Preparation of the product for the first fitting is carried out in the sequence:
· Check of a cut;
· Laying of copy lines on the details of the product along the lines of seams and construction lines;
· Creasing of breast darts, seams, folds;
· Stitching of darts, seams, folds, which do not change when trying on;
· WTO parts, creating the shape of the product;
Manufacturing gasket parts, processing of side and insulating (for a winter coat) gaskets;
· Connection of shelves and lower collar with adhesive pads;
Temporary installation includes operations:
Crease of parts of shelves, backs, sleeves and patching of seams;
Crease of side and shoulder sections of the product;
Sweeping of the bottom of the product and sleeves;
Sewing the lower collar into the neckline;
Placing the sleeves into the armhole (in the women's right, in the men's left);
In products for kinky figures, for figures with different shoulder heights, both sleeves should be swept in for fitting.
During the temporary installation of the product, all decorative and constructive details of the product that determine the style of the product must be accepted: patch pockets, cuffs, straps; the product must be carefully ironed.
1.1.8 Carrying out the first fitting.
Changes after the first fitting in MK and templates
Fitting procedure:
1. clarification of the fit of the product on the figure;
2. clarification of the shape and proportions of the product, taking into account the individual characteristics of the customer's figure;
3. clarification of the shape, size and position of decorative and finishing details;
4. identification of technological defects of the product.
Clarification of the fit of the product on the figure
The product is put on, straightened, the middle of the front are aligned and pinned with pins on the chest, waist and loops.
Fitting of women's products is performed on the right side, for men's products - on the left. First, it is necessary to establish the cause of the defect, and then proceed with the re-chipping.
With the correct fit, the lines of the middle of the shelves, back and side seams should be vertical, the lines of the chest, waist and hips should be horizontal. In this case, there should be no creases and distortions.
During the fitting, first of all, the anterior-posterior and lateral balance of the product, the shape and length of the sleeve are specified.
Incorrect fit of the product on the figure consists in the incorrect location of the sides of the shelves (they may diverge or unnecessarily find one on top of the other).
Having specified the length of the sleeve, its shape and width at the top and bottom, the sleeve is separated from the armhole. To achieve balance, the shoulder seam is ripped open, and the stock is released or removed at the highest point of the shoulder seam and neckline. At the same time, you should pay attention to how the shelf fits the figure on the shoulder area, in the neck, chest and armholes, and the back - in the neck, shoulder blades and armholes. Then they check the correctness of the ratio of the width of the neck of the back and the shelf, the correct location and direction of the shoulder seam, in women's coats and jackets - the length and solution of the breast darts, the length and solution of the darts on the back (from the shoulder seam) and the size of the shoulder seam of the back.
The distortions of the shoulder seam are eliminated by moving the backrest and the shelf relative to each other.
Then the direction of the side seams is specified. In products that are adjacent and semi-adjacent at the waist, it is checked whether the waist line of the figure corresponds to the waist line of the product; at the same time, at the level of the intended waist line, the darts and reliefs should have the greatest solution.
In the figure that has deviations from the conditionally proportional, and in the figure with asymmetric sides, both sides of the product are specified.
If the armhole is small, mark it with chalk and cut the areas of fabric that are wrinkled. They outline the line for stitching in the sleeve and prick the sleeve, specifying the position along the bend and along the sleeve so that there are no creases on it. The sleeve is pricked at three points: against the shoulder seam and at the axillary corners from the back and front. Then the width of the sleeve is specified and the bottom is pinned up.
Then have they refine the shape, size and position of the decorative and finishing details of the product. The shape and proportions of the product are checked against the drawing of the model. To clarify the shape of the product, side seams, darts, reliefs and other constructive lines can be changed. Changing, thus, the ratio of the widths of the back and the shelf, you can visually disguise figure flaws.
An important step in the fitting is to clarify the position of the loops, the shape of the lapel and collar, and if the shoulder seams were unstitched, then the lines of the collar connection with the neckline. Clarify the height of the rack and the width of the collar in the back in the middle, at the level of the shoulder seams and at the ends, check the degree of fit to the neck.
Having specified the position of the lines of the side seams, the silhouette, the bottom of the product, they clarify the shape and position on the main details of pockets, valves, stalemates, etc. The shape and size of the finishing details can be specified during fitting, but they can be completely manufactured for fitting.
When shallowing the product with dry soap or chalk, mark the new position of the lines, put control signs to connect the parts. The product is smashed, marked and cut along new lines, changes are made to the patterns.
A feature and advantage of individual tailoring is the ability to make fittings, during which you can check the correct fit of the product on the figure, clarify the position of individual parts, eliminate defects caused by errors in taking measurements, making a drawing.
Transferring pattern lines to cut details
All contour lines of the pattern and markings can be transferred to the details of the garment different ways... The choice of method depends on whether you want to see the lines only on the seamy side of the cut details, or they should also be on the front side. It is also important to consider the type and properties of the material.
You can quickly and accurately transfer the lines of the pattern using a chisel with a wheel and carbon paper (Fig. 73, o), the color of which should be in contrast to the color of the fabric. After cutting, the cut details folded with the front sides inside with a pattern pinned with pins are placed on the paper laid out with a copy layer upwards and the cutter wheel is drawn along all the contours of the pattern, internal lines and marks. The outline of the pattern should appear on back side in the form of dots. This method cannot be used for fine fabrics.
The lines are also transferred to the second part.
You learned how to carry out the transfer of pattern lines with copy lines (Fig. 73, b) in grade 6. This is a tedious process and is used for fine fabrics or to show lines on the obverse.
Rice. 73. Transferring the lines of the pattern to the cut details: a - by the wheel of the cutter; b - with copying stitches-snares; in - straight stitches; d - pins
The transfer of the pattern lines can be performed using straight stitches with a thread of a contrasting color, the stitches are laid along the track of the wheel, separating the parts (Fig. 73, c).
Experienced tailors use pins when transferring patterns. The pins are inserted through two layers of fabric at the intersection points of the straight lines of the pattern, the cut details are turned over and the points indicated by the pins are connected using a ruler and tailor's chalk (Fig. 73, d). When transferring curved lines, pins are inserted as often as necessary in order to reveal the contours of the line. This method is not suitable for very thin fabrics, as the pins can cause the threads to slip.
Basting the garment for the first try
When preparing a product for trying on, the parts are connected manually with temporary stitches or on sewing machine stitches 5-6 mm long, allowing you to quickly separate the parts. This temporary connection of parts is called sweeping. At the beginning and at the end of hand stitches, it is necessary to make two or three reverse reinforcement stitches, otherwise, when trying on, the threads will disperse and the seam will be disposed of. You need to sweep the product on the table, and not by weight.
Basting middle back seam
If the product has a middle seam on the back, then before sweeping, the back parts are folded with the front sides inward and, aligning the outlined contours, cleave them with pins, which are placed across the seam. Parallel to the outlined seam line, stepping back 1 mm towards the cuts of the parts, lay straight hand stitches (Fig. 74). Do not sweep the slit under the fastener before trying it on.
Rice. 74. Basting the middle back seam
Sweeping darts
If you have chosen a model with darts, you should know the rules for processing them.
To sweep a simple dart (coming from the cut), you need to fold the part face inward along the midline, combining the lateral lines and control notches. Then chop with pins and lay straight stitches along the side line (Fig. 75, a).
To process a solid dart (located in the middle of the part), it is swept away, starting from one of the ends of the dart (Fig. 75, b).
Rice. 75. Sweeping darts: a - simple; b - solid
Basting shoulder cuts
Connecting the back and the front, the cut details are folded with the front sides inward, the shoulder cuts are equalized, cleaved with pins, and then swept away from the back (Fig. 76). If the back part has shoulder darts, they are processed before sweeping the shoulder cuts and ironed towards the middle of the part. Usually, the shoulder section of the back for a better fit of the shoulder blades is made slightly longer than the section of the shelf. Excess length during sweeping is slightly planted, shortened until a slight bulge is formed.
Rice. 76. Sweeping shoulder cuts from the back
Side sweeping
To connect the product along the side cuts, the backrest and in front are folded with the front sides inward, the control marks are aligned, the cuts are equalized and, chipped with pins, are swept away from the front (Fig. 77).
Rice. 77. Sweeping side cuts from the front
Bodice-to-skirt connection
In products cut along the waist or hips, the bodice is inserted into the skirt so that both parts are facing each other with their front sides. Equalize their cuts along the waist, align the control marks and side seams and cleave them with pins. The details are swept away from the side of the skirt (Fig. 78).
Rice. 78. Sweeping the bodice with a skirt
Basting hem
The hem allowance is folded along the bottom line to the wrong side and swept out (fig. 79).
Rice. 79. Basting hem
Practical work number 20
Preparation of the product for fitting
Materials and tools: cut details, sewing thread, needle, thimble.
- Transfer all contour, internal lines and control points to the cut details in any of the studied ways.
- Sweep the details of the product, sweep the bottom cut.
Control
- The contour lines and control points of the garment parts are aligned.
- The ends of the stitches are well secured.
New concepts
Cutter with wheel, carbon paper, sweep.
Control questions
1. What method of transferring the pattern lines to the fabric did you choose? 2. On what line are the basting lines laid? 3. Why do you need to fasten the ends of the stitches?
Theme: Preparation of the product for the first fitting.
Trying on the product and eliminating defects.
Target:
Teach students how to prepare a product for fitting;
To acquaint with the methods of connecting shoulder cuts, of which one should have a fit;
To acquaint with the most typical shortcomings identified as a result of fitting;
To teach how to properly fit, eliminate the shortcomings identified as a result of fitting;
Develop skills of self-control, mutual control. Ability to work with instruction cards, devices;
Develop Creative skills, hand coordination;
To educate students in attentiveness, accuracy, accuracy, independence, love for sewing.
Class 7a
Methodical equipment lesson:
A sample of the shoulder product, prepared for fitting;
Instructional cards: "Preparation of the product for the first try-on", "Carrying out the first try-on", "Elimination of defects after the first try-on";
Presentation "Preparation of the product for the first fitting";
Tables of the main shortcomings of the shoulder product;
TB tables;
Cut the product;
Boxes with sewing accessories;
Workbooks;
Multimedia projector;
Teaching methods: explanation, demonstration of labor techniques, demonstration of visual material, practical work.
Lesson type: combined
Interdisciplinary connections: informatics, fine arts, drawing, mathematics, literature.
During the classes:
I. Organizing time :
Checking those present, their readiness for the lesson.
II. Repetition of the covered material :
each of the brigades prepared a crossword puzzle (d / h) for the other brigade.
III. The study of new material is accompanied by a presentation :
Teacher:
Today in the lesson we will continue to work on making a shoulder product. In the last lesson, what did we do with you? We were engaged in the preparation of cut parts for processing. Today we will prepare the product for the first fitting, carry out the first fitting, eliminate defects after the first fitting, if any. Slide And so write it down theme of today's lesson: “Preparing a product for the first fitting. Trying on the product and eliminating defects. "
Slide Lesson objectives
Our task is to prepare the product for the first fitting so that during it there are as few flaws as possible. In order for the product to fit well on the figure, it is very important to correctly connect its parts to each other, i.e. make the connecting and edge seams accurately. By the first fitting, darts, folds, reliefs, side and shoulder cuts should be swept away, the bottom should be bent and swept away. It is recommended to bind off cut details with thin threads.
At factories of individual tailoring, progressive technology recommends using С-М 1822 class. for creasing a product for trying on from fabrics that do not have increased extensibility, slip, cut through under the needle. Application of SM 1822cl. reduces volume manual work an average of 30 minutes per unit. products.
We will prepare the product for fitting by hand in the following sequence.
Slide Preparation of the product for fitting
| Stitch length, cm |
||
| Prepare the cut for creasing: chop the cuts of the parts facing inward; start from the waist (up and down), from the middle of the front or back - left and right, we combine the control signs. Place pins across the line at intervals of 5-6 cm on straight sections and 1-2 cm on curves. Sweep away the shoulder sections of the back and shelves, making a landing on the shoulder section of the back. Sweep away from the back. The highest points of the neck of the back and the shelf should match. Sweep the side cuts of the back and shelves, aligning the waist line. Sweep away from the back. Fold the bottom of the sleeve along the bottom line to the wrong side and sweep. Bend the bottom of the product along the bottom line to the wrong side and sweep. |
Teacher: How does the basting line work? (Offset from the marked line by 1 mm to the cuts). Who does the cutting? (cutter). And who dares? (estimator).
Demonstration of labor receptions: I show the work methods to the brigade No. 1, the brigade No. 2 at this time writes down the sequence of work on the preparation of the product for the first fitting. Then I show the work methods to the brigade №2, the brigade №1 makes an entry in the notebook.
Repetition of safety precautions with a needle, scissors.
Fizminutka
IV. Practical work
Students carry out the practical work "Preparing the product for the first try-on" according to the instruction cards.
V. Learning new material
Teacher: you have prepared the product for the first fitting, now let's carry it out. Who does the fitting, what is the name of the profession? (cutter). The fitting of a female shoulder product is performed on the right side of the figure. The places where it is necessary to make corrections are marked with pins, placing them across the seam. After trying on, all corrections, if any, are transferred to the left side of the product.
Slide: sketch "Fitting the product"
Slide: Carrying out the first fitting
| Sequence of work |
|
| Put on the product; chop off the clasp, aligning the midlines, starting from the waist, up and down. Check the position of the center lines of the front and back relative to the center of the figure. Check the fit of the product on the figure - fit along the neckline, shoulder seams, along the chest, waist, hips. Specify the width of the product. Clarify the position of the shoulder seams so that they are not shifted towards the front or back. Refine the position of the side seam. Mark with shallow the shape and depth of the neckline. Refine the length and width of the sleeve. Check the position of the waist line. Refine the length of the product along the entire lower edge from the floor using a ruler. |
Demonstration of labor techniques for the first fitting.
Fitting task - to achieve the correct volume, balance of the product, the correct fit of its parts.
Slide: Defects of the fit of the shoulder product and their elimination
| Remedies |
||
| The product is wide | Pick up excess fabric in the side seam |
|
| The product is narrow | Open side seam and release seam allowance |
|
| Shoulder seam is shifted towards the back | Cut the seam and chop it, releasing the seam allowance at the back and removing at the front |
|
| Creases and creases in the back at the neck | Deepen the neckline |
|
| The shelves diverge at the bottom | Cut the shoulder seam and chop it, removing the excess fabric on the shelf near the neckline and releasing the seam allowance around the sleeve |
|
| The shelves overlap one another unnecessarily below | Open the shoulder seam and chop it, removing the excess fabric on the shelf near the sleeve and releasing the seam allowance near the neck |
|
| The sleeve is narrow (or wide) | Open the shoulder seam, release (remove) the seam allowance |
|
| Stretched neckline | Tuck excess fabric into shoulder seams |
Fizminutka
Vi. Practical work:
Students conduct their first try-on in groups of three using the First Try-On Sheets. The teacher gives permission for the interrogation.
Vii. Current briefing:
The teacher checks the correctness of the work, compliance with safety standards, evaluates the work.
VIII. Securing the material:
1). Stages of preparing the product for the first fitting.
2). Are the shoulder sections swept away from the back or shelf?
3). On which side of the figure is the product being tried on?
4). If the product is narrow, what needs to be done?
5). How to eliminate the movement of the shoulder seams towards the back?
IX. Summing up the lesson:
1). What have you learned in the lesson?
2). Analysis of errors in the performance of work and their causes.
3). Reporting grades for a lesson.
X. Homework: Slide
1). Make changes to the products after the first fitting, using the material from the tutorial pages 136-140.
2). Sweep the details of the product along new lines.
XI.Reflection: Slide
XII.Cleaning of workplaces:
"Preparing a product for fitting"
Goals.
1. Correctional educational.
To acquaint children with the sequence of preparing a skirt for fitting.
2. Correctional and developmental.
2.1. To develop the thinking processes of students on the basis of analytical work on a sample product.
2.2. To develop memory and attention in the process of reproducing the order of the sequence of sewing a straight skirt.
2.3. To develop skills and abilities of sewing business.
2. 4. To develop a coherent speech in the process of negotiating operations to prepare a skirt for fitting.
3. Correctional educational.
3.1. To cultivate accuracy, the ability to organize a workplace.
3.2. To cultivate a culture of behavior, discipline, friendly relations in the team.
3.3. To cultivate diligence, dedication.
Visibility. A sample of a finished product, a drawing of a straight skirt, sketches, a pattern, a cut of parts, vocabulary words, a technological chart, instruction cards, rules for safe work.
Equipment. Individual task cards, chalk, measuring tape, scissors, needles, threads.
During the classes.
1. Organizational moment.
2. Repetition-conversation, based on existing knowledge.
2.1. Individual cards - tasks: “Name what is superfluous”, “Name shoulder products”,“ Name the waist products ”,“ Circle the product we are sewing ”.
Pupils answer verbally. In the last task, you need to circle the skirt.
2.2. According to the “Product Description” plan, the students talk about their products.
- What products are skirts according to the way they are worn?
- Skirts are waist-length products.
- What kinds of skirts are there for the purpose?
- By design, skirts are smart, casual, sports, uniform.
- What fabric can be used to sew a skirt?
- For sewing a skirt, you can use cotton fabric, linen, wool.
2.3. Exercise. On the blackboard there are visual aids for the step-by-step manufacture of a skirt. It is necessary to place the defining words under them:
SKETCH DRAWING PATTERN FIT
2.4. Exercise. According to the drawing of the skirt, it is necessary to name the details and contour lines. The student fixes cards with the names of the details of the skirt and contour lines in the drawing:back panel, front panel, mid line, side line, bottom line, waist line, hips line.
2.5. Question ... What kind of skirt-making work did we do in the last lesson?
Answer. In the last lesson, we prepared the cut of the skirt for processing: we laid copy stitches along the contour lines, marked the line in the middle of the parts.
2.6. Exercise. On the cut of the parts, determine which line the copy stitches are not laid on.
Physical minute.
3. Communication of new material.
In the previous lessons, we have already talked about the features of making lightweight clothing. One of them is sewing a product with fitting. On fitting, we specify the fit of the product on the figure, its volume and length. We will dwell on this issue in more detail in the next lessons. And today we must prepare the product for fitting.
The teacher writes on the board, and the students write the topic of the lesson in notebooks.
What does it mean to prepare a skirt for fitting? This means connecting the details of the skirt in order to try it on before sewing.
The teacher offers to consider a sample of a skirt ready for fitting
For fitting, darts are swept away, side seams along the side lines. On the left side of the skirt along the side line, leave 15cm for the fastener processing. A belt is swept along the upper cut. We notice the bottom along the outlined line.
Details of the skirt, darts are connected by temporary stitches forward to the needle. Make sure the stitches are tight enough so that they don't come apart during fitting. The length of the stitches is 5-6 mm, at the beginning and at the end of the stitch, bartacks are made.
Now let's check how carefully you listened to me.
Exercise. Cards of operational work are scattered on the board. It is necessary to draw up a sequence for preparing a skirt for fitting. Each student offers her own version of preparing a skirt for fitting. During a general discussion of the work plan, the best way is chosen.
The teacher sums up, reads out the sequence of preparing the skirt for fitting according to the flow chart:
- Basting darts of the front panel of the skirt
- Basting darts on the back of the skirt
- Sweeping parts along the right side line
- Sweeping parts along the left side line
- Stitching around the waist
- Bridging the lower edge of the skirt
4. Practical work.
4.1. Occupational health and safety briefing.
Pupils draw out “tickets” with questions on safety measures, answer orally.
4.2. Instructions for the upcoming work.
The teacher explains to the students that during work they need to use technological map, in addition, in front of each student on the desk is an "Instruction card" with detailed description work. The teacher reminds us that the dart is swept away from the sharp end to the blunt one; during work we use sewing terminology for manual work: sweep, sweep, sweep.
The work must be done with high quality, so that during the fitting, the hand seams do not tear. After completing the work, you need to check the quality and compare your product with a sample.
4.3. During work, the teacher supervises the implementation of the assignment and helps the lagging students.
4.4. Physical exercise, gymnastics for the eyes.
4.5. Checking the quality of work.
5. Summing up the lesson.
– What did you do in class today?
- Prepared the skirt for fitting.
- What sewing terms were used in the lesson?
- We used sewing terminology for manual work: sweep, sweep, sweep.
6. Anchoring.
- Exercise. Tell why the fitting is done.
- Exercise. What are the technological operations for preparing a straight skirt for fitting.
- Exercise ... The students check and analyze the quality of each other's work.
7. Grades for the lesson.
Fitting a skirt
The skirt should be tried on while standing straight, but freely, in a natural position. They put the product on the figure, straighten the side seams on both sides, the folds of the darts should be directed towards the middle of the panels, zip up or fasten the unsweetened section for fastening with pins, determine the swept braid exactly at the waist. The top of the skirt is shaped according to the figure.
Fitting should be done very carefully, paying attention to:
1) general view (freedom of fit, absence of irregularities, visible defects, proportionality of the product, harmonious compositional solution)
2) the symmetry of the front and rear panels (analyzing the position of the control lines in the middle of the parts, which should be located exactly in the middle of the figure and run strictly vertically);
3) balance of the product (signs of correct balance are: the verticality of the side seams, the same degree of adherence of the panels to the legs in front and behind, the horizontality of the upper cut of the skirt along the waistline and the horizontalness of the bottom line). when trying on, you need to stand straight, feet shoulder width apart. To check the balance, connect the bottom of the front and back panels of the skirt, aligning exactly in the middle. If the balance is disturbed, that is, the front and rear panels do not equalize at the bottom with their midpoints, in this case, the correction is made only at the expense of the waist line. Emphasizing the waistline with a thin elastic band, you should balance the product on the figure, noting the changes along the waistline - you should release the allowance along the upper cut of the cloth that seems to be upturned, and pick it up - on the one that is more adjacent to the legs).
4) the direction and length of the darts, with the help of which you can visually correct the figure (if the figure is thin, we will place the darts closer to the side seams, if full - closer to the middle of the panel line. side seams or to the middle of the panel).
5) the position and configuration of the side seams (the side seam should run strictly vertically, in a straight line, located in the middle of the thigh.);
6) fitting the product along the waist and hips; (if the product is wide, we will fasten the excess with pins, and if it is narrowed, we will open the side seam and release the fabric from the seam stock, first pin the middle of the panels to the linen with pins).
7) the configuration of the shaped lines, the position of the finishing details (pockets, undercuts, draperies). If the product has a fastener, mark the loops;
8) the line of the upper edge of the skirt (it should run horizontally, exactly coinciding with the ribbon or elastic at the waist, or parallel to it if the waist is high or low).
9) in flared products, the position of the bottom line is additionally specified, marking the same distance from the floor to the hem of the bottom with a ruler (without shoes) The bottom edge of a correctly fitting skirt should be at the same distance from the floor along its entire length.
Trousers fitting
Fitting is best done in the shoes with which the pants are supposed to be worn. During the fitting, the volume and length of the product are specified.
The sequence of the fitting.
1. Put on the product, chop off the fastener, specifying the position of the middle lines of the front and back halves.
2. Check the fit of the product on the figure - fit along the waist, hips.
3. Clarify the width of the trousers and the position of the side seams. Excess volume along the upper cut of the trousers is removed into the seat seam, back darts or into the side seams (evenly). Corrections should be made at the expense of the stock in the middle seam. It is convenient to remove excess volume by simply pinning pins with front side products.
4. Specify the width of the halves and the length of the product. Adjust the length so that the halves of the trousers completely cover the heel of the shoe. For very wide trousers, the length is increased according to the length of the heel, for narrow ones - shortened to slightly below the ankle.
Skirt defects:
| Defect | Cause of occurrence | Remedy | Graphic image |
| Transverse creases at the waist on the back of the skirt | The solution of the back and side darts does not match the figure (deep) | Reduces clearance of rear and side darts | |
| The skirt is wide along the hips | The skirt does not fit the figure - widened | Take away excess in side seams |  |
| The skirt is in front of the legs, in the back it is upturned | Insufficient deflection in the middle of the upper cut of the front panel | Increase the deflection in the middle of the front panel in accordance with the figure |  |
| The skirt is close to the back of the legs, in front - it is upturned | Insufficient deflection in the middle of the upper cut of the rear panel | Increase the deflection in the middle of the rear panel in accordance with the figure |  |
| The fold at the bottom diverges | Insufficient deflection along the upper edge of the skirt The upper edge of the pleat allowance does not match the shape of the upper edge of the skirt The product is narrowed along the hips | Increase the deflection of the upper cut of the skirt Upper cut of the allowance of the folds are brought into conformity The product is expanded along the line of the hips due to the allowances of the side seams or the depth of the folds is reduced |  |
| Slack along the side seam at the level of the hip line | Increasing the opening of the side tuck | Reduce the solution of the side darts, respectively, increase the solution of the rear and front darts by the same amount |  |
| Transverse creases in the thighs | Tapered at the thighs | Release stocks from seams |
Trousers defects and their elimination.
| Defect | Cause of occurrence | Remedy | Graphic image |
| wide trousers at the waist | the measurement of the waist circumference is incorrect; the trousers are stretched along the upper cut. | pick up excess fabric in the side seams and darts or in the middle seam from the waist to the hips; make the appropriate fit of the trousers along the upper cut on the waist |  |
| wide trousers at the hips - vertical fold on the back halves along the side seam at the hips | the measurement of the hip girth was carried out incorrectly or the increase in the hip was increased. | pick up excess fabric in the side seam at hip level |  |
| the folds of the front halves are shifted outward | the halves of the trousers are incorrectly joined along the step seam; the design did not take into account the peculiarity of the position of the legs - the toes of the feet are turned inward; the back halves of the trousers are narrowed in the area of the buttocks; short side seam - the peculiarity of the figure is not taken into account (protruding hips | shift the front half of the trousers up along the step seam by the required amount, while deepening the bow line; if necessary, cut off excess fabric at the waist in front; accordingly, release the supply of tissue below by the same amount and change the position of the control point on the knee line; expand the back halves of the trousers in the buttocks; release a stock of fabric at the side seam or raise the bow line; deepen the middle seam if necessary. |  |
| slack on the back halves of the trousers at the line of attaching the belt | the back halves of the trousers are long along the cut line at the top | : Pick up excess fabric in the belt, then cut off excess fabric |  |
| excessive sagging of the middle seam at the bottom | increased seat depth | reduce the depth of the seat (cut off the excess from the waistline, release the length from the bottom). |  |
| the folds of the front halves are displaced internally | the halves of the trousers are incorrectly joined along the step seam - the front half is shifted up; the design did not take into account the peculiarity of the position of the legs - the toes of the feet are turned outward | due to the lack of a stock of fabric along the bow line of the front half, the correction is made at the expense of the back half; the back half must be shifted up the step seam by the required amount, while deepening the middle seam, respectively, release the supply of tissue at the bottom by the same amount and change the control point on the knee line |  |
| fan creases in the area of the gluteal fold | the back halves of the trousers are narrowed at the seat level | release the stock of fabric along the step seam of the back halves; if the defect is significant, you need to grind the wedge to the back half. |  |
| horizontal folds from the hip line and above - the trousers are narrow along the waist line | the measurement of the waist circumference is incorrect; the increase in the waist line is not taken into account. | release the stock of fabric along the side seams, reduce the depth of the darts. |  |
| Helical twisting of halves of trousers, inclined creases | Violation of the technical conditions of preparation for fitting - joining the side and step seams from the side of different halves. | Open one of the seams and sweep away from the back halves |
