Many modern Japanese women lack the skills to dress unaided: kimono typical woman Consists of twelve or more separate pieces, which are worn, matched and attached in the prescribed manner, and the help of professional kimono dressers may be required by most Japanese women. Summoned to help mainly for special events, dressers and beauty salons create an entire the image of a modern Japanese woman in a kimono at home. Choosing the appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the symbolism of each garment and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion.
Kurotomesode
Black kimono having a drawing below the waist, kurotomesode- the most formal kimono for married women... They are often worn by mothers of newlyweds at weddings. Have Kurotomesode there are usually five kaimon coats of arms, on the sleeves, chest and back.
Furisode (long sleeves)
Furisode(furisode literally translates to swinging sleeves - furisode sleeves average between 39 and 42 inches (1,100 mm) in length). Furisode- the most formal kimono for single women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire garment. They are also commonly worn by unmarried women, female relatives and bridesmaids at weddings and wedding receptions.
Irotomesode
One color kimono having a pattern just below the waist. Irotomesode slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and is worn by married women, usually close relatives of the newlywed. Have irotomesode there may be three or five coats of arms of kamon.
Homongi
Literally translated as clothes for receptions... Characterized by patterns on the shoulders, seams and sleeves, homongi ranks slightly higher than the closest relative, tsukesage. Homongi can be worn by both married and unmarried women.; often the bride's friends will be dressed in kimono homongi at weddings and receptions. They can also be worn by officials.
Tsukesage
Has more modest designs that cover a smaller area - mainly below the waist - than the more formal homongi. They can also be worn by married women.
Iromuji
One color kimono which can be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mostly worn on. Dyed silk can be decorated with weaving (rinzu, similar to a jacquard loom), but has no other color patterns or designs.
Translated from Japanese, the word "kimono" means "clothing". Moreover, all types of vestments were originally called so. But over time, the term was assigned exclusively to "robes", which to this day are worn by many Asians of all ages.
The shape of the traditional Japanese kimono is very long (reaches the ankles) and looks like the letter T. But at the same time, absolutely all the seams are straight. A collar is also present. Sleeve width always different lengths and can tell a lot about the wearer of the kimono. For example, girls of marriageable age have kimonos with long and wide sleeves. Moreover, the length can reach the floor, and the width can be up to half a meter.
How to tie and wear?
The Japanese kimono is wrapped so that the left end is on top of the right. In other words, to the right side. Both women and men dress similarly. And on the left side it is buried exclusively on the deceased.
The soft and wide belt of the Japanese kimono is called the obi. It is wrapped several times around the body and tied at the back with an intricate bow. If the knot is in front, then the girl wearing a kimono is a representative of the ancient profession- joro. It should be noted that not all shoes are suitable for Japanese clothes (you should forget about modern ones), but only traditional ones. It is called zori or geta. And usually the kimono is worn in the "plural". That is, under the top, which is the most richly decorated, they put on several lower ones that look worse. They got the name "nagajuban". Now you know how to tie and wear a Japanese kimono. Let's go further.
History of origin
The Japanese kimono was coined from the Chinese national Hanfu costume in the 5th century. n. NS. It was at that time that cultural ties were actively developing between these Asian countries. Well, the kimono got its final look in the Heian era, which lasted from 794 to 1192. Since appearance traditional Japanese clothing has remained unchanged.
All women's kimonos are made in the same size. Well, only then the owners themselves adjust the clothes to their figure, tucking it in the way that suits them. The Japanese costume is sewn from one piece of fabric, which was made by hand in the old days. It was also embroidered by hand, so it cost a lot of money and was worn very carefully. Now in Japan, for sewing a traditional costume, they produce a special fabric of a certain width and length. It only needs to be cut into rectangles and sewn.
Washing
In ancient times, in order to wash a Japanese kimono, it was ripped open and then sewn again. Modern methods of cleaning fabrics have negated this need. Although in some places the traditional Japanese costume continues to be washed the old fashioned way. To avoid unnecessary wrinkles, wrinkles and tangled layers of Japanese clothing, they are swept away with loose and large stitches.
Female and male
Over the centuries, many of the most different options colors, fabrics and shapes of traditional Japanese costumes. There are also different styles of kimono - from the frivolous to the most officious. Formality of traditional women's clothing is primarily determined by model, fabric and color. The sleeves on the kimono for the girl are much longer, for the older Japanese woman. In addition, traditional youth clothing is much more difficult in terms of stitching.
The Japanese kimono (for men) has only one shape and is sewn exclusively from fabrics of muted colors. And the formality of clothing is determined by the color and type of accessories, the type of fabric, as well as the number (or absence) of family crests. The most desirable fabric for a Japanese costume is silk. He is the most semi-official. Cotton takes the second place. And the third is polyester, of which kimonos are quite rare.
Nowadays, both men's and women's traditional costumes can be purchased in the required size. Since the Japanese kimono is sewn from one roll of fabric, it is very difficult to find clothes. big size... Well, it will be quite expensive to sew a large suit. It is reliably known that all sumo wrestlers have tailored clothes.
Price
The cost of a traditional Japanese costume can easily exceed the $ 10,000 mark. Well, the price of a complete set (ties, tabi, sandals, obi and underwear) sometimes reaches 20 thousand dollars. Even one belt, made in a single copy, can cost as much as a whole kimono.
However, many Japanese costumes owned by historical reenactors or collectors are cheaper. The activists make their own clothes: they alter the old one or use the standard one as an example. Well, dyed silk is replaced with machine-woven fabrics. In the domestic market, such a worn kimono costs about ¥ 500, and a patterned women's obi costs ¥ 1,500. Men's belts are short and narrow, so their price is much lower.
Exploitation
Kimono has never been wasted in Japan. Old clothes are used to make various things:
- Children's kimono.
- Haori.
- Handbags and other accessories are made from large pieces of fabric.
- The fabric is also used to repair a similar kimono.
If the traditional Japanese costume was damaged below the waist, it could be worn with hakama - wide trousers that looked like a skirt. There were also craftsmen who managed to dissolve the spoiled kimono along the strings and weave them into new fabric equal in width to the male obi. This method of renewing clothing was called saki-ori.
Modern period
Nowadays, kimonos are usually worn only on formal occasions and, as a rule, only by girls. Older women (and some men) wear traditional Japanese clothing for daily basis... Also, kimonos are worn by professional sumo wrestlers every day. In public outside the ring, they are required to wear it. And kimono is also worn for tea ceremonies, weddings, various sports competitions (kendo, etc.), New Year, seeing the dead, National holidays, graduation from a university or school, etc. By the way, for a foreign tourist with a camera it is considered a great success to meet a Japanese woman (Japanese woman) in a kimono on the street.
In the Land of the Rising Sun there are a lot of "kimonomaniacs" who love to wear traditional clothes and attend courses where they are explained how to do it correctly. In the classroom, they tell in detail about the history of occurrence, the choice of appropriate clothing for the upcoming event and season, methods of tying obi, fabrics and much more.
Sources: http://youkata.livejournal.com/611.html
http://www.liveinternet.ru/community/2332998/post140658009/
http://costumer.narod.ru/text/japan-tradition-dress.htm
http://www.yoshinoantiques.com/newsletter_kimono.html
And in great detail and interesting here: http://maria-querrida.livejournal.com
+ various sources of images
This fully applies to the kimono, which gained great popularity in the world in the 20th century. The type of cut, silhouette, individual details and motifs were actively used in international fashion, but the kimono itself in its traditional form to this day remains for foreigners one of the most difficult areas of Japanese kimono culture. Much has been said and written about the fact that the kimono visually corrects the proportions of the body, but it is not only about creating the illusion of slimness. Kimono not only regulates the pattern and rhythm of movements, but is also a kind of focus of national psychology. The Japanese woman in kimono embodies the standard of restrained grace, soft femininity and modest charm.
Any national costume in one way or another reflects the peculiarities of the material and cultural life of the people, including the national character.
Kimono décor is always associated with the seasons and reflects the poetry and symbolism of natural phenomena.
The kimono still remains in modern Japanese life, albeit in a very limited way. Most often, the national costume is worn in connection with festive and solemn events. Elegant, bright kimonos with fur trim on the collar can be seen on modern girls in the New Year. The same beautiful kimono without fur is worn by many for the official ceremony on the Day of Majority, which is celebrated in January by 20-year-old Japanese.
The process of putting on a real kimono is a kind of creative act that reveals not the figure of a person, but the peculiarities of his character. The kimono wraps the body tightly, cultivating patience and resignation. Long hemlines, wide sleeves, and a tightly pulled waistband change the way a person moves, making them unhurried and soft like a cat's.
Wearing a kimono is a special science. The back is straight, the chin is slightly tucked in, and the shoulders are relaxed. Movements should not be sweeping and sharp. In no case, even by accident, should you show your legs or other parts of the body hidden under clothing. This is not appropriate. The wisdom of this rule lies in the fact that it makes young and old women equal, hiding the tarnished beauty of the latter and the attractiveness of the former. The Japanese believe that a woman acquires a different beauty over the years, and the kimono becomes a wonderful shell for this casket of spirituality. Traditionally, the art of dressing a kimono is passed down from mother to daughter, but in modern Japan, specialized kimono schools are engaged in preserving this ancient tradition, which provide various courses for mastering the difficult science of dressing a kimono.
Yukata
Summer lightweight cotton kimono with a printed pattern. Yukata is worn by both women and men. This is the simplest of all kimonos.
Furisode
- girl's festive kimono. Previously, only a virgin or a girl under 20 could wear a furisode, after which it was required to change the type of kimono. V modern society furisode - clothes of unmarried girls regardless of age.
Ushikake - wedding cape Today's usikake (uchikake, uchikake) is a luxurious long cape, worn over a kimono, trimmed along the bottom with a roller of scarlet (less often gold) fabric to glide more gracefully on the floor. Currently, the term ushikake is only used for the bride's top kimono. Prior to the Edo period, ushikake was worn as casual and formal wear (depending on decor and material) by nobility and women from samurai families. At the end of the 19th century, ushikake began to be called the top kimono worn at the wedding ceremony. Ushikake is sewn from brocade or silk, lined with cotton wool, has long sleeves(more than 1 meter), not tied with a belt, not tucked, using the entire length of the dress. In ancient times, a kimono could be tied with a belt, picked up, and also several ushikake could be worn at once. There were also male varieties of ushikake, which were not inferior to female ones in pomp and brightness of decor. Such costumes were worn by courtiers or at receptions in the imperial palace until 1870.
Tomesode
- kimono married woman
A strict kimono with short sleeves, usually black, with a wide patterned stripe along the hem and five monastic family crests. It is worn on family formal occasions.
Colored tomesode is called "iro-tomesode", it is less strict and solemn.
Tabi: high socks (up to the ankles) with a special compartment for the thumb, usually worn with zori.
Zori: woolen, leather or straw sandals. Dzori can be richly decorated or very simple. Such shoes are worn by both men and women. The straw zori with white straps is the most formal footwear for men.
Geta: wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata. Also, geta were worn by geisha, but they had a different shape.
Obi: belt for kimonos and yukata. It is about 30 centimeters wide and takes up space from chest to waist. it is wrapped several times and tied with a decorative knot at the back. It has a decorative function, underneath there is also a belt that holds the kimono.
And a little about the rules for wearing a Kimono. A lot, difficult in Asian, but very interesting:
From the blog http://maria-querrida.livejournal.com/39337.html
+ slightly supplemented with pictures
Everything is very complicated in the hierarchy of the kimono and the rules for wearing it, but if you understand them, then everything turns out to be quite logical. The most important aspects of the art of wearing a kimono are as follows:
Carrier gender
- age
- a living person / deceased
- event (wedding, funeral, anniversary, etc.)
- season
- class affiliation \ own taste
These are the main milestones to build upon. For example, how living people dress and how the dead are dressed are two big differences, and for example, if we see a person in a pure white kimono and obi, then it can only be an actor in the role of a ghost. Living people never dress like that. Or if a lady over 40 dresses in a bright furisode, then this will only cause bewilderment.
The main means of expressing the kimono language are fabric, color, pattern and shape. For example, the younger the person, the brighter the color and the higher the motif of the pattern spreads from the hem to the waist. Sleeves indicate gender and age, the color and pattern of the hem are responsible for the degree of formality, wearing a collar demonstrates a person's taste. All this together and a bunch of nuances create the whole picture.
Differences in gender and age
Here the main role is played by sleeves, their length and shape. In men, they are short and with an acute angle, in married women they are slightly longer and with a rounded corner, in girls they are very long and with a round corner, in children they are short and with a slightly rounded corner. The degree of sharpness of the angle, as it were, determines the social status. For men it is higher than everyone else, for girls it is lower than everyone else. In this sense, children are, as it were, higher in the hierarchy than girls, because they are forgiven a lot of things that are unacceptable for adult girl or a teenager. The second is obi. For men, the obi is narrow, for women it is wide, and the male and female obi are tied in different ways. Also the kimono of women is sewn longer than growth and the excess is tucked into the belt, while the kimono of men is always sewn according to the height of the person without the excess. As for the shoes, everything is like with the sleeves: for men, geta with square corners, for women with round ones.
For men
for women
for girls
for kids
The dead, or how you can't dress a living person
The only ones wearing a pure white kimono are the brides and the dead. The difference is that brides wear gold or silver obi or colored capes over a white kimono. This similarity has its own deep meaning, since both those and others, as it were, end one life, and pass into another. Also, if usually people wear a kimono with a wrap from left to right, then a kimono is worn on the deceased only with a wrap from right to left.
Formality
The most complex and confusing aspect of the modern kimono. In Japanese society, there are many different degrees of formality of an event, and each has its own dress. In general, the kimono itself is formal clothing, not very casual. But even among the kimono there are many subclasses and differences in the degree of solemnity. Roughly speaking, the kimono can be haregi (formal) or fudangi (relatively informal). Fudangi is divided into streetwear and informal. Informal kimonos are usually worn at home and made from wool, cotton, satin. Street kimonos can be made from crepe, wild silk or heavy cotton, the color being printed is only allowed.
Haregi is classified into two large groups: ceremonial kimonos and formal kimonos. The degree of formality within each subclass is determined by the color, the presence / number of crosses and the type of their application, the type of ornament and its placement. Among formal kimonos, the main insignia is the presence / absence of crosses.
Crosses are such badges that are placed on the back below the neck (one cross), on the back of the upper part of the sleeve (already three crosses) and on the front of the sleeve in the region of the collarbones (five crosses). In general, crosses are family coats of arms by origin. They can depict a stylized sign of the genus, or they can just be a cross in a circle. In modern Japan, it doesn't matter what the cross represents, the main thing is that it should be)) In the Heian era, personal belongings were marked with crosses, under Kamakura samurai sculpted them on banners and weapons to distinguish their own from enemies. Initially, crosses were worn only by noble nobles or Kabuki actors, whose crosses served as the hallmark of the profession. Today, crosses are an important indicator of the formality of the kimono. There are over 8,000 cross designs.
Formal kimonos are of three degrees: without crosses (tsukesage or oshare homonga colors), then with one embroidered (!) Cross (yuzen tsukesage or iro muji colors), and the most formal among formal (hehe) is with one drawn (! ) with a cross (colors of yuzen tsukesage or iro muji). That is, if only one cross is applied to a kimono, then it is formal, if more, it is already ceremonial.
Ceremonial kimonos are divided into full (seiso) and incomplete (reiso). Incomplete ones are either homongs with three crosses, or iro tomesode with three and five crosses, respectively. Full (seiso) are divided into seiso for unmarried girls and for married ladies. For girls, this is only furisode, and the formality is determined by the length of the sleeve. The longer, the more formal, and there are only three degrees: almost to the floor, a little higher and even higher. There are no crosses on a furisode. The seiso of a married lady is only a black tomesode with three or five crosses.
Now let's figure out what makes a kimono formal.
First, the material. Formal kimono can only be made of shiny silk. Matte silk and any other fabric are informal.
Secondly, the colors. Basic rule: the smaller and more often the drawing is located, the less formality
As for the choice of motifs for drawings, for formal wear they use traditional Japanese motives of nature, objects, scenes from classical literature, and on more informal kimonos you can see a variety of ornaments
In addition to everything previously described in the definition of formality, the kimono is very important Colour... In ancient times, the value of the color of the dress was especially great. For example, red and purple robes meant belonging to the imperial family and were forbidden for the rest. Nowadays, there is a big difference between black and colored kimono. Reiso (incomplete ceremonial) can be colored, and seiso (complete ceremonial) only black. The most formal female kimono is a black tomesode with a pattern only on the hem and with five crosses (monks). A slightly inferior option in terms of formality - everything is the same, but in color (iro tomesode). For example, at a wedding, the bride's closest relatives should be in black, while her married friends may be in iro tomesod. For girls, the degree of formality is indicated by the length of the sleeves; color does not play such a role here.
Stand apart funeral kimonos- mofuku. There is also a whole hierarchy, depending on the closeness of the person's relationship with the deceased and the closeness of the date of the funeral. Funeral kimonos are also divided into ceremonial and formal. The ceremony is worn by the relatives of the deceased, formal mourning - by friends and colleagues. According to the degree of mourning among the ceremonial, the most formal is a black kimono with 5 crosses + a black obi. This is the deepest mourning possible. For example, his wife puts it on at her husband's funeral. The ceremonial half-mourning is worn by the relatives of the deceased. It can be anyone dark color no pattern with 5 or 3 crosses + black or colored obi. In general, the more black there is in the outfit, the closer this person was with the deceased. Drawings of a contrasting color (even white and gray) are not allowed in the mofuku ensemble. Thus, by varying the degree of mourning, a person expresses his closeness to the deceased.
Mourning also changes over time. For example, a wife wears all black on the day of her husband's funeral, i.e. complete mourning. But at the commemoration on the 49th day after death, she can already wear, for example, a burgundy kimono + black obi, that is, half mourning. The late husband's secretary will dress like this for the funeral itself, because she was in a more formal relationship with the deceased. The degree of mourning of a monochrome colored kimono varies with accessories - shoes, belt, obi. The more black they have, the more mournful. The black obi belt on a colored kimono is the last remnant of mourning, when it is also replaced with a colored one, it means that the mourning is over.
About obi
.
The basic rule is that expensive brocade or painted obi go only with formal kimonos, while with the help of obi you can either increase or decrease the formality of the same kimono. The most formal obi is the maru obi, 4 m long and 70 cm wide. Because of the pain of tying it and because of its inconvenience, this type of obi is rarely used. Fukuro obi (the next in formality) with a width of about 30 cm is more common. It is easier to wrap it up. But the most convenient is the nagoya obi (next in formality after fukuro), which is already sewn on the long side to the "wearable" width, so it is very easy to put on. Depending on the material and design, this obi can be worn to a formal kimono or even to the lower ranks of a ceremonial one. Also, the obi relies on accessories - a scarf and a cord. The scarf is tucked under the obi so that the edge sticks out. And the cord is tied directly on the obi.
maru obi fukuro obi
nagoya obi
Shoes.
Here, in general, everything is simple. There are two types of shoes: geta and dawns. The geta are wooden with two stumps, the dawns are round with a flat sole and often covered with fabric. Dawns are formal, geta are informal. Dawns are worn only with white tabi socks, geta more often without socks, although some expensive geta can, in principle, be worn with socks for an informal kimono. Geta is only worn outdoors, and in some hotels, restaurants and shops high level it is even forbidden to go to the geta because they clatter loudly. In the dawn, you can appear anywhere. The formality of the dawns is determined by the material they are made of, as well as the height of the platform. The higher the platform and the more expensive the material, the more formal it is.
Another element of women's wardrobe, which at one time was borrowed from men, is the haori jacket. It can be worn over a kimono. Haori sets the kimono a serious tone, formalizes it very much, just like a jacket in a European suit. A black haori with a plain kimono can serve as an easy option for mourning.
Age differences.
So, first, let's take a look at what age categories there are. The main age stages the following: babies and children up to 10-11 years old, a teenager from 11 to 17, a girl / bride - 17 (at the end of school) - 23 (before marriage), a young woman (from marriage to the birth of the first child), an adult woman (where- then until the age of menopause), and then all elderly people, regardless of gender, fall into the category of nennai no kata, that is, simply elderly.
Babies and young children are dressed almost the same regardless of gender. The girl becomes a teenager by undergoing the ritual of "entering the temple" Juzan Mairi on April 13 in the year when she turns 13. On this day, for the first time she wears a furisode with an adult obi and if her mother did not choose child drawing, then she can wear the same kimono until the age of 20. At the age of 20, the girl undergoes the seijin shiki growing-up ritual, after which she officially becomes an adult. The ideal girl is innocent, submissive, obedient, restrained and cheerful. These qualities are traditionally expressed by furisode
Formally, the furisode is equal to the female black tomesode, so it also has features in common with it. For example, furisode also has a basic base color of the background (hot pink, acid green, bright blue, red) + an asymmetric pattern over the shoulder to the hem (homongi). The plots are also appropriate for youth - butterflies, flowers, spirals, birds. For girls, the pattern jumps along the upper and lower parts of the kimono, and the older the lady, the closer the pattern descends to the hem. Another marker of age is the collar, or rather the way it is worn. A girl should wear it close to her neck, so that it extends from the base of the neck no more than a fist's width, because the back of the head is an erotic part of the Japanese body, and a decent girl should not show it. The front of the collar should be wrapped wide and high towards the neck, forming a wide V.
As for the obi, that is also the most possible different colors and patterns. The main difference is that if women wear an obi almost always with a standard taiko knot, then girls can tie it as they like - a butterfly, wings, a turtle, or even a propeller, the main thing is to look like a gift in a package. Youth is the time of matchmaking and weddings, so you need to have a "marketable" appearance so that when looking at a girl, a potential groom has a desire to unfold the "package" and see what's inside.)) The higher the obi is tied, the younger the owner, although the height of the obi - not quite an indicator of age, but rather of sexual experience. Let's just say, the lower the obi, the more experienced woman... An unmarried girl's scarf peeks out from under the obi very strongly, the cord is also tied high.
After marriage, the girl goes into the category of women (regardless of the calendar age). Bright furisode is a thing of the past forever, a woman will never wear it again. Now she can only wear Iro Tomesode or Black Tomesode. The colors of the tomesode are more restrained, the sleeves are less rounded and shorter. Calm, restrained, elegant, respected, full of dignity - these are the characteristics of the ideal woman, expressed in her outfit. In young women, the pattern can be bright and rise high to the waist from the hem, and with age, the older the lady, the closer the pattern is to the bottom. In general, everything becomes lower - the collar, front cutout, obi, cord and even a scarf. All of this expresses her sexual maturation. In young women, the cord is tied somewhere in the middle, the neckline drops slightly, forming a narrow V, the scarf is almost invisible from under the obi. For older ladies, the neckline is still narrower, the obi is lower, the cord is tied at the bottom of the obi.
According to the rules, a woman can dress a little "older" than she is, but she cannot dress "younger". However, many try to "knock off" their heels with the help of clothes, although this is very difficult. After all, if the discrepancy is noticeable to others, then it will look ridiculous and indecent. So it goes))
Often, those of modern women who do not get married before the age of 30 make a career, etc. choose the opposite tactics - dress a little older than they are, and thus get a decent and comfortable outfit for themselves.
The clothes of geisha stand out. In general, geisha are like the last stronghold, keepers of the traditions of kimono and the only one who wears a kimono both at work and just like that in everyday life. Since geisha are special creatures, their clothes are a strange mixture of different signs. Basically, the outfit of a maiko (training geisha) is similar to that of a young girl's furisode. He also has floor-length sleeves, bright colors with patterns all over the field, which emphasizes youth. The neckline is wrapped high at the neck, the scarf peeks out strongly from under the obi, the cord is tied just above the middle. But the back of the gate is pubescent almost to the beginning of the shoulder blades (which is terribly sexy in their understanding). Also maiko is only worn full version obi - maru obi with a very large knot.
Seasonality.
This is a very interesting aspect of wearing a kimono. Everything here is also very complicated, but in short, wearing a kimono for the seasons not only reflects the needs of the weather, but also has an aesthetic meaning. Each season has its own fabric and patterns. All kimonos are divided into simple (cunning) and lined (awase). Cunning is worn from June to September, the rest of the time - avaze. Previously, there was even a special koromogae ceremony - a change of wardrobe, when the clothes of one season were removed and others were taken out.
Next comes the material and color, and lastly the drawing. Each season (a couple of months) has its own pattern, and the general rule is this: the type, fabric and color of the kimono should correspond to the month of wearing, but the pattern should be from the next month, it should always, as it were, anticipate the coming season. If this is not the case, then this is an indicator of emotional poverty and poor taste in the host. All this together allows you to adapt to specific weather. For example, if October ( autumn month) turned out to be hot, then you can continue to wear smart, but then the colors should be chosen darker and the pattern is clearly autumnal (leaves, geese, orchids). Or if May (spring) is hot, then you can start wearing a smart ahead of time, but it should be made of dense crepe, because it is not yet time to wear silk.
Seasonal drawings:
January / February - pine, plum, bamboo
March / April - cherry, butterflies, viseria
May / June - iris, willow, birds
July / August - seashells, waves
September \ October - grass, maple, chrysanthemum 
November / December - bamboo in the snow, pine needles, ginkgo. 
The combination of obi and kimono is also determined by seasonality, while it is impossible for both there and there to have the same motive. Motives should be different in appearance, but combined on a more subtle level. For example, a kimono with cranes + obi with a tortoiseshell pattern (a turtle and a crane are symbols of longevity), or a kimono with flowers + obi with waves, or a kimono with a river wave + obi with stylized water irises.
Of course, today only geisha or kimono fans can have an entire wardrobe to dress so diversely. The bulk is limited to a pair of kimonos and obi for special occasions. Perhaps that is why nowadays, plain kimonos are more popular, which are easier to vary in formality and seasonality with the help of obi and to get an appropriate outfit every time.
Kimono
In Japanese, "kimono" in the broadest sense of the word means "clothing", more precisely, National clothes, unlike the European one, which is called "yofuku". "Kimono" is a collective concept, there are several varieties of them: firstly, for men and women, and secondly, top ones (which, in turn, are subdivided into kimonos with long, up to one and a half meters, sleeves - furisode and short ones - kosode ) and lower, as well as home and sleeping - yukata. In principle, they are all a straight-cut robe with wide sleeves, wrapped around the chest on the right side, both for men and women. On the left side, the kimono is wrapped only on the deceased before burial. Men fix the kimono with a sash on their hips, tying a knot on the right or back. Women's belts - obi - are located at the waist and above it and are tied with a wide fluffy bow at the back. Men's kimonos, not significantly differing from women's ones, are sewn, as a rule, from fabric of muted tones, with a sparse ornament. The colors of women's kimonos can be any. It all depends on taste, mood, season and the occasion for which the kimono is worn. The primary basis of this original, peculiar outfit was continental (China, Korea, Mongolia) samples, borrowed and adapted to the Japanese climate and way of life. This is typical for the history of the country as a whole. Elements of foreign culture were creatively melted, acquired a new character and gradually became an integral part of Japanese tradition... The author of the medieval novel "The Unsolicited Tale", a lady-in-waiting, describes her toilet as follows: finery : a brown lower kosode, on top of it - a set of eight others, reddish, gradually turning into lilac, then a scarlet patterned robe with sleeves decorated with gold and silver embroidery, then a spacious upper kosode with a yellow lining and, finally, a ceremonial blue cape " With the advent of the military class in Japan (13th century), excessive luxury disappears from the everyday clothes of the nobility. The stern and practical military style of dress occupies the dominant position. with its material and spiritual culture, which later became the basis of what is commonly called traditional Japan.By the 17th century, the kimono became a universal clothing for both women and men of all segments of the population. , but, quick-witted and resourceful, they have learned to cleverly bypass these prohibitions. a conspicuous and even worn kimono made of plain fabric could have a luxurious brocade lining. The wealthy artisan wore several others, expensive and beautiful, under his modest outer dress. At the same time, this ban gave impetus to the emergence and development of specifically Japanese aesthetics. They began to find charm and charm in the simple and discreet. With the penetration into Japan at the end of the 19th century. European kimono culture had to make room. There were fears that it would disappear altogether, but this did not happen. Having yielded to the European costume for everyday service, the kimono became an item of luxury and prestige, it turned into a ceremonial dress, worn on especially solemn occasions. A good kimono is very expensive. The material for it is usually woven and painted by hand. In this case, a gimp of silver and gold is used, and when dyeing, a powder of gold and silver powders is used. Only a master will undertake to sew a ceremonial kimono: it is necessary to select pieces of fabric so that the pattern organically flows from the back to the chest and sleeves and gives the impression that this is not just clothes, but something more - a finished work of art. Precious old kimonos take pride of place in museums, are carefully kept in families, passed down from generation to generation. Only very rich people can maintain a traditional wardrobe in modern Japan, as well as actors of traditional No and Kabuki theaters, for whom a kimono is a stage costume, they are paid a state subsidy to purchase it. Ceremonial kimonos are sewn from standard pieces of fabric, so they are all about the same size. A kimono bought in childhood by a Japanese woman can be worn for the rest of her life and then passed on to her daughter or granddaughter. The length is adjusted by picking up the excess under the belt, and then releasing it as the hostess grows. Homemade kimonos - yukata - are sewn with an approximate account of growth. An important detail of the traditional dress is the obi belt. It gives the kimono completeness and massiveness. As a rule, a special piece of brocade or dense silk, four meters long, is woven for the belt, with a particularly rich pattern in the front, where the belt fits snugly to the figure, and in the back, where it is tied with an intricate knot. There are several ways to tie a belt. In former times, the shape of the knot indicated the class belonging of the Japanese woman, but now it depends only on her taste and skill. Top ceremonial kimonos are sewn of brocade, silk on a contrasting color lining. Winter kimonos can be worn on cotton wool. For a home kimono - yukata - one layer of cotton fabric with a discreet blue and white ornament is usually taken. The belt is made in a contrasting color: if blue tones predominate in the yukata - red or white, and if white - blue or red.
Japan from A to Z. Encyclopedia... EdwART. 2009.
Synonyms:See what "Kimono" is in other dictionaries:
- (Japanese 着 物, kimono, "clothing"; Japanese 和服, wafuku, "national dress") traditional clothing in Japan. Since the middle of the 19th century, it has been considered the Japanese "national costume". Also, the kimono is the work clothes of geisha and maiko (future geisha) ... Wikipedia
Neism .; Wed [Japanese] 1. National Japanese clothing (men and women) in the form of a robe with wide sleeves. Wedding room 2. Special cut of the sleeves of a woman's dress. * * * kimono is the traditional men's and women's clothing of the Japanese straight robe (smell on the left ... encyclopedic Dictionary
- (Japanese). The genus of the upper dress among the Japanese and Japanese women is made of silk fabric, and the latter have lighter, more elegant colors. For going outside and for solemn festive occasions, they are made of heavy expensive brocade, luxuriously embroidered by rich and ... ... Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language
kimono- unsl., cf. kimono m., jap. kimono ki wear + mono thing. Japanese clothing for men and women, like a robe with very wide sleeves. Krysin 1998. In the 20th century. the kimono was introduced into European women's fashion by Paul Poiret (1879 1944), the famous French ... ... Historical Dictionary of Russian Gallicisms
The traditional men's and women's clothing of the Japanese is a straight robe (smell from left to right), with a belt and wide sleeves. The women's kimono has a very wide belt (tucked into a bow on the back) and long sleeves, the inner edge of which remains, like the armhole, ... ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary
Until the end of World War II, this word became the main word for defining Japanese attire. However, in post-war times, under the influence of the American "understanding" of Japanese reality, the universal term "kimono" began to be used as one of the synonyms "Wafuku".
Accordingly, in modern Japanese "kimono" got two values. In a broad sense, this is a general term for any clothing, and in a narrow sense - a variety wafuku.
Archaeological finds in the Japanese archipelago support the thesis that the earliest Japanese wore simple hemp clothing at the end of the Jomon era. At the beginning of the 1st millennium BC. BC, under the influence of continental fashion, a Korean-Manchu-type suit came to Japan.
The earliest kimonos, dating from around the 5th century AD, were very similar to hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. In the eighth century, Chinese fashion made the collar patch part of modern women's clothing. During the Heian era (794-1192), the kimono became very stylized, although many still wore a train. mo over it. During the Muromachi era (1392-1573), kosode- the kimono, previously considered underwear, began to be worn without hakama pants over it, so the kosode got a belt - obi... During the Edo period (1603-1867), the sleeves grew in length, becoming especially elongated in unmarried women. Obi became wider, appeared different ways tying a belt. Since that time, the shape of the kimono has remained almost unchanged.
The revolution in Japanese clothing was brought about by the Westernization reforms of the Meiji period in the second half of the 19th century. European fashion began to supplant the Japanese traditional costume. This process was gradual and superficial until 1945, affecting only the leading strata of society. However, the democratization and "Americanization" of the way of life of ordinary Japanese people has led to the fact that the Japanese kimono was ousted from everyday life.
Today, Japanese traditional costume is used mainly only during holidays and official events.
Smell
Both women's and men's kimonos are worn with a wrap to the right.
At the funeral, the body is dressed in a kimono with a wrap to the left, they say "The world after death is the opposite of our world."
Features of the kimono
The kimono resembles a T-shaped robe. Its length may vary. Clothes are fastened to the body with a belt obi(帯) which is located at the waist. Instead of European buttons, straps and strings are used. Characteristic feature kimonos are sleeves sode(袖), which are usually much wider than the thickness of the arm. They have a bag-like shape. The sleeve opening is always less than the height of the sleeve itself. Because Japanese traditional dress is similar to a robe, it does not have an open collar like European suits. In general, it is comfortable and does not hinder human movements.
The fabrics from which the kimono is made are usually inelastic. For the belt, cloth is used. Patterns for clothes are usually rectangular and differ from their European counterparts, which have complex rounded shapes. Thanks to this, savings and almost complete utilization of matter are achieved. Its rectangular remains can be reused on the farm.
For sewing the kimono, mainly soft threads are used, which reduce the risk of over-pulling the fabric. However, this kind of respect for fabric, which was in short supply in traditional Japan, negatively affects the preservation of the design of clothing. If it is broken, the kimono can be re-sewn from the same fabric.
Kimono and Japanese aesthetics
Unlike traditional European clothes, which emphasizes the construction of the human body, the kimono emphasizes only the shoulders and waist of the wearer, hiding the imperfections of his figure. Western clothing emphasizes relief, while Japanese clothing emphasizes uniformity and flatness. This is due to the traditional idea of the Japanese about the ideal constitution - "the fewer bumps and irregularities, the more beautiful."
For example, in Europe, women's corsets were used to narrow the waist, and to look beautiful in a kimono, “perfect figure” was not enough. "Perfect face" and makeup were considered an integral part of the entourage. In the late Middle Ages, the standard of the "Japanese beauty" was established. The face was supposed to be flat and its oval elongated. Slanting eyes with narrow and high eyebrows were considered beautiful. The mouth was supposed to be small and resemble a small red flower. Only the nose protruded relatively strongly from the low-profile face. The woman's skin was supposed to be white as snow, because the Japanese women have long whitened their faces and other parts of the body protruding from under the kimono. Such an ideal of a beauty is successfully reflected in Japanese engravings of the 17th-19th centuries.
Production
Men's kimonos come in a variety of sizes, while women's kimonos are mostly the same size and are fitted with pleats. The sleeves of a perfectly selected kimono end at the wrist. A men's kimono should fall down to the elbow without forming folds. Women's kimono is longer so that an ohashiori can be made (Japanese お は し 折), a special fold that looks out from under the obi. Very tall or overweight people, such as sumo wrestlers, order a kimono for themselves, although usually a whole piece of fabric remains in the finished product, with which you can easily alter it to almost any figure.
The kimono is made from a single piece of fabric. The piece of fabric is usually about forty centimeters wide and eleven and a half meters long. This is enough to sew one kimono per adult. The finished kimono contains four strips of fabric: two of them cover the body, and the rest are formed into sleeves, in addition, additional stripes are used for the collar and the like. In the past, kimonos were often unpicked before washing and sewn by hand after washing.
The traditional kimono is hand-made, and the fabric is also often hand-made and painted. In this case, repeating patterns are applied using a stencil. Over the years, many trends have changed in the style of kimono and accessories, the type and color of the fabric.
Kimonos and obi are traditionally made of silk, silk crepe, satin, modern kimonos are made of cheaper and more practical material, satin crepe, cotton, polyester and other synthetic threads. Silk is still considered the ideal material for formal furnishings.
Usually, woven patterns or small designs are worn in informal situations, for a kimono for official situations, the author's drawing goes along the hem or over the entire surface. During the Heian period, up to ten contrasting layers of clothing were worn under a kimono, with each color combination being strictly defined. Today, under a kimono, one more, thin one is most often worn. By the pattern, you can determine the season of its wear, for example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms will be worn in spring, water patterns are common for summer, Japanese maple leaves are a popular autumn motif, and colors with pines and bamboo are suitable for winter.
Old kimonos disposed of different ways, they make haori and kimonos for children, repair similar kimonos, make bags or accessories from them. A kimono with a damaged bottom is worn under a hakama to hide the bottom. Experienced textile workers used to remove threads from kimonos and reuse them in fabrics.
Kimono structure
Components of the kimono base
- Body part (Japanese 身 頃 migoro)
- the main part of the kimono, which covers the largest parts of the body. It is divided into right front (右 の 前身 頃) and left front (左 の 前身 頃), and right back (右 の 後身 頃) and left back (右 の 後身 頃). According to modern cutting rules, the left and right parts of the kimono are made from two separate pieces of fabric. The front and back of the left are connected at the shoulder. The same is true for the right side.
- Front body part (Japanese 前身 頃 maemigoro) - The front of the kimono is sleeveless, covering the chest. Divided into left and right parts;
- Back body part (Japanese 後身 頃 atomigoro) - The back of the kimono is sleeveless, covers the back. Divided into left and right parts. Made from one or two pieces of matter.
- The edges (jap. 衽 okumi; can be written with 袵) - thin and long pieces of fabric that are sewn along the front of the body from the collar at the top to the floor of the garment at the bottom. Divided into left and right parts;
- Upper side (jap. 上前 uwamae) - the left front part of the sleeveless kimono, which denotes the left front part of the underwear, the left edge, and the left part of the collar. For all people, except for the dead, kimonos are wrapped to the right, so the left side of the outfit is outside. That is why the left edge and the left front underwear are called "upper", that is, external.
- Down side (Japanese 下 前 shitamae) - the right front part of a sleeveless kimono, which denotes the right front part of the body, the right edge, and the right part of the collar. As a rule, the kimono is wrapped to the right, so the right part of the outfit is under the left and, accordingly, closer to the body. That is why the right edge and the right front underwear are called "lower", that is, the inner part.
Component parts of the sleeve
- Sleeves (jap. 袖 sode) - the parts of the kimono that cover both arms. As a rule, they have a bag-like shape.
It is believed that there are "eight holes" in the dressed female kimono, the so-called "yatsukuchi". This is an open space in the neck and legs, and the corresponding paired (right and left) armholes of the sleeves, holes miyatsukuchi and furiyatsukuchi... In the male kimono, the holes of the miyatsukuchi and furiyatsukuchi are absent.
- Sleeve holes
- Sleeve hole (jap. 袖口 sodeguchi, hole in the sleeve at the wrist);
- Sleeve cut (Japanese 袖 刳 り sodekuri, hole in the underwear of the kimono, to which the sleeve is sewn);
- Axillary hole (Japanese 振 り 八 つ 口 furyatsuchi, sleeve opening, in the part close to the armpit)... Sometimes called furikuchi (振 り 口). Present only in women's suits; (2)
- Pectoral opening (Japanese 身 八 つ 口 Miyatsuguchi, hole on the underwear in the armpit area)... Present only in women's costumes. (1)
- Sleeve train (jap. 袂 tamoto hanging part of the sleeve).
Basic measurement points
- Shoulder fold (Japanese 肩 山 katayama) - the bend on the clothes in the shoulder area, which is formed when the kimono is spread.
- "The edge of the sword" (Japanese 剣 先 kensaki) - the highest point of the edges okumi where the collar and the front meet kimono.
- Edge (jap. 裾 suso) - 1) the edge (points) of the underwear of the kimono closest to the ground, 2) the edge of the sleeve train closest to the ground.
- Back center (Japanese 背 中心 setu: shin) - a vertical line or seam on the back of the kimono that runs down the back. Sometimes called senu (Japanese 背 縫, "back seam").
- Front ends (Japanese 褄 先 tsumasaki) - the angle formed by the edges okumi and edge suso
- Dead end of the body opening (Japanese 身 八 つ 口 ど ま り miyatsuchi domari) - the lowest point of the hole Miyatsuguchi.
- Side line (Japanese 脇 線 wakisen) - vertical line or seam from armpit to hem suso.
Basic measurements and lengths
- Okumisagari (Japanese 衽 下 り okumisagari) - the length from the point at which the collar and shoulder fold converge to the point of the "sword". Usually 19 - 23 cm.
- Shoulder Width - Length from the center of the back to the border of the back of the body and sleeve. Usually 30 - 32 cm.
- Kimono length (Japanese 着 丈 kitake) - the total height of the kimono from collar to hem suso.
- Kurikosi (Japanese 繰 越 kurikosi) - the length from the center point of the shoulder fold to the back point of the collar. In the case of the women's kimono, the latter is pulled back a little, exposing the neck.
- Sleeve hole (jap. 袖口 sodekuchi) - the length of the sleeve opening at the wrist. As a rule, it is 20 - 23 cm.
- Sleeve height (Japanese 袖 丈 soetake) - the total height of the sleeve from the shoulder fold to the hem of the sleeve. Usually twice the length of the sleeve opening. In men's kimonos, this height is 49 - 51 cm.
- Sleeve armhole (Japanese 袖 付 sodetsuke) - the length of the sleeve cut, the place where the sleeve is sewn to the underwear of the kimono. Divided into front and back length according to the section of the body part into front and back. Usually the dimensions of the armhole are smaller than the height of the sleeve. In a women's kimono, this length is about 23 cm, and in the case of wearing a high belt it is even less. For men - about 40 cm.
- Sleeve width (Japanese 袖 幅 sodehaba) - the length between the sewing points of the sleeve to the underwear and the sleeve opening. The average is 35 cm. In Western tradition, it is called "sleeve length".
- Interception width (Japanese 抱 幅 dakihaba) - the width of the front part of the kimono without taking into account the width of the edges okumi and collar. V men's clothing reaches 40 cm, in women - up to 30 cm.
- Collarless height (Japanese 身 丈 mitaki) - the height of the kimono from the shoulder fold to the hem suso... When female costume corresponds to the height of a person, since an ohashiori fold is formed in the waist area, which is held by a belt.
- Shoulder and sleeve length (Japanese 裄 丈 yukitake) - the distance from the collar to the sleeve hole. Includes shoulder width and sleeve width.
Sewing a kimono
A kimono is made of cloth rolled into a scroll. Its width is usually from 36 to 72 cm, depending on the type of clothing, and its length is from 4 to 26 m.For one woman's kimono, a scroll 36 cm wide and 12 m long is used.One kimono takes about 9-12 m fabrics. Soft threads are used for sewing.
Price
Kimonos are expensive. A women's kimono can easily cost more than 300,000 rubles, and a complete set together with a lower kimono, obi, tabi, shoes and accessories can cost more than 600,000 rubles. One obi can be worth over thirty thousand. However, most of the kimonos held by hobbyists or traditional art practitioners are much cheaper. People in the entertainment industry wear standard, custom made kimonos or second-hand kimonos.
The material can also make the kimono cheaper. Hand-painted silk is often replaced with factory printing and more. plain fabrics... Also in Japan, there is a developed business of reselling used kimonos, which can cost about 500 yen or 150 rubles. Thus, obi becomes the most expensive wardrobe item because they require an experienced textile worker to produce them. Unpretentious samples cost about 1,500 yen (500 rubles). Men's obi, even silk ones, are much cheaper due to their smaller size and less decorative effect.
Today in Japan there are kimono clubs where people learn to choose and wear one.
Styles
The kimono can be very formal or casual. The level of formality of a woman's kimono is determined by the colors. Young girls have long sleeves, indicating that they are not married, and more richly decorated than similar kimonos of married women. Men's kimonos only have one basic shape and are usually darker tones. The formalization of the kimono is determined by the type and number of accessories, fabric, and the number of family crests. The most official kimono has five coats of arms. Silk is the most preferred, cotton and polyester kimonos are considered more casual.
Womens kimonos
Many modern Japanese women have lost the skill of putting on a kimono on their own: a traditional kimono contains twelve or more separate parts, so, if necessary, they often turn to specialists in this field - otokosi (Japanese 男 衆, male servant) and onagoshi (Japanese 女子 衆, female servant) or we (Japanese 女 衆 onasu:, female servant)... Geisha also dress up with the help of such professionals. Dressed people are usually called home only for special occasions, so they work at hairdressing salons.
Choosing the right kimono is difficult due to the need to take into account the symbolism of the traditional costume and social messages such as age, marital status and the level of formality of the event.
- Furisode (Japanese 振 袖): the word furisode literally translates as "fluttering sleeves": they are about a meter long in furisode. This is the most formal kimono for an unmarried woman and is worn by bridesmaids at weddings and maikos.
- Homongi (Japanese 訪問 着 ho: mongi) : translated as clothing for receptions. It has a pattern along the shoulders and sleeves, and the homongi are slightly taller than their similar tsukesage. Both married and unmarried women wear it.
- Tsukesage (Japanese 付 け 下 げ): The ornaments are more modest than those of the homonga. Most of them cover the space below the waist.
- Tomesode (Japanese 黒 留 袖): The most formal married woman's kimono, patterned only at the hem. It has two varieties:
- Iromuji (Japanese 色 無 地): It is worn by women at tea ceremonies. Sometimes there is a jacquard rinzu pattern on the iromuji, but the fabric is always the same color.
- Komon (kimono) (Jap. 小 紋): "Small drawing". The komon have a small pattern, so they can be worn both walking around the city and in a restaurant, but with a more formal obi.
Parts of a women's kimono
- Doura - Upper Inner
- Eri is a collar.
- Fuki - hemmed hem.
- Furi - sleeve above the elbow.
- Maimigoro - front shelf.
- Miyatsukuchi - hole under the sleeve.
- Okumi is the inner front.
- Sode - sleeve.
- Sodeguchi - hole in the sleeve.
- Sodetsuke - sleeve.
- Susomawashi is the lower inner part.
- Tamoto - pocket in the sleeve.
- Tomoeri is the outer collar.
- Uraeri - inner collar.
- Usiromigoro - back.
Mens kimonos
Unlike women's kimonos, men's kimonos are much simpler; they usually consist of five parts (not including shoes). In men's kimonos, the sleeves are sewn (sewn) into the side seam so that no more than ten centimeters of the sleeve remain free; women's kimonos have their deep sleeves almost never sewn this way. Men's sleeves are shorter than women's ones in order not to interfere with the obi. In women's kimonos, the sleeves do not touch the obi precisely because of their length.
Now the main difference between a woman's and a man's kimono is the color of the fabric. Black, dark blue, green and brown are considered typical. Fabrics are usually matte. Printed or plain pattern, light colors are used in more casual kimonos. Sumo wrestlers often wear fuchsia (burgundy purple) kimonos.
The most formal are black kimonos with five coats of arms on the shoulders, chest and back. A slightly less formal kimono with three coats of arms, a white underwear kimono is often worn under it.
Almost any kimono can be made more formal by wearing it with hakama and haori (see below)
Kimono and accessories
- Nagajuban (Japanese 長 襦 袢)- (or simply juban, 襦 袢) - a kimono-like undershirt that is worn by both men and women so that the upper silk kimono, which is heavy to clean, does not touch the wearer's skin. From under the kimono, only the edge of the nagajuban collar peeks out. Many jubans have interchangeable collars so that they can be worn to match the color of the top kimono and to wash only the collar, not all at once. The most formal nagajubans white, they often have a small pattern similar to the pattern on the outer kimono. Although men's kimonos are very limited in color, juban can be very extraordinary in color and style.
- Hadadjuban (Japanese 肌 襦 袢)- thin underwear like a T-shirt. Worn under nagajuban by women.
- Sasoyoke (Japanese 裾 除 け)- thin pantaloons worn by women under the nagajuban. Sometimes sasoyoki and hadajuban are paired together.
- Geta (Japanese 下 駄)- wooden sandals worn by both men and women, usually with a yukata. There is a special kind of geta that is only worn by geisha.
- Hakama (jap. 袴)- a skirt or harem pants made of split or sewn very wide trousers, traditionally worn by men (and more recently by women) in an informal setting, Shinto priests, and also as a uniform in some martial arts, for example, aikido, kendo, naginatajutsu. Traditionally, split hakama in the form of trousers are worn by men, while women's hakama is closer to the skirt. The hakama has long folds kosiita(hard back) and himo(long and short ribbons to keep the hakama from falling off). Hakama is often worn by women at graduation ceremonies. The level of formality of the hakama depends on the fabric and color.
- Haori (Japanese 羽 織)- top jacket, adding formality alongside. Previously, haori was only worn by men, but since the end of the Meiji era, fashion has allowed women to wear them too. The difference is that the female haori is longer. The modern men's haori has only the lining painted, while the women's haori is usually sewn from patterned linen.
- Haori-himo (
