Develop a technological sequence for processing a woman's skirt. Development of technology for manufacturing a women's skirt Technological map of manufacturing a straight skirt

11.03.2021 Notes

Based on the technical drawing, technical description and selected textile materials, as well as the methods of processing the main units, the technological sequence of processing the model of a woman's skirt was drawn up. The technological sequence of processing is presented in table 2.

Table 2 - Technological sequence for the manufacture of a skirt

P / p No.	content of indivisible transactions

	Blank section
	Checking the availability of details of the cut of the skirt according to the itinerary sheet
	Duplicating skirt details
	Duplication of the inner part of the belt
	Duplicating the hem of the hem of the front panel skirt
	Duplication of the hem allowance and the allowance in the area of the fastening of the back panel skirt
	Belt processing
	Grinding the outside edge and ends of the belt
	Notching the corners of the belt
	Turning out the belt to the front side, straightening the corners
	Ironing on the belt while straightening the piping along the outer edge and ends of the belt
	Processing the front panel of the skirt
	Sewing relief sections of the front panel of the skirt
	Overcasting a seam allowance
	Ironing darts
	Processing the back panel of the skirt
	Sewing darts on the back of the skirt
	Ironing darts
	Sewing the middle cut to the notch under the zipper
	Overcasting of middle seam allowances
	Ironing out the middle seam allowances
	Sewing "zipper tape" to the allowance of the middle seam of the left half of the back panel of the skirt
	Sewing "zipper tape" to the allowance of the middle seam of the right half of the back panel of the skirt
	Ironing on the fastener allowances
	Adjusting the finishing stitch of the fastener along the edge of the fastener
	Ironing on the middle seam of the skirt
	Skirt lining processing
	Stitching the front and back of the skirt along the side cuts
	Overcasting side seam allowances
	Ironing out the side seam allowances of the skirt
	Stitching the middle cut of the back of the skirt to the notch under the fastener
	Overcasting the seam allowance
	Ironing the seam allowance
	Applying the hem of the bottom of the lining
End of table 2

	Trimming irregularities
	Stitching the hem of the hem of the skirt with a seam in the hem with a closed cut
	Iron-on skirt lining
	Mounting section
	Stitching the side cuts of the skirt
	Overcasting of skirt side seam allowances
	Ironing the allowances
	Chip off the side seams of the skirt, check the symmetry of the darts. Drawing the waistline and hem of the bottom of the skirt. Trim irregularities.
	Sewing the lining along the waist line while simultaneously laying the folds along the notches in the area of the front and back darts
	Sewing the outer part of the belt to the waistline while inserting the hanger along the side seams
	Ironing the seam of attaching the belt
	Adjusting the finishing stitch along the inner part of the belt while simultaneously folding the cut inward into the seam Sewing on the outer belt
	Ironing on the belt
	Applying the location of the loop on the belt
	Buttonhole sewing
	Overcasting hem allowance for hem of skirt
	Sewing hem allowance
	Ironing on the bottom of the skirt
	Finishing section
	Cleaning the product from industrial debris, removing chalk lines
	Ironing on the belt
	Ironing on the back of the skirt
	Ironing on the front of the skirt
	Applying the location of the button on the belt
	Button sewing

Output

According to the assignment test work a model of a women's skirt was developed that meets modern fashion trends. A technical drawing was made with an accurate black and white graphic reproduction of the main lines. The technical description corresponds to construction lines and technological seams.

The choice of materials has been substantiated, taking into account all the requirements for the product and materials that make up a package for a women's skirt designed for the spring-autumn period of socks. The main material is offered - semi-woolen suit fabric. the lining is matched to the color of the base material. As cushioning material a hot-melt glue cushioning material with an adhesive dot coating was used, which allows maintaining the shape of the skirt belt during operation. The confection card contains samples of the materials that make up the package.

Technological processing of the main knots of the skirt reflects the latest developments in the field of technology, based on the technical drawing, the technical description compiled the technological sequence of processing the model of a woman's skirt.

Bibliography

1. Materials science in the production of light industry products / BA Buzov, ND Alymenkova. Textbook for students. higher. study. institutions. - M .: Publishing Center "Academy", 2004. –448 p.

2. Operational machine-automated clothing technology / P.P. Koketkin. - Smolensk, 2003 .-- 232 p.

3. Classification and range of materials used for the manufacture of clothing. Determination of the nomenclature of their quality indicators: method. decree. to the lab. work / Kazan. state technol. un-t, in-t technologies of light industry, fashion and design; comp. L.G. Khisamieva, E.R. Khairullina. - Kazan: Publishing house of KSTU, 2005 .-- 19 p.

4. Technology garments... / Savostitskiy A.V., Melikov E.Kh. Textbook - 2nd ed. revised and additional, - M .: Light and food industry, 1982. - 440 p.

5. Illustrated guide to the technology of light clothing / AT. Trukhanov. - M .: Higher school, 2000 .-- 176p.

6. Fundamentals of sewing production technologists / А.Т. Trukhanov. - M .: Higher school, 2001 .-- 336 p.

7. Sewing products for individual orders / Textbook M .: IRPO: Publishing house. Center "Academy", 2002. - 528 p.

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Introduction

Clothing is a system of material shells, an artificial cover of the human body that protects it from external influences of nature and is a manifestation of the individuality of a person, of an era.

Reflections on the problems of fashion, on the complexity of the ways we resort to shaping our image on a daily basis, make us understand that the informational content of social relations has become much more significant than ever before. Body decoration, clothing, make-up have always been signs of status, power, belonging, but in our time, obviously, the symbolic significance of the body and clothing has increased dramatically. When you think about how little meaning was conveyed by the peasant shirt, which was the clothing of the majority for centuries, how monotonous was the clothing of the working class, which its representatives wore both at work and outside it until the 1950s, then you begin to understand that in the field of clothing there was just an explosive growth in values.

Modern trousers are varied in shape and cut. They can be part of a costume or an independent look, both male and women's clothing... Straight-cut trousers, consisting of a front and a back, are more common. Their length options led to the following varieties: golf pants, bermuda shorts, shorts. Modern trousers can be different in width: widened in some areas or along the entire length, or vice versa, narrowed along the entire length.

Over the centuries, skirts have repeatedly changed their shape and width, but the length began to change only in the 20th century. At times, the skirts reached significant volumes, were pretentious and complex in design, and required special devices.

1. Model sketch

2. Model Description

skirt lining model technological

Ladies' lined skirt made of woolen fabric, straight silhouette, designed for everyday wear. Recommended sizes are 164 - 88-90.

Concealed zipper in the middle seam.

The front panel is straight.

Back panel with a middle seam, with two grooves and a fly-off slot.

There are four belt loops on the belt, two on the front and two on the back.

The finishing line runs along the flyaway slot.

A leather belt with an iron plate serves as the decoration.

3. Thosetechnological sequence

Name of indivisible operations	equipment identification	Waste of time
1. *Launch*
Running cut details
Connect 6 belt parts with adhesive pad	313 "Panonia"
Glue the sections of the front and rear panels with reinforcing tape 6 sections	313 "Panonia"
Glue 1 piece under the slot
Mark 2 darts on the back panel according to the template
2. NS *levki*
Stitch belt loops into tape 1 seam
Stitch belt loops
Iron the belt loop
Cut 4 loops	pattern; scissors
3. *Shelf blank*
Overcast the side parts of the front panel
Overcast the lower cuts of the front panel

*4. Backrest blank*
Overcast the side pieces of the rear panel
Overcast the lower cuts of the rear panel
Iron the bottom cut according to the template
Sew 2 darts along the back panel
Press, press 2 darts on the back panel
Stitch the back panel under the "zipper" and under the slot
Mark the location of the slots and "zippers"
Press the back panel, laying out the cuts along the basting
Iron the slot according to the template
Open the seam of the back, press, press with a corner
Lay out and stitch the ledges with the slot, turn out, straighten the ledges

Lay the OS along the inner part of the splines
Lay out and start the slots, mark according to the OS template along the slot, lay the OS along the slot, fasten the slot along the upper cut, laying out, fix the seam of the splines
Design "lightning"
Sew on zipper 2 seams, unfasten, zip, check match, fasten zipper
Fasten the seam of the back panel under the "zipper"
*5. Preparation of a belt*
Stitch the side cuts of the lower belt
Press the side stitching seams of the lower belt apart.
Glue the UT cut of the belt, planting
Outline and attach the FZ to the bottom
Mark the lines for attaching the belt according to the template, 2 lines on 3 parts
Attach 4 belt loops along the upper edge of the skirt, lay out near the dart 2 times
Sew the belt to the upper edge of the skirt along the basting
Press the 3 seams of the belt stitching open
Sew bottom waistband to zip fastening
*6. Blank lining*
Stitch side cuts of linings	9632-430 "MAUSER"
To describe the middle cuts of the back panel underlays under the "zipper", laying a reinforcing tape, laying out according to the configuration	627-28-1 SD RIMOLDI
To describe the cuts of the back panel underlays under the slot	627-28-1 SD RIMOLDI
Stitch the bottom edge of the backing with a double hem, laying the OS by 0.2, marking the hem manually.
Sew the upper edge of the lining to the lower edge of the waistband, inserting 4 folds, attaching the care label
1. *Mounting*
Stitch side cuts
Iron side seams, press zipper from face and inside
Sew the upper belt to the lower one, setting, carve, turn out, straighten the equal length, fasten the "zipper", put the product into the lining, bending around the "zipper", pushing 4 belt loops
Iron the upper cut, spreading the edge in 4 steps, on the wrong side, press the fit on the front
Topstitch the seam of the waist belt, pushing aside 4 belt loops
Attach the belt to the side seams on the site, turn out, lay out the seams, bending the allowances
Attach 4 belt loops to the top belt
Attach 4 belt loops along the upper cut, fit excess belt loops
Sew on the hem of the bottom, aligning the seams, cut, turning the corners of the slots	KL-45-123 STROEBEL
Fasten 4 belt loops along the upper cut
2. *Final operations*
Clear from industrial debris, zip up
Turn out the skirt
Iron the skirt lining
The final WTO of the upper, put on a trempel + foam rubber
Thread the belt into 4 loops, fasten, tuck the end of the belt under the belt loop, put the belt on the line, fasten the line. Line the trempel
Quality control
Issue a route, delivery to the warehouse
Attach 1 label, 1 to the hook
*TOTAL BY MODEL*

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On the subject: methodological developments, presentations and notes

Lesson "Technological sequence of making a skirt"

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Toolkit. Technological sequence of processing a female jacket without lining.

Women's jacket, elegant cotton satin-stretch, close-fitting silhouette, unlined with a peplum with set-in sleeves, long to the thigh line, with a central fastener ...

Ministry of Education and Science Russian Federation

Federal state educational institution

higher professional education

"East Siberian State Academy of Education"

Faculty of Technology and Entrepreneurship

Department of Technology, Entrepreneurship and Teaching Methods

Direction: 050100

Teacher Education

Profile: Technology

Form of study: part-time

Grebenyuk Larisa Anatolievna

Technological features of making a skirt.

Course work

Head: Mamaenko N.G.

(Full name, academic degree, title)

The work is approved for protection ________________

(date, signature)

Head of the Department ___________________

(Full name, signature)

Defense date _______________________

Mark ___________________________

Irkutsk, 2014

Content

Maintaining

Chapter 1 Justification for Model Selection and Product Manufacturing

1.2 Skirt …………………………………………………………………… .7

1.3 Characteristics of materials, tools and accessories for the manufacture of the product ………………………………………………………… 8

Chapter 2 technology of manufacturing a product

2.1 Organization of the workplace taking into account safety requirements ……………………………………………………………… .11

2.2 Skirt manufacturing technology …………………………………… ........ 15

Conclusion …………………………………………………………… ..24

List of used literature and sources …………………… 25

Application

Introduction

For almost several millennia, people did not even think about separating clothes into women and men. For our ancestors, a loincloth, an apron, a semblance of a skirt served as a cover, regardless of their gender, age and social status. However, over time, ideas about clothing have changed. In ancient civilizations, the skirt was part men's clothing, moreover, among the representatives of the nobility it was longer than that of ordinary youths. That is, with the help of a skirt, men tried to emphasize their importance and social status. Women wore even more long skirts... And in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, women generally did without skirts - the basis of their wardrobe was made up of tunics and raincoats. Everyone knows that gradually, the skirt has become the subject of an exclusively female wardrobe, the only exception, perhaps, is the Scottish kilt.

By the way of wearing, the skirt belongs to the belt products. It can serve as an independent type of clothing, or be part of a set. By design, skirts are casual, home, sports, uniform, for relaxation and for a special occasion.

By cut, they can be straight, flared (or conical) and wedge, by the number of seams - single-seam, two-seam, multi-seam. Skirts are sewn from cotton, linen, woolen, silk fabrics. The choice of fabric depends on the style, the purpose of the skirt, the season. The skirt has changed its shape more than once over the centuries.

Course work topic: "Skirt making technology".

The purpose of the course work is: Develop technological documentation and make a skirt.

Coursework object: Manufacturing technology of garments.

Coursework subject: Technological process of making a skirt.

For the full implementation of this goal, the following are set. tasks:

1.Analysis of literature on the topic of the course work.

2. Develop technological documentation for the manufacture of a skirt.

3. Make a graphic representation of the node-by-node processing of the skirt.

4. Make a skirt.

When performing the course work, the following were used methods:

Analysis, generalization, synthesis.

Chapter 1. Rationale for model selection

For real fashionistas and just lovers of dressing beautifully, it is interesting to know about fashion trends 2014 year.

Skirts of an extraordinary style will be popular: a skirt - a bell, a tulip and a pencil; also A-line skirts and small "school" skirts. The hit of the summer will be maxi skirts (long skirts) and corrugated skirts. The skirts will be quite varied.

At the peak of success in 2014, there will be models of the most unusual skirts in color, style and texture of the fabric.

Mini skirts- they were and will be popular. Short skirts can be classic and bright colors. When choosing a mini skirt, you need to be sure that it will show the features of the figure well and profitably.

Retro skirts ... “Everything new is well forgotten old”, so long forgotten retro is back in fashion. In 2014, tight knit skirts will be relevant. Retro skirts 2014 can be made from various fabrics, but the most fashionable options are retro skirts made of velor, shiny dense silk, or leather-like fabric. The colors of the retro skirts of 2014 can be different: these are monochromatic options, and monochrome, and a cheerful, bright, juicy print.

Floor-length skirts- another trend in 2014. These skirts are suitable for almost all girls. Summer version of long skirts to the floor - these are things made of cotton or linen, they can consist of tiers, with frills and decorative trims of tiers. Floor-length skirts can be straight in silhouette and fit a woman's figure favorably, or they can be wide, flying, light. Even advanced style experts sometimes find it difficult to say how balloon skirt differs from the model called "tulip" - like here and there, there is a voluminous cut and an oval shape. A compromise was nevertheless found: in a shortened form, the skirt should be called "tulip", and in those cases when its length goes below the knee, it becomes a "balloon". Black, white or colored, short or long - pleated skirts good in any form, they are allowed to be worn by everyone and without restrictions.

For a party, a great option would be pencil skirt, which is sewn of leather. For spring and autumn, knitwear will be relevant. And in summer you can pamper yourself with translucent skirts, as well as satin, chiffon and silk skirts.

Classic straight skirts... Skirts of the most ingenuous cut, sewn from rectangular panels and not designed to fit snugly to the figure, are in vogue.

In the 2014 season, a wide variety of skirt models are in fashion, for all tastes and shapes. Every woman can choose her wardrobe from those things that suit her best. From the desire of people to improve clothes, to make them more beautiful, more comfortable.

Changes in fashion are constantly taking place, the period of existence of certain fashion trends in clothing is very short, 2-3 years. Creation fashionable clothes subject to the laws of beauty, convenience and elegance. (Appendix, p. 3-4)

Model Description

Classic style straight skirt made of semi-woolen fabric, tapered from top to bottom. The upper cut is processed with a stitched belt, the fastener is a zipper in the left side seam, and there is a closed slot on the back panel.

Fig. 1 Sketch of a model of a skirt

1.2 Characteristics of materials, equipment, tools and fixtures

The choice of fabric depends on the direction of fashion, the season, the environment, the style of the intended model, the purpose and nature of the work.

The fabric must have the following hygienic properties: air permeability, hygroscopicity, heat-shielding properties, wear resistance, certain strength, resistance to washing, and the ability to form during wet heat treatment.

Therefore, the skirt must meet hygienic, operational, aesthetic, functional and technological requirements. That is, the skirt should protect a person from the effects of adverse environmental factors; to ensure the normal vital activity of the body (skin respiration, gas exchange), ventilation of the underwear layer.

A certain material corresponds to each season. In winter, velvet, tweed and woolen skirts will be fashionable. For spring and autumn, knitwear will be relevant. And in the summer you can pamper yourself with translucent skirts, as well as satin, chiffon and silk skirts. Sheer fabrics will be very popular this season. When making a skirt, the following types of fabric are most suitable:

Velvet

Silk or cotton fabric with a soft, thick vertical pile (length 1.5-3mm) on the front side. It is used for sewing women's dresses, skirts, etc., as well as for finishing, for decorative purposes. Originally velvet was made from 100% silk, but now it is also made from cotton, viscose and artificial fibers. It is produced by adding additional yarn to the base in the form of loops up to 3mm high, forming a pile. When sewing from velvet, pay attention to the direction of the pile. Iron very carefully. Velvet should be purchased of high quality with a dense pile that will not split and fall out.

Chiffon

Thin, silky, heavy-weight plain weave cotton (Appendix, page 5)

Woolen fabrics

Woolen fabrics are produced as pure-woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. Pure-woolen fabrics made of fine wool, which have the best appearance, hygienic and heat-shielding properties, softness and good roll, are highly valued. Fabrics made of coarse wool are inferior in quality to fabrics made of fine wool: they are less wearable, less elastic, and stiff to the touch. Some disadvantage of woolen fabrics is their increased dust holding capacity, which necessitates frequent cleaning of these fabrics.
Pure wool fabrics also include fabrics containing up to 10% of chemical fibers introduced in order to improve the appearance of the fabric.
By the nature of the color, woolen fabrics are produced in plain dyed, multicolored, mélange and printed.
Half-woolen fabrics, in addition to wool, may contain cotton yarn, viscose yarns, textured yarns (melan, crimplen, profiled yarns), chemical staple fibers (viscose, nylon, lavsan, nitron).
In the production of semi-woolen fabrics, two-, three- and more component mixtures are widely used, for example, 35% wool and 65% lavsan; 40% wool, 40% lavsan and 20% viscose fiber.
For sewing a straight skirt, you can use dense narrow and wide fabrics. For the presented product, a semi-woolen fabric was chosen.

Wool blend fabrics containing synthetic fibers are distinguished by a low surface density, low shrinkage, high elastic properties, good fixation of folds (pleated) during wet heat treatment, which remain when worn and do not disappear after washing and dry cleaning. (Appendix, page 5)

Skirt making equipment

Household sewing machine "Chaika" class 142M with electric drive

The machine is designed for grinding parts in the manufacture of products from cotton, linen, synthetic, woolen and silk fabrics.

It can be used for 12 types of different stitches: straight and zigzag stitches, decorative (finishing) stitches, as well as embroidery and darning.

The machine can sew with one needle and twisted pins. With this machine, you can sew on buttons, crochet hooks, buttons, process buttonholes, overcast seams and other operations. The speed of the machine is 1000 rpm. (Appendix, page 6)

Overlock

Universal overlocker Janome 784 / 744d, characterized by the presence of a presser foot pressure regulator and versatility of seams.

Trimming, overcasting and seam finishing in one step! On the finest silk fabrics and satin or dense denim, thick bike and elastic materials. And all this with amazing ease. (Appendix, page 6)

Iron Philips GC 2840

Power 2200 W, water tank volume 300 ml, work surface (sole) steamglide, adjustable steam. Mode functions: dry ironing, vertical steam, steam boost, self-cleaning function, spray function. Features: anti-scale, automatic shutdown. (Appendix, page 6)

Tools and fixtures

1.Hand needles - from # 1 to # 12

2. Thimble - must be metal or plastic.

3. Scissors - must be well sharpened along the entire length of the blade, the ends of the scissors must be completely closed.

4. A centimeter tape - must be elastic with well-marked divisions and numbers.

5. Chalk comes in different colors, the edge of the chalk should be sharpened to 0.1.

6. The ruler should be straight and clean, with well-marked divisions and numbers.

7.Pins are used to fold parts of a group of skirts when transferring lines from one half to another.

8. The pencil must be firm and well sharpened.

9.The needle pad should be soft and well pierced.

(Appendix, page 6)

Chapter 2. Skirt manufacturing technology

2.1. Organization of the workplace taking into account safety requirements

1.When working on sewing equipment and performing wet-heat work, it is necessary to properly organize the work and the workplace. It should be clean, well lit, and the light should come from the left side. The worker sits on a comfortable chair with a back.

2. When performing manual operations, it is good to put a bench under your feet.

3. Each tool is positioned in its place so that time and effort is not wasted on unnecessary movements. Needles, pins, scissors, thimble are placed on the right. Threads, buttons and other accessories that you may need are on the left. The entire middle of the table is free, the product is laid out on it.

When organizing a workplace, one must not forget about safety precautions:

1.All needles and pins should be in special boxes intended for them or be stuck in special pads.

2. Having finished sewing, the needle must immediately be injected into the pillow or into a piece of paralon, laid on the bottom of any small box. In no case should you stick needles and pins into the side of your clothes, your pocket, and even more so, keep them in your lips.

3. When trying on, it is very convenient to put on a bracelet-strip of parolon, to which an elastic band is sewn on both sides, on the left wrist, and stick a few pins into it. Bent, dull, or broken needles and pins should be discarded immediately..

Electric Sewing Machine Safety

-The electric sewing machine must be grounded.

-Before work: remove hair under a kerchief.

-Ends of ties and scarves should not hang down.

-Do not lean close to moving parts of the machine and keep your fingers away from the presser foot to avoid being punctured by the needle.

-Place your feet on the pedal so that your right foot is slightly forward and starts the machine.

- Straighten your back and sit straight on the entire surface of the chair.

-Place the product from the eyes at 30-40 cm.

-Place objects: which are used more often - closer to you, which are taken with the right hand on the right, and those that are taken with the left - on the left.

-Before sewing, make sure there are no pins or needles on the seam line and in the garment.

-Tear off the threads on the product when the machine comes to a complete stop.

-Remove items that are not required for the task.

-Do not be distracted from work while the machine is running.

During work:

-Switching on the electric motor, make sure that it runs smoothly.

-When starting and stopping the machine, put your right hand on top of the flywheel.

-Both hands load evenly with work.

- Move the items by sliding your hands on the table surface.

-Do not thread the machine, change the needle, clean or lubricate the machine while turning it on.

- Observe the working posture, do not bend low towards the machine.

-If the belt has slipped off the pulley, stop the machine by turning off the electric motor.

-If you smell burnt rubber, quickly stop the car.

At the end of the work:

-Turn off the electric motor and stop the machine by pressing the pedal;

-Clean your workplace.

Safety instructions for working with the iron

-Make sure the plug and socket are in good condition, so that there are no knots on the cord.

-Do not connect the device to the network through extension cords and adapters.

-Turn off the devices only by the plug and only with dry hands.

-Work on a rubber mat.

-Do not allow the device to fall.

-In case of overheating, allow to cool down.

-The iron should stand on a special stand.

-Do not touch the heated surface of the device, do not check the degree of heating by touching your hand.

-After completion of work, turn off the device from the network.

Safety when working with a needle, scissors and pins

-Put the scissors on the right, blades.

They should be closed, rings to themselves, so as not to prick on their sharp ends when moving.

-Make sure that the scissors do not fall on the floor.

-Pass the scissors in rings forward, closing their blades.

-Do not place the scissors near moving parts of the machine.

-Store the scissors in a specific place (box).

-Sew with a thimble.

-Store needles and pins in a certain place (special box, pad, etc.) do not leave them at the workplace (table).

-It is forbidden to take needles, pins in your mouth and stick into clothes, as well as sew with a rusty needle.

- Attach the patterns to the fabric with pins directed with a sharp end away from the worker.

-It is forbidden to bite the thread with your teeth.

-Collect the pieces of the broken needle and throw it into a specially designated container.

2.2 Skirt making technology

Preparing the fabric for cutting

When starting to cut, look at the piece of fabric for possible weaving or printing defects. They should not get on the parts of the product. Determine the right side of the fabric. Check the nature and direction of the pattern or pile.

On plain fabrics and fabrics with an indefinite pattern, the patterns of the skirt parts can be laid out in different directions. But if the drawing is directed in one direction, then the patterns are placed with the upper cuts in one direction. When cutting fabrics in a strip or a cage, make sure that they match in color, width, pattern and pass strictly in the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt.

On fleecy fabrics, the patterns are placed in one direction. For example, in a velvet or velvet skirt, the pile should go from top to bottom.

There are two ways to lay fabric: fold and turn.

When laying in a fold, the fabric is folded along, with the front side inward, while aligning the edges. This method is used when cutting wide fabrics.

When laying in a turn, the fabric is laid out unfolded in full width,

face down, or in two layers, face in. This method is used when cutting fabrics of different widths.

Layout of patterns for the details of the skirt on the fabric and cutting

1.To identify fabric defects.

2. Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric.

3. Determine the direction of the warp thread in the fabric.

4. Iron the fabric from the wrong side in the direction of the warp thread (remove folds and wrinkles by wet heat treatment).

5.Fold the fabric to be cut on the work bench.

6. Lay out the patterns of the details of the skirt on the fabric.

7.Own the contours of the patterns of the details of the skirt and outline the seam allowances.

8.Take off the templates and chop off the skirts with pins.

9.Cut out the skirt. Cut the edges of the fabric and fold them together with the cut details. You will need the hem when preparing the skirt for fitting.

(Appendix, page 7)

Technological sequence for making a skirt

1.Preparation of cut details for sweeping.

2.Preparing the skirt for fitting.

3.Conducting fitting. Correction of defects.

4. Processing the skirt after fitting.

Preparation of cut pieces for sweeping

1. Transfer the contour lines from one side of the part to the other side or to paired parts using copy stitches.

2. Draw a fine line in the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt. On the seamy sides of the parts, lay straight basting stitches with a length of 1.5-2 cm along the outlined lines.

3. Cut out two 4x4 cm squares from paper and write on them the names of the skirt parts: front panel and back panel.

4. Basting them alternately with straight basting stitches on the right side of the parts. (Appendix, page 7)

Preparing a skirt for fitting

1.Sweep the side sections of the front and rear panels of the skirt along the outlined lines, while leaving a non-swept section with a length of 16-18 cm in the left side seam.

3. Join the two edges with an open-cut patch seam.

4. Basting the hem to the upper edge of the skirt from the wrong side with straight basting stitches 0.7-1 cm long.

5. Bend the bottom edge of the skirt along the marked hem line and sweep.

6. Check the quality of the sour cream skirt.

Fitting. Correction of defects

Fitting:

1. Put on a skirt. Pin off the opening cut in the left side seam of the skirt with pins.

2. Clarify the balance of the product.

3.Check the width of the skirt at the waist, hips and bottom.

4. Specify the length and location of the darts.

5.Check the location of the upper edge of the skirt.

6. Specify the length of the skirt.

After trying on all chalk lines, lay straight basting stitches, transfer changes from the right side of the skirt to the left using the cutter or copy stitches. Lay out the product on the table and check if the lines are evenly laid on all parts. If the skirt has not undergone any changes during fitting, then proceed to the operational machine processing.

Skirt processing after fitting

Dart processing

1. Determine the middle of the part. On the seamy side, draw a small line in the middle of the part. Run straight basting stitches along it. Stitch length 2-1.5 cm.

2. On the seamy side, mark the darts in turn with three lines: middle, lateral and transverse, limiting the end of the dart. Choose the length and opening of the dart freely. For example: dart length 10 cm, solution 3 cm.

3.Fold the part right side inward along the center line of the dart.

4. Sweep close to the side line of the dart, starting from the top edge to the end of the dart, securing the thread at the beginning and end of the stitching.

5.Stitch along the side line in symmetrical darts - one from top to bottom and the other from bottom to top. When sewing at the top, fasten the dart with a length of 0.7-1 cm.At the end, gradually reduce the line to nothing, leaving the ends of the threads 5-6 cm long and tying them to a knot. Cut off the ends of the threads. Process the second dart in the same sequence. Remove the basting threads.

6. Iron the grooves first, then iron to the middle of the part.

7. Iron the slack at the end of the dart by moving the iron from one place to another. (Appendix, page 9)

Side slicing

1.Fold the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt with the right side inward, equalizing the cuts.

2. Sweep the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt along the marked lines.

3.Start. Remove the basting threads. Iron the seams.

4. Process the seam allowances with buttonhole stitches.

5. Iron the side seams.

(Appendix, page 10)

Processing of the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a tape - zipper

Fold the two parts right side in.
Draw a small line of the side seam at a distance of 2 cm of the cut of the parts.
Sweep the panel along the side line along its entire length.
Set aside 16 cm from the upper cut of the part and draw a horizontal line that limits the length of the fastener. Make a side seam from the horizontal line to the bottom line.
Iron the fabric at the seam. Then carefully smooth out the seam allowances along the entire length. Remove the basting threads.
Direct the open zipper tape under the fold of the slit for fastening on the back panel so that 1 cm remains from the top of the skirt to the beginning of the links, and from the side the fold line approaches the edge of the links. Baste the zipper tape from top to bottom to the end of the fastener at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold with straight stitches 0.5 cm long.
Close the braid - zipper. Sweep its second side, directing the fold of the front panel to the fold of the rear panel so that they coincide.
Sew the zipper tape from the front side from the upper edge of the front panel to the upper edge of the rear panel, laying a line along the front panel at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the fold, and along the back panel, retreating 0.2 cm from the fold. Remove prefix.

Quality control: the machine stitch is straight, laid at the above distance from the folds of the front and back panels. (Appendix, page 11)

Belt processing, processing of the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt

Belt processing

Duplicate the belt with an adhesive pad.

On the seamy side along the entire length of the belt, draw a fold line, it is located in the middle of the width of the belt. (Appendix page)

(Appendix, p.)

The connection of the belt with the upper cut of the skirt. (Appendix page)

Slotted machining.

Closed slots are processed with a facing or a fold allowance. The width of the allowance is 3 -7cm.

In the section from the end of the fastener down, we stitch the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt, ending the line 1 cm below the upper cut of the allowance for slotting, securing the beginning and end of the line with bartacks and sweep in the area of the allowance for the slot to the lower cut of the skirt.

Neaten middle seam allowances and slot allowances from waistline to skirt bottom. On the middle seam of the skirt at the top there are slots in the upper panel neatly make a notch. Iron the seam, at the same time iron the edges of the slots along the swept seam.

Bend the right (top) side of the part, straighten the seam and the slot, press it down. The bottom corner of the upper side of the slots must be stitched from the inside out along the bottom line of the product. The seam allowance in the corner is cut out, leaving 0.7-1 cm. Turn the corner out, straighten, iron out. Sew the slit allowance to the hem allowance. Fold the bottom of the product, hem, making the lower part of the slots 1-2mm shorter than the upper one. (Appendix, p.)

Processing the lower edge of the skirt

After trying on the bottom edge of the skirt, process it with a seam in a hem with a closed edge.

Perform manual processing of the lower cut of the skirt:

On the seamy side of the part, draw two lines with chalk:

A) the first - retreating from the cut of the part 5 cm (allowance for bending the bottom; cut 4 cm + allowance for processing the seam 1 cm);

B) the second - retreating 1 cm from the bottom cut.

2. Lay straight basting stitches 1-1.5 cm long along the marked lines.

3. Mark the allowance for processing the bottom cut along the marked line, retreating 0.5-1 cm from the folded edge.

Quality control: the width of the machining allowance for the bottom cut must be the same along its entire length. After quality control, iron on the swept allowance.

4. Bend the allowance by 1cm and sweep it along the second marked line by 0.1-0.2cm from the fold.

Quality control: the width of the hem allowance for the bottom cut must be the same along its entire length. After quality control, iron the swept allowance for the hem of the lower cut of the part.

5. Unfold the part so that the hem to be hem is directed away from you.

6. Sew blind hem stitches at a frequency of two to three stitches in 1 cm with cotton thread # 50-60 in the color of the main fabric. Insert the needle into the fabric, retreating 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold of the hem allowance, and at the level of this puncture behind the main fabric by half of its thickness. When sewing the following stitches, insert the needle into the fabric where it exits the fabric from the previous stitch.

7. Remove the annotation. Press on the hem of the hem.

(Appendix, p.)

Buttonhole and button sewing

Buttonhole processing

Mark the location of the loop at the front end of the belt from the front side with a small shallow (Appendix page) in the following sequence:

A) Two transverse lines that limit the length of the loop.

B) Cut line defining the direction of the loop.

2.Cut the hole for the hinge along the marked line.

3. Overcast the buttonhole cuts with buttonhole stitches at a frequency of 10-15 stitches per cm. The distance from the needle puncture to the loop cut depends on the fabric shatter and is equal to 0.1-0.3 cm. Place the stitches at the same distance from the cut and from each other, tightening the thread with the same force. At the ends of the loop, carry out manual bartacks with two or three stitches, placing them across the cut line.

Sewing on buttons:

1.Close the zipper.

2.Place the front end of the belt on the back and mark with chalk through the hole in the loop where the button is to be sewn.

3.Sew on the button.

Conclusion

In the process of completing the course work, the literature was studied. The fashion direction of 2014 is considered, the characteristics of materials are analyzed. All materials fully comply with the requirements for the product: hygienic, aesthetic, operational.

The organization of the workplace is considered, taking into account the safety requirements, the equipment used in the manufacture of the skirt and the technological documentation on the topic of the course work is developed.

As a result, a straight classic skirt was made, taking into account the properties and processing requirements of the product.

The objectives of the course work are completed, the goal is achieved.

Bibliography

1. Glozman E.S., Stavrova O.B. and others, ed. Khotuntseva Yu.L. Technology. Technical labor. - Mnemoznina, 2004 VA.-2nd ed., Ster.-M .: Academy. 2004.- 434 p. Il.

2. Egorova R.I .; Monastyrnaya V.P. Learn to sew: Book. For learners environments. shk. age [Text]: / RI Monastyrnaya - M.; Enlightenment, 1988-158s .;

3. Sasova I.A., Marchenko A.V. Technology: grades 5-8: Program. - M .: Ventana-Graf, 2006 .-- 96 p.

4.Simonenko V.D. Technology for 6, 7 grades. - Publishing Center, 2007

5. Trukhanova A.T. Technology of women's and children's clothing [Text]: textbook / AT Trukhanova.-4th ed., Ster-M: Higher school, 2005.-416s.

6. Chernyakova V.N. Fabric processing technology: A textbook for grades 6-9 for general education. institutions. - M .: Education, 2004

Develop a technological sequence for processing a woman's skirt. Development of technology for manufacturing a women's skirt Technological map of manufacturing a straight skirt

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On the subject: methodological developments, presentations and notes

Fig. 1 Sketch of a model of a skirt

1.2 Characteristics of materials, equipment, tools and fixtures

The choice of fabric depends on the direction of fashion, the season, the environment, the style of the intended model, the purpose and nature of the work.

The fabric must have the following hygienic properties: air permeability, hygroscopicity, heat-shielding properties, wear resistance, certain strength, resistance to washing, and the ability to form during wet heat treatment.

Velvet

Chiffon

Thin, silky, heavy-weight plain weave cotton (Appendix, page 5)

Woolen fabrics

Wool blend fabrics containing synthetic fibers are distinguished by a low surface density, low shrinkage, high elastic properties, good fixation of folds (pleated) during wet heat treatment, which remain when worn and do not disappear after washing and dry cleaning. (Appendix, page 5)

Skirt making equipment

Household sewing machine "Chaika" class 142M with electric drive

The machine is designed for grinding parts in the manufacture of products from cotton, linen, synthetic, woolen and silk fabrics.

It can be used for 12 types of different stitches: straight and zigzag stitches, decorative (finishing) stitches, as well as embroidery and darning.

The machine can sew with one needle and twisted pins. With this machine, you can sew on buttons, crochet hooks, buttons, process buttonholes, overcast seams and other operations. The speed of the machine is 1000 rpm. (Appendix, page 6)

Overlock

Tools and fixtures

1.Hand needles - from # 1 to # 12

2. Thimble - must be metal or plastic.

3. Scissors - must be well sharpened along the entire length of the blade, the ends of the scissors must be completely closed.

4. A centimeter tape - must be elastic with well-marked divisions and numbers.

5. Chalk comes in different colors, the edge of the chalk should be sharpened to 0.1.

6. The ruler should be straight and clean, with well-marked divisions and numbers.

7.Pins are used to fold parts of a group of skirts when transferring lines from one half to another.

8. The pencil must be firm and well sharpened.

9.The needle pad should be soft and well pierced.

(Appendix, page 6)

Chapter 2. Skirt manufacturing technology

2.1. Organization of the workplace taking into account safety requirements

1.When working on sewing equipment and performing wet-heat work, it is necessary to properly organize the work and the workplace. It should be clean, well lit, and the light should come from the left side. The worker sits on a comfortable chair with a back.

2. When performing manual operations, it is good to put a bench under your feet.

When organizing a workplace, one must not forget about safety precautions:

1.All needles and pins should be in special boxes intended for them or be stuck in special pads.

2. Having finished sewing, the needle must immediately be injected into the pillow or into a piece of paralon, laid on the bottom of any small box. In no case should you stick needles and pins into the side of your clothes, your pocket, and even more so, keep them in your lips.

3. When trying on, it is very convenient to put on a bracelet-strip of parolon, to which an elastic band is sewn on both sides, on the left wrist, and stick a few pins into it. Bent, dull, or broken needles and pins should be discarded immediately..

Electric Sewing Machine Safety

-The electric sewing machine must be grounded.

-Before work: remove hair under a kerchief.

-Ends of ties and scarves should not hang down.

-Do not lean close to moving parts of the machine and keep your fingers away from the presser foot to avoid being punctured by the needle.

-Place your feet on the pedal so that your right foot is slightly forward and starts the machine.

- Straighten your back and sit straight on the entire surface of the chair.

-Place the product from the eyes at 30-40 cm.

-Place objects: which are used more often - closer to you, which are taken with the right hand on the right, and those that are taken with the left - on the left.

-Before sewing, make sure there are no pins or needles on the seam line and in the garment.

-Tear off the threads on the product when the machine comes to a complete stop.

-Remove items that are not required for the task.

-Do not be distracted from work while the machine is running.

During work:

-Switching on the electric motor, make sure that it runs smoothly.

-When starting and stopping the machine, put your right hand on top of the flywheel.

-Both hands load evenly with work.

- Move the items by sliding your hands on the table surface.

-Do not thread the machine, change the needle, clean or lubricate the machine while turning it on.

- Observe the working posture, do not bend low towards the machine.

-If the belt has slipped off the pulley, stop the machine by turning off the electric motor.

-If you smell burnt rubber, quickly stop the car.

At the end of the work:

-Turn off the electric motor and stop the machine by pressing the pedal;

-Clean your workplace.

Safety instructions for working with the iron

-Make sure the plug and socket are in good condition, so that there are no knots on the cord.

-Do not connect the device to the network through extension cords and adapters.

-Turn off the devices only by the plug and only with dry hands.

-Work on a rubber mat.

-Do not allow the device to fall.

-In case of overheating, allow to cool down.

-The iron should stand on a special stand.

-Do not touch the heated surface of the device, do not check the degree of heating by touching your hand.

-After completion of work, turn off the device from the network.

Safety when working with a needle, scissors and pins

-Put the scissors on the right, blades.

They should be closed, rings to themselves, so as not to prick on their sharp ends when moving.

-Make sure that the scissors do not fall on the floor.

-Pass the scissors in rings forward, closing their blades.

-Do not place the scissors near moving parts of the machine.

-Store the scissors in a specific place (box).