A selection of simple models with simple patterns that even beginners can handle. Without spending a lot of time in an hour and a half, a new new thing is ready!
Showy dress
An easy dress pattern, which, if desired and with a wide belt, may unexpectedly turn out to be a tunic that is not a sin to wear with narrow black trousers and high platform shoes. Believe me, it is quite possible for a beginner to sew a short dress without sewing skills!
on photo hosting →
This pattern for a girl with a height of 164-170 cm and a size of 46.48.50 will require 100 cm of knitted fabric with a width of 150 cm. Although, if you wish, you can always remake this pattern to any size. The skirt is 34 cm long to mid-thigh, in the original photo the length of the skirt is about 45-50 cm and a piece of fabric means you need to take 15-20 cm longer.
on photo hosting →

Fold the fabric right-side in, pin along the hem, fold, and a few random pins all over the fabric. Step back from the edge of the edge 1-2 cm, shallow the line and cut off the edge along this 1 line. Retreat 1.5-2 cm from the cut again and mark the line, this is the middle of the back.
Depart from the upper cut 1.5 cm and draw a horizontal line, on this horizontal line from (.) A to the left mark the points after 11 cm and after 34 cm (.) B.
From point (.) A down the fold through 56 cm mark (.) B, and from (.) B to the left a horizontal, on it 24 cm (.) E and after 36 cm (.) D.
From (.) B downward vertical 33 cm, and from (.) D left vertical 10 cm.
From (.) D vertical up to the intersection with the horizontal from (.) D. Make a fillet.
From (.) D up, mark 2 cm and smoothly connect with (.) E.
It remains to build a boat neck and the upper part of the shelf is ready. From (.) And put 4 cm down and smoothly connect with a point 11 cm.
Now, before proceeding with further construction, you need to draw seam allowances. For knitwear, a 1 cm allowance is sufficient. Draw allowances along the shoulder seam, neckline, armhole, side seam and hem.
Next, you need to build a skirt. Step down from (.) D 2 cm and from this point draw a horizontal line equal to one quarter of the measurement of your hips minus 2-4 cm (this value depends on the stretch of the knitted fabric, the more it stretches, the greater this number, but do not worry, because everything will be decided by fitting.) From this point (.) down the vertical.
Further down the fold down the desired length of the skirt, I want 34 cm and from this point to the left the horizontal to the intersection with the vertical.
From the conditional (.) B (conditional because we have stepped down 2 cm) to the left one quarter of your waist measurement minus 2-4 cm. I have it 19. I wanted to make the waistline 2 cm lower, the measurements changed accordingly.
Connect point 19 with a smooth curved line with the side seam. On fitting, the side seam is adjusted. Draw a 1 cm seam allowance along the waistline and side seam, a 3 to 4 cm seam allowance on the bottom.
Cut out the front and skirt. Attach the shelf to the opposite upper cut, chop, shallow. Take your time to cut. First you need to draw the neck of the back in accordance with the drawing. Apply a skirt, pin and cut out the back and skirt details.
Assembling the product.
There is a seam on the back, and there you can leave a small incision and make an air loop. Sew back seam. Process the neck of the back and shelves. Connect shoulder seams. The length of the seam to your taste is 5-7 cm or more from point 11. Connect the side seams, the bottom of the sleeve from (.) B by 4-5 cm. Process the bottom and the slit of the sleeves. Join the side seams on the skirt. Stitch the middle seam of the skirt and if you want to make a cut for a comfortable walk. Make an assembly on the back and front of the bodice. Connect with a skirt. Finish the bottom of the skirt. The dress is sewn with a knitted needle, a zigzag stitch or a special knitted stitch.

Hello my dear! Now the endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your imagination tells you. And you only have to work a little one time - now.

So do not be intimidated by the large number of letters and numbers in the drawing, in fact make a base pattern will be a feasible occupation for you, because I will tell you about it in simple language.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first you need to decide what kind of dress silhouette we want. Silhouettes are:

• Tight fitting
• Adjoined
• Semi-adjacent
• Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for size 46 for you.

Dress length = 85cm

For a snug fit I will take the following increments:

I wrote more about the increments above.

Don't be intimidated by this drawing, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

• build a grid
• upper back
• upper part of the front
• bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

CONSTRUCTING THE GRID

For your drawing, take graph paper better. It is most convenient on it. Substitute in the calculations instead of my initial data your measurements taken, and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing.

We put point A.

1. AH down = bottom line level = Product length = 85 cm
2. AT down = waistline level = Dts + Pdts = 42.9 + 1 = 43.9
3. AG down = armhole line level = Vprz + Pspr = 21.3 + 2.5 = 23.8
4. TB down = thigh line level = DLB = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to retrace the midline of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from point T. On it we put off TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T "and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G ", T". Mark them in your drawing.

Draw horizontals from all points.

Now we determine the width of the mesh = Г »Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We put aside the width of the back = Г »Г2 to the right = Шс + 0.2 × Пг = 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 = 18.3

We postpone the width of the front = Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) = 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) = 19.1

Checking the width of the armhole in the drawing:

• armhole width Г2Г3 = W mesh - W backrest - W front = 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 = 11.6

G2G3 we divide in half = the position of the side seam = we draw a vertical downward from the point G4.

Back construction

1. AU down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades = 0.4 × Dtc = 0.4 × 42.9 = 17.2 Set aside from point A downward and at right angles to the bend.
2. AA2 right = back neck width = 1/3 Сш + Пшгс = 18.3 / 3 + 1 = 7.1
3. A2A21 down = back neck depth = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs = 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 = 2.6

Shoulder slope: found using two radii (R):

• R1 = A2P1 = Shp + shoulder dart (1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder lengthening = 13.2 +1.5 +0.5 = 15.2 (we put a compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)

• (R2) = T »P1 = Vpks + Pdts = 42.9 +1 = 43.9 (we put a compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)

We build shoulder dart on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant). Draw a vertical down from it - this is the left side of the dart. We set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And we draw the right side of the dart, equalize both sides of the dart.

If the dart will be sewn up like a dart, without doing modeling, then the length of the dart is 10-12 cm. If there is a transfer of the dart to the side of the chest, then we do the dart to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

• from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
• We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. Add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is point P3.
• Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2 × 11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw the line of the entrance to the sleeve under the pattern.

Front building

To begin with, we make a lowering along the waist line:

• 0.5 cm for sizes 40-42
• 0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
• 1,2-2 for size 50-56
• over 2 - over size 56

Take a drop of 1 cm.

• T1 T11 down, postpone this decrease of 1 cm
• Now we make the same lowering along the bottom line: Н1Н11 down 1 cm.
• T11 A11 up = position of the upper point of the neck of the front = Dtp = Pdtp = 44.1 + 1.3 = 45.4

So that the dress fits well in the chest area (does not puff up) - you need to make a snug fit (half-sleeve).

• А11 А12 to the left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

• А12 А3 to the left = front neck width = АА2 (calculation from the backrest drawing) = 7.1
• A12 A4 down = front neck depth = A12 A3 + 1 (constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1

Building CHEST BUCKET .

• G1G5 left = position of the central line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Draw a vertical line through point G5 with a dotted line.

• Radius A3G6 on the central line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtn = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

• Radius A3 A5 = chest dart opening = 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) = 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) = 8. Put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
• Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2x radii.

• Radius A5 P5 = A2 P1 - shoulder dart = 15.2 - 1.5 = 13.7
• Radius G6 P5 = Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp = 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If the P5 point is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal equality is allowed.

We build sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

• Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 back (see figure below)
• Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check the width of the front at the level of point P6:

• W front = Wg + 0.1 × Pg = 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 = 17.1

To do this, we postpone from point P6 a perpendicular to the tuck line (see the dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck, at the same level, draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. We measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. We put the missing value on the horizontal from the point P6. We put new point P6.

We draw with the help of a pattern the line of the entrance to the pocket.

Width along the hips

Equalize the segments G "G4 = B" B21

We calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference = (Sat + Pb) - Г »Г1 = (50 + 1.5) - 49 = 2.5.

That is, the shortage along the line of the hips = 2.5 cm.It means that it is necessary to expand the half of the front and half of the back by 1.25 cm each:

• from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front of
• from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

We draw vertical lines from these new points.

We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T "T1 and your width at the waistline (based on measurements).

• Difference = T "T1 - (St + Pt) = 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) = 12

We distribute this difference between 4 darts:

1. in the middle seam 1.5
2. lateral 4.5
3. dart 3.5
4. front dart 2.5

• in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see in the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

• Side seam 4.5cm (see in the figure below: we set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the line of the hips)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see in the figure below: we divide the distance between the dart of the middle seam and the side dart on the back in half, from this point we set aside half the darts - 1.75 - to the right and to the left. parallel to the branch... From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the dart by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm and draw the lower side of the dart)

Front dart: 2.5 cm (see in the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest we lay aside the darts - 1.25 cm - from the point G6 we lower the angle of the darts by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the line of the hips)

We draw a line of the bottom along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)

Congratulations! If you have read this far, then perhaps you have a ready-made YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understand how it is done. But this is the first step to a series of beautiful future dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to make a translation of a breast dart so that it is invisible on the product. Until we meet again on the pages of the blog and Sew With Me!

Here is another very interesting option for constructing a base pattern on fabric:

Hello everyone. In the midst of a hot summer, you suddenly realize that there are still a couple of summer dresses missing. Let's try to sew a dress without a pattern quickly.

Exclusive outfit

If you decide to sew a dress with your own hands, then you can give free rein to imagination by inventing something that you will not find on any girl.

Let's get down to business!

First, we will sew a straight dress. You will need two lengths of knit fabric. If the material does not crumble, the sleeves and the neck can be left untreated, the bottom can be folded.

This model can be of any length.

Party outfit

You have been invited to a party, but there is no new outfit. In 2 hours you will update your wardrobe by sewing a wonderful evening dress made of stretch fabric without using a pattern.

The most elegant outfit has always been the little black dress.

1. Take 1 meter of fabric, fold in half.
2. Slip it into a wide-shoulder shirt.
3. Sketch out the top, then set aside the desired length from the waistline.
4. Then cut and sew the side and shoulder seams.
5. If the neck is small, increase the size.
6. Next, we sew the sleeves. We cut out 2 rectangles, making a width that corresponds to the girth of the arm at the widest point, and the length can be taken at will - 45-60 cm.
7. Attach the rectangles to the shelves and cut along the armhole.
8. Now the resulting sleeves need to be sewn on.

Following the description, you will get a great outfit for the evening.

Party dress in 15 minutes

1. Take the stretch material: length - 160 cm, width - 140 cm.
2. Fold in 4 layers. Measure just below your waist. Round the edges.
3. From the middle, measure a quarter of the measurement, draw a line upwards 60 cm.
4. Sew very evenly.
5. We cut out the neck, 40 cm long, 4 cm deep. The outfit is ready!

Let's go on vacation!

If you are planning to spend a vacation at sea, then a beach dress is an indispensable attribute of a summer vacation.

Let's try to sew some beach outfits.

Drawstring dress without pattern

Draw a rectangle, the width and length of which will depend on the desired dimensions. The shelf and back of the product will be the same. The shelf can be decorated with embroidery or beads so as not to be confused.

With drapery

We take thin flowing matter. It can be satin, silk, muslin, crepe. The product will have only one back seam.

• The length of the rectangle is 2-3 meters (it all depends on your size and the "density" of the folds).
• In the center of the rectangle we make an incision to the depth of the neckline: 5-10 cm.
• We design the upper edge as a drawstring, into which we insert 2 ribbons. At the back, the ends of the ribbons are sewn into the seam on the back, and in the front, we take them out of the drawstring into the cut and, when putting on the product, we tie them at the back of the neck.
• We tie it under the chest with a ribbon.

Light sundress

Take a T-shirt, attach it to the fabric and do everything as shown in the picture.

Floor-length dress

Long is sewn very quickly, but it looks charming!

How to sew:

1. You will need fabrics: two lengths from shoulder to waist with a width of 140 cm, plus 10 cm for the hem. Waist-to-floor length for slender young ladies.
2. For the top, take a rectangle, fold it in half. You will get the length from shoulder to waist plus 10 cm, cut.
3. From the edge, set aside for the width of the sleeve - 25 cm.
4. From the bottom up, lay 45 cm. Between the sleeves we measure the width of the hips plus 10-12 cm for freedom of movement.
5. Cut. You will immediately get sleeves and a shelf.
6. Sew the side seams and where the cut for the sleeves was made.
7. We turn the top by 10 cm. We sew for the elastic, leaving a small frill. Insert the elastic.
8. We turn the sleeves up 10 cm too. We sew them for the elastic. Insert the elastic.
9. Sew the rectangle for the skirt, make folds or gathers at the belt.
10. Sew on the top and skirt.
11. We decorate the waist with a wide belt.

This pattern will make a great summer blouse.

How to quickly sew a home dress without a pattern

Home dress should be comfortable and beautiful.

1. Fold the fabric in half, attach the shirt.
2. Circle the top of the shirt to the waist, then gradually start adding. Remember to leave seam allowances.
3. Cut, sew shoulder and side seams.
4. Fold in, grind the neckline and sleeves.
5. For convenience, you can sew on pockets.

Nobody will have such a thing

Let's take measurements for sewing a tunic:

1. Tunic length.
2. Product width (hip circumference + 5-10 cm for freedom).
3. Sleeve width (arm circumference + 5-7cm).

Transfer your measurements to the fabric, not forgetting the seam allowances.

Tunic made of rectangle for large size. Such a product will hide figure flaws.

1. Choose a lightweight, flowing fabric.
2. Fold 4 times to cut neckline and slip on.
3. You can sew a ribbon to the bottom and tie on the sides.

Another option for a light tunic, which is also suitable for sewing home clothes, if you increase the length. Transfer the measurements to the material and start sewing!

And a tunic and a dress! Just a few seams and a beautiful piece in your wardrobe. Even a novice dressmaker can sew on this pattern.

If you decorate the tunic with beautiful lace, you will get a nice little dress.

Knitwear can make a beautiful outfit with a peplum.

1. We fold the material along, put a T-shirt on it, circle it.
2. 2 parts are cut out. If the peplum is to be sewn in, then the waist line should be cut.
3. A rectangle is cut out of jersey, the length of which is equal to the waist and is doubled.
4. The length of the peplum is from 10 to 20 cm. Lightly smoothen on a typewriter with a weak thread tension.
5. Fold the upper and lower parts, insert a basque between them, grind.
6. We process the neckline, sleeves, bend it.

Finally, I want to turn to novice dressmakers: sew an outfit for trial without a pattern from a simple material, and then sew more boldly from whatever you want.

Patterns of women's dresses from Grasser bureau

The dress is the type of clothing that can perfectly emphasize all the charm of the female figure. Especially if such a dress is tailored individually. The GRASSER online store offers simple dress patterns that will be of interest to both beginners and experienced seamstresses. In our catalog you can choose patterns for a variety of models and for different female figures. Such patterns are created by real professionals of our clothing design and modeling bureau. This ensures that you face a minimum of hassle or trouble when sewing your dress.

The advantages of buying a ready-made pattern in our office:

• The pattern is made for a specific size (from 38 to 54);
• We offer sewing patterns for modern dress models, inspired by fashion shows;
• The pattern is accompanied by an accessible description with diagrams and instructions;
• All dress patterns can be bought at a very low price.

Sewing a dress according to a pattern is easy!

Even if you are new to sewing clothes, with a ready-made pattern, the whole process of creating a dress will not take you much time. It is very convenient that all the patterns are designed for printing them both on a regular printer on A4 sheets and on a large-format plotter. Immediately after paying for the order, you will receive your pattern in PDF format, which can be downloaded from your personal account. Using our simple patterns, you will get real pleasure, creating an original new thing for your wardrobe.

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern is the MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

visibility 917,872 views

Good day! I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - and dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

IT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW Frontier. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in an easy new way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

Not- I will not give you any ready-made patterns!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The lightest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me - it is.

Yes- it is very easy and simple to sew by yourself!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

And you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover - I will teach you yourself to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the pen in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacies of numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WILL NOT LEAD YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch up with fear and make a girl who really, really wants to sew a dress- but I was very unfriendly in school years with geometry and drawing... Even I - who adore both of these school subjects - walked around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: "Well, how long will it take to draw such a drawing, and after all, you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in letters ...".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (this is a piece from it you see from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-and-digit cobweb.

How is it? Have I removed some of your concerns yet?

Relax now - we won't start drawing right now. For starters, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know each other, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a base pattern?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast from your body. This is your personal print. Any item, sewn according to YOUR base pattern, will perfectly fit YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be stitched based on one single pattern... All-all models of dresses are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even in three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits your figure perfectly). Dress tailored to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual base pattern. See, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face oval.

All the other (any-lovable) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

This is how it works in the fashion world.

Once the fashion designer thought ...“And what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - the figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of opposite overlapping triangles (red outlines - the figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Nice? Nice! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a pattern basis. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just have a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we are already talking about a round yoke - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “And what if we give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs on the arm. " And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do that too. If you UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And according to what laws does it exist.

That is why I do not want to give you instructions stupidly to create a base pattern (like "read a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place of its intersection with line X with the next point ..." - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you bitch... I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Have learned to see what a simple drawing in essence hides behind a photograph of any dress, even intricately tailored.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes, we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. We will get acquainted with all its elements - we will find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It’s as if you’ve already drawn the base patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a pair of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as a thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us. "

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - the base pattern. We will tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple drawing - like a lattice for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a pair:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what these halves are for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. That is to say - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in Potnov's language the halves are called “shelves”. We will draw these very front and back shelves today. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: Tuck and ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce.

So, meet - PRIMA

When drawing the base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and the size armhole that suits you - when the armhole does not pull or dig into the arm.

That is, the base pattern contains minimum size of armholes permissible... You can simulate the armhole of your choice, of any configuration. But your fancy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole on the basis of the pattern - these are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not step.

Your model armhole can be as large as you want - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

DUTS ON BACK - Shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the darts of the back - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don't see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don't have it either. Because for convenience and beauty - this dart is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra tissue trimmed in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is being sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn.

Also darts are optional if you are sewing from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Let's get to know ... HALF DRUTS

Oh, you can write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain more clearly - what it is for and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought ... and came up with it.

The fact is that a woman has a breast.))) That is, in front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. A dart on the front shoulder gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in the pictures. How does this happen.

For example - we have a flat piece of fabric, and we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a dart on it. For example - this flat circle made of cardboard, with the help of a dart, will now become convex.

Here's how the brisket tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the breast dart the tip of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in the store, which was somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress was directed with its edge by the tops of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut for your breast shape at the factory.

But that's not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this breast dart is located not on shoulder- a on the side just below the armpit... This is for beauty. The dart on the shoulder is more striking, and from the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest dart from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Or else there will be ... We continue to walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

BREAST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We will sew it with you. Do not even hesitate)

The chest line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate on it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the front before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder dart is in front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to find out that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letters and numbers).

As you can see - there is a lot of everything !! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO FURTHER - WITH A BASIS PATTERN? - you ask

And we will begin to sew on the TOP pattern. It is tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not dresses immediately?" I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle So to be continued)))

Successful sewing!