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Children's dresses are quick and easy to sew by yourself. Part 2

In this part of the article, we will create a dress based on our pattern from the first part of the article.

We don't have to draw any additional patterns. The pattern that we used when creating dresses in the first part of the article will very often come in handy when creating more and more new models, so do not throw it away under any circumstances, but save as template.

Every time we model a new dress based on a pattern-template, we will have to make some notes on it, this should not be done on the template (otherwise, we will soon have it all in notes from different models, and you will get confused in search of the stroke you need ). Just copy the template - that is, put it on a sheet of wallpaper and circle - and already on this freshly received pattern and draw what you need. Modify the pattern by shortening it or marking the sewing lines for the flounces like on the dress in this article. Now you will see and understand everything.

Today we will sew this children's dress. Once I found this photo in the depths of the Internet and I really liked this, charming in its simplicity, delicate dress with lush flounces and a flirty bow on the shoulder. I wish I could sew something like that then, but at that time I still had a dim idea of ​​how it was sewn. But today I know how to do it and will teach you.

It's quick and easy. We just need our pattern-template from the first part of the article (link to the article above) and a pencil.

Model 1. Dress with 3 frills.

We make notes on the pattern.

We take a ready-made pattern from the first part of the article (see the link to the article above) and on this pattern-template outline the lines, to which we will sew shuttlecocks (Fig. 1). We draw lines not straight, but slightly rounded, like the bottom line of the pattern-template (bottom edge of the hem).

We sew a base dress.

First, using a pattern-template (Fig. 1), a detail of the back and front was cut out of the fabric and the side and shoulder seams were sewn. We processed the neckline and armholes, bent the bottom of the hem, that is, formed the base to which we will sew the shuttlecocks. We have already told all the details of how to sew a base dress in a previous article.

We make shuttlecocks.

We cut the strips of fabric of the desired length and width (Fig. 2). Length strips - at your discretion, the longer you have a shuttlecock, the thicker the folds will be when sewing it on (cut off the excess). The upper shuttle will be shorter, the middle one longer, and the lower one the longest. We prepared 3 shuttlecocks, processed their edges, bent and stitched them (Fig. 2)

Width the shuttlecocks should be sufficient so that the upper shuttlecock covers the seam of the lower shuttlecock - that is, 3-5 cm more than the distance between the outlined lines on the pattern (+ by a centimeter for the bend of the upper and lower edges - the edges of the shuttlecock must be processed before they are sewn).

Sew flounces to the dress.

Now, on this ready-made dress, the same lines were outlined with chalk as on the pattern - sewing lines for shuttlecocks(fig. 1). Now we take the upper flounce and sew it by hand to the dress along the outlined fine line, starting from the side seam and around the entire dress. When sewing on, we make uniform folds-tucks.

Then we sew the remaining 2 shuttlecocks in the same way.

And that's it - our baby dress is almost ready. Now, if you wish, you can buy a piece of an ordinary bow or ribbon and sew one strip at a time to the armholes of the back and front (the armholes are the holes for the arms), and tie them on the girl's shoulder with a neat bow - see the photo at the beginning of the article.

As you can see in the photo, flounces for a dress can be cut from fabrics of different colors. You can make a bright rainbow.

Or smooth transition of different shades of the same color range, - that is, the bodice of the dress is light pink, the first flounce is deep pink, the second flounce is dark pink, the third flounce is closer to cherry blossom (Fig. 2).

Or do black and white classics: the bodice is black, the first flounce is white, the second flounce is black, the lower flounce is white (Fig. 1).

Or smart black and white version: black bodice, white flounces, and sew black lace along the edge of each white flounce. Alternatively, the flounces are black, and the lace is white and the same lace is sewn around the neckline and armholes.

If your dress needs a fastener (in the case when the child's head does not fit into the neckline), then in the article you can choose any type of fastener for your two-layer dress, or do it easier, widen the neckline.

In short, fantasize, create! Based on this model, you can get such different dresses.

Successful sewing!

I will be glad to see your questions, wishes and remarks in the comments to the article. There you can also post photos of dresses you sewn (or photos of dresses that you would like to sew, but do not know how).

Olga Klishevskaya specially for the site

Level of difficulty: simply

When ordering a pattern, you will receive 3 pdf files:

• A file with instructions for printing a pattern, containing a control square and measurements, according to which the pattern was built;
• File with a pattern in A4 format, for printing on a regular printer
• File with a pattern on one large sheet - for printing on a plotter

Sample pattern:

* PRINT ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:

When printing a pattern in A4 size, open Adobe Reader and check Actual Size (or uncheck Fit to Page) in the print settings.

Notice the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the scale is set correctly on your printer when printing. Before printing the entire pattern, print out the sheet with the red square and measure it. 10 cm sides? therefore, you can print the rest of the pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale for your printer. Otherwise, the pattern is not printed correctly.

After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the order shown: the letters (A / B / C +) represent the column, and the numbers (01/02/03 +) represent the row. The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

* PRINT ON PLOTTER:

When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Adjusting page size and handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Clipping Marks, Labels, and Split Large Pages Only.

The following designations are adopted on the pattern:

Parts list

From the main material:

1.Shelf - 1 pc. folded

2.Back - 1 child. folded

3.Sleeve - 2 children

4.Cuff - 2 children.

5. Backstitching - 1 piece

6.Oborka - 2 children.

7. Shelf facing - 1 pc. folded

A) slanting strip 14.0 cm / 3.5 cm - 2 children.

Layout example. For ruffles, the fabric is laid out in one layer, face down.

From doublerin:

1.Cuffs - 2 children

2.Trimming the shelf - 1 pc. folded

3. Backstitching - 1 pc.

Allowances: for seams - 1.5 cm, for hem of the hem of the frill - 2.5 cm. Detail A is indicated with allowances. Allowances are not required along the inner edge of the facing.

Sewing sequence:

Duplicate the parts indicated in the "From dublerin" list with adhesive material.

Sleeves. In accordance with the template, outline the position of the cut. Fold detail A in half along the long cuts, with the wrong side inward, and press it on. Cut the sleeve along the basting. Apply det. From the front side of the sleeve. And, equalizing with the cut cuts, chop with pins. Sew from the side of the sleeve, seam width 0.5 cm. Press the allowances towards the strip. Wrap the allowances with a strip, forming an even edging (about 0.5 cm). Hand stitch, then sew from the right side along the piping 0.1 cm from the seam. Fold the edged sides of the cut, aligning the cuts. In the middle, from the seamy side, topstitch the corner (fig. 1).

Then fold the sleeves face-in. Stitch with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Neaten seams with an overlock or zig-zag stitch. Press on the elbow allowances using the sleeve cushion.

Cuffs. Lay assembly lines along the lower edge of the sleeve: the first at a distance of 1.3 cm, the second - 0.7 cm from the first. Pull the lines to the length indicated on the template. Fold the cuff part with the wrong sides inward, press it in half, along the long sections. From the front side, attach one of the longitudinal sections of the cuff to the assembled section of the sleeve. Align the notch cuff with the incision. Pin with pins, equalizing the cuffs, stitch on the cuffs with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Trim the allowances to 1.0 cm. Fold the cuffs in half on the short sides. Sew the corners of the cuff with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Trim to 0.7-1.0 cm. Turn the corners of the cuff to the right side. From the seamy side, baste the second longitudinal section of the cuff, bending over the allowance. The fold should overlap the joining stitching. From the front side, sew along the cuff 0.1 cm from the seam. Remove the basting stitches, gather stitches, and press on the cuffs and cut (fig. 2).

Fold the sleeves with the right sides inward, aligning the cuts. Pin off, matching the notches. Sew with a seam width of 1.5 cm. The stitching starts at the neckline of the backrest, for example, and ends at the side edge of the backrest. Sew in the second sleeve in the same way. Overcast the cuts. Press the seams on the sleeve.

Sew shoulder seams on piping. The width of the seam is 1.5 cm. Trim to 1.0 cm. Iron the seams. Neither overlock or zig-zag stitching should be used to overcast the outer cut of the facing.

Back slit. Mark a cut on the seam from the seamy side of the back. Place back trim, wrong side up, on the right side of the back, aligning the middle of the parts. Basting around the incision. On the right side of the cut, insert a loop of the hat elastic, so that the cutoffs of the loop are aligned with the cutoffs, and the loop itself is on the front side. Overcast the cut to the width shown in Fig. 3. Pin off the neck sections and overstitch with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Trim the allowances to 0.7-0.5 cm. Cut the backrest details and back trimming between the stitches. In the corners of the neck, cut off the allowances obliquely. Unscrew edging and cut corners. Hand stitch the straight edge of the cut. Also, sweep the edge of the neckline. Press down on the neckline and cut. Stitch off the neckline and incision 0.1 cm from the edge (Fig. 3).

Fold back and shelf parts with the front sides, equalizing the side cuts. Stitch with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Neaten seams with an overlock or zig-zag stitch. Press on back seam allowances using the sleeve cushion.

Stitch the side cuts on the details of the frills with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Neaten the cuts. Press the seams. Hem the lower cuts of the frills with a seam with a closed cut (Fig. 4). Lay assembly lines along the upper cuts of the frill: the first one at a distance of 1.3 cm, the second - 0.7 cm from the first. Pull the lines to the length indicated on the template.

Fold the frill and back / shelf right sides inward. Chip off the assembled cut of the ruffle with the lower cuts of the back / shelf, leveling the cuts and aligning the mid and side seams. Stitch the frill with a seam width of 1.5 cm. Neaten the cuts. Press the seams towards the back / shelf. Stitch off the front side 0.1 cm from the frill.

Iron the dress from the front side through the fabric.

Punch cuff loops. Sew on buttons.

Sew on a button at the neckline.

What a wonderful summer dress for a girl! The dress looks like a rainbow. Little fashionistas will be just happy to have such an outfit in their wardrobe! In addition, it is not difficult to sew it, since the dress is sewn for a girl, and rows of multi-colored frills are sewn along the top of the dress.

On the pattern of the back of the dress, shorten the shoulder length by 2 cm. From the bottom point of the armhole, set aside 2.5 cm upward, draw a horizontal dotted line. From the first line, set aside 5 cm up and draw a second line. Cut off the yoke of the back of the dress. Outline the bottom of the front and back of the dress - mark where the frills are to be sewn. The width of each frill is 6 cm, the distance between the frills (indicated by the lilac dotted lines) is 5 cm.

IMPORTANT! The upper frill is sewn under the yoke. The rest of the frills are sewn one under the other - each upper one overlaps each lower frill by 1 cm.

Modeling backless dress

Fig. 1. Dress pattern backless modeling

Modeling the front half of the dress

The pattern of the front half of the dress is modeled in the same way. Shorten the length of the shoulder, mark the location of the frills, cut the yoke and cut it out separately. The width of the frills is 6 cm, the distance between the frills is 5 cm.

Fig. 2. Dress pattern front modeling

We calculate the length of the ruffles for the dress

The length of the frills is 1.6 times longer than the distance between the side seams of the front and back of the dress. Cut the first and second frills (from the top) as shown in Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. - distance AA2 = A1A2 * 1.6; BB2 = B1B2 * 1.6. Re-cut the armhole cut from the base pattern. Cut out the frills in one piece, without side seams with a fold in the center of the front.

We sew a dress according to a pattern

You need to cut out:

• Front half of the dress - 1 piece with a fold
• Coquette of the front half of the dress - 1 piece with a fold
• Back of the dress - 2 details
• Dress back yoke - 2 details.

Ruffles: Cut out the desired number of ruffles with a fold in the middle of the front. If it is not possible to cut out the frills of the front and back without seams, cut out the frills of the front separately - with a fold in the center of the front of the dress and frills of the back - with a slit in the center of the back. Oblique piping for processing the neckline and armholes of the dress - 3 pieces, 3 cm wide and custom-made in length.

IMPORTANT! The width and the number of ruffles can be changed according to your wishes.

Sweep and grind the side seams of the front and back of the dress. Fold and stitch the bottom of the dress. Sew the frills along the bottom edge with a rolled seam.

Place a 4mm stitch across the top of each frill, pull each frill to the desired length. Straighten the assemblies. Overlock or zig-zag the gathered edge of each ruffle.

Stitch the ruffles on the dress, starting from the bottom. Each upper frill overlaps the lower one by 1 cm. The uppermost frill is sewn under the yoke. Sweep the yokes of the front and back of the dress along the side and shoulder seams. Sweep and grind off yokes with a dress face to face. Process the allowances.

Sweep and grind the back seam of the dress, not reaching 6-7 cm to the neckline of the back. Finish the allowances and iron them out. Cut the neckline of the dress and the armholes of the dress with oblique stitches, do not cut the ends of the stitches at the neckline of the back - at the back the dress is tied with a bow.

Pattern: fluffy dress for a girl with a pleated skirt (for 9 years)

Pattern: fluffy dress for girls with a skirt-sun (for 9 years)

How to sew a fluffy dress for a girl

Step 1. For a pleated dress, start from the bottom first. Process the bottom of the product and then lay the bow folds, you can see how to make a pleated skirt in this

Step 2. Sew the side and shoulder cuts on the top of the dress.

Step 3. Sew the cuts on the skirt. If you chose a model with a sun skirt (I wrote about how to sew a sun skirt), sweep the upper cut of the skirt and gather it to the size of the lower cut of the upper part of the dress. Then sew the skirt to the top.

Step 4. For convenience, sew a zipper into the back middle seam.

Step 5. On the sleeves, if present, make seams. Sweep the upper cuts and sew in the sleeves.

Step 6. To make the skirt even more magnificent, you should make a tulle petticoat, identical to the main skirt. Pull it over the dress, tuck it up and sew it to the zipper, and then to the stitching seam of the skirt.

Pattern of a fluffy dress for a girl

Download the patterns at the end of the post, open the PDF and print at full size. Cut out the details and reshoot them onto the fabric.

Dress pattern for a girl for 2 years (you can download it below)

What do you need:

• 60 cm elastic fabric for the top,
• 90cm knitted fabric for the skirt,
• paper pattern.

The width of the cut of the fabric for the skirt is 90 cm, and the length depends on your preferences (measure from the girl's waist line).

Finish the bottom of the sleeves. Cut the excess on small sleeves (shown by the arrow). Sweep and tighten slightly until the top of the sleeve is 12.5 cm. Sew the sleeves to the front and back top shelf. Sew the side seams on the tops of the girl's dress.

Sew the tape to the neckline. Sew on with a stretch stitch such as a zigzag stitch or a cross stitch.

Process the bottom of the future skirt. Baste the top and tighten the thread until the size of the top of the skirt matches the bottom of the top. Pin the skirt to the top and sew.

Another dress for a girl, made according to this pattern

MK: how to quickly sew a fluffy dress with a ballet skirt

And here is another option for a fluffy dress for a girl. It can be sewn in minutes as the top is ready. For her, we will take a blouse of a suitable size.

What you need:

• Blouse (you can have a T-shirt),
• 50 cm of jersey for the petticoat,
• 1 m tulle,
• elastic band.

Step 1. Cut off the excess part of the jacket so that it ends at the level of the girl's waist.

Step 2. Sew on a wide elastic band.

Step 3. Cut two trapezoidal pieces from the knitted fabric. To do this, attach the fabric to the cut of the blouse and draw two oblique lines starting from the waist. Cut out the resulting A-shaped pieces and sew on the sides.

Step 4. Cut the tulle into 2 equal pieces for a two-layer skirt. Sweep the cuts along the top and tighten to the size of the bottom of the top of the dress (in another way, to the size of the top of the petticoat). Sew the tulle skirt to the petticoat, and then sew to the wide elastic band on the top of our dress.

Master class: how to sew a dress for a girl from an adult sweatshirt

Now let's see how to transform your sweater into a dress for a girl. For work, you only need the sweatshirt itself.

First you need to rip off the sleeves. Then attach the child's T-shirt to the jacket folded in half, tucking it up from the bottom (tuck it where the waist begins). Circle and cut out the top. On the bottom, draw some pockets for the top of the dress. Next, draw a straight line to the bottom. Cut out the bottom of the product.

Cut out pockets on the remaining fabric. To do this, attach the sections for the pockets on the skirt to the fabric, circle, and draw the rest.

On the sleeves of the sweatshirt, cut out the sleeves for the baby dress. To do this, attach the sleeve to the top of the dress and draw a curved line from below. Sew in pockets.

Sweater dresses for girls - final

Sew the top and bottom. The dress for the girl from the sweatshirt is ready!