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Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of a dress by modeling a bust dart and a shoulder dart of the back.
Some models of shoulder garments are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to get this shape from a basic design is through structural modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface decreases in the front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the region of the shoulder blades, and the product is flatter, not emphasizing the chest.
Structurally, such a model shape is achieved by reducing the solutions of the upper dart of the front and the shoulder dart of the back, up to their complete elimination by modeling the basic darts.
Under by modeling a dart understand the transfer of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neck, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to get a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.
I propose to consider how to properly model the darts. To begin with, let's transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armholes.
As a rule, tackle darts are not used in products with a three-dimensional shape (depending on the model of the product). Therefore, we can simply remove the darts along the waist line on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of the tuck darts along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are constructed. If there is a notch along the waist line on the midline of the back, then this dart can also be removed and a new middle section of the back can be drawn.
Well, now let's move on to modeling the darts.
Shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the shelf drawing, we will build auxiliary lines to those cuts where it is possible to model the part of the breast dart:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the breast dart to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the line of the armhole- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the breast dart to the armhole line of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the breast dart, a vertical is built to the bottom line of the shelf.
Thus, we can model the bust dart: in the shoulder line, in the middle line, in the armhole line and in the bottom line of the shelf.
Consider several options for modeling a chest dart.
The first way
Cut the part of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.
We translate the solution of the chest dart:
in the line of the armhole can be modeled up to 2cm,
in the shoulder line- up to 1cm,
we will simulate the rest in the bottom line shelves.
When translating the tuck, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, an armhole line and a bottom line.
And so, we got a shelf without a breast dart.
Since we modeled the dart in the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, the shoulder line was accordingly lengthened by this amount. If the model does not need it, this value is cut off from the end of the shoulder. The bottom line has also lengthened, that is, the shelf has expanded to the bottom line. If such an extension along the bottom line is not desirable, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the side line.
Second way
This method is used if the product has a V-shaped neckline or a jacket-style collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the middle line.
Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the incision point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1cm. The rest of the dart can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable size is up to 2 cm.
We draw a new cut of the armhole, and a neckline or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a breast tuck.
Third way(modeling in the middle line)
If the shelf is not split or has a blind fastener, then you can use this method of modeling a breast dart.
Let's cut the part of the shelf along all the constructed construction lines.
This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole, we translate the solution of the chest tuck up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.
Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of contraction of the shelf along the chest line. Then draw a new armhole line and a bottom line.
The expansion of the shelf along the bottom line can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this expansion from the side cut.
Back modeling
To simulate the shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades, we also need to build auxiliary lines to the cuts of the back:
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder undercut to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end of the shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole to a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically downward.
Based on this, we can model the shoulder dart of the back in two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.
We cut the back part along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder dart:
in the shoulder line- by the same amount as on the shelf, in order to maintain the fit (up to 1cm)
in the line of the armhole- we translate the rest of the tuck (up to 1-2 cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.
Let's draw new cuts along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line the lengthening is cut off, which was obtained after modeling the breast dart, then on the back it is also possible to cut this lengthening from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder section of the back longer than the shoulder line of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the landing of the shoulder of the back.
Thus, we have a back pattern without a shoulder dart.
In products with split back
along the line of the middle, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder dart can be modeled - this is the middle line of the back. It is permissible to model up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder dart for this section of the back.
In this case, the line of the neck of the back becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, the expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the shoulder line from the side of the neck can be lengthened by the amount of expansion of the neck, and cut off the same amount from the end of the shoulder. Next, new cuts of the neck and armholes of the back are built.
Sleeve modeling
When modeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back on both parts, the armhole lengthened. Therefore, we need to change the shape of the sleeve. To do this, draw two cut lines on the sleeve pattern. The first line runs perpendicular to the ulnar line from the top of the ulnar dart to the edge of the sleeve.
We construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the ridge from the first line to the line in the middle of the sleeve. We postpone the resulting value along the bend from the middle line towards the front edge of the sleeve. Divide the bottom line of the sleeve in half from the front cut to the middle line.
We connect the resulting points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.
We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.
Now we move our sleeve along the rim so that the expansion is equal to the size of the modeling of the dart into the armhole of the shelf and back, minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the size of the dart modeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve you want to get.
We draw up a new line of the ridge with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.
And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.
When modeling a bust dart, you should be aware that it is not possible to achieve a good fit on a figure with a large chest (size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve without a bust dart. Therefore, it is better to limit the modeling of the bust dart to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of a product without a chest and shoulder dart can be obtained not only by modeling the basic structure, but also by building such a structure immediately, with lengthening the armhole, lengthening the front line and expanding the shoulder line. But more on that in the next publications!
When creating a new style and using the technique of moving a dart, it is always necessary to remember the following: in all positions and types of a breast dart, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.
And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the dart is shortened by 1 - 3 cm, if its sides are directed into the shoulder seam, into the neckline and into the armhole. And by 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.
If you have not yet built a dress pattern for yourself, we recommend using our
Move the dart to the armhole.
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
We set aside about 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the side line and put point D.
Note: Division into 3 is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can choose any point on the armhole line.
Let's continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.
We close the bust dart, thereby opening a new dart along the G7D cut line.
Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines with the ends of the dart.
Is it possible to remove the dart in the model you like? Of course! Modeling a bust dart is really not difficult at all.
How to properly close the dart without spoiling the pattern, consider the example of a knitted pullover model from.
Pattern:
Light gray knitwear makes this loose pullover with an asymmetrical bottom look sporty.
The pullover has a classic bodice with darts that only slightly outline the curve of the chest. The model is loose, made of thin knitted fabric, so here you can do without a bust dart. Let's remove the dart right on the pattern.
Step 1
On the shelf from the top of the bust dart, draw a parallel line in relation to the line of the middle of the front.
Step 2
Step 4
Transfer the remaining width of the dart to the bottom line - place the cut until the dart closes completely and
Fix it with tape.
Step 5
In this case, the shoulder length increased by 1 cm, and
The bottom line is 7 cm. If these changes are undesirable,
Then remove 1 cm from the end of the shoulder seam.
We remove the excess width along the bottom line into the side seam, but no more than half or 2/3 of the size (respectively 3.5 or 4.5 cm).
Taking these changes into account, draw a new side seam line and
We cut off the excess.
What are used in the product, read on the site
Now you know how easy and simple it is to remove the breast dart so that the shelf of the model you like turns out to be without a dart.
The bodice with side darts is very popular among the craftswomen due to the simplicity of modeling and sewing the product. This method of modeling can be successfully used where complex shapes are not needed, because due to the minimum of seams on the bodice, you can very advantageously show, for example, an original print or fabric texture. This design option can be used when sewing dresses, blouses, shirts.
Advice! Before you start modeling, draw and determine the angle of inclination of the side dart. It can be positioned at different angles relative to the top of the breast dart, depending on the model.
Modeling a dress pattern with side darts
To model the darts, use what we hope you already have in your arsenal. If you do not have a basic dress pattern and you are not yet ready to build it yourself, we suggest you. Choose the one that best suits your measurements from five life-size sizes.
From the bottom point of the armhole, set aside 5-6 cm on the side (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). On the pattern, mark the point Ts.G. (center of the chest) and lengthen the bust dart by connecting the extreme points of the dart with the point center of the chest (new top of the bust dart). From point 5-6, draw a segment to the top of the chest dart (Ts.G. - center of the chest). Cut the pattern along the modeling line. Close the bust dart, shorten the opened side dart by 2 cm (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with a side dart
IMPORTANT! When translating the bust dart to the side line, you do not need to shift the top of the dart to the Center bust point, in this case the modeling will look like in fig. 2 and 3.
From the bottom point of the armhole of the bodice, lay down 3-5 cm (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). Connect point 3-5 to the center point of the chest and make an incision from the side to the point C. G.
Rice. 2. Transfer of the dart to the side line
Next, cut the breast dart on one side and close. To do this, it is necessary to cut the pattern along one of the sides of the breast dart to the Ts.G. point and, aligning the sides of the dart, glue it. The side dart opens automatically to the desired depth.
Then shorten the opened chest dart by 1.5-2 cm so that its top is displaced to the left of the Center of the chest.
What is it for? A slightly shortened dart will smoothly fit the contours of the chest and will not create sharp corners.
The finished bodice pattern is shown in fig. 2b. The bodice is cut with a fold along the line of the middle of the front.
Rice. 3. Bodice with side dart
You will find even more original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity on the site of Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!
You can start modeling. And one of the main modeling techniques is the transfer (translation) of a breast dart. Further I will describe 7 examples translation darts, read.
Initially, the shelf looks like this picture. Chest dart is located from the center of the chest to the shoulder seam. We will only model the shelf. You see a dress next to the shelf. Such a dress will turn out if the breast dart is left as it is.
The pattern can be cut from the constructed drawing, or made a copy. It is better to make a copy and leave the drawing, it will still come in handy.
To make a copy of the pattern, it will be necessary to transfer all the contours using a cutter, carbon copy or tracing paper to paper. We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is in the drawing: constructive horizontal and vertical lines, darts.
If you do not want to bother with sheets and cutters, I invite you to the course, we will simulate on a computer and save our time. In the program, we copy the file with the base pattern with one click and start modeling. Parametric patterns with translated darts are suitable for cutting any shoulder product: dress, jacket, coat ... And they can also be used for further more complex modeling.
Modeling
- So, we transferred the pattern of the base of the shelf (front half) with a chest shoulder dart from the drawing to another sheet.
- Next, we draw a new line for the position of the dart and connect it to point G7. Point G7 is the base of the bust dart.
- We cut the dart along a new line, while closing the solution of the chest dart from the shoulder and aligning its sides.
- We got a new tuck in a different direction.
This principle works in all examples of dart translation.
Breast dart translation options
1. Transfer of the breast dart to the armhole line
From point G7 to any point on the armhole, draw a new dart line. In the figure, this line is marked in red. Then we cut the pattern along the marked line without reaching the point G7 1-2 mm. And we will open a new dart, while closing the previous dart, which was from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new dart coming from the armhole line.
2. Transfer of the bust to the side seam line
In this example, draw a new dart line from point G7 to the side cut. This point is also chosen arbitrarily, about 3 - 10 cm from the armhole line. And we cut this line in the same way. Open a new dart while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
3. Transfer of the dart to the side seam at the level of the waist line
Similarly, we translate the dart into the side seam at the level of the waist line. In this example, the point is located at the intersection of the waistline with the side seam. In the drawing, this is point T4. We connect point T4 with Point G7 and cut the pattern along this line. We open the bust dart in a new place, while closing it at the shoulder seam.
4. Transfer of the breast dart to the bottom line
In this example, we lower the vertical from the G7 point to the bottom line. And we cut the pattern along this line. We also cut out the waist dart on a paper pattern in this example. You can cut it out in advance or after we cut the vertical from point G7. We also cut this dart on the fabric. The main thing is not to forget about the seam allowance!
In this example of the translation of a bust dart, we kind of combine two darts: a waist and a bust. If you do not grind the dart, we get a trapeze dress. But then the back also needs to be made in the form of a trapezoid.
5. Transfer of the bust to the neckline
In this example, point G7 is connected to an arbitrary point on the neckline. We cut the pattern along this line, not reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. Open the new dart while closing the dart from the shoulder line. Instead of a dart in this example, you can make gathers or folds along the neck.
6. Transfer of the breast dart to the point of intersection of the neckline and the middle of the shelf
An example similar to the previous one. Only the point on the neckline is not taken arbitrary, but at the intersection with the middle of the shelf. In the drawing of the base pattern, this is point A5.
We connect A5 with G7 and cut 1-2 mm before reaching the point G7. Move the lines of the new dart apart, while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
7. Transfer of the bust to the middle of the front
And the last option is a tuck from the middle of the shelf. This option can be with a seam from the neck to the dart line or with a seam from the neck to the bottom.
We do everything in the same way as in the previous examples. We connect point G7 with an arbitrary point on the line of the middle of the shelf. In this example, the dart line is horizontal. But it can be located at any inclination (angle) to the line of the middle of the shelf.
These are examples of the translation of a breast dart.
Do you understand the principle?
If you have any questions, ask in the comments or at. I will answer with pleasure.
With the help of techniques, we will be able to create patterns for any model of clothing you like. If you liked this lesson, subscribe to new blog articles, we will model a bodice with yokes, with embossed seams, undercuts, draperies, etc.
© Olga Marizina
