Floral aromas, essential oils, musk, fennel, pine, cinnamon, tobacco, thyme, nutmeg, cloves and others are used to create the main note.
  • The third phase is the base note. "Aftertaste" of the aroma. They leave a light, slightly noticeable aroma, which is also called a sillage. This includes the essential oils of myrrh, frankincense, most woody scents such as frankincense, patchouli, vetiver and tree moss.

Some aromas can be used to create other phases, the main thing is to preserve a single composition, the general character of the product.

How to make a home perfume by creating your own scent? Simple enough. First of all, it is always necessary to compose the composition of the “heart of the spirits”. Apply a drop of essential oils from this group to the signed strips of photographic paper. After that, bring various combinations of these scents to your nose, choose exactly the combination that suits you.

Then add the base note one by one. Do not rush to combine several fragrances at once, as you will not be able to grasp the required combination, and you may get confused which combination you might like.

Lastly, add the top note oils in the same way. After you prepare the desired composition, apply it to a cotton cloth and leave for 1-2 hours. If after this time you like the scent, then you have made the right choice.

Do not immediately chase complex compositions. Make a simple perfume for yourself for the first time, where two or three oils will be present in each note.

The proportion of oils used should be as follows - (1/2/3), depending on which smell should play in the first, second or third phase. But this rule is not strict, everyone determines for himself the intensity of one or another ingredient, depending on his own preferences.

After that, in a glass container, use a pipette to mix the oils of your choice in the proposed or your own proportion. Now you can start, directly, to make a perfume.

Decide what kind of it you would like to make. If the perfume is alcohol-based, then the concentration of the oil composition in alcohol can be 20-30%. If it is an oily perfume, then there are 10% essential oils in the base oil, and dry perfumes can be prepared on the basis of beeswax in a 50/50 ratio. Pour the prepared perfume into a sterile glass bottle. Remember that after mixing alcoholic spirits should “mature” for at least three weeks in a dark dry place, sometimes stir gently, but do not shake. For oily perfumes, the ripening period is much shorter - no more than a week, and dry perfumes can be used immediately after preparation.

Thus, you can prepare yourself the necessary composition for each occasion. In addition, a perfume made up individually for a certain person can be a wonderful gift for him.

How can a perfume made from essential oils affect a person?

Each fragrance carries a symbolism, and can play a certain role in a person's life, change his character or give free rein to feelings previously hidden deep in the subconscious. So, in the table that follows, we propose to deal with the main flavors!

Scent name Characteristic
Orange An aroma that gives impudence, fun. Increases optimism and self-confidence, creating an aura of trust and serenity around the wearer.
Bergamot Able to neutralize the aggressive and spiteful energy of the crowd, to protect your aura from external stimuli. It can stimulate a person to creative exploits, revealing the artistic essence of a person and suppressing isolation.
Basil The smell of basil is able to relieve a person of complexes, increasing his self-esteem.
Vanilla Pushes to create a family, creating an aura of trust and warmth. Harmonizes already established relationships, helping to hear what the interlocutor is talking about, to take his place.
Verbena Verbena-based perfume is essential for everyone who wants to win the lottery, increasing a person's luck. It will also help in solving complex issues. In ancient times, the aromas of sensual courtesans appeared, protecting their femininity and erotic appeal.
Heather The scent of the goddess of love Aphrodite. Strengthens the flow of erotic sensuality, sweeping away infantilism and impotence from the path.
Carnation Protects the wearer from excessive emotionality. It can also be a powerful defense against energy vampirism and surrounding anger.
Geranium It will help to cope with the consequences of negative situations or a small loss. She is also able to reveal the sensuality of a woman, giving her erotic relationship a touch of sentimentality and daydreaming.
Grapefruit Discovers talents inherent in nature, helping to achieve success in work.
Jasmine Oil of a feminine, wise and refined beginning. It liberates, reveals a bashful nature, eliminating all complexes.
Ylang-ylang The aroma of erotic games, which allows you to understand your partner at a glance, enhances intuition, increases the woman's sensuality and the man's potency.
Ginger Will add decisiveness and firmness to character. May help a weakened body fight disease.
Cinnamon Will add comfort and warmth to your aura. People who have a hint of cinnamon in their aroma will always be attracted by people in search of advice and consolation.
Lavender Lavender meditation motives will help you to completely relax and become aware of yourself.
Lemon A traveller's scent that helps you feel comfortable and at ease in any environment.
Mandarin It helps to find calmness and peace in the soul, restoring the aura damaged by someone else's anger. Gives a little naivety and childlike spontaneity to the wearer.
Muscat It will help to strengthen tolerance in family life, achievement of career goals. It is also often used to develop intuition in adolescents, helping them cope with transitional problems.
Mint Strengthens mutual understanding between people, removes the expectation of trouble, the feeling of tension in relationships.
Patchouli Strengthens intuition, helps to feel a good start. Will help to cope with any situation.
the Rose Transforms the energy of anger and sadness into an objective assessment of the resulting situation. The scent of shy and young natures, giving the character lightness, freshness and sophistication.
Pine A healer among oils, allowing you to restore and heal strength after a severe emotional blow.
Tea tree Protects from the aggressive effects of the surrounding world, creating a protective shell around a person.
Eucalyptus Restores strength after illness or an evil look, is able to give longevity to the wearer.

DIY perfume recipes

We suggest using ready-made recipes for already proven combinations for the first time. Do not worry about the fact that the aroma will not be individual, on each person such a composition will play in its own way, moreover, you will not be able to recreate the recipe up to a milligram and use the same brands of oils that were in the original. In addition, it is possible to replace one or two ingredients with more favorite ones.

Fresh summer perfume

Required Ingredients:

  • 20 ml ethyl alcohol;
  • 5 drops of lemon oil;
  • 3 drops of lemon balm oil;
  • 2 drops of neroli oil;
  • 2 drops of bergamot oil.

Clove perfume

Required Ingredients:

  • 20 ml. ethyl alcohol;
  • 4 drops of clove oil;
  • 3 drops of violet oil;
  • 2 drops of rose oil;
  • 2 drops of bergamot oil;
  • 2 drops of lavender oil.

And here is a slightly more complex perfume recipe. But bright tropical motives in its composition will not allow you to be disappointed in the effort spent!

Required Ingredients:

  • 50 ml of ethyl alcohol;
  • 2 cinnamon sticks;
  • 1 tbsp carnation stars;
  • 3 tbsp orange peel;
  • 2 tbsp rum;
  • 4 bay leaves.

Mix all ingredients and place in a dark place. Shake the contents lightly daily. After a week, strain and add:

  • 30 drops of orange oil;
  • 4 drops of lavender oil;
  • 3 drops of neroli oil.

Then let the scent mature in a dark place for three weeks.

Making perfume is magic!

Enjoy this process as you create your dream scent. Only in this way can you become like a fairytale sorceress who creates a magical potion, adding a drop of temptation, passion and love to it. Modern sorceresses perform miracles armed with glass bottles and aromatic oils. But enchantment in all ages remains a charm, and giving others pleasure from your enchanting aura, you yourself reveal your femininity and sexuality.

It would seem, why order a fragrance and use the services of a perfumer, if there are hundreds and thousands of different perfumes on store shelves - come in and choose any one. And, nevertheless, the number of connoisseurs of this service in our atelier is becoming more and more every year. What drives them? Of course, love 🙂

Love for original things that you will not find in the first store you come across.

Love for art and a burning desire to possess its best works.

Love for people and true admiration for their talents and handicrafts.


And also, love for deep multifaceted aromas, which simply cannot be obtained by artificial synthetic means in a chemical laboratory. Also, the development of individual perfumes is ordered in those cases when they want to adjust their relationship with the world and themselves.

After all, natural fragrances are the best sculptors of human feelings. They subtly regulate our emotions, thereby changing our reactions to what is happening and the quality of life in general.

Do you want to create a fragrance that will fill you with calmness and serenity? Or, on the contrary, will it give you vigor and strength? Or maybe you want a perfume that will inspire you to new feats every day?

Upon your order, it will reproduce the scent that you need. And no one else in the world will have another like this. As there is no other person in the world just like you.

In our atelier, you can create your own individual perfume, both in person and remotely. We have tried to describe how to implement our plans for you below:

How your personal scent will be made

The development of a unique scent to order takes place in several stages, and involves the joint creativity of the customer and the perfumer. The process will be easy, enjoyable and inspiring. You will remember the events dear to your heart, share your feelings and desires.

Your individual perfume is born from a personal story, and the master of perfumery will take care of how to express it and present it in your personal scent. Just keep this in mind when communicating with a perfumer, and then the result will exceed all your expectations. Now let's go through all the stages in more detail.

Personal presence in the atelier when creating individual perfumes

Acquaintance

We agree to appoint a convenient date and time of the meeting, you come to visit us in the studio, where we have a leisurely conversation, drink tea, taste the collection of aromas and define yours. Next, we draw a general concept and image of the future perfume.



Thus, together with the perfumer, you will step by step clarify your own desires and, at the same time, come to an understanding of which notes must be present in your perfume, and which should not be at all.

It is important to remember that there are no fragrances for all occasions, so be prepared to prioritize at least the minimum. What scent do you want: invigorating or soothing, daytime or evening, intense or subtle? You need to think about this in advance.

This concludes the preliminary work, and we move on to the next step.

Developing a formula for your future composition and creating test samples

For several weeks, our perfumer will work on your order, creating a personal perfume that best suits your request. As a result, you will receive 5 test scents, from which you will need to choose the one that best matches your feelings and desires. But you will already do this in the next step.

Fitting

Since complex scents reveal their bouquet gradually over several hours, their full potential can only be appreciated by “living” with them for some time.

We recommend that you spend at least one day trying on each perfume composition. Thus, you will have the opportunity to observe and feel all the stages of the scent's development, and to understand how well it “unfolds” on your skin. After all, a natural perfume sounds a little different than a synthetic one.

After carefully trying on all the scents, you choose the one that you like the most. If it suits you perfectly, great! If, in general, you like the scent, but have additional wishes (add intensity, remove excess sweetness, etc.), be sure to tell our perfumer about them and the formula will be finalized.



Making a personal perfume based on your chosen test sample

Now that you have decided on your preference, the perfumer will create an individual perfume based on your choice: solid, oily or alcohol-based. And you can get them after the composition is fully "ripe". Period of "maturation of aroma" - 1 month.

In exceptional cases, the order can be picked up earlier. For example, if you ordered the creation of perfume as a gift and you need it by a certain date. Then the perfume you donated will ripen with its owner, which you should warn him about.

Remote work to create an individual scent

We will get to know you and talk to you via Skype, phone or other remote communication carrier convenient for you. In the process of communication, we will try to determine what you like and what your future scent should be.

After that, you will be asked to write an essay about your future scent (a small questionnaire that you fill out, thoughtfully answering questions, at the end describe the image of your scent, how you imagine it, what feelings you should evoke, what tasks you will perform, etc. )

Further, all stages occur identically to those described above, as in a personal meeting. Test samples are developed according to your request and preferences. After that, they are sent to you by mail or by courier for "fitting". When you are ready and determine the best version of the test sample, let us know, this formula will be taken as the basis for future composition.

We hand the finished perfume to you personally in our atelier or send it by mail or by courier. Choose whichever is more convenient.



How long does it take to develop an exclusive personal perfume

The first stage of acquaintance, preparation and development of tests takes about 2-3 weeks on average. Further, it takes 1 to 2 weeks to “try on” the fragrance. And the very process of "maturation" of the perfume lasts up to 1 month.

So, in total, it takes about 1.5-2 months to develop an individual scent.

Sometimes, when you really need it urgently, we can work with you day after day, and you immediately take the finished composition with you, and it “ripens” with you, or the person to whom the gift is intended (for example, if you are passing through Moscow and you only have one day, you can agree to meet with our perfumer in advance, or you want to congratulate a loved one, but for some reason, he does not have the opportunity to visit our atelier, you, knowing his preferences, can participate in the process of creating a fragrance ).

Sometimes the process can take longer. Someone needs more time to get to know the fragrances, while someone wants to add some rare unusual ingredient to their perfume, which requires additional time to find and deliver. But believe me, the result is worth it.



You get a ready-made author's fragrance in a beautiful wooden box with a personalized inscription on the bottle and a certificate of authenticity for the fragrance. The certificate describes for whom the perfume was created, when and by whom it was created, the scent pyramid and the name.

All perfume formulas are carefully stored in our atelier, and if desired, the customer can make a new order of his fragrance at any time.

Our collection contains exclusive bottles that you can order for a fee.







Traditionally, perfumes have been a mixture of phyto essences extracted from spices, herbs, flowers, leaves and wood, to which fixatives (substances that increase the duration of the action of odors) have been added.


To create a perfume with our own hands, we need essential oils and a carrier base, in our case it is almond oil (or jojoba oil), a mixing bottle, photo paper cut into strips as blotters.



From essential oils, you can get a few for each note to begin with.
For example, the top note mainly includes citrus fruits - bergamot, grapefruit, orange, petitgrain, lemon.
Flowers can be added to the heart note: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang (as a more economical option: geranium, carnation). Spices: cinnamon, coriander, nutmeg. Herbs: thyme, clary sage.
Base notes include wood oils, resins, plant roots.
Suitable for us are vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla.


The main secret of the person who creates fragrances is not a keen sense of smell, but a creative emotional perception of smells.
As an artist owns paints, a perfumer must know the material with which he works. And therefore, before starting to compose a perfume composition, it is necessary to develop your olfactory memory.
This can take some time, from one day to several weeks, depending on how long it takes you to unmistakably recognize any of your essential oils.
After you have met, creatively characterized the fragrances and recorded them in your memory, you can start thinking about a perfume composition.



The structure of spirits, as mentioned above, consists of three parts: the initial notes, which unfold first, the heart notes and the so-called "trail" or base notes. They depend on the time of evaporation of the essential oils and the duration of the fragrance on the skin.
First, the heart of the future fragrance is created, in which the original vision of the perfumer is manifested, then a base is applied to the heart, emphasizing the main direction of the perfume, and lastly the top notes are added.


I will give an example of how, in principle, a natural perfumer works. This will help you in the future to independently create any compositions, just adding your own personality.


To begin with, we choose the direction of future spirits.
Let's say it will be floral oriental.
Take photo paper cut into 1 cm strips.
Apply a drop of essential oils to the edge of the strip from each note.



Combining them in a fan, with clean edges down, we bring them to the nose.
Also, for a more distinct perception of the mixing of aromas, you can use a large cognac glass.



First, listen to the heart note, let it be: cinnamon, jasmine, rose, carnation.
We also try combinations: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, clary sage.
Etc.


For example, let's stop at a combination: jasmine, rose, cinnamon, sage, ylang-ylang.
We do the same with the base notes, choosing the best combination among the suitable essential oils.
For a fruity-citrusy note, choose orange, grapefruit and bergamot for the top.
After that, you need to listen to the selected oils in the form of chords.
To do this, take one leading essential oil from each note on the blotters and listen together. For example, rose-vetiver-grapefruit, then jasmine-patchouli-bergamot.
Choosing a good chord, which should be emphasized in the form of a quantitative advantage in the mixture.



After all the trials, comparisons and searches, the next step in creating a perfume will be drawing up a formula.
The proportions are necessary for maintaining concentration, harmonious sound and possible correction of errors.
So, we take into account that the concentration of the perfume composition in the carrier substance should be 20-25%.
Then, for example, for 15 ml of perfume, we need 3 ml of essential oils, this is about 50-60 drops.


Of these, 50-60% are top notes, 25-30% are the heart of the fragrance and 15-20% are bottom notes.


Let's say our perfume formula looks like this:


Top:
grapefruit - 15 c.
orange - 8 k.
bergamot - 5 k.


Heart:
jasmine - 7 k.
rose - 4 K.
cinnamon - 3 c.
sage - 2 k.
nutmeg - 1 c.
coriander - 1 c.
ylang-ylang - 0.5 k.


Base:
sandalwood - 5 c.
vetiver - 4 k.
patchouli - 2 k.
vanilla - 1 c.


After compiling, we proceed to mixing the oils, but even here you should not rush and immediately add everything as written on paper.
Essential oils should be added drop by drop, each time listening to the mixture for the scent.



All changes and additions are made to the formula.


Do not forget that first a heart is created, we put a base on it and at the end we finish with the top of the whole composition.



After drawing up, dilute the composition with the required amount of oil.
Leave for 3-4 days in a cool dark place to brew.
Alcoholic perfumes mature longer - from 3 weeks to one and a half months.


We pour it into a convenient bottle and we are proud of ourselves as a novice perfumer.


This master class was prepared by Anna Bardina.
Anna is a real artist, she makes various jewelry - bijouterie, paints ceramics and creates new fragrances. You can familiarize yourself with her works, and purchase, on the page in the City of Masters



Top related articles