Crafted in iridescent taffeta, this bold, eye-catching dress is perfect for any special occasion. The trump cards of this model are undeniable! Firstly, this is the fabric: iridescent taffeta of a rich color sapphire blue - the name itself is mesmerizing, isn't it? Secondly, a flying sun skirt that creates an incredibly feminine silhouette. And the most important trump card is the drapery along the bodice, which gives additional grace to the silhouette and emphasizes the thin waist of its owner.
The dress pattern is modeled according to which you can build yourself according to your own measurements or
Modeling a dress pattern with drapery
Record the back and front halves of the dress separately on tracing paper and place them on the same line along the waist line. Mark on the front half of the pattern. Draw a horizontal line through point C. G. Along the shoulder of the back, set aside 4 cm and draw a line for the cutout of the back. Set aside the length of the shoulder 5 cm, draw a new line of the armhole of the back. Divide the armhole line of the back in half and draw a relief line through the tucked dart.
On the front bodice, draw a horizontal line just below the top of the tucked dart (on the back, draw a horizontal line at the same level); draw the second horizontal line along the waistline, the third - at a distance of 15 cm below the waistline.
Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with drapery
Cut the pattern along the lines of the simulations. Glue the middle and lower details of the bodice of the back and front along the lines of the waist darts and round along the upper and lower sides.
Rice. 2. Modeling the details of the bodice and skirt
Skirt-sun pattern with gather
To construct a skirt pattern, measure the distances AB and CD (lower sections of the front and back bodice details).
The upper cut of the skirt in the model is gathered, therefore it is necessary to lay an increase in assembly: 1.5 length of the bodice along the lower edge.
Build the first radius of the sun skirt with radius R = 2 (AB + CD) x1.5 / 6.28. The length of the skirt is about 50 cm. Build the second radius R2 = R1 + 50 cm (the length of the skirt as measured).
You need to cut out 2 details of the skirt. Since there is a hidden zipper on the back of the dress, the back of the skirt must be cut along the dotted line as shown in fig. 3. Do not cut the front panel of the skirt (!)
How to cut a dress
To sew a dress you will need: about 3.5 m of blue taffeta, 0.5 m of matching lining, 60 cm concealed zipper, matching threads. Details of the dress are shown in Fig. 3.
Rice. 3. Dress pattern with drapery - cut details
Additionally, it is necessary to cut out along an oblique thread at an angle of 45 °:
- 1 piece for draping the bodice shelf 2xAB + 10 cm wide and about 70 cm long;
- 2 pieces for draping the bodice back, CD + 10 cm wide and about 70 cm long.
Necklines and armholes of the dress
Cut out the details of the upper part of the bodice from the lining fabric.
Make allowances for seams 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the skirt - 2 cm.
How to sew a draped dress
IMPORTANT! In the process of sewing the dress, overcast the seam allowances.
Sew the details of the top of the bodice of the front and back along the raised seams, press the allowances to the center of the front / back. Sew the details of the middle part of the front / back of the dress along the waistline (marks 3-3 and 6-6).
On the drapery, sew 2 auxiliary stitches on each side along the vertical sides with a 4mm stitch length.
Gather each piece on the sides. Place the drapery over the corresponding front / back, pull lightly and baste along the side seams and center seam of the back. Straighten the folds gently as you basting. Baste the details of the drapery along the red dotted lines (see Fig. 3) and stitch on the sewing machine.
Sew the drapery details to the main details by running locking stitches along the side seams of the dress and the center of the back.
Sew the details of the skirt along the side seams, overcast the allowances.
Sew 2 auxiliary stitches along the upper hem of the skirt with a stitch length of 4 mm. Gather the top edge of the skirt to the length of the bottom edge of the bodice. Baste the skirt to the bodice, sew. Press the hem over the hem.
Sew the bottom of the dress to the top of the bodice, press the allowances up. On the back of the dress
Sew the details of the bodice lining along the raised and side seams. Finish the necklines and armholes with lining using technology.
Fold the lining along the bottom and
Fold over the allowance at the bottom of the sun skirt and topstitch. To make the hem of the skirt more voluminous and better keep its shape, we recommend it for an allowance.
Your wonderful dress is ready. Shine with friends at the main party and be happy!
Every girl wants to have a beautiful and elegant dress in her wardrobe for a wide variety of occasions. A dress with additional elements is perfect for absolutely any shape. The use of various types of drapery on the surface of the dress can update and fix any of the simplest models of the dress. We bring to the attention of readers a description of such a model as a dress with draperies, a step-by-step photo selection and MK you will find below.
An interesting and formative element of dress style, drapery can be done in just two main ways. In the first method of sewing a draped dress, as in the photo, the method of a free flowing canvas is used on the surface of a garment. The second way to decorate the drapery of the dress surface is to sew loose loose fabric elements to the surface of the main dress. The number and size of fabric folds can be varied depending on your taste preferences and desires.
Thanks to the unusual and interesting variation of the drapery at the neckline or on the sides of the dress, you can create a wide variety of outfit models for your wardrobe.
We sew a dress with draperies: photo and MK with a variety of design options
Thanks to the wide variety of options for designing patterns for dresses with draperies, you can replenish your wardrobe with new models of outfits. Skillful use of flowing fabric will allow you to hide or, on the contrary, highlight the flaws and dignity of your female figure. Soft, falling down folds of fabric on the sides will add completeness, femininity and unusual lightness to the image.
Using a dress with delicate drapery on the bodice when wearing will help a woman to visually make her breasts larger. Also, this option for draping the outfit will allow you not to draw attention to the fairly wide hips of the fair sex. Owners of a perfect slim figure can wear dresses with light drapery at the waist. In this case, the outfit will emphasize all the advantages of your figure and add a touch of romance to your image.
In the tailoring of evening and wedding dresses, drapery options from the bodice or the waist are very often used. This variation of the cut of an elegant garment allows you to make the dress romantic, original and elegant. If you wish, you can use an outfit with a variant of the drapery on the stomach.
How to cut a draped dress correctly?
We bring to your attention a detailed description of the process of cutting and sewing a dress with an original drapery. For draping the bodice of your dress, you must take the pattern in an expanded form, if the draperies are planned to be asymmetrical. This is most often the case - all the sophistication of draperies is revealed in the asymmetry of their cut.
First, you need to draw on the material the line of the neck and shoulder of your product. Chest darts in the shoulder seam get in your way and prevent you from finding beautiful cut lines and armholes. It is for this reason that we recommend removing the darts to a temporary place. In this case, it is convenient to "hide" them in the darts of the waist of your dress.
Study the model lines in detail and carefully, draw them on your template in a spread: two - from the neckline, one - from the line of one of the draperies of the dress.
Connect the lines of future draperies with the tops of the darts of the waist of your product, in which the entire version of the assembly of the chest darts is assembled. Next, you need to cut along the lines of your pattern.
Carefully close the darts of the waist of your garment, distributing the dart patterns in the line of flowing draperies. In our example, we do not leave darts at the waist, completely transferring their solution to the draperies of the dress.
The back in our model is designed very simply, so we restrict ourselves to transferring the lines of the elongated shoulder and the width of the cutout from the shelf. The lock in our master class uses a zipper, which we have in the middle seam of the back.
The skirt is cut in A-line or with a semi-sun shape. Remember that the radius of the upper cut of the half-sun skirt is calculated as "the circumference of the waist divided by the number Pi (3.14)".
When cutting from fabric, several points must be taken into account. First of all, draw with chalk the connection lines of the future draperies. The points will touch in order: one, two, three. Next, add seam allowances along the neckline, about 1-1.5 centimeters. Allowances for other seams must also be taken into account.
Connect the dots according to the pattern in order of one-two-three. Finish the neckline with a regular piping to the shape of the neckline.
A selection of thematic videos for beginners
We offer you several videos on the topic of the article.
When sewing products from plain fabrics, designers, in order to emphasize the properties and texture of the fabric, try to create complex and interesting styles, using a variety of modeling techniques in the products - embossed seams, undercuts, assemblies, tucks ... However, there is an easier, but no less effective way to make it. A knitted dress in a gentle peach color from the French brand Lanvin is a vivid confirmation of this. The play of light and shadow in the folds and draperies of this dress is unique and changes every time you move. In our today's lesson, we will show you in detail how to model a knitted dress pattern with drapery around the waist. This kind of drapery is also called "twisted drapery" or "drape knot".
We design all the patterns that are published on the site of the Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati and accompany them with detailed instructions so that you can easily figure it out. Then we check each pattern in the most careful way - we sew the layouts, analyze the fit and accuracy of the patterns, and only then publish the finished patterns on the website pages.
Especially for this lesson, we designed a pattern for the presented dress and sewed a model of the product. You can do all this yourself by following the detailed instructions below. Depending on the density and properties of the material that you will use to sew your dress, the amount of folds may be less or more than in the presented models, take this into account when designing a pattern.
To model a pattern, you will need one that you need to build according to your measurements. The length of the dress from the waist in the finished form is about 60 cm.
Rice. 1. Dress with draped waist - back view
Back modeling
On the back pattern, deepen the neckline by 2 cm, shorten the shoulder to 9 cm. Draw a new line for the armhole and the neckline for the back (Fig. 2). From the hip line, set aside 10 cm down and narrow the side seam of the back by 1.5 cm.
Front modeling
Taper the side seam of the front in the same way as for the back. Draw the front neckline from the center of the waist tangentially to the front neckline to the shoulder line.
Apply the cut lines (red lines) to the pattern in front. Cut in front along the waistline and cut lines (fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Dress pattern with draped waist
Spread the front parts as shown in fig. 3. Along the cut line, add a hem allowance 3-4 cm wide. The more you spread the details, the more voluminous drapery will turn out.
When forming a knot, the parts are twisted in the center when sewing. To do this, between the details of the bodice and the skirt, it is necessary to add a 4-7 cm supply of fabric (depending on the density of the fabric from which the dress is sewn). Slightly round off the transitions between the bodice and the skirt (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3. Modeling the drapery of the front of the dress
Details of the dress are shown in Fig. 4. For sewing a dress you will need: about 2.0 knitted fabric with a width of 145 cm, threads to match, a spacer for hem allowances and front cutout.
Rice. 4. Details of the dress cut with drapery at the waist
Wrap all allowances in the process of sewing with an overlock seam. Bottom and front cutout allowances. Promise allowances on the front details at the middle seams. Sew the middle seam of the front from the bottom to the mark, iron the allowances. Place the left half over the right half (fig. 5).
Rice. 5. Forming drapery knot
Then twist the bodice parts by putting the right half over the left one (fig. 6).
Rice. 6. How to sew a dress with a draped knot
The bodice in a prepared twisted form is shown in fig. 7.
Rice. 7. The bodice of the dress in a prepared form with a twisted knot
Stitch the welt seams from the seamy side of the front to the knot, iron the allowances (Fig. 8).
Rice. 8. Waist seams of the dress
Sew the middle seam along the back, iron the allowances.
IMPORTANT! If you are sewing a dress from a material with a low content of elastane, sew on the back. In this case, you will need to cut out the back neck for processing.
Stitch the shoulder seams. Fold the seams along the neckline of the back and front to the wrong side. Sew only the allowances along the neckline of the back with flexible blind stitches by hand.
Rice. Product mockup on a mannequin - drape knot
Stitch the side seams, promise allowances. Overcast seams along armholes, fold over and sew by hand with blind stitches.
Rice. Mock up dress with drapery on a mannequin - front view
Promise, fold and sew by hand on the hem of the dress.
Rice. Ready-made dress with draped waist
The dress is ready. Wear it with pleasure and be happy!
You will find even more original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity on the site of Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!
Good afternoon. Today our tutorial will focus on draperies. This element of modeling can perhaps be called the most species-forming - it is this cutting element that can modify our basic pattern beyond recognition.
As we remember, all dress models can be created on the basis of one single basic dress pattern. And if you do not have it yet, then you can get your individual basic pattern on our website.
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Go to order page basic dress pattern - enter the measurements you have taken in the special fields - click the "Get pattern" button - and our program will generate your individual basic dress pattern. You can use it after paying for the service (it's very cheap)
It is with this pattern that you will be able to model and sew a dress of any style that will “sit” on you perfectly. And our modeling lessons will help you with this. And now I bring to your attention just one of these lessons - today we will deal with such a modeling technique as drapery.
To make it immediately clear to you what exactly we are talking about, I have prepared several photo selections in advance with various ways of draping the fabric. But before moving on to the types of drapery, I want you to understand one thing ...
All-all-all draperies are created in two ways:
The first method is the free flow of tissue directly over the body. That is, a piece of fabric is cut out (or several pieces of fabric are sewn together) in such a way that there are holes in the structure for inserting the head and two hands. And everything else flows freely through the body, forming fluid folds according to the laws of physics.
The second method is the flow of fabric over the lower base dress. First, the base dress is sewn. It can be a regular, classically tailored sheath dress or a tank top dress or a bustier dress, whatever. And then draperies from fabrics are sewn over this dress - somewhere in a stretch, somewhere with a large allowance for freedom of flow. And depending on the shape of the piece of fabric sewn onto the dress, depending on where we sew the drapery to the base dress, every time we get a whole new and new drapery dress.
Now, let's look at the photos and try to get a feel for the principle on which this or that drapery is created.
Thick fabric draperies. Although I just talked about the principles of fabric flow, this does not mean that you can only drape soft flowing fabric. Draped dresses made of dense, even wrinkled fabrics look quite interesting. But the cut of such draperies, it seems to me, can be resorted to after you have gotten your hands on the creation of soft flowing drapery dresses.
The most common types of draperies are over the shoulder. When a piece of fabric is thrown over one shoulder and secured at the shoulder seam and around the waist or hips with blind stitches or a specially sewn additional element of the cut. Such draperies are sewn on, as we see on the base dress. And you know what else they are good for. Firstly, they perfectly hide an extra tummy, visually narrow their broad shoulders. Secondly, if you suddenly planted a stain on your favorite dress, you can extend its life by sewing such a drapery covering the defect in this place.
Wrap drapery is ideal for women who are not completely satisfied with their figure. Such a sewn-on drapery-smell flows straight from the shoulder to the bottom of the hem, covering all unwanted folds on the body. In such a dress it is convenient to go on a visit, where a plentiful feast is expected. You can safely eat and not be afraid that you will be inflated like a balloon. Such draperies are very easy to cut and sew. In our today's article, we will design just such a drapery.
Chiton draperies will probably never go out of fashion either. Such draperies can be cut both independently (a fabric cut along an oblique fabric, with allowances for flow, will flow beautifully over the body) and with a dress-base (moreover, it is better to sew a dress-base also in a loose, non-adjacent cut and from the same fabric as the upper one chiton-drapery).
Swinging draperies - I decided to attribute this type of drapery to a separate type of modeling. And I will make a separate article specially for it.
Side seam draperies - all these draperies are created according to the principle of first lengthening the dress, and then trimming and shortening it along the side seams. Such a dress is easy to make if you first cut out a long, tight-fitting sundress from a stretch fabric. And then sew an ordinary linen elastic to the side seams of this sundress - it will pull off the dress in the seams and gather it into an accordion of horizontal draperies. Or the same effect can be obtained by sewing such a long cut dress in a gather over a short cut base dress.
Sector drapery - this part is cut out to a larger size than on the base pattern and then, along the outlined lines-boundaries of the sectors, it is smoothed onto an elastic band in a small fold.
Knotted drapery is a type of drapery that consists of a piece of fabric (or two pieces of tacky) tied in a knot. The fabric is taken and tied with a knot, and then the edges of the fabric from the knot are draped in a stretch, over the base dress.
Cross-drapery is obtained when two pieces of drapery fabric are crossed and each draped on the opposite side. That is, we drape part of the left piece on the left side of the dress, we drape part of the right piece on the right side of the dress - and then we swap them and half of the left piece is already draped on the right half of the base dress, and half of the right piece is draped on the left side of the dress.
It is better to start learning draperies from a small section of the cut. For example, make a dress with a draped skirt. As in the photo below.
Or cut only one part of the dress for drapery, for example, a bodice. To do this as in these models - to expand the bodice of the dress - and then narrow it back, removing all unnecessary in the gathering-drapery.
Now let's see how the drapery pattern is modeled. And let's do it using one of the dresses in our photo selection as an example. Well, let's take one of the latest photo collection - I liked this beautiful asymmetrical dress in a muted orange color. We are going to model it now. Such a beautiful dress is even pleasant to sew. I already look forward to how, with a light gait, on a beautiful May day, I will be pacing under the shade of chestnuts in these lovely flowing folds. Hey-ge-e-her !!! You will see, it will not be so difficult - at first glance it seems one of the most difficult. But that's why I chose him for this master class. So that you understand - what seems difficult - in fact, turns out to be simple and easy.
So let's take a good look at our dress first. What do we see?
- This dress is cut at the waist - that is, the bodice is cut separately, the hem separately - and then they are sewn together.
- The bodice is cut over one right shoulder and also has a gather on the left side. And apparently the bodice is going to be 2 parallel sewn elastic bands. They are sewn on the bodice tightly, and then shrinking, pulling the bodice behind them into a chaotic assembly.
- The hem also has an asymmetrical drapery, which folds into neat even folds at the waist. The front and back of the hem have the same cut.
- The dress has a zipper - its location can be in the center of the back - but most likely it is sewn into the side seam (left or right - we will sew into the right one) and goes from the armpit to the hip line.
These observations will help us better understand the principles of pattern construction. Now we will deal with this very construction.
1 Divide the base pattern into segments.
On the basic sewing pattern of the adjacent silhouette, we sketch out the outlines of our bodice and hem. The outline of the hem matches the hem of the base pattern. But the bodice has an asymmetric silhouette - a smooth line from the right shoulder to the left armpit. We drew the outlines and immediately cut them out with scissors.
Now that the segments we need have been extracted from the base pattern (and the excess is cut off), we can start modeling (from these segments of the base pattern) - the details of the future drapery pattern.
We divide the basic pattern into segments.
2 Modeling the bodice pattern.
Now we take our bodice segment and make a cuts on it corresponding to the directions of the drapery folds. Since the folds of the drapery at the bodice of our dress are horizontal, the cutting of the bodice should also be horizontal.
We simulate the pattern of the front bodice.
We move the "blades" of the cut to the sides - thus expanding the left side of the bodice. This expansion will then be pulled back - it will shrink into folds-draperies - and our bodice, in a sewn form, will return to its original outlines.
You can immediately draw a line on the bodice pattern for sewing in a future elastic band. We will then translate this line into small pieces and into the cut part.
And the pattern of the bodice of the back - repeats the pattern of the front along the outlines. We do not need to expand it - there is no drapery on the back - so we leave the detail of the back bodice unchanged.
We get these ready-made details for cutting the bodice of the dress.
3 We simulate the pattern of the front hem.
We take our "hem" segment of the basic pattern - and from it we will model the hem pattern with the intended drapery.
As we can see, the drapery along the upper edge of the hem is laid in folds - the same depth, and located at the same distance from each other.
Moreover, each of the first four folds additionally gives a soft rounded drapery fold on the side (right) side of the hem.
This means that the hem pattern must be widened not only along the top edge, but also along the right side.
We model a skirt drapery - outline the equidistant points of the folds and connect them with lines.
To make the expansion uniform, we will draw 4 equidistant points on the upper edge of the "hem" segment of the basic pattern (in those places where the dress has the first four folds).
And draw the same equally spaced 4 points on the right side of the hem.
Now we connect these points (4 on the side and 4 on the upper side) with rounded lines - we draw the lines as we see future folds.
Plus, we add two more lines to the four lines - these will be the fifth and sixth folds - those that are located to the left of the dress.
Now, along the lines we have drawn, we cut our parts. We cut four lines to the end - we cut off pieces of future folds directly. And we do not cut the last two lines to the end - we will simply spread them apart with a fan.
And now the resulting parts need to be laid out on a new sheet of paper, slightly moving the cut pieces of the hem folds apart from each other, and pushing the incised ones apart. The distance you need to move and move apart the hem details, choose at your discretion - the further you move the details, the deeper the folds on our drapery will be.
On a new sheet of paper, we lay our pieces of the pattern in this way and draw a circle around the resulting contour.
When the cutting details have been laid in the right way, you need to circle the resulting shape along the contour. When tracing, you do not need to adhere strictly to the contours of each detail - on the contrary, IT IS NECESSARY TO COMPARE EVERYTHING TO STRAIGHT LINES. Look, in the picture, everything is outlined with exceptionally straight lines.
And be sure to mark on your new drawing the places of future folds - in my picture, each fold border is marked with small lines. Then, when we transfer this pattern to the fabric, it will be easy for us to find the places for laying the folds.
But this is not the final hemline pattern yet. The fact is that we have drawn the front detail of the hem. The back of the hem will look the same - only mirrored. And here's what is important ...
It is important to make our hem one-piece - that is, the hem of the front and back are made from one single piece of fabric. So that you do not need to make a side seam on the right (drapery) side of the hem. After all, it will turn out ugly - a drapery along which a side seam goes.
Therefore, we must cut the hem pattern so that the hem has only one side seam on the left side. And the free flow of the right side was not broken by the rough line of the side seam.
Here, in the picture below, I have depicted how to cut the hem so that the hem of the front and the hem of the back are connected together - that is, they are cut on a single piece of fabric.
We cut out such a solid piece (rice below). To do this, applying the pattern of our front hem to the fabric, first with one side - and then mirrored with the other side. We get at once to cut the entire hem - both the front and back.
But on the right side of the dress (in our cut-out one-piece hem, this is the central part) there will still be a small piece of the connecting side seam on top. Here, in the picture below, I showed it with arrows - these two edges will need to be sewn together (then when sewing a dress) - but in this place we will sew in a zipper. We have it going from the armpit of the bodice to this small section of the seam.
Such a one-piece cutting of the hem (one piece at once in front and back) helps to avoid the right side seam, which ensures free flow of folds of the side drapery of the hem. On the right side, there is only a small section of the side seam on top (arrow).
4 Sew all the details of the dress together.
Now that our pattern details have been transferred to the fabric and cut out, we can start sewing the dress.
- In the front part of the bodice we sew two stretches of elastic along the lines marked on the pattern of the front bodice. The elastic is sewn in tightly. And then she shrinks and together with her pulls the bodice of the dress into the drapery we need.
- Sew the front bodice with the back bodice in the shoulder seams.
- Form pleats at the hem. We simply connect one to one line of the folds drawn on our hem pattern (when cutting the hem, we finely transfer these lines to the fabric) - we manually sweep the folded folds with a thread and a needle.
After laying the folds, the upper edge of the hem should coincide in its length with the lower edges of the bodice of the front and back - we will sew the hem to the bodice - which means that the upper parts (bodice) should coincide with the lower parts (halves of the hem). If suddenly there is some kind of mismatch, then do not worry, it can be adjusted by simply deepening the folds or, on the contrary, pulling the missing length from the depth of the folds.
- We connect the upper bodice of the dress with the lower hem. Sew the upper edge of the hem (with folds already laid along it) to the lower edge of the front bodice and back bodice.
- We connect the left side seam of the dress - from the armpit to the bottom of the hem.
- We sew a zipper into the right side seam. This side seam goes from the right armpit and down the side of the bodice and even lower a few centimeters along the hem (the very few centimeters that we drew in the center of our cut hem and which showed the red arrows in the picture above).
- That's all when the details are sewn and the zipper is sewn in - all that remains is to process the edges of the neckline and the edges of the armholes (holes for the hands).
As you can see, Drapery is an interesting free creative modeling game. Due to the fluidity of the fabric, any of your "miscalculations" can appear on the dress with an additional beautiful fold. That is, there are no clear rules in upholstery - therefore there is no room for "miscalculations", mistakes or mistakes. Cut, expand, circle - and the pattern is ready. As you cut and open, this is how everything will be draped, and this is how your new drapery dress will look. And you will succeed - in any case.
Successful sewing.
