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  • The order of the fitting. Lesson on the topic: "Preparing garments for fitting." II. Methodological equipment of the lesson

The order of the fitting. Lesson on the topic: "Preparing garments for fitting." II. Methodological equipment of the lesson

For the first fitting, darts, side and shoulder cuts of cut details are swept with basting stitches. When basting, the parts are folded with the front sides inward, combining the copy stitches, control points. Parts of a complex configuration are swept away from the side of the part with a concave line. Shoulder cuts are swept away from the back.

Practical work

Instruction card:

Tools and accessories: work box, cut details.

Work sequence

1. Sweep off shoulder and bust darts, starting at the sharp end, aligning the copy stitches.

2. Sweep the shoulder cuts, aligning the copy stitches on the back and front details. The highest points of the neck of the back and the front should coincide.

3. Sweep the side sections, combining the copy stitches on the back and the shelf, control points along the waist, hips (sweep from the back).

4. In a garment without a fastener, fold the bottom of the garment along copy stitches to the wrong side and sweep it over.

Self-control

Check:

  1. accuracy and accuracy of sweeping darts;
  2. the length of the shoulder, chest darts;
  3. Accuracy of sweeping of shoulder and side seams;
  4. the combination of the highest points of the neck of the back and the shelf;
  5. the accuracy of sweeping the bottom of the product.

Questions and assignment

  1. How are darts swept away?
  2. Which side are the shoulder seams swept away from?
  3. Tell us about the sequence of preparing the product for the first fitting.

First fitting of the product

The product is tried on on the right side of the figure. Places where corrections need to be made are marked with pins, placing them across the seam. After the first fitting, all corrections are transferred to the left side of the product.

Defects of the back and front of the product and how to eliminate them

Defect The cause of the defect Remedies
The product is wide along the chest line. Increased measurement FrII Tuck the fabric into the side seam under the armhole, bringing down to nothing
The product is narrow along the chest line Decreased measurement FrII Release the fabric in the side seam under the armhole, bringing down to nothing
The product along the armhole of the back (shelf) does not fit the figure Insufficient solution of the shoulder (chest) dart, insufficient shoulder slope Increase the solution of the shoulder (chest) dart, increase the slope of the shoulder cut (see figure -)
The product does not fit the figure along the neckline Neck height incorrectly calculated
Transverse creases of the shelf at the neckline at shoulder level Increased neck height Reduce the height of the neckline by taking the excess fabric into the shoulder seam (see picture -)
Inclined creases on the back under the armhole Insufficient inclination of the shoulder sections Increase the slope of the shoulder cuts and, if necessary, deepen the armhole (see figure -)

During the fitting, you need to combine the lines of the middle of the back and the front of the product with the middle of the figure; pay attention to the shoulder and side seams; the shoulder seam should run in the middle of the shoulder, the side seam should run vertically in a straight line, without skewing. If necessary, the seam is ripped open and positioned in the desired direction. The pins are inserted perpendicular to the cut.


a - the product along the armhole does not adhere to the figure,
b - the product does not adhere to the figure along the neckline.

a - transverse creases of the front at the neck at shoulder level,
6 - correction of the defect - inclined creases on the back under the armhole.


a - the product is prepared for the first fitting,
6 - specification of the length of the product,
c - a change in the side seam.

Practical work

Instruction card:

Performing the first try-on

Tools and accessories: work box, sour cream, ruler.

Progress

  1. Put on a robe, pinch off along the line of the fastener, aligning the middle lines.
  2. Check the fit of the product on the figure - fit along the neckline, shoulder seams, along the chest line. Clarify the position of the shoulder and side seams.
  3. Check the direction of the darts, their length and depth.
  4. Refine the width and depth of the neck in accordance with the sketch of the model. If necessary, mark (with soap) the new contours of the neckline.
  5. Check the fit of the product along the armhole.
  6. Refine the length of the product (from the floor using a ruler at the back, side, front).

Questions

  1. On which side is the product trying on?
  2. What is the sequence in which the first fitting is performed?
  3. How are pins pinned if the direction of the seam has changed?

Practical work

Correction of defects after the first fitting

See the table above.

Tools and accessories: work box, product.

Progress

1. Basting stitches over all specified cuts.

2. Remove basting threads from altered seams.

3. Fold the products with the wrong side inward, bending along the middle lines of the back and front, combine the darts, and split the product with pins.

4. Feed copy stitches along the new, modified lines.

5. Cut copy stitches.

6. Sweep the cuts along new lines.

Note:

If, as a result of fitting, changes are made in the direction of the darts, their depth has changed, the location of the pocket has moved, then in these places it is necessary to perform the operations described above.

7. Equalize the seam allowance, cut off excess fabric.

Self-control

Check:

  1. the length and depth of the darts;
  2. the width of the fabric allowances along the shoulder and side cuts;
  3. evenness and accuracy of sweeping lines.

"Serving Labor", S. I. Stolyarova, L. V. Domnenkova

Practical work Instruction card Performing the second fitting Tools and accessories: work box, product. Work progress: Put on the product, pinch along the line of the fastener, aligning the center lines. Check the correct processing of the side and shoulder sections, their direction. Check the length, direction of the darts, the accuracy of their processing. Check the fit of the product along the armhole, neckline. Check the symmetry of the patch pockets. Check the length of the product….


Pockets are of various types: patch pockets, welt pockets, in seams, internal. Most often, patch and welt pockets are used. In appearance, patch pockets are simple and complex, they can consist of one, two or several parts. The figure below shows the most common types of patch pockets: a - simple, b - with a facing imitating a valve, c - with an opposite fold, ...


Cut trims are used to process armholes, necklines and other cuts that have the shape of oval lines, corners, etc. (notches with cape, square). They are cut out after trying on the product, when the shape and size of the cutout for the details have already been specified. The direction of the common thread in the facing and the part must match. Practical work: Instructional card Making a neck trimming Tools and accessories: working ...


Instructions card Tools and accessories: work box, cut products. The sequence of work Processing the side with one-piece rebars 1. Neaten the edges of the rebars sewing machine zigzag or open hem hem. 2. Bend the hem to the front side along the bend line, sweep the lower cuts of the hem, grind. Straighten the corners, turn to the front side, sweep the sides along the line ...


Instructional card Processing of darts Tools and accessories: work box, cut products. Sequence of work 1. Sew shoulder darts, starting from the shoulder cut to the end. Press on shoulder darts on both sides. 2. Press the shoulder darts towards the center of the back, pressing the slack at the end of the darts through a slightly damp iron. Note: Chest straps are treated in the same way. darts. They are ironed in ...

A feature and advantage of individual tailoring is the ability to carry out fittings, during which you can check the correct fit of the product on the figure, clarify the position of individual parts, eliminate defects caused by errors in taking measurements, making a drawing.

Transferring pattern lines to cut details

All contour lines of the pattern and markings can be transferred to the details of the garment different ways... The choice of method depends on whether you need to see the lines only on the seamy side of the cut details, or they should be on front side... It is also important to consider the type and properties of the material.

You can quickly and accurately transfer the pattern lines using a chisel with a wheel and carbon paper (Fig. 73, o), the color of which should be in contrast to the color of the fabric. After cutting, the cut parts folded with the front sides inside with a pattern pinned with pins are placed on the paper laid out with a copy layer upwards and the cutter wheel is drawn along all the contours of the pattern, internal lines and marks. The outline of the pattern should appear on back side in the form of dots. This method cannot be used for fine fabrics.

The lines are also transferred to the second part.

You learned how to carry out the transfer of pattern lines with copy lines (Fig. 73, b) in grade 6. This is a tedious process and is used for fine fabrics or to show lines on the obverse.

Rice. 73. Transferring the lines of the pattern to the cut details: a - by the wheel of the cutter; b - with copying stitches-snares; in - straight stitches; d - pins

The transfer of the pattern lines can be performed using straight stitches with a thread of a contrasting color, the stitches are laid along the track of the wheel, separating the parts (Fig. 73, c).

Experienced tailors use pins when transferring patterns. The pins are inserted through two layers of fabric at the intersection points of the straight lines of the pattern, the cut details are turned over and the points indicated by the pins are connected using a ruler and tailor's chalk (Fig. 73, d). When transferring curved lines, pins are inserted as often as necessary in order to reveal the contours of the line. This method is not suitable for very thin fabrics, as the pins can cause the threads to slip.

Basting the garment for the first try

When preparing a product for trying on, the parts are joined manually with temporary stitches or on a sewing machine with stitches 5-6 mm long, allowing you to quickly separate the parts. This temporary connection of parts is called sweeping. At the beginning and at the end of hand stitches, it is necessary to make two or three reverse reinforcement stitches, otherwise, when trying on, the threads will disperse and the seam will be disposed of. You need to sweep the product on the table, and not by weight.

Basting center back seam

If the product has a middle seam on the back, then before sweeping, the back parts are folded with the front sides inward and, aligning the outlined contours, cleave them with pins, which are placed across the seam. Parallel to the outlined seam line, stepping back 1 mm towards the cuts of the parts, lay straight hand stitches (Fig. 74). Do not sweep the slit under the fastener before trying on.

Rice. 74. Basting the middle back seam

Sweeping darts

If you have chosen a model with darts, you should know the rules for processing them.

To sweep a simple dart (coming from the cut), you need to fold the part right side inward along the midline, aligning the side lines and control notches. Then chop with pins and lay straight stitches along the side line (Fig. 75, a).

To process a solid dart (located in the middle of the Part), it is swept away, starting from one of the ends of the dart (Fig. 75, b).

Rice. 75. Basting of darts: a - simple; b - solid

Basting shoulder cuts

Connecting the back and front, the cut details are folded with the front sides inward, the shoulder cuts are equalized, pinned, and then swept away from the back (Fig. 76). If the back part has shoulder darts, they are processed before sweeping the shoulder cuts and ironed towards the middle of the part. Usually, the shoulder cut of the back is made slightly longer than the cut of the shelf to better fit the shoulder blades. Excess length when sweeping is slightly planted, shortened until a slight bulge is formed.

Rice. 76. Sweeping shoulder cuts from the back

Side sweeping

To connect the product along the side cuts, the backrest and in front are folded with the front sides inward, the control marks are aligned, the cuts are equalized and, chipped with pins, are swept away from the front (Fig. 77).

Rice. 77. Sweeping side cuts from the front

Bodice-to-skirt connection

In products cut along the waist or hips, the bodice is inserted into the skirt so that both parts are facing each other with their front sides. Equalize their cuts along the waist, align the control marks and side seams and pin them off. The details are swept away from the side of the skirt (Fig. 78).

Rice. 78. Sweeping bodice with a skirt

Basting hem

The hem allowance is folded along the bottom line to the wrong side and swept out (fig. 79).

Rice. 79. Basting hem

Practical work number 20

Preparation of the product for fitting

Materials and tools: cut details, sewing thread, needle, thimble.

  • Transfer all contour, internal lines and control points to the cut details in any of the studied ways.
  • Sweep the details of the product, sweep the bottom cut.

Control

  • The contour lines and control points of the garment parts are aligned.
  • The ends of the stitches are well secured.

New concepts

Cutter with wheel, carbon paper, sweep.

Control questions

1. What method of transferring the pattern lines to the fabric did you choose? 2. On what line are the basting lines laid? 3. Why do you need to fasten the ends of the stitches?

"Preparing a product for fitting"

Goals.

1. Correctional educational.

To acquaint children with the sequence of preparing a skirt for fitting.

2. Correctional and developmental.

2.1. To develop the thinking processes of students on the basis of analytical work on a sample product.

2.2. To develop memory and attention in the process of reproducing the order of the sequence of sewing a straight skirt.

2.3. To develop skills and abilities of sewing business.

2. 4. To develop a coherent speech in the process of negotiating operations to prepare a skirt for fitting.

3. Correctional educational.

3.1. To cultivate accuracy, the ability to organize a workplace.

3.2. To cultivate a culture of behavior, discipline, friendly relations in the team.

3.3. To cultivate diligence, dedication.

Visibility. A sample of a finished product, a drawing of a straight skirt, sketches, a pattern, a cut of parts, vocabulary words, a technological chart, instruction cards, rules for safe work.

Equipment. Individual task cards, chalk, measuring tape, scissors, needles, threads.

During the classes.

1. Organizational moment.

2. Repetition-conversation, based on existing knowledge.

2.1. Individual cards - tasks: "Name what is superfluous", "Name shoulder products", "Name belt products”,“ Circle the product we are sewing ”.

Pupils answer verbally. In the last task, you need to circle the skirt.

2.2. According to the “Product Description” plan, the students talk about their products.

  • What products are skirts according to the way they are worn?
  • Skirts are waist-length products.
  • What kinds of skirts are there by purpose?
  • By design, skirts are smart, casual, sports, uniform.
  • What fabric can be used to sew a skirt?
  • For sewing a skirt, you can use cotton fabric, linen, wool.

2.3. Exercise. On the blackboard there are visual aids for the step-by-step production of a skirt. It is necessary to place the defining words under them:

SKETCH DRAWING PATTERN FIT

2.4. Exercise. According to the drawing of the skirt, it is necessary to name the details and contour lines. The student fixes cards with the names of the details of the skirt and contour lines in the drawing:back panel, front panel, mid line, side line, bottom line, waist line, hips line.

2.5. Question ... What kind of skirt-making work did we do in the last lesson?

Answer. In the last lesson, we prepared the cut of the skirt for processing: we laid copy stitches along the contour lines, marked the line in the middle of the parts.

2.6. Exercise. On the cut of the parts, determine which line the copy stitches are not laid on.

Physical minute.

3. Communication of new material.

In the previous lessons, we have already talked about the features of making lightweight clothing. One of them is sewing a product with fitting. At the fitting, we specify the fit of the product on the figure, its volume and length. We will dwell on this issue in more detail in the next lessons. And today we must prepare the product for fitting.

The teacher writes the topic of the lesson on the blackboard, and the students write the topic of the lesson in their notebooks.

What does it mean to prepare a skirt for fitting? This means connecting the details of the skirt in order to try it on before sewing.

The teacher offers to consider a sample of a skirt ready for fitting

For fitting, darts are swept away, side seams along the side lines. On the left side of the skirt along the side line, leave 15cm for the fastener processing. A belt is swept along the upper cut. We notice the bottom along the outlined line.

Details of the skirt, darts are connected with temporary stitches forward to the needle. Make sure the stitches are tight enough so that they don't come apart during fitting. The length of the stitches is 5-6 mm, at the beginning and at the end of the stitch, bartacks are made.

Now let's check how carefully you listened to me.

Exercise. Cards of operational work are scattered on the board. It is necessary to draw up a sequence for preparing a skirt for fitting. Each student offers her own version of preparing a skirt for fitting. During a general discussion of the work plan, the best way is chosen.

The teacher sums up, reads out the sequence of preparing the skirt for fitting according to the flow chart:

- Basting darts of the front panel of the skirt

- Basting darts on the back of the skirt

- Sweeping parts along the right side line

- Sweeping parts along the line of the left side

- Stitching the belt along the waist line

- Bridging the lower edge of the skirt

4. Practical work.

4.1. Occupational health and safety briefing.

Pupils draw out “tickets” with questions on safety measures, answer orally.

4.2. Instructions for the upcoming work.

The teacher explains to the students that during work they need to use technological map, in addition, in front of each student on the desk is an "Instruction card" with detailed description work. The teacher reminds us that the dart is swept away from the sharp end to the blunt end; during work we use sewing terminology for manual work: sweep, sweep, sweep.

The work must be done with high quality, so that during the fitting, the hand seams do not tear. After completing the work, you need to check the quality and compare your product with a sample.

4.3. During work, the teacher supervises the implementation of the assignment and helps the lagging students.

4.4. Physical exercise, gymnastics for the eyes.

4.5. Checking the quality of work.

5. Summing up the lesson.

What did you do in class today?

  • Prepared the skirt for fitting.
  • What sewing terms were used in the lesson?
  • We used sewing terminology for manual work: sweep, sweep, sweep.

6. Anchoring.

  1. Exercise. Tell why the fitting is done.
  2. Exercise. What are the technological operations for preparing a straight skirt for fitting.
  3. Exercise ... The students check and analyze the quality of each other's work.

7. Grades for the lesson.


Preparation for fitting, actually fitting and correction of defects in a clear scheme

I found such an interesting and useful material - I am sharing, but, as usual, I give first of all a link to the site where I found it. there is much more useful stuff than I post - useful for sewing! Models with patterns, modeling, sewing, etc. I always want to have a table with defects at hand, not "running" around the site, because I am godlessly hanging around in reading, forgetting about the promise to myself: "I will quickly look and continue to do" ...)))

Preparation of the product for the first fitting

1. Mark the middle of the back and front panels, sleeves, waist line with a basting stitch.

2. Continue the snare along the main and shaped lines of the pattern.

3. Sweep and grind the wedges (if any), press the stitching seams.

4. Sweep away darts and soft folds, folding and aligning them from the end. Sweep darts from the cuts to the end with small frequent stitches so that they do not move when sewing. If the darts and folds are located in the middle of the part, then we start sweeping them from one end.

5. We sweep the shaped lines (undercuts, reliefs), make assemblies, if required by the style. When joining parts with a stitching or topstitching seam, sweeping should be performed from the side of those parts that have a fabric fit: assembly, curly seams, dissected corners or concave lines.

6. Sweep the shoulder seams of the back and shelves, for an even fit, collect the shoulder seam of the back with small stitches on a thread. You should not place the fit close to the armhole. Sweep the shoulder seams of the right shoulder from the neckline to the armhole, on the left - on the contrary, from the armhole to the sprout, sweep it along the back. Instead of landing the shoulder section of the back, you can make a dart in the middle, which, like the fit, tightens the free fabric of the back, gives a beautiful fit.

In fabrics that can be stretched, we sweep the edge to the shoulder cut of the shelf. The width of the edge is 1 cm, its length is 0.7 cm less than the shoulder cut of the back. The stitch should be 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge of the hem. We do not sweep the shoulder dart for the convenience of stitching it after trying on.

7. In a one-piece dress or blouse, sweep the side seams along the back, starting from the armhole, combining the waistline and hips along the side cuts.

8. If the dress is cut-off along the waistline, connect the bodice with the skirt. To do this, put the bodice in the skirt (folding the front side inward), pin it off with pins, aligning the middle of the back with the middle of the back panel of the skirt, the middle of the front with the middle of the front panel and the side seams, and then sweep it.

9. We sweep the seam of the sleeve, starting from the ridge down. The collar of the sleeve should be 3 - 4 cm larger than the armhole (for a fit. Check it out).

Along the edge of the sleeve, lay basting stitches in two rows (starting from the seam of the sleeve) - the first row is 1 cm from the edge of the edge, the second - 0.5 cm from the first. Pull up the sleeves with hand stitches.

First fitting

If the pattern is made exactly taken measurement taking into account the physique, the product is correctly sourced, then during the fitting there may be minor corrections. We try on the fitting on the right side of the product, and with a versatile figure - on both sides. We pinch the clasp, if any.

When trying on, pay attention to the following:

1. The middle of the back of the garment should be in the middle of the back, and the middle of the shelf - in the middle of the front of the figure.

2. Set the exact line of the waist. To do this, gird the figure with a braid and draw a waist line in the direction of the braid.

3. Pay attention to the overall fit of the product, clarify the direction of the shoulder dart, which should be located towards the center of the chest.

4. Seen from the side, the shoulder seam should sort of divide the shoulder in half.

5. The side seam should run in a straight line.

6. If the product is wide along the waistline, then during the fitting we will lay darts or folds and fasten them with pins. Their length and depth depends on the shape.

7. In a one-piece dress, try on both sides to avoid skewing.

Note: After trying on the side seams, we will open the side seams, fold the product in half, aligning the cuts, fasten it with pins and check the evenness of the correction on both sides of the product.

8. Let's clarify the neckline or the size and shape of the collar. The neckline in the garment should fit snugly against the neck.

9. Let's clarify the shaped lines and the location of the finishing details.

10. Attach the collar pattern to the neckline so that the middle of it coincides with the middle of the back, and the ends with the middle of the shelf.

11. Let's clarify the cut of the armhole by pins or a stroke. Pull off the surplus of the sleeve intended for landing (3 - 4 cm). We pin the center of the ridge to the shoulder seam with the hem of the cut to the side of the wrong side. Distribute the fit of the sleeve on a proportionally folded figure so that there is more of it towards the shelf than towards the back. On a kinky figure, increase the fit to the stick, and decrease it to the back. On a stooped figure, we will increase the fit of the sleeves more towards the back, as the figure requires. When trying on a product, this is a very important area. Take great care.

We will apply control points of the connection of the sleeve with the armhole from the shoulder seam downwards at a distance of 8 - 10 cm towards the back and the shelf. If the center of the collar of the sleeve does not coincide with the shoulder seam, pin the sleeve, as required by the figure, and draw a control point for the connection of the center of the collar with the armhole.

After trying on, we will lay the thread with basting stitches along the armhole of the bodice around the sleeve ridge, which will be the guide line when the sleeve is sewn into the armhole.

12. Let's outline the location and length of the loops.

13. Note the length of the product.

After the first fitting, if there are corrections, mark the side and shoulder seams, fold the back and shelf with the front side inward, bending them along the middle line, combining the shoulder and side sections. Chip the product along the shoulder and side cuts with pins and transfer the marked corrections during fitting from the right side to the left. After correcting the defects noted during the first fitting, we will proceed to sewing the product and preparing it for the second fitting.

What a defect

The cause of the defect

Defect elimination method

1) Excessive slack on the chest at the end of the shoulder dart

Shoulder dart is large

Open the shoulder seam and dart, reduce it by pinning it with pins, and release the excess fabric formed due to the depth of the dart towards the armhole and cut off

2) Slack armholes, shelves and transverse creases

a) Stretched armhole
b) Small shoulder dart

a) Press the stretched armhole, after collecting the cut with a thread
b) Cut the shoulder cut and increase the size of the dart, due to the stock from the side of the armhole

3) The shoulder seam goes back

a) There is a small fit on the shoulder of the back
b) The armhole of the shelf is large (it is m / w stretched or the shoulder of the shelf is slightly cut off closer to the armhole)

a) increase the fit of the back shoulder due to the stock from the armhole side. Sometimes it becomes necessary to make darts 1 - 2 cm deep
b) Release the stock in the shoulder seam of the back, without disturbing the height of the sprout, and take the shoulder seam of the shelf

Sometimes for a stooped figure, it is required to increase the width of the back only at the top, then in this case the pattern for growth must be moved from the fold of the fabric by 1 - 1.5 cm, and applied along the waist line to the fold. Sew small darts in the neckline and reduce them to nothing. In this design, there will be a good shape of the back.

4) Oblique creases at the back armhole

The shoulder height was not taken into account when drawing up a pattern

Cut the shoulder seam and pick up the excess fabric along the shoulder of the back closer to the armhole without disturbing the height of the sprout

5) The side seam is skewed towards the back or front

The product is narrowed along the hips on the back and on the shelf (this happened because the figure was with a protruding belly or hips)

Slip the side seam to the waistline, release the stock of fabric and pin on the figure

6) In front of the bottom line upturned

When creating a pattern, high chest, protruding belly were not taken into account

Open the shoulder seam to release the stock in the shoulder seam of the shelf to the neckline

7) In the bodice there are transverse creases running from the side seam along the side dart

Side tuck not deep enough

It is necessary to increase the side dart

8) The product pulls back, oblique creases on the back, going from the side seam to the shoulder blades

The side seam is incorrectly sour cream a) the lines of the chest, waist, hips, back and shelf do not match
b) or the features of the stooped figure are not taken into account

a) Unscrew the side seam and align correctly the lines of the chest, waist, hips
b) open the side seam. Raise the back higher than the shelves. Deepen the armhole to the armhole of the shelf. To do this, release a stock of fabric along the waist line

9) The transverse hall on the back below the shoulder blades in a one-piece dress

The product is tapered along the hips

Slit along the side seam and release the stock along the hips

10) The neckline does not fit the neck

Small neckline

Deepen the neckline

11) The collar is skewed, twisted

a) One side is stretched
b) Uneven width of the shoulder seams

a) Press the stretched side of the collar or gather it on a thread
b) Fold the product in the middle of the shelf and back and equalize the stock in the shoulder seam, the shoulder seams must match

12) The collar does not fit the neck

a) The neck is stretched
b) Increased neckline
c) The collar is great

a) Tie or crimp the neck
b) Take the excess neckline into the shoulder seam
c) Reduce the collar along the sewing line

13) Creases under the collar on the back

Back shoulder slope more than shoulder height requires

Open the shoulder seam and release the bevel without disturbing the height of the sprout, or excess fabric that runs under the collar

14) In a narrow sleeve, the seam pulls

a) A lot is taken into the seam along the bottom of the sleeve
b) Insufficient fit of the back of the sleeve in the elbow area

a) Release the stock of the back of the sleeve (if the seam pulls back) or release the stock of the front (if the seam pulls forward)
b) In the area of ​​the elbow, make a landing and crimp; if the fabric shrinks, or lay darts along or across the sleeve

15) Transverse creases in the sleeve ridge

Sleeves are high

Decrease the height of the sleeve ridge. When trying on, bend the ridge of the sleeve by 1 - 2 cm. Pin the sleeve to the shoulder seam, along the armhole of the back and the shelf. Refine the height of the dowel, cut off excess fabric

16) Oblique creases in the back of the sleeve

The center of the sleeve is shifted forward or the fit is incorrectly distributed

Move the center of the collar of the sleeve to the back or distribute the fit correctly by pinning the sleeve to the armhole on the figure

17) Oblique creases in the front of the sleeve

The center of the collar of the sleeve is shifted towards the back or the fit is incorrectly distributed

Move the center of the sleeve ridge to the shelf or distribute the fit correctly, pinning the sleeve to the armhole on the figure

18) Oblique creases in the sleeve front and back

Small sleeve height

Cut off the bottom of the sleeve, thereby increasing the height of the sleeve

Second fitting

By the second fitting, all shaped lines, darts, shoulder seams, side seams, a set-in sleeve, a collar, a bodice swept over a skirt, the bottom of the product should be swept and stitched:

During the fitting, we clarify:

1. The length and width of the product.

2. Correctness of the collar in the neck, sleeves in the armhole.

3. The shape and location of finishing parts and shaped lines.

4. Mark the place where buttons, buttons, hooks, etc. are sewn on.

5. Pay attention to the overall fit of the product.

If you sew clothes according to verified templates, and are absolutely sure that the fit and balance of the product will be observed almost perfectly, you still need to perform several fittings. And what about non-standard shapes? In this case, fittings are simply necessary and their number is determined during sewing and depends not only on the complexity of the model, the fabric from which the product is sewn, but also on the professionalism of the tailor. We will tell you how to prepare a product for fitting and how to carry it out correctly.

Important points when trying on products: Dresses and blouses are tried on in underwear, jackets - in a shirt, a coat - in a sweater or jacket.

First fitting: everything is according to the rules!

In order to prepare the product for the first fitting, it is necessary to sweep the darts, seams, transfer with basting stitches to the front side of the half-line of the shelves, the folds of the lapels, the location of the loops (if they are provided in the product), the location of the pockets, patches, etc. If along the back of the dress a zipper is provided, it should be swept in. It is also necessary to sweep in the sleeves. Sweep the allowances along the bottom of the product. If the product has shoulder pads, fitting should be done with them.

Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati
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It is advisable to transfer the basting stitches of the lines of the chest, waist, hips to the front side. This will simplify the process of adjusting the product balance, if required.

Put on the prepared product for the customer (by the customer we mean the person to whom the product is sewn), close the zipper on the dress, on the jacket or jacket, pin off both shelves along the half-nose line, aligning the details along the waist line and along the bottom of the product.

Do not rush to immediately start re-pinching the seams, first carefully evaluate the fit of the product, the balance of the front and back of the product, the coincidence of the horizontal lines (chest, waist, bottom of the product).

What should be done at the first fitting?

At the first fitting, you should evaluate the general appearance of the product and the fit, the width and length of the back and shelves, sleeves, the length and solution of the darts, the location of the embossed seams and decorative details. If the product has sleeves, at the first try-on, you should check the width and length of the sleeve, fold and sweep the sleeves to the desired length, then separate the sleeve from the product and proceed to eliminate defects in the fit, if necessary.

Product balance is an important indicator!

Balance of the product - this definition scares many, but there is nothing difficult here, the main thing is to understand how to correctly assess the balance of the product and how to correct landing defects, if any.

IMPORTANT! If during construction basic pattern you have accurately measured the product, there should be no problems with the balance of the product.

Many experienced tailors use a shoulder pad when taking measurements, which is very easy to sew, but it will be an indispensable aid in taking the most important measurements that form the balance of the product.

Rice. 1. Pattern and cut details of the shoulder pad

Cut out 2 parts of the front and back halves of the lining from a thick fabric without any seam allowances. Fold both pieces, wrong sides together, and overcast along the contour with a zig-zag or overcast stitch.

Sew 4 inlays 0.5 cm wide and 0.5 m long and sew along the markings. Machine stitch with contrasting thread to mark the shoulder seam line.

To fix the waist circumference, sew a tape 0.5 cm wide and a length equal to 2 waist circumferences. When taking or checking measurements, tie an overlay around the neck, and a tape around the waist, fixing the inlines sewn to the overlay on the shelf and backrest.

Rice. 2. Shoulder pad on the mannequin

With the help of such an overlay, it is very convenient to take measurements associated with the waistline, shoulder length and neck girth.

Rice. 3. Taking Measurement Shoulder Length Using Shoulder Pad

So what is product balance? This is the balance of all parts of the product worn on the figure - the correspondence of the shoulder and side seams, the waist line and the chest line and their full compliance with the customer's figure.

The measurements that form the basis of the balance of the product are the length of the front to the waist (RTA) and the length of the back to the waist (DTS). They are also called balance measures.

Rice. 4. Taking measurements Front-to-waist length (RTA)

Rice. 5. Taking measurements Back length to waist (DTS)

There are 3 types of balance: anteroposterior, lateral and balance, characterizing a variety of combination of the supporting part of the part with its lower part.

The most common product defects are associated with a violation of the anteroposterior (or vertical) balance (determined by the waist line) and lateral (or horizontal) balance - determined by the angle of inclination of the shoulder sections.

If balance defects are visible during fitting, it is necessary to chop the shoulder seams (use pins), and outline the location of the seam itself with chalk.

IMPORTANT! If the anteroposterior balance is disturbed, a more complex adjustment is required, which we will discuss in detail a little later.

Check the length of the garment, the location of the raised seams, the location of the pockets and loops. Shallow the neckline of the front, back and armholes (without allowances) with chalk on the right side of the fabric, inject the collar into the neckline. Transfer all changes made during fitting to paired parts.

Second Fitting - Increased Willingness

When preparing the product for the second fitting, it is necessary to grind and iron the darts and embossed seams (except for shoulder and side seams), sew in a zipper, and process pockets.

The second fitting should be carried out in the same way as the first, but the level of readiness of the product is much higher, so you can more confidently make changes, if necessary, compare the resulting silhouette with the sketch of the model and correct the silhouette by narrowing or widening the side seams.

Advice! When trying on, the side seams of the dress will be easier to adjust if you put on the product seamy side up. Pin off the seam allowances with pins, then carefully remove the garment and sew over the basting.

The need for the third and subsequent fittings depends on the complexity of the model, the quality of the fabric and the level of your professionalism. After finishing sewing the garment, remove all basting stitches, pins and wet-heat the garment.

We wish you to improve your sewing skills, because even experienced craftsmen there is always something to learn. Sew beautiful things and wear them with pleasure!



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