Dress pattern 56 sizes with sleeves. Basic dress pattern for large size. Free fit allowances

07.11.2020 Interface

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern is the MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

Good day! I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - and dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

IT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW Frontier. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new in an easy way(I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method of constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

Not- I will not give you any ready-made patterns!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The lightest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me - it is.

Yes- it is very easy and simple to sew by yourself!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

And you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover - I will teach you yourself to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the pen in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacies of numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WILL NOT LEAD YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch up with fear and make a girl who really, really wants to sew a dress- but was not very friendly in school years with geometry and drafting... Even I - who adore both of these school subjects - walked around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: "Well, how long will it take to draw such a drawing, and after all, you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in letters ...".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (this is a piece from it you see from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

No obscure formulas
No messy calculations.
And without the letter-and-digit cobweb.

How is it? Have I removed some of your concerns yet?

Relax now - we won't start drawing right now. For starters, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know each other, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a base pattern?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast from your body. This is your personal print. Any item, sewn according to YOUR base pattern, will perfectly fit YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be stitched based on one single pattern... All-all models of dresses are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even in three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits your figure perfectly). Dress tailored to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual base pattern. See, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face oval.

All the other (any-lovable) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

This is how it works in the fashion world.

Once the fashion designer thought ...“And what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - the figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of opposite overlapping triangles (red outlines - the figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Nice? Nice! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a pattern basis. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just have a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we are already talking about a round yoke - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “And what if we give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs on the arm. " And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do that too. If you UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And according to what laws does it exist.

That is why I do not want to give you instructions stupidly to create a base pattern (like "read a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place of its intersection with line X with the next point ..." - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you bitch... I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Have learned to see what a simple drawing in essence hides behind a photograph of any dress, even intricately tailored.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes, we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. We will get acquainted with all its elements - we will find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It’s as if you’ve already drawn the base patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a pair of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as a thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us. "

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - the base pattern. We will tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple drawing - like a lattice for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a pair:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what these halves are for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo black and white dress our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. That is to say - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in Potnov's language the halves are called “shelves”. We will draw these very front and back shelves today. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: Tuck and ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce.

So, meet - PRIMA

When drawing the base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and the size armhole that suits you - when the armhole does not pull or dig into the arm.

That is, the base pattern contains minimum size of armholes permissible... You can simulate the armhole of your choice, of any configuration. But your fancy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole on the basis of the pattern - these are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not step.

Your model armhole can be as large as you want - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

DUTS ON BACK - Shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the darts of the back - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don't see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don't have it either. Because for convenience and beauty - this dart is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra tissue trimmed in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is being sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn.

Also darts are optional if you are sewing from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Let's get to know ... HALF DRUTS

Oh, you can write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain more clearly - what it is for and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought ... and came up with it.

The fact is that a woman has a breast.))) That is, in front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. A dart on the front shoulder gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in the pictures. How does this happen.

For example - we have a flat piece of fabric, and we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a dart on it. For example - this flat circle made of cardboard, with the help of a dart, will now become convex.

Here's how the brisket tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the breast dart the tip of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in the store, which was somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress was directed with its edge by the tops of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut for your breast shape at the factory.

But that's not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this breast dart is located not on shoulder- a on the side just below the armpit... This is for beauty. The dart on the shoulder is more striking, and from the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest dart from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Or else there will be ... We continue to walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

BREAST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We will sew it with you. Do not even hesitate)

The chest line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate on it when drawing a base pattern, because:

We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the back on the chest line.
We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the front before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
We know that the shoulder dart is in front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it when we start drawing. And now I just want you to find out that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letters and numbers).

As you can see - there is a lot of everything !! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO FURTHER - WITH A BASIS PATTERN? - you ask

And we will begin to sew on the TOP pattern. It is tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not dresses immediately?" I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle So to be continued)))

Successful sewing!

Developing the theme of building patterns for overweight women , we offer another option for building the basis of the dress. If in the first version we were guided by figures of medium splendor and, as an example, we built a pattern for, then in this section we will pay attention to ladies with more attractive shapes and, as an example, we will build the basis of a dress for size 60 semi-adjacent silhouette. This technique, like any other, does not dictate any restrictions, but only recommends itself for use in cases where a woman's chest girth authoritatively declares itself with its 120 centimeters or more.

To build a pattern drawing, you must take the following measurements:

Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen that can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.

It is good if the person you are taking measurements is wearing a thin dress, or better - only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand upright, without tension, i.e. maintain your usual posture. This is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees herself in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements it can distort the real state of affairs. And a well-fitting dress for fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.

Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed with measurements.

For example, we took measurements corresponding to size 60 and when building all calculations will be based on the measurements shown in the table below.

Be careful, in all formulas you substitute their values.

The experience of using this technique for constructing patterns suggests that an excellent result is easy to achieve on one condition: you need to accurately and diligently take measurements. The result of all further work depends on this.

*Name of measurements and legend*	cm	*Taking measurements*
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Гпр)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the horizontal, drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the bulge of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be applied to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the measuring tape should go over the ruler.
Back width (Shs)		Measured horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Semi-girth of the neck (US)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebra, and in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Half-girth of the chest 1st (CrI)		The measuring tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front of the base of the chest.
Semi-girth of the chest 2nd (CrII)		The measuring tape runs horizontally from the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, from the front along the protruding points of the chest.
The size of the groove solution (Vrv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist girth (St)		Measured horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hip (Sat)		Measured horizontally, from behind along the protruding points of the buttocks, from the front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Sprout height (Bp)		Measured along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (VPS)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole width (Spr)		Measure horizontally at hand: from the junction of the arm with the body from the back to the junction of the arm with the trunk from the front. Can be calculated using a ruler placed horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (dB)		Measured from the back from the upper edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (dp)		Measure across the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point where the arm meets the shoulder.
Breast height (Bg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front shoulder height (Vpp)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (Dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measured horizontally between the most prominent points of the chest.
Front width (Shp)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the angles of the armpits.
Width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ШпII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the angles of the armpits at the most prominent points of the chest.
Sleeve length (Dr)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve to elbow (drl)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm girth (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper arm (armpits).
Wrist (hand) girth Oz		Measured by the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest CrII, to the measurement of the half-girth of the thighs Sb - 3 cm and to the measurement of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

SEMI-FIT DRESS.

Back.

We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with apex at a point R (fig. 1).

Dress length.

From point R put down the measured length of the dress Di(102 cm) and put a point N. (fig. 1).

Fig. 1

Armhole depth.

From point R put down the measured depth of the armhole Gpr (23cm) and put a point G.

Fig. 2

Back length to waist.

From point R down we put the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist Dst (40cm) and put a point T.

Fig. 3

The length of the dress is to the hip line.

From point T down is usually postponed 18 - 20cm... We'll take the average 19cm and put an end B.

From points G, T, B and N to the left we draw horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Fig. 4

The middle line of the back.

From point R set aside to the left 1cm and put a point P1 (back bevel). Section WG divide in half and denote the middle with a letter L. Points Р1 and L T set aside to the left 1.5cm and put a point T1.

Points G, T1 and B connect with a smooth curve, as shown in Fig. 5.

Fig. 5

Back width.

From point G to the left we put aside the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs a plus 0.5cm (increase for free fit) and put a point G1:

GG1 = 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm.

Through point D1 up and down we draw a vertical line, at the intersection with the waist line we put a point T2.

Fig. 6

Distance to the side line (to the side seam).

From point D1 set aside to the left 1/2 armhole width Spr (14cm) minus 1cm and put a point G2:

D1G2 = 14: 2-1 = 6cm.

The distance to the side line may vary, it depends on the shape and style. If a figure with a protruding belly, then the lateral line is located closer to the back, and if a figure with protruding buttocks, then closer to the front. And, of course, the sideline can be in the middle of the armhole.

From point G2 down we draw a vertical line to the line of the hips and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put dots T3 and B1.

Fig. 7

From point Р1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) a plus 1cm and put a point P2:

Р1Р2 = 21: 3 + 1 = 8cm.

Fig. 8

From point P2 upward we postpone the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout BP (42cm) and back length to waist Dst (40cm) and put a point P3:

P2P3= 42-40 = 2cm.

Points P3 and Р1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 9

From point T2 put the measured back shoulder height measured upwards Vps (36 With m) and put a point P.

Fig. 10

Auxiliary point for the design of the armhole.

From point D1 set aside 1/3 of the segment up PG1 and put a point O... From point O with a compass through a point P, draw an arc.

Fig. 11

Shoulder length.

From point P3 compass (radius equal to taken measurement shoulder length plus 2.5 cm on the groove) we make a mark on the previously constructed arc and put a point P1:

Р3П1= 13.5 + 2.5 = 16cm.

Points P3 and P1 connect with a straight line.

We draw the line of the armhole of the back.

Points P1, O and G2 fig. 12.

Fig. 12

Along the line R3P1, o t point P3 set aside to the left 1/3 measured shoulder length and put a point V:

Р3В= 13.5: 3 = 4.5cm.

From point V down parallel to the line RL draw a straight line length 9cm and put a point IN 1.

Fig. 13

From point V set aside to the left 2.5cm and put a point IN 2. From point IN 1 through the point IN 2 draw a line length 9cm and put a point AT 3.

Point AT 3 connect with point P1.

Fig. 14

From point T3 set aside to the right 2cm and put a point T4, which we connect to the point G2.

Fig. 15

From point T4 postpone up 1cm and put a point T5. Points T5 and T1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 16

From point B1 to the left we set aside half the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the hips Sat and the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII

B1B2= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm): 2 =65–64: 2 = 0.5cm.

And we put a point B2

Points T5, B2 connect with a smooth curve. From point B2 draw a vertical line down and put a point at the intersection with the bottom line H1. (This straight dress) ... You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress towards the bottom. How to do it see section Back bottom width fig. 18.

Fig. 17

From point D1 to the right we set aside 1/3 of the width of the back (7cm) and put a point G3(itdistance may vary). From point G3 down we draw a straight line and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips we set points accordingly T6 and B3. From point G3 put down 4cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3cm and put a point B4.

Fig. 18

Along the waist line from the point T6 to the left and to the right we put off by 1cm and put dots T7 and T8, which we connect with points AT 4 and B4.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

The construction of the back is completed.

From points G2, T3, B1 and H1 to the left we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom, we put on them about 50 cm and set the points accordingly G4, T9, B5 and H2.

Through these points we draw a vertical line up and down.

Fig. 21

G4G5 = 64-21,5- 14 = 28.5 cm.

Through point G5 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with the waist line we put a point T10.

We check the width of the front with the taken measurement, the width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ShpII)... The width of the front in the drawing should be greater than the measured measurement so that it does not turn out that the product is narrowed.

Fig. 22

From point G5 to the right we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Spr (14cm) a plus 1cmand put a point G6, from which we draw a vertical line down and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T11 and B6.

G5G6 = 14: 2 + 1 = 8cm

Fig. 23

From point T9 upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (47cm) and put a point P4. From point P4. draw a horizontal line to the right.

Fig. 24

From point P4 set aside to the right 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P5:

Р4Р5 = 21: 3 + 1 = 8cm.

Fig. 25

From point P4 put down 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) a plus 1.5 cm and put a point P6:

Р4Р6 = 21: 3 + 1.5 = 8.5cm.

We connect points P5 and P6 with a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a point О1. From point О1 set aside at right angles 1.5cm and put a point O2.

Points P5, O2and P6 connect with a smooth curve and get the neckline.

Fig. 26

From point P5 set aside to the right 1/3 measured shoulder length DPL (13.5) and put the point P7:

Р5Р7 = 13.5: 3 = 4.5 cm.

Fig. 27

From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (12 cm) and put a point G7... Points P7 and G7 connect.

Fig. 28

From point P7 put down 1cm and put a point P2. Points P5 and P2 connect.

Fig. 29

From point P7, we put down the taken measurement of chest height Vg (33cm) and put a point Ts.

Fig. 30

From point C postpone up 2.5cm and put a point C 1.

Fig. 31

From point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the tuck solution Vrv (14cm) and put a point Have.

From point C through the point Have draw an arc to the right .

Fig. 32

UU1= 60 - 53 = 7cm.

It is convenient to do this construction with a compass. To do this, draw an arc from point Y with a radius of 7cm to the intersection with the previously constructed arc.

At the intersection, we put a point Y1.

From point C 1 through the point Y1 draw a straight line on which we lay off a segment equal to the segment Ts1P2, and put a point P3:

Ts1P3 = Ts1P2.

Fig. 33

On a straight line T10G5, extending it upwards, postpone the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35.5) and put a point P4.

Fig. 34

From point G5 postpone up 1/4 segment G5P4(4.65cm) and put a point O3. Dot O3 is an check mark when stitching the sleeves into the armhole. From point O3 with a compass through a point P4 to the right, draw an arc with a radius O3 P4.

Fig. 35

From point P3 draw an arc with a radius equal to: the measured shoulder length Dpl(13.5cm) minus distance R5P2 (4.5cm) before intersecting with a previously constructed arc. At the intersection, we put a point P5.

P3P5 = 13.5-4.5 = 9cm.

Points P3 and P5 connect straight .

Fig. 36

Points P5, O3 and G6 connect with a smooth curve as shown in fig. 37.

Side line.

From point T11 set aside to the left 1.5cm and put a point T12. Points T12 and G6 connect.

Fig. 37

From point T12 postpone up 1cm and put a point T13. Points T13 and T9 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 38

B6B7= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm): 2 =65–64: 2 = 0.5cm, and put a point B7:

Points T13 and B7 connect with a smooth curve. From point B7, draw a vertical line down and put a point at the intersection with the bottom line H3.

From point H2 put down 2cm and put a point H4.

Points H4 andH3 we connect with a smooth curve, thus we draw up the bottom line (This is a straight dress).

You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress towards the bottom. How to do this, see the section "Width of the bottom of the front" Fig. 39.

Fig. 39

Undercut construction.

Section G5G7 halve and dot G8, from which we draw a straight line down and at the intersection with horizontal lines we put points T14 and B8.

From point G8 put down 6cm, and from the point B8 up - 3 cm and put dots AT 5 and B9. From point T14 to the right and to the left we put off by 1.25cm and put dots T15 and T16, which we connect with points AT 5 and B9.

Fig. 40

For full figures, starting from size 60 and above, it is necessary to draw on the pattern front deflection (retract) line... To do this, from the point B5 set aside to the left 1-1.5cm (depending on the bulge of the abdomen) and put a point B10... Points P6 and B10 we connect a straight line, extending it to the bottom line. The drawn line is the middle of the front.

Fig. 41

Construction completed.

But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay particular attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If upon checking you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (exactly at the waist), they can be easily eliminated by decreasing or increasing the solution of the darts along the waist line.

Fig. 42

This is a drawing of a pattern for the basis of a dress - the basis for creating a wide variety of models. Before embarking on modeling, you need to check the pattern, "plant" it on the figure, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after you are fully confident that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

I sincerely wish you success!

Developing the theme of building patterns for obese women, we offer another option for building the basis of the dress. If in the first version we were guided by figures of medium splendor and, as an example, we built a pattern for, then in this section we will pay attention to ladies with more attractive shapes and, as an example, we will build the basis of a dress for size 60 semi-adjacent silhouette. This technique, like any other, does not dictate any restrictions, but only recommends itself for use in cases where a woman's chest girth authoritatively declares itself with its 120 centimeters or more.

To build a pattern drawing, you must take the following measurements:

To take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when tilting the head, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen that can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.

For example, we took measurements corresponding to size 60 and when building all calculations will be based on the measurements shown in the table below.

Be careful, in all formulas you substitute their values.

*Name of measurements and symbols*	cm	*Taking measurements*
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Гпр)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the horizontal, drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the bulge of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be applied to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the measuring tape should go over the ruler.
Back width (Shs)		Measured horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Semi-girth of the neck (US)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebra, and in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Half-girth of the chest 1st (CrI)		The measuring tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front of the base of the chest.
Semi-girth of the chest 2nd (CrII)		The measuring tape runs horizontally from the back along the protruding points of the shoulder blades, from the front along the protruding points of the chest.
The size of the groove solution (Vrv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist girth (St)		Measured horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hip (Sat)		Measured horizontally, from behind along the protruding points of the buttocks, from the front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Sprout height (Bp)		Measured along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (VPS)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole width (Spr)		Measure horizontally at hand: from the junction of the arm with the body from the back to the junction of the arm with the trunk from the front. Can be calculated using a ruler placed horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (dB)		Measured from the back from the upper edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (dp)		Measure across the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point where the arm meets the shoulder.
Breast height (Bg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front shoulder height (Vpp)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (Dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measured horizontally between the most prominent points of the chest.
Front width (Shp)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the angles of the armpits.
Width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ШпII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the angles of the armpits at the most prominent points of the chest.
Sleeve length (Dr)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve to elbow (drl)		Measured from where the arm meets the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm girth (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper arm (armpits).
Wrist (hand) girth Oz		Measured by the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest CrII, to the measurement of the half-girth of the thighs Sb - 3 cm and to the measurement of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

SEMI-FIT DRESS... Size 60

Back .

We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with apex at a point R (fig. 1).
Dress length.
From point R put down the measured length of the dress Di(102 cm) and put a point N. (fig. 1).

Fig. 1

Armhole depth. From point R put down the measured depth of the armhole Gpr (23cm) and put a point G.

Fig. 2

Back length to waist. From point R down we put the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist Dst (40cm) and put a point T.

Fig. 3

The length of the dress is to the hip line. From point T down is usually postponed 18 - 20cm... We'll take the average 19cm and put an end B... From points G, T, B and N to the left we draw horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Fig. 4

The middle line of the back. From point R set aside to the left 1cm and put a point P1 (back bevel). Section WG divide in half and denote the middle with a letter L. Points Р1 and L T set aside to the left 1.5cm and put a point T1... Points G, T1 and B connect with a smooth curve, as shown in Fig. 5.

Fig. 5

Back width. From point G to the left we put aside the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs a plus 0.5cm (increase for free fit) and put a point G1:
GG1 = 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm.
Through point D1 up and down we draw a vertical line, at the intersection with the waist line we put a point T2.

Fig. 6

Distance to the side line (to the side seam). From point D1 set aside to the left 1/2 armhole width Spr (14cm) minus 1cm and put a point G2:
D1G2 = 14: 2-1 = 6cm.
The distance to the side line may vary, it depends on the shape and style. If a figure with a protruding belly, then the lateral line is located closer to the back, and if a figure with protruding buttocks, then closer to the front. And, of course, the sideline can be in the middle of the armhole.
From point G2 down we draw a vertical line to the line of the hips and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put dots T3 and B1.

Fig. 7

From point Р1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) a plus 1cm and put a point P2:
Р1Р2 = 21: 3 + 1 = 8cm.

Fig. 8

From point P2 upward we postpone the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout BP (42cm) and back length to waist Dst (40cm) and put a point P3:
P2P3= 42-40 = 2cm.
Points P3 and Р1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 9

From point T2 put the measured back shoulder height measured upwards Vps (36 With m) and put a point P.

Fig. 10

Auxiliary point for the design of the armhole. From point D1 set aside 1/3 of the segment up PG1 and put a point O... From point O with a compass through a point P, draw an arc.

Fig. 11

Shoulder length. From point P3 with a compass (radius equal to the measured shoulder length plus 2.5 cm on the groove) we make a mark on the previously constructed arc and put a point P1:
Р3П1= 13.5 + 2.5 = 16cm.
Points P3 and P1 connect with a straight line.

We draw the line of the armhole of the back. Points P1, O and G2 fig. 12.

Fig. 12

Along the line R3P1, o t point P3 set aside to the left 1/3 measured shoulder length and put a point V:
Р3В= 13.5: 3 = 4.5cm.
From point V down parallel to the line RL draw a straight line length 9cm and put a point IN 1.

Fig. 13

From point V set aside to the left 2.5cm and put a point IN 2. From point IN 1 through the point IN 2 draw a line length 9cm and put a point AT 3. Point AT 3 connect with point P1.

Fig. 14

From point T3 set aside to the right 2cm and put a point T4, which we connect to the point G2.

Fig. 15

From point T4 postpone up 1cm and put a point T5. Points T5 and T1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 16

From point B1 to the left we set aside half the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the hips Sat and the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII
B1B2= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm): 2 =65–64: 2 = 0.5cm. And we put a point B2

Points T5, B2 connect with a smooth curve. From point B2 draw a vertical line down and put a point at the intersection with the bottom line H1. (This is a straight dress)... You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress towards the bottom. How to do it see pattern for size 54 section Back bottom width fig. 18.

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Along the waist line from the point T6 to the left and to the right we put off by 1cm and put dots T7 and T8, which we connect with points AT 4 and B4.

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

The construction of the back is completed.

From points G2, T3, B1 and H1 to the left we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom, we put on them about 50 cm and set the points accordingly G4, T9, B5 and H2... Through these points we draw a vertical line up and down.

Fig. 21

From point G4 to the right we postpone the distance that we get as a result of the following calculation: the taken measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII(60cm) a plus 4cm for a free fit, minus the width of the back according to the drawing (21.5 cm) and minus the measured width of the armhole Spr (14 cm) put a point G5:
G4G5 = 64-21,5- 14 = 28.5 cm.
Through point G5 down we draw a vertical line and at the intersection of it with the waist line we put a point T10.
We check the width of the front with the taken measurement, the width of the front on the protruding points of the chest (ShpII)... The width of the front in the drawing should be greater than the measured measurement so that it does not turn out that the product is narrowed.

Fig. 22

Fig. 23

From point T9 upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (47cm) and put a point P4. From point P4. draw a horizontal line to the right.

Fig. 24

From point P4 set aside to the right 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P5:
Р4Р5 = 21: 3 + 1 = 8cm.

Fig. 25

From point P4 put down 1/3 half-girth of the neck Ssh (21cm) a plus 1.5 cm and put a point P6:
Р4Р6 = 21: 3 + 1.5 = 8.5cm.
We connect points P5 and P6 with a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a point О1. From point О1 set aside at right angles 1.5cm and put a point O2. Points P5, O2and P6 connect with a smooth curve and get the neckline.

Fig. 26

From point P5 set aside to the right 1/3 measured shoulder length DPL (13.5) and put the point P7:
Р5Р7 = 13.5: 3 = 4.5 cm.

Fig. 27

From point G4 to the right we put off the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (12 cm) and put a point G7... Points P7 and G7 connect.

Fig. 28

From point P7 put down 1cm and put a point P2. Points P5 and P2 connect.

Fig. 29

From point P7, we put down the taken measurement of chest height Vg (33cm) and put a point Ts.

Fig. 30

From point C postpone up 2.5cm and put a point C 1.

Fig. 31

From point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the tuck solution Vrv (14cm) and put a point Have... From point C through the point Have draw an arc to the right .

Fig. 32

From point Have along the drawn arc we postpone the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (60cm) minus the half-girth of the chest first CrI (53cm) put a point Y1 .
UU1= 60 - 53 = 7cm.
It is convenient to do this construction with a compass. To do this, draw an arc from point Y with a radius of 7cm to the intersection with the previously constructed arc.
At the intersection, we put a point Y1.
From point C 1 through the point Y1 draw a straight line on which we lay off a segment equal to the segment Ts1P2, and put a point P3:
Ts1P3 = Ts1P2.

Fig. 33

On a straight line T10G5, extending it upwards, postpone the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35.5) and put a point P4.

Fig. 34

Fig. 35

Fig. 36

Points P5, O3 and G6 connect with a smooth curve as shown in fig. 37.
Side line. From point T11 set aside to the left 1.5cm and put a point T12. Points T12 and G6 connect.

Fig. 37

From point T12 postpone up 1cm and put a point T13. Points T13 and T9 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig. 38

From point B6 to the right we set aside half the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the hips Sat and the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII with allowances for free fit:
B6B7= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm): 2 =65–64: 2 = 0.5cm, and put a point B7:
Points T13 and B7 connect with a smooth curve. From point B7, draw a vertical line down and put a point at the intersection with the bottom line H3... From point H2 put down 2cm and put a point H4... Points H4 andH3 we connect with a smooth curve, thus we draw up the bottom line (This is a straight dress)... You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress towards the bottom. How to do this, see the section "Width of the bottom of the front" Fig. 39.

Fig. 39

Undercut construction. Section G5G7 halve and dot G8, from which we draw a straight line down and at the intersection with horizontal lines we put points T14 and B8... From point G8 put down 6cm, and from the point B8 up - 3 cm and put dots AT 5 and B9.
From point T14 to the right and to the left we put off by 1.25cm and put dots T15 and T16, which we connect with points AT 5 and B9.

Fig. 40

Fig. 41

Construction completed... But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay particular attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If upon checking you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (exactly at the waist), they can be easily eliminated by decreasing or increasing the solution of the darts along the waist line.

Fig. 42

I sincerely wish you success!

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Today we will learn how to model two of them: a dress and a jacket:

Dress pattern

Let's take a close look at the photo of the dress, the pattern of which we have to make. Detachable under the bust, with 7/8 sleeves and a wide skirt that is gathered at the junction with the bodice. The bottom of the sleeve is gathered with a drawstring with an elastic band or braid. The neck is widened, round, finished with an oblique inlay. Bust dart from the side seam under the armhole. The pockets are processed on the skirt - the entrance to the pockets can be made in the side seam, or it can be “in the frame”. Because loose dress - no fastener required. The fabric for sewing is linen, although woolen crepe and blended fabrics for the cold season can be used if desired.

To model the model, we needIt can be easily generated on our website according to your own individual measurements. It's very easy and fast, just enter your measurements into the form, the online will do the rest for you. You can print on any printer, even at home, or save to a flash card and print in a copy center. Technological additions to the freedom of fitting are already included in the construction and have the minimum necessary values. We will adjust the degree of fitting of our model a little later in the modeling process by retracting the side seams. So, here's what we got.

We print it on any printer and cut it out. We will ignore the darts at the waist. Then we model on paper.

Step 1. We straighten the side seams, moving them a little to the side for more volume in the waist area and even higher, under the armhole. We extend the future dress pattern, in accordance with the sketch or at your request.

Step 2. Raise the waistline 5 cm up. Transfer the bust dart to the side seam under the armhole.

Step 3. Expand and deepen the neckline. Cut off the bodice from the skirt on the details of the pattern of the back and front, then the modeling will take place on the details of the skirt.

Step 4. On the details of the pattern of the skirt, outline the longitudinal lines along which to cut and move the details apart to increase the volume of the skirt. On the front part of the skirt panel, mark the location of the pocket and the pattern of the burlap itself. The entrance to the pocket is located in the side seam and starts 12 cm down from the line of joining the skirt to the bodice detail, see fig.

Step 5. Sleeve modeling. Extend the sleeve along the bottom to the width of the sleeve under the armhole, cut in the middle along, spread according to the scheme so that the pattern is trapezoidal (the sleeve at the bottom is wider than under the armhole). Correct the bottom line of the slightly curved curve. The bottom of the sleeves in the dress is gathered with an elastic band.

The dress pattern is ready. Sew - boast on our)

Jacket pattern

Jacket without lining, made of dense fabric such as loden, boiled jersey or any other similar fabric with non-crumbling cuts. One-piece sleeve, apache collar, without fasteners, patch pockets with flaps on the shelf.

For modeling we will use, which you can also generate using our website. The generator is automatically loaded with allowances for free fit.

Step 1. To begin with, we draw auxiliary lines from the highest points of the neck of the front and back through points lying 2 cm above the end points of the shoulder, with a length equal to the length of the sleeve + shoulder length. Mark the deepening of the armholes by 4-5 cm with transverse marks. see fig.

Step 2. Draw oblique lines of the upper cuts of the sleeves from the points raising the shoulder line. see fig. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the girth of the wrist + an increase in freedom (7-10 cm). Design the lower cuts of the sleeves, passing into the side seams, taking into account the points of the deepening of the armholes, according to the figure.

Step 3. Let's widen and deepen the neck. Let's draw the line of the side parallel to the midline of the shelf at a distance of 6 cm.

Step 4. Creation of an "apache" collar.

Through the highest point and the middle point (lying at the intersection of the midline of the shelf and the neckline), draw an auxiliary straight line, extend it up and on it lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the back. Draw this segment with a curved line. This is the line where the collar is sewn into the neck of the back. The floor is at a right angle to it, to the right, set aside the collar width of 8-9 cm and connect with a curved convex-concave line, see fig., With a point limiting the collar "apache". According to the sketch / photo of the model, the end of the collar lies at the level of the armhole depth, and its width is approximately 20-25 cm. For the most accurate determination, we advise you to make a mock-up of inexpensive fabric.

Step 5. Build a patch pocket.

The pattern of the original jacket is ready. Good luck with your sewing! Be beautiful!