Getting started sewing clothes, first of all, you need to take measurements, on the basis of which you can then build a drawing and make a pattern of the appropriate size. Taking measurements is the first step in building a product drawing. This is a very important part of the job. If you make a mistake when taking measurements, then the subsequent processes - cutting, sewing and other work, will never give good results... The good fit of the product on the figure, its fit depends on how correctly and accurately the measurements will be taken from the figure.
Also, when taking measurements from the figure, it is necessary to take into account.
In order to obtain accurate dimensional signs of a human figure, the following conditions must be observed:
1. The person being measured should stand freely, calmly, without tension, without changing his usual posture.
In this case, the hands should be lowered, the heels together, the distance between the toes of the legs is 15-20 cm. It is desirable that the person being measured sees himself in a full-length mirror. This is necessary so that the customer has the opportunity to see the posture of his body, as well as the ability to check the correctness of the previously agreed lengths during measurements: the length of the product, the sleeves. Since these measurements, as well as the silhouette and shape of the details, are negotiated immediately, before taking measurements.
2. The person to be measured should be dressed in underwear or in a light, thin dress without sleeves, without large layers of fabric that interfere with measurement.
3. A good fit of the product on the figure largely depends on the exact position of the waist line. After all, the waist line is the border between the upper and lower parts of the product.
After girdling the waist, the clothes on the measured one are straightened, pulled below the elastic in the vertical direction so that the upper part of the figure acquires, as it were, a sculptural shape, and then the horizontal position of the elastic is verified.
4. In order to more accurately measure the figure, it is necessary to outline the position of the main points on it:
Pins mark the center of the chest (nipple points) and measure the chest line from the floor with a measuring tape, and then transfer this line to the back. Check that the chest line is parallel to the floor;
With a pencil (if the measurements are taken on linen), they mark: the cervical point (7th cervical vertebra), the point of the base of the neck, the direction of the shoulder, the shoulder point.
5. All length measurements are taken and recorded in full. Measurements of circumference and width are taken completely, and recorded at half size, with the exception of measurements: arm circumference (OP), hand circumference (OK), wrist circumference (W), upper leg and knee circumference (OH, OK).
6. Measure the figure to obtain measurements should be with the full fit of the measuring tape without taking into account the allowances for loose fit, since allowances for free fitting will be provided when building a design drawing, depending on the silhouette, fabric and purpose of the product.
Basic measurements for shoulder garments
SS - neck semicircle - measurements are taken at the base of the neck. The measuring tape at the back passes its lower edge over the cervical point (7th cervical vertebra); on the side - at the base of the neck; in front it closes over the jugular notch. It is recorded at half size.
On the side and in front, the tape should run along the base of the neck, close over the jugular cavity. When taking this measurement, you should pay attention to the shape and position of the neck. The length of the neck is taken into account when choosing a product model; the shape and fat deposition are taken into account in the design when determining the width and depth of the neck. The setting of the neck affects the design of the neckline in the products.
СГ1 - the first semicircle of the chest - measure the full girth of the chest. The measuring tape should run horizontally around the torso at the level of the armpits through the prominent points of the breasts and close in front on the right side of the chest. It is recorded at half size.
SG2 - second chest semicircle (above the chest) - measured around the body. From the side of the back, the centimeter tape is located horizontally along the lower corners of the shoulder blades, touching its upper edge to the rear corners of the armpits, then along the armpits. From the front, the tape should run over the base of the breasts and close on the right side of the chest. It is recorded at half size.
URV - tuck solution level - is removed simultaneously with the SG2 measurement. Measurements are taken from the highest right point of the breast to a centimeter tape above the breast (or to the line of the base of the breast at the top). Completely recorded.
ST - waist semicircle - measurement is carried out at the narrowest point of the body. The measuring tape should run horizontally. It is recorded at half size.
SB - thigh semicircle - the measurement is carried out strictly horizontally around the thighs along the most protruding parts of the buttocks, closing the measuring tape on the right side of the body. It is recorded at half size.
If the SB measurement must be made taking into account the abdominal protrusion, then the position of the measuring tape is the same as above, only in front it should pass along a flexible plate (ruler) applied vertically to the abdomen to take into account the abdominal protrusion.
Some women have two hip girths - upper and lower, and the lower girth is larger than the upper one and is not fixed by the usual measurement. To reveal the lower increased girth, the measuring tape is clamped at the level of the upper measurement and the measuring tape is lowered in a circular motion. If it does not go down, the tape is lowered to the required amount and thus the second lower girth is fixed. Write these measurements side by side and measure the length to the bottom girth. When constructing a drawing, these features are taken into account.
LH - chest line - is measured from the marked point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the chest line marked on the back (up to a centimeter tape when measuring SG1). The tape should run parallel to the spine.
DTS - the length of the waist of the back - is taken simultaneously with the measurement of the LH along the back from the intended point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the braid encircling the waist (the most protruding part of the shoulder blade is used). The tape should run parallel to the spine. If the person to be measured has different heights of the shoulder blades, then the measurement is made on the higher side of the back.
DIz - the length of the product - is measured simultaneously with the measurements of LH and DTS from the intended point of the base of the neck along the back through the bulge of the shoulder blades, without tearing off the measuring tape to the desired length. The centimeter tape lies strictly vertically. With the left hand, the tape is held at the waist, and the length of the product is determined with the right hand.
LL - the line of the shoulder blades - is measured from the point of the base of the neck to the level of the most convex part of the shoulder blades (they are guided by the level between the rear angles of the armpits, that is, the height where we will measure the width of the back). Make sure that the measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
SHS - back width - this measure is taken from the articulation of one arm with the body to the articulation of the other arm with the body through the bulge of the shoulder blades. The measuring tape should lie horizontally. Write down this measurement at half size.
When taking measurements of the AL, take the widest part of the back. At the same time, attention is paid to the location of the shoulder blades and the curvature of the back, which is taken into account when constructing the midline of the back and darts on the shoulder blades. This measurement must be especially accurate. Do not tuck the measuring tape under the armpits.
NPS - shoulder back tilt - is measured from the intended shoulder point (the final, lowest point of the shoulder) through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the center of the back at the waist (or to the point of intersection of the spine with the waist line). If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is made on the higher shoulder or the height of both shoulders is measured. The difference in measurements of the right and left sides is eliminated during the manufacture of the product.
SPR - armhole width - the measurement is carried out using a ruler at the level of the rear angles of the armpits with a freely lowered arm. That is, this is the distance between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front and rear angles of the armpits.
DB - side length - the measurement is carried out from the back from the waist line in a straight line to the upper edge of the ruler applied to the posterior corner of the armpit. From the obtained value, subtract 1.5-2-3cm (depending on the circumference of the arm).
VG - chest height- is removed from the intended point of the base of the neck to the center of the chest. Completely recorded.
Taking this measurement, attention is paid to the shape of the linen and the correct position of the center of the chest is determined so that the position of the dart does not have to be changed in the product. For a figure with a raised chest, the center is underestimated by 0.5-1 cm. This is especially important in products made of rigid fabric.
An accident - the length of the front waist - is taken simultaneously with the VG measurement from the intended point of the base of the neck through the center of the breast to the horizontal (elastic) at the waist. Completely recorded.
NPT - the slope of the shoulder in front - is measured from the intended shoulder point (middle of the shoulder joint) to the highest point of the breast. Completely recorded.
If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is carried out on the higher shoulder or on the right and left sides separately.
OP - arm circumference - the measurement is carried out with a strictly lowered arm around the arm perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder so that the upper edge touches the posterior corner of the armpit. The tape should close to the outside of the hand. Completely recorded.
The measurement is necessary to determine the width of the armhole and the width of the sleeve at the top. With very full hand it is necessary to take this circumstance into account when constructing the sleeve and distributing the fit over the bend.
SHG1 - front (chest) width first- the measurement is carried out through the protruding points of the mammary glands in the horizontal plane between the imaginary verticals drawn down from the front angles of the armpits (approximately at a distance of 1.2-1.5 cm from the arm). It is recorded at half size.
SHG2 - width of the front (chest) second- the measurement is carried out in a horizontal plane above the bases of the mammary glands between the anterior angles of the armpits. It is recorded at half size.
RC - the distance between the centers of the mammary glands- measured between the most prominent points of the mammary glands. The measuring tape should lie horizontally. Recorded at half size
DPL - shoulder length - the measurement is carried out from the point of the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder oculus to the shoulder point. Completely recorded.
DR - sleeve length- the measurement is carried out from the shoulder point with the arm freely lowered (it is slightly bent) to the desired length, depending on the type of product.
DL - length to the elbow- is removed simultaneously with the measurement of the length of the sleeve to the ulna.
OK - the circumference of the brush- measured at the widest point of the hand with fingers slightly extended. Completely recorded.
OZ - wrist circumference- the measurement is made perpendicular to the axis of the forearm along the wrist joint through the head of the radius bone. The measuring tape should close on the outside of your hand.
Found on the website pokroyka.ru
Hello today, we are going to talk about how to measure for a sewing pattern. I have divided this topic into two articles. In the first, we will study a list of measures that are familiar to all beginners from school.
There are enough of them to build a blueprint, simple and primitive. On a simple figure, clothes built according to such drawings will fit well, but with a non-standard physique, these measurements will not be enough, additional ones are needed, we will talk about them in the next post.
While I want to say that we take all measurements on a figure dressed only in underwear, any clothing will add extra centimeters to you, and stretch, on the contrary, will decrease it, and this is not good, since the product may end up being small.
Taking basic measurements from the figure
No construction of base patterns is possible without removing the girths, so we will start with them, since they determine the size of any product, be it a dress, skirt or blouse. Many publications advise to write them down in half, I still write the full, it's so convenient for me.
Neck girth (Osh)
Points along which the measuring tape is laid:
- The back is the seventh cervical vertebra, the most prominent vertebra near the neck.
- The lateral parts are the base of the neck and the beginning of the shoulders.
- In front there is a jugular cavity, it is easy to feel it with your hands, a centimeter joins on it.
Bust (Og)
In order to build a drawing, you need to make two such measurements. Both of them begin to be filmed from the back. The line passes through the protruding shoulder blades, goes under the arms through the armpits. If there are fat deposits in this place, they must be taken into account.
But ahead the measurements diverge:
Chest circumference 2 - the line runs along the most prominent points of the chest, the measuring tape closes in the middle (blue segment).
Chest circumference 3 - the measurement passes over the chest and also closes in the middle (green line).
Waist (From)
Before you take this measurement, you need to decide on the location of your waist. To do this, take any lace and tie it around your figure. The waist is rarely strictly horizontal, quite often in front and behind it is at different heights.
Your task is to determine its location. Arrange the lace as you feel comfortable, wherever you wear belt products... I'm not talking about thighs.
And only at the end of all these manipulations, we measure the waist circumference, which will pass strictly along the lace.
Hip girth (Ob)
This measurement is taken as follows:
- Through the most prominent points of the buttocks.
- Strictly horizontal at the sides.
- And also exactly on the front, but taking into account the abdomen. To do this, we put a ruler vertically down under the measuring tape.
Girth of the arm (Op) and wrist (Oz)
These two measurements are taken strictly horizontally, while the hand is lowered. The measurement of the arm circumference is determined just below the armpit along its widest part - the green segment.
The girth of the wrist is measured at the wrist at the narrowest part of the arm - the blue segment. Now let's move on to measuring lengths.
Back length to waist (Dts1 and Dts2)
The first length of the back to the waist (green section) is removed from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace, which should still be at your waist line. There are figures in which it is difficult at first glance to determine where the seventh cervical vertebra is located. To find this point, be sure to put your head down, this is how you can easily find the most protruding vertebra.
The second length of the back to the waist (blue section) starts at the side of the base of the neck. This point will be the beginning of the shoulder seam, so make sure that it does not go forward or backward, but is in the middle. From it we go down vertically to the waist. Taking these measurements, it is important not to strain your back and not relax too much - you need a golden mean.
Front length to waist (Dtp)
We lay a measuring tape to the neck, but already in front, through the most prominent points of the chest, then down to the lace at the waist.
By the way, it would be correct and convenient for you to record more data on the Height of the chest during this measurement, I will tell you how to do this below.
Very often, for beginners, measurements of the lengths along the back and the shelf are inaccurate, which then will certainly negatively affect the sewn product. To test yourself, remove the reference value. To do this, lay a measuring tape from the waist of the back to the waist of the front over the shoulder and chest. Now add Dts2 and Dtp, if their sum coincides with the control measurement, then you did everything right, if not, you need to repeat everything from the beginning.
Breast height (Bg)
This measurement is one of the most difficult in its measurement - it must be quite accurate, so it is important to accurately determine the most prominent point of the chest. A novice craftsman can not always cope with this, so the sewn clothes will have grooves above or below the required point, which will ruin the whole appearance.
In this situation, I can advise the following, put on a bra that has grooves. Its end in the center of the chest will be your desired point. The measuring tape should lie from the base of the neck to the tip of the undercut. Trust me, this is how you measure this measurement perfectly.
Hip height (In troubles)
We measure the distance vertically along the side of the figure from the lace down to the hip line, which passes, I recall, through the most prominent points of the buttocks.
You can draw it mentally or also mark it out with a cord.
So, we have finished with the lengths, it remains to take all measurements horizontally, and start with the shoulder.
Shoulder width (Shp)
You already know what a point at the base of the neck is, it will be our starting point. Now you need to find the place where the shoulder meets the arm. This is very easy to do in thin girls, it is easy to determine by touch where the humerus ends, but in overweight women finding the right place is difficult. In this case, it is determined purely visually.
We connect two points with a centimeter - from the neck to the arm. We found the width of the shoulder.
Center of the chest (Cg)
To take this measurement, beginners will come to the rescue of the same bra with grooves. You measure from groove to groove, and you won't have any mistakes. The resulting figure is also proposed to be divided in half, but we agreed to write everything down in full size, we will share later.
Now it remains for us to consider the three most difficult dimensions.
Back width (Shs)
When removing this data, both beginners and experienced dressmakers make mistakes, but the reason for the error is not so much in them, as in the fact that the customer stood at first in one position, and was in another during the fitting. Visually, you will not always see it, hence the inaccuracies.
The fact is that this part of the body is very mobile, the value of the measure changes from the slightest movement of the hand, shoulder, bend of the spine. What to do in such a situation? For myself, I came up with three options for measuring one measurement, which the customer helps me to take into account the rack. Here's an example:
We have become even, we put our hands in front of the hips, thus, we imitate a slight stoop, that is, the body is relaxed. We measure the width of the back through the protruding points of the shoulder blades from the crease to the crease at the armpit.
Now we imitate the position when the person is standing at attention. We put our hands on the hips from behind, as far as the turn of the shoulders allows, do not strain. We measure all the same distance.
And the third option - hands on the sides, and again we remove the data. After that, we need to add two widths, with a stoop and with an inflection, we divide the resulting value in half, that is, we find the average figure. Ideally, it should coincide with the third dimension.
But it may be that these numbers do not match, then I still prefer to focus on the average found value.
For example: Shs (day) - 46 cm, Shs (overd.) - 36 cm, Shs (normal) - 41 cm
(46+36) /2 = 41
You see, in my case, the mean and the measurement coincided. This is how you can control this situation.
Chest width (Wd)
Just like the back, the width of the chest is very susceptible to the slightest movement, therefore we take all measurements in the same way as the previous measurements taken, but only this time above the chest. I'll just show you an example of a calculation.
Example: Wg (day) -31.5 cm, Wg (overt.) - 39 cm, Wg (normal) - 35 cm.
(39+31,5) / 2 = 35,25
As you can see, the error is minimal and can be ignored. I have not seen such a measurement method in any literature, but due to frequently made mistakes, which later affected sewing, I came up with such a scheme. She really helps me out.
Armhole width (Spr)
Before you get the data on the width of the armhole, you need to make a small device. Take a sheet of A4 paper, fold it four times along its length. Position his armpit horizontally. Now, on both sides of the hand, along the back and on the shelf, where the folds of the armpit are located, use a pencil or pen to put vertical marks.
You take a strip and measure the distance from one mark to another with a ruler - this is the width of your armhole.
Example: (Og3 - Shs (normal) - Shg (normal)) / 2 = (103 - 41 - 35) / 2 = 13.5.
Why are we dividing by two? Because there are two armholes, each of them will be 13.5 cm. You can use two options, and then compare with each other.
Well, we have taken the basic measurements, using them, it is already possible to sew the product, but a more accurate cut requires more information, and it will be in the next post.
In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to one very important rule. During work, the measuring tape should not tightly fit the figure, but a strong weakening is also unacceptable. You need to lay so that between the body and the centimeter can pass forefinger... That's all for today, I wish you good luck!
When the designation of measurements becomes clear, then you need to proceed to such an important section as taking measurements.
What measurements are needed for sewing? Or rather, to build a drawing?
For different bases drawings need different measurements.
They are divided into:
1. Measurements for a skirt (waist skirts, measurements for an apron)
2. Measurements for trousers
3. Measurements for the dress
Measurements for a dress mean not only a dress, but also products of a similar design (sundresses, etc.).
Dress measurements are perhaps the largest section of sewing measurements.
But it is not enough just to know them, they still need to be filmed correctly.
There are certain rules for taking measurements, which will be discussed below.
But I want to immediately clarify that it is so correct to take measurements for building drawings of structures according to EMKO (TSOTSHL).
Measurement rules:
1. Height ( R) - measured the vertical distance from the crown point to the floor.
2. Semi-girth of the neck ( SS) - measured with a measuring tape around the neck: behind the 7th cervical vertebra, in front - along the base of the neck to the jugular notch.
3. Semi-girth of the chest1 ( Cr1) - the measuring tape should pass from the back along the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits, in front - over the base of the mammary glands.
4. Semi-girth of the chest2 ( Cr2) - a centimeter passes from the back along the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits, in front - along the base of the mammary glands (protruding points).
5. Semi-girth of the chest3 ( Cr3) - measured horizontally around the body, through the protruding points of the mammary glands.
This measurement determines the size of the customer.
6. Semi-waist ( St) - measured around the body at the level of the waist line.
7. Half girth of the hips ( Sat) - measured horizontally from behind at the most prominent points of the buttocks in front, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
8. Chest width1 ( Wg1) - measured horizontally above the base of the mammary glands, between the verticals mentally drawn up from the front angles of the armpits.
9. Chest width2 ( Wg2) - measured horizontally through the protruding points of the mammary glands, between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front angles of the armpits.
10. Center of the chest ( Tsg) - measured between the protruding points of the mammary glands.
11. The distance from the back waistline to the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck ( Dts2) - measured from the waistline to the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck, parallel to the spine.
12. The distance from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line ( Dts) - measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the waist line.
Verification measure.
13. The distance from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the waist line in front ( Crash2) and chest height ( Br2) - are measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the waist line through the protruding points of the mammary glands, while fixing its position.
14. The distance from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the level of the rear angles of the armpits ( Vprz2) - is measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam parallel to the spine to the horizontal, passing at the level of the posterior angles of the armpits.
15. Shoulder height oblique ( Vpk) - measured from the point of intersection of the waist line with the spine to the end point of the projected shoulder seam at the back (the centimeter needs to be pulled).
16. Shoulder height oblique in front ( Vpkp2) - measured from the end point of the projected shoulder seam to the protruding point of the breast.
Verification measure.
17. Back width ( Shs) - the centimeter runs horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the posterior corners of the armpits.
18. Product length ( Di) - measured in the middle of the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the level of the desired length.
19. The width of the shoulder slope ( Shp) - is measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to its end point.
20. Sleeve length ( Dr) - is measured from the end point of the projected shoulder seam along the outer surface of the shoulder and forearm with a freely lowered arm, to the desired length (usually up to the 1st joint of the thumb).
21. Shoulder circumference ( Op) - measured with a freely lowered arm perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits.
22. Wrist circumference ( Ozap) - measured horizontally around the arm at the narrowest point.
23. Length from waist to floor in front ( Chipboard) - measured in the middle of the front.
24. Length from waist to floor at the side ( Dsb) - measured from the side to the floor.
25. Length from waist to floor in back ( DSZ) - measured in the middle of the back.
26. Shoulder length ( Dp) - measured from the projected shoulder endpoints through the 7th cervical vertebra.
Verification measure.
Because in the design process, half of the measurements are used for SSh, Cr1, Cr2, Cr3, St, Sat, Shg, Shg2, Shs, Dn - then these measurements are recorded in half value.
These are the basic measurements required to build drawings of shoulder products.
In order to make it more convenient to take measurements, you can make such a shoulder pad made of dense fabric. It can be sewn with approximate dimensions based on the drawing.
It is needed in order to be able to clearly fix the projected shoulder points.
Otherwise, when taking measurements, you will constantly get confused.
This can already be seen with experience, but at first it is better to make such a simple device.
Taking measurements is a very crucial stage. If the measurements are taken incorrectly, the drawing may turn out to be inaccurate.
Don't take measurements "hastily"!
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To tailor and sew a dress, blouse, skirt or trousers, you must have patterns for all the details that make up this product.
To obtain patterns, their drawings are built on paper. The existing methods for constructing drawings are quite diverse, but each of them is based on one or another measure, i.e. the main dimensions of the figure obtained by direct measurements.
Taking measurements is a very responsible process ... If at the same time mistakes are made and the product is sewn according to inaccurate measurements, it will never fit well on the figure. When taking measurements, it is necessary to pay attention to the structure of the figure of a given person, because various deviations from the accepted norms are possible. For figures with deviations from the norm, more measurements are taken than for a typical, proportional figure. The features of the physique must be taken into account already when choosing the style of the product, its optimal shape.
All measurements of the human figure can be divided into four groups:
Girths (neck, shoulder, wrist, chest, waist, hips);
Width (back, chest, shoulder);
Lengths (waist, arms);
Projection measurements (body position, shoulder height).
Measurements of the first three groups are made with a centimeter tape, and the fourth group - using a ruler system. The figure is measured by linen or light dress (without large layers of fabric). The person should be without shoes or in low-heeled shoes.
Body dimensions can vary significantly depending on the position of the person being measured, therefore all measurements should be made in a strictly defined position: the person being measured must stand straight, without tension, maintaining his usual posture. Quite often, stoop-shouldered people try to straighten up when measuring, and as a result, the measurements are inaccurate. The subject's arms should be lowered along the body, fingers extended; legs are straight at the knees, heels are together, toes are unfolded. The person should not change the posture during the measurement.
To accurately determine the measurements and related other measurements, you should establish a horizontal - the reference line. It is recommended to place it on the waist line, because the latter is easily fixed on the figure and connected to any point of it. To do this, a thin lace or elastic is tied at the waist, at one end of which there is a loop, and at the other - a hook. The cord (elastic band) is placed strictly horizontally at the thinnest place of the body above the pelvic bones. The correct position of the cord is checked by measuring the distance from its upper edge to the floor from the back and front.
To determine the balance point (the highest point of the neck of the back and shelf and related measurements), it is convenient to use a shoulder pad made according to size 48 patterns on the right side of the figure (for women) from a light fabric, for example, tricotin (Fig. 1).
The shoulder pad is placed on the shoulder and tied around the neck and around the arm with strings provided for this purpose, carefully straightened so that the front cut is located strictly in the middle of the front, and the back is in the middle of the back.
When taking measurements, you need to pay attention to the features of the physique: the buttocks or shoulder blades, the abdomen or breasts, etc. protrude. In the presence of asymmetry in the figure, paired measurements are made on the right and left sides. Otherwise, measure only the right side.
When measuring, the measuring tape is held so that it fits snugly to the body, but not very tight, without deforming soft tissue body.
Dimensional signs of figures are conventionally designated by the following letters:
B - heights
D - lengths, distances, arcs
O - full girths
C - half-grips
Ц - distance between centers (or protruding points)
W - width
d - diameters
Г - depths
P - position of the body (position of a point or line)
Subscripts for uppercase letters indicate measurement sites.
Measurements B, D, O, P, P, as well as the width of the shoulder slope Shp, are made and recorded in full.
Measurements S, Ts, W (except for Shp) are made in full, and recorded at half size.
In the drawing (Fig. 2), instead of letter designations, for simplicity, serial numbers of measurements are used.
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Measurement serial number in the drawing |
Dimensional sign |
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Name |
How is it measured |
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Vertical distance from floor to apical point |
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Shoulder point height |
Vertical distance from floor to shoulder point |
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Waist line height |
Vertical distance from floor to waist line |
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Knee height |
Distance from floor to knee point vertically |
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Neck point height |
Vertical distance from the floor to the cervical point |
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Height of the posterior angle of the armpit |
Vertical distance from the floor to the posterior angle of the armpit |
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Height of the buttocks fold |
The distance from the floor to the middle of the buttocks folds vertically |
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Semi-grip (semicircle) |
The tape, tightly attached to the body, runs behind the lower edge slightly above the cervical point, from the side and in front it goes along the base of the neck, touching the lower edge of the clavicular points. The tape is closed over the jugular cavity of the sternum. The size is read at the bottom edge of the centimeter tape. In this case, you should pay attention to the shape and setting of the neck and note its features: short, long, cylindrical, with fat deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra, tilted forward or backward. The length of the neck is taken into account when choosing a style, its shape and fat deposits - when determining the width and depth of the neck. The position of the neck affects the design of the neckline at the base of the neck. |
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Semi-girth (semicircle) chest first |
On the back, the tape is placed horizontally along the lower corners of the shoulder blades, with the upper edge touching the rear corners of the armpits. Then the tape passes over the armpits. In front of women, above the base of the mammary glands, in men - at the level of the mid-sternal point (above the nipples) The tape is closed on the right side of the chest. * |
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Semi-girth (semicircle) of the second chest |
* The second bust should be measured immediately after measuring the first bust, without shifting the measuring tape on the chest (!) When measuring, the tape from the back and armpits passes in the same way as in the previous measurement (Cr 1), and in front of women - through the protruding points of the mammary glands, in men - through the nipple points. The tape is closed on the right side of the chest. |
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Semi-girth (semicircle) of the third chest |
The tape runs horizontally around the body, parallel to the waist, through the protruding points of the mammary glands in women, through the nipple points in men, without taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades. The tape is closed on the right side of the chest. The size of this measurement determines the size of the figure. (!) . |
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Semi-girth (semicircle) of the fourth chest |
Measured only in women. The measure is used when sewing underwear for women. The tape runs horizontally around the torso just below the base of the breasts and closes on the right side of the chest. |
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Half waist |
The tape runs horizontally around the body at the level of the waistline (along a belt or lace tied around the waist) |
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Semi-girth of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen |
The tape runs horizontally around the body at the level of the gluteal points, in front - along a flexible plate, leaning vertically against the abdomen (to take into account the protrusion of the abdomen). Instead of a plate, you can substitute your palm under the measuring tape. The tape is closed on the right side of the body. The measurement of the hip girth can be taken in this way: first, measure the figure along a horizontal line located 10 cm below the waist, then 17-20 cm below the waist, if the hips are shaped like "breeches", then also along the horizontal line passing on high points. Of these, the largest is chosen. When taking a measurement of the girth of the thighs, the shape of the thighs and the places of the greatest fat deposits are noted with their uneven placement. |
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Half knee |
The tape runs horizontally around the leg at the knee point (at the widest point of the knee) and closes on the outside of the leg. |
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The distance from the waist line to the floor at the side |
The distance from the waistline to the floor along the lateral surface of the thigh through the most protruding area of the thigh and then vertically |
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The distance from the waist to the floor in front |
Distance from the waist line through the most protruding point of the abdomen and then vertically to the floor |
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Inside leg length (stride length) |
The distance from the crotch along the inner surface of the leg to the floor (or base of the leg) with the legs slightly apart. |
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Shoulder girth (arm girth) |
Measure with a freely lowered arm in the fullest upper part, horizontally, touching the upper edge of a measuring tape to the posterior corner of the armpit. Close the tape on the outer surface of the hand. If the arm is full, then this circumstance must be taken into account in the design of the sleeve and the distribution of the landing along its edge. |
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Wrist girth |
The tape runs horizontally around the wrist (including the bone) of the hand and closes on the outer surface of the hand. |
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Shoulder slope width (shoulder length) |
Measure from the point of the base of the neck in the middle of the humeral slope to the final humeral point. This measurement determines the design of the shoulder girdle of the product. If the figure has narrow shoulders and body fat at the top of the shoulder girth, then the measurement Shp it is desirable to increase somewhat. Conversely, for a figure with wide shoulders, narrow back and normal shoulder circumference, this measurement should be reduced (by 1-1.5 cm). see measurement 36 |
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Chest height |
Measure from the cervical point on the back (seventh cervical vertebra), through the point of the base of the neck, to the most prominent point of the breast in women and to the nipple point in men. * |
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Front length to waist |
Measure from the cervical point on the back (seventh cervical vertebra), through the point of the base of the neck, the most prominent point of the breast in women (nipple point in men) to the waist line. * * - Measurements Bg and Dpt removed at the same time, avoiding the shift of the tape on the chest |
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Back armhole height |
The distance from the cervical point to the horizontal, drawn with a centimeter at the level of the lower corners of the armpits. This measure determines the depth of the armhole. |
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The length of the back to the waist, taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades |
Measure from the cervical point to the waist line along the spine through a thin plate up to 2 cm wide, superimposed on the protruding points of the shoulder blades. ** |
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Shoulder height oblique |
Measured at the shortest distance from the intersection of the waist line with the spine to the shoulder point. The tape is kept taut. ** ** - Measurements Dst and Vpk measured one by one |
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Back length from waist to base of neck |
Distance from the back of the waistline to the base of the neck (the highest point of the neck), across the shoulder blade. The tape runs along the back parallel to the spine. |
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Chest width (measurement is recorded at half size) |
In women, it is measured above the base of the mammary glands between the verticals, mentally nym upward from the front corners of the armpits, in men - between the front corners of the armpits. The tape lies horizontally, directly above the bust line of the first ( Og 1 ). The measure cannot be increased, otherwise the armhole will be narrow. |
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Center of chest (measurement is recorded at half size) |
The distance between the protruding points of the mammary glands - in women, between the nipple points - in men. |
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Back width (measurement is recorded at half size) |
Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades between the rear angles of the armpits directly above the chest circumference line of the first and second. The measure cannot be increased, otherwise the armhole will be narrowed. At the same time, attention is paid to the distance of the shoulder blades and the curvature of the back, which is taken into account when constructing the midline of the back and darts on the shoulder blades. |
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Seat height |
The distance from the waist line to the plane of the seat is measured laterally from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat. The person to be measured sits on a chair with a flat firm seat |
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Transverse diameter of the neck (measured with a compass) |
Distance between the points of the base of the neck |
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Anteroposterior arm diameter |
Measured with a compass horizontally at the level of the posterior angle of the armpit |
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Front length to waist line first |
The distance from the point of the base of the neck (the highest point of the neck) to the waist line in front through the most protruding point of the chest - in women and the nipple point - in men |
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Arm length (sleeves) to elbow |
Measured with a freely lowered arm from the shoulder point to the ulnar point along the outer surface of the arm (measurement can be carried out with a slightly bent arm) |
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Arm length (sleeves) to the wrist line |
Measure with a freely lowered arm from the shoulder point to the wrist along the outer surface of the arm (the measurement can also be carried out with a slightly bent arm). |
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Vertical arm diameter |
Determined by subtracting the value Bzu (No. 6 - the height of the posterior angle of the armpit) from the value of Vpt (No. 2 - the height of the shoulder point). |
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Distance from the cervical point to the knee |
Determined by subtracting the value Вк (No. 4 - the height of the knee point) from the Bpc value (No. 5 - the height of the cervical point). |
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Shoulder height (projection) |
Measure the vertical distance from the shoulder point to the horizontal plane passing through the cervical point. To check, the shoulder height can be determined by subtracting the value Bpt (No. 2 - the height of the shoulder point) from the value Bpc (No. 5 - the height of the cervical point). |
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Body position |
Measure horizontally the distance from the cervical point to the vertical plane passing through the most protruding points of the shoulder blades. |
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Distance from the cervical point to the base of the neck from the side |
Measured along the neck circumference measurement line. This value can also be determined by subtracting the Dpt¹ value (No. 34 - the length of the front to the waist first) from the Dpt value (No. 23 - the length of the front to the waist). |
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Waist depth first |
Measure horizontally the distance from the vertical plane, tangent to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, to a ruler applied horizontally to the longitudinal muscles of the back at the level of the waist line |
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Second waist depth |
Measure horizontally the distance from the vertical plane tangent to the gluteal points to a ruler applied horizontally to the longitudinal muscles of the back at the level of the waist line |
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Foot volume girth (ankle girth) |
Measure through the back, most downward protruding point of the heel and the highest point of the instep of the foot. The tape is closed at the front. |
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Measurements not shown in fig. 2 |
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First chest width |
Measure horizontally along the protruding points of the chest to the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front corners of the armpits. The measure serves to clarify the size of the construction site at the level of measuring the width of the chest and solution chest darts when designing products (especially for a figure with a large bust). |
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First breast height |
Distance from the point of the base of the neck (the highest point of the neck) to the protruding point of the chest |
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Vppk (vpkp) |
Shoulder height oblique in front |
Measured from the protruding point of the chest to the final shoulder point (sometimes this measurement is measured from the waist line through the protruding point of the chest to the shoulder point) |
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The distance from the waist to the floor at the back |
Measured from the waist line along the protruding part of the buttocks and further vertically to the floor |
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Waist to knee (front) |
Measured from the waistline along the leg to the knee |
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Skirt length |
Measured from the waistline to the desired length of the skirt from the side down |
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Length trousers |
Measured from the waistline to the desired length of the trousers from the side down |
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D products |
Length of the product |
Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra) along the spine to the desired length of the product. |
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To avoid unnecessary movements and movements of the figure while taking measurements, it is recommended to take basic measurements in a certain sequence, for example, as indicated in the following table:
1. Semi-girth of the neck
2. Semi-girth of the chest 1
3. Semi-girth of the chest 2
4. Semi-girth of the chest 3
5. Semi-girth of the waist
6. Half girth of the hips
7. Chest width 1
8. Back length to waist line
9. Length of the front to the waist line
10. Chest height
11. Center of the chest
12. Shoulder height oblique
13. Back width
14. Shoulder width
15. Shoulder girth
16. Chest width 2
17. Wrist circumference
18. Back length to waist 1
19. Armhole height
In addition, while measuring a shape, you can compare some measurements and analyze the comparison results.
So, the Vppk measurement (oblique shoulder height in front) is less than the Br¹ measurement (the first chest height) by an average of 2-2.5 cm (but not more than 3 cm). If it turns out less than 2 cm or more than 3 cm, then recheck the measurements Vppk and Br¹. Most likely, a mistake was made, tk. very rarely are there people with completely straight or very sloping shoulders.
The difference (Cr 2 - Cr 1) must be equal to the difference (Wr¹ - Wr). If the figure has a large bust, then (Wg¹- Wg)> (Cr 2 - Cr 1) by 1-1.5 cm.
Measure Vpk = measure Dst¹. They can differ by 1-1.5 cm for stooped or kinky figures.
Based on the book
Volkova N.V.
"Technology of sewing men's clothing"
Rostov-on-Don: "Phoenix", 2002.
Measurements are taken with a measuring tape, the client should stand calmly, without tension, without changing the usual posture.
To accurately determine the waistline, the figure in the places of the greatest deflection of the waist must first be girded with a lace and check its horizontalness by measuring the distance from the lace to the floor in front and behind with a centimeter. Greater accuracy in taking measurements is necessary because an error in any measurement entails an incorrect execution of the design drawing.
In the course of measurements, we fill in the table.
If something is not clear, please contact us.
Withdrawal measurements
1. Neck girth - Sh.
A centimeter tape is passed from the back above the cervical point, from the side - along the base of the neck and is closed in front above the jugular notch.
2. Chest circumference of the second - G2.
The measurement is carried out on the back along the lower corners of the shoulder blades and then the tape is taken out from under the armpits, in front of the tape is passed through the mammary glands and closed on the right side of the chest.
3. Chest circumference third - GZ.
The measurement is carried out horizontally around the body through the protruding points of the mammary glands, a measuring tape is closed on the right side of the chest.
4. Waist circumference - T.
The measurement is taken horizontally at the thinnest point of the torso at the level of the waist line. For trousers, the waist half-girth is removed, in the same way as for shoulder products, but taking into account where the trouser belt will be on the body, i.e. clearly at the waist or slightly below. If the belt is underestimated, then the measurement is taken exactly at the place where the belt will "sit"
5. Hips - B.
The measurement is made in the horizontal plane along the most protruding parts of the buttocks, the centimeter tape is closed from the side, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
6. Back width - Shs.
The measurement is made in a horizontal plane along the shoulder blades, between the posterior angles of the armpits.
7. Chest width - Wg
is measured in the horizontal plane above the bases of the mammary glands between the anterior angles of the armpits. This measurement is necessary as a control measurement and for calculating other measurements.
8. Shoulder girth at the top - Opv.
c is measured with a freely lowered arm perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder so that the upper edge of the tape touches the rear corner of the armpit. The measurement is necessary to determine the width of the armhole and the width of the sleeve at the top.
9. Width of the shoulder slope - Shp
measured from the point of the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder slope to the shoulder point.
10. Sleeve length - Dr
measured from the shoulder point or the point of the base of the neck with the arm freely lowered to the desired length, depending on the type of product.
11 Back length to waist - Dt.s
measured from the cervical point along the spine to the waist line, taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades.
12 Length of the front to the waist line - Дпт.
Measured from the highest point of the shoulder at the base of the neck, through the protruding point of the chest to the cord at the waist.
13. Shoulder height oblique back - Bp.k.s
AND Measured at the shortest distance from the point of intersection of the waist line with the spine to the shoulder point. If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is made on the higher shoulder or the height of both shoulders is measured.
14. Product length - Di.
It is measured by continuing the measurement of Dt.s to the desired length of the product.
15. The height of the armhole at the back - Vprz.
It is measured from the highest shoulder point from the base of the neck along the shoulder blades, spine to the horizontal, drawn from under the posterior angle of the armpits.
16. Seat height - Sun.
It is removed on the side from the waistline (or the line where the belt will be located) to the horizontal, drawn from under the buttocks. On average, this is from 22 to 30 cm. The higher the trousers are worn at the waist, the larger the measurement.
17. Pants width at knee level - Шк.
Measured around the knee and determined according to fashion direction.
18. Bottom width - Shn.
The bottom width is taken arbitrarily and is also determined in accordance with the direction of the fashion.
19. The length of the leg along the inner surface - Дн.
Measured from groin to floor.
20. Wrist circumference - Ozap
Measure around the forearm at the wrist joint through the radial head. (Slide the strap from the watch close to the wrist, that's it.)
| FULL NAME.: | ||
| Product: | ||
| № | Measure | Value, cm |
| 1 | Sh | |
| 2 | G2 | |
| 3 | G3 | |
| 4 | T | |
| 5 | B | |
| 6 | Shs | |
| 7 | Wg | |
| 8 | Opv | |
| 9 | Shp | |
| 10 | Dr | |
| 11 | Dts | |
| 12 | Dpt | |
| 13 | Vpks | |
| 14 | Di | |
| 15 | Vprz | |
| 16 | Sun | |
| 17 | Shk | |
| 18 | Shn | |
| 19 | Day | |
| 20 | Ozap | |
| 21 | R | |
