One-piece facing at the neck and armholes. Master Class. Processing of the neckline and armholes with a single facing in products without collars and sleeves. The nuances of a uniform design of top details

Neck processing is one of the important stages in sewing shoulder products. You can do it different ways, in the master class for processing the neck with a slanting strip, one of them was considered. Here we will talk about the type of processing in which there will be no visible seams or additional details on the front side of the product at the neckline. This can be achieved by trimming the neckline. From the face, its presence is imperceptible, it is completely wrapped on the wrong side and repeats the shape of the neck, it turns out an evenly processed, neat edge. You will learn how to do it correctly and accurately from this article.

This is what the raw neckline of my dress looks like: round shape, an allowance for processing the neckline of 1 cm (it can be cut with an allowance of 0.7 cm, this value is convenient because the distance from the center of the foot to the edge is also 0.7 cm and it is convenient to combine a cut of fabric with the edge of the foot during processing), shoulder darts are processed, shoulder seams and the middle seam of the back are stitched:

Stages of processing the neck with a cut-up facing:

1. We cut out the trim for the shelf from the fabric. Fold the fabric in half, apply the pattern of the shelf so that its middle line coincides with the fold of the fabric. In my pattern, 1 cm allowances for processing the neck and shoulder seam have already been taken into account (it is very important that the dimensions of the shelf allowance and the facing allowance coincide). We circle along the neckline and shoulder line, finish the bottom edge in such a way that the width of the facing with an allowance is at least 5 cm.

1. Similarly, we cut out the backrest trim:

Cut out:

1. Fold the seam details face to face and grind down the short sides. We process the cuts of the short sides and the bottom edge on an overlock or a zig-zag seam. In the photo, the sections are processed on sewing machine with the overlock foot. We iron.

1. We put the facing on the neck of the product face to face, combining the cuts and shoulder seams, sweep or fix with tailor's pins. We grind at a distance of the allowance (1cm) from the edge. We cut off allowances up to 0.3 cm. In places of sharp fillets, you can cut the remaining allowance, not reaching 0.1 cm to the seam, but be careful not to damage the line.

1. We wrap the facing on the seamy side, we sweep the edge so that the facing cannot be seen from the front side, iron it. So that the facing does not have the opportunity to turn out on front side, we fix it manually to the allowances of the shoulder seams, as well as other seams coming out of the neck and falling under the facing, if any. If the fabric permits, and there is a need, you can also attach the bottom edge of the piping to the garment with blind stitches.

We remove the basting. This is what the finished neckline looks like, finished with a cut trim:

If you are in shoulder product you need a neck without visible seams and the presence of additional details on the front side, you can use this method. It is also suitable for processing armholes. Sew with pleasure.

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How to process the neckline and armholes with piping - Shay with me

Hello my dear blog readers! Now you and I will learn how to handle the neckline and armholes of a dress (it can be a top), the trim will be one-piece. This is one of the tailors' favorite ways of processing necks, it is done simply (although you cannot tell at first glance), but the product looks very beautiful and expensive if you apply this method of processing the neck.

So, you already have the upper part of the dress cut out.

We're getting started.

Sew the side sections of the product, iron the allowances and overcast.

We process a one-piece edging with an adhesive gasket. Cut out the details of the facing with allowances along the cuts of the neck and armholes of 7 mm; after duplication, be sure to do the backing.

Rigging is a process when we apply a pattern to a duplicated part again and circle it again, since during the duplication process, the part could shrink.

It is very important - from what fabric you sew your dress, you need to take into account that, for example, poplin and staple can shrink up to 15-20 cm per 1 meter of fabric. And this is a lot, and it threatens with the fact that you can simply not fit into a ready-made dress, and you will have to embroider it.

So be sure to wash and steam iron your dress fabric before opening.

We connect the details of the facing along the side cuts and iron out the allowances:

Sewing or edging the lower cuts of the facing.

We lay the edging face to face to the product, combine the neck and armhole cuts, sweep and sew, not reaching the shoulder cuts 4-6 cm (see the figure below)

We cut the allowances to a width of 0.7 cm and make staggered cuts along the neckline and armholes. The incisions are needed so that when we turn the product onto the front side, there is no tension anywhere.

We turn the facing over to the front side and make a rebate stitch (this line goes at a distance of 1 mm from the stitching seam of the facing and the product, goes along the facing detail, thus sewing the cut allowances to the facing and fixing them). When you have sewn the hem stitch and iron it, the hem will fit perfectly. Perhaps, in narrow places on the shoulders it will be difficult to slip the fabric under the needle so that to make a re-stitching, in this case, do it to the point to which the stitch will be obtained, and the rest can be hemmed by hand.

We fold the shoulder sections of the back and front of the product face to face, sweep and sew on a typewriter, then iron the allowances.

We combine the shoulder cuts of the trim face to face, we also sweep, grind and iron them.

Ironing the shoulder seams and trims. Inverted to the front side, it should look like this:

Now we turn the shoulder part onto the wrong side again. You just need to sew these holes between the marks on the sides (as in the photo and Fig. Below).

We sew open areas of armholes and necks, make cuts and cut out the thickness at the allowances in these places. We turn it over to the front side and press it on.

We fix the facing on the side seams manually.

At this point, the processing of the neck by turning can be considered complete!

Sew with me and see you soon on the blog))))!

xn - e1aialfecu4d.xn - p1ai

Neck and armhole facing. Execution technology. Step by step. Illustrations

Friends, hello everyone!

If on a product, in the area of ​​the neckline and armholes, you need to get a smooth, even and beautiful front side, instead of "autonomous" processing of the neckline and armholes, they can be processed with one facing. Such a facing is called single, combined or one-piece and is cut from one piece of fabric.

Processing of a single (combined, one-piece) facing, products with different shoulder widths, occurs in different ways. In today's article, we will look at the simultaneous processing of the neckline and armholes with facing, on products with narrow shoulders (tops, dresses without collars and sleeves).

Combined (one-piece, single) facing, pattern.

How to make such a pattern yourself?

For the layout on the fabric, we need a finished pattern of the combined piping. And in order to make it more convenient to carry out all the necessary "manipulations" with the pattern, we will make copies of the upper part of the back and front, while capturing the areas of the main parts of the pattern 5 - 7 centimeters below the armhole line.

If there is no asymmetry on the main parts of the pattern, the contours of the combined facing can only be applied to half of the back and shelf pattern.

The one-piece facing of the neckline and armholes holds the shape of this zone of the finished product quite firmly and firmly. So it makes no sense to carry out bulky finishing details, such as folds, assemblies, etc., in those places, on products, where the neck and armholes are turned by one facing.

They do not have products with a short shoulder line, processed with a single facing, and shoulder darts. And the chest, coming out of the side seam, remains out of work.

But products with narrow shoulders may have bust darts extending from the armhole.

Or the back and front can be made up of several parts. For example, the middle and sides, front and back. And they all "have access" to the armhole.

Therefore, from the main details of the pattern (two or more), we also redraw the lines of all seams, darts and share lines.

And now, on the copied patterns, aligning the details in one line of the neck and armholes, we lay, pin or glue all the seams and darts (if any) and apply on a new sheet of paper, new lines for the neckline, armholes, side seams and middle lines.

The bottom line of the future facing is applied to the paper in compliance with several of the following rules.

1. In the narrowest place (the middle of the shelf and back), the width of the edging should be at least 6 cm.
2. But at the same time, the one-piece edging should not "spread" to the area of ​​the shoulder blades (back) and the chest area (shelf).
3. The bottom line of the piping, along the bottom of the armhole, should completely repeat the line of the armhole copied from the product. And at the same time, it should "be located", at a distance from the copied line of the armhole, 3 - 5 centimeters lower (according to the model, depends on the type of fabric).
4. In the area of ​​the midline of the back and front, the bottom line of the piping should run perpendicular to these lines.

Well, now, relying on all these rules, we are trying to draw the bottom line of the piping.

Cut out and lay out the resulting patterns, along with the rest, on the fabric.

Combined (one-piece, single) facing of the neck and armholes for products with wide (from 5 cm) shoulders.

Combined (one-piece, single) facing of the neck and armholes for products with through fasteners going from the neckline to the bottom of the product.

Combined (one-piece, single) facing of the neck and armholes for products with fastening along the shoulder line.

Combined (one-piece, single) edging for products with narrow shoulders, cutting and processing.

The fastener on the product, the neck and armholes of which are processed with a single facing, can be in the side seam, along the lines of the middle of the front or back, and along any other line "coming out" of the neck or armhole (according to the model).

Therefore, when cutting out two details of the future facing, do not forget about the seam allowances for such a fastener.

And in order not to get confused on what seams, where, what width the allowances need to be selected, we will make them all 1.5 cm wide. Later, the excess can be cut off.

Along the bottom contour, the width of the allowance and whether it is needed at all, determines how this cut is processed.

Combined facing is conceived on those products where the front side should be very flat. Therefore, it will not be correct to make a facing like a puzzle, from separately cut parts, with a lack of material. Long, thick seams will bulge ugly above the surface of the garment.

For an excellent final result, it will be better if you still think a little longer and, or place the details of the pattern on the fabric more efficiently, or choose additional fabric that is suitable in color and texture to the main one for such a facing.

The cut out trimming details are reinforced with adhesive cushioning materials.

Then the facing of the front is connected to the facing of the back with stitching seams in a flattened manner. How many of them will be and in what places the stitching seams will be made, depends on where, in what place on the product the fastener will be located.

For example, if the fastener is in the middle of the back,

or in any other seam coming out of the neck or armhole, which means that the details of the facing are connected to each other along the side seams.

If the fastener is on the side, the piping parts are connected to each other only at one side seam.

There may be no fastener on the product at all. And then the two parts of the front facing and the back facing are connected to each other along the side seams.

As you can see, the shoulder seams, at the same time, in different ways, and so and so, of the connected parts of the facing, while they remain free, not stitched.

One of the ways is to process the bottom edge of the piping.

Sewing combined (one-piece, single) seams on products with a short shoulder line.

Combined piping, on products with a short shoulder line, without any fasteners and with fasteners located in different seams of the product, except for those conceived in the shoulder seam, are made in the same way.

Finished edging is applied face side on the front side of the product.

One-piece trims are baked onto the product after all their lines of the neck, armholes, middle and side seams are precisely aligned.

At the same time, along the seams, in which the zippers will be located on the finished products, we carry out the necessary preparatory work at the same time as basting the facing. Namely, we prepare the seam allowances of the product and the facing for making the zipper.

We lay stitching, machine stitches along the lines of the neck and armholes.

As you can see, only the lines of all shoulder seams remain unconnected.

Performing stitching lines, we reach the shoulder line and stop exactly at this line and make bartacks.

We cut the allowances of all made seams to a width of 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

On all, even more or less curved, sections of the seams, we perform notching allowances.

Now it's time to join the shoulder seams.

We turn the edging inside the product, we carry out the sweeping of the turned necks and armholes, and we iron everything.

The allowances of the shoulder seams on the facing, both from the back and from the front, are folded outward along the applied seam line and secured with a temporary hand stitch. It should not interfere with the shoulder seam.

Along the lines of the shoulder seams, fold the front sides to each other, back and front.

The lines of the seams, applied earlier when marking, on both parts, should coincide just perfectly. We sweep them, and then we connect them with a stitching stitch.

Now you need to contrive this shoulder seam, neatly iron it out. This can be done by placing something very narrow, wooden under the seam. For example, on the handle of a paint brush, on a pencil, etc.

We fill in the allowances of the ironed seam inward, between the layers of the main parts of the back and front, and the details of the facing.

"Freeing" the facing seam allowances from hand stitches

and tuck them in there, inward, bending along the line of the shoulder seam.

And in this position we fix it with a constant blind hand stitching with oblique stitches.

Everything, one-piece single facing of the neck and armholes, for products with a narrow shoulder line, is done!

In the next article, we will see how single edging is performed on products in another way.

And that's all for today! Good luck to all! Best regards, Milla Sidelnikova!

www.milla-sidelnikova.com

Greetings to all sewing lovers! While completing one of the orders, I thought that perhaps it would be interesting and useful for you to know how one of the moments of the sewing process is performed. It's about an embossed jacquard blouse. Processing the neckline and armholes with a one-piece stitching on a blouse can be done in different ways.

This blouse has a round neck and no sleeves. It is necessary to process the bodice so that it is both beautiful from all sides and comfortable to wear. There will be a hidden zipper in the center of the back of the blouse.

In the photo you can see a shelf and two halves of the back.

For processing the bodice, I used one-piece edging, which are cut out along the contours of the front and back, as shown in the photo. The lines of the armholes, shoulder cuts and the neckline completely coincide.

The trims must be glued with non-woven material.

Then stitch on the shelf and bodice, respectively, without reaching a few centimeters to the shoulder seams, and on the back to the central seam.

Then you need to fold the front sides of the shoulder sections of the main parts and details of the facing and grind them together.

At the same time, open areas are formed in the region of the shoulder cuts along the neckline and along the armholes.

The shoulder cuts of the main parts and facing parts must be ironed out and the open areas along the neckline and along the armholes must be stitched.

From the side of the shelf, turn the blouse to the front side and perform one operation. It consists in unscrewing the allowances along the neckline and armholes to the side of the piping and stitching along the front side of the piping, retreating 3 mm from the seam.

If the shoulders are narrow, then this operation is not easy. I do it in several stages. I begin to sew from the side seams to the shoulder cuts as much as the machine allows. Then, I do the same from the side of the other side seam. In some place, the lines are found one on top of the other and the operation ends there. The revision has been completed. It is better to cut the seam allowance so that it does not pull on the seams in the finished product.

This is the look of the blouse after the turn-over.

After that, it is necessary to fold the side cuts with the front sides and grind them together with the edging. Iron the seams and overlock the bottom of the seams along the entire length.

The next step is to connect the bodice of the blouse and the peplum and sew in a hidden zipper. You can see how to sew a hidden zipper in the master class.

Then it will be necessary to finally connect the piping with the bodice along the neckline and the central seam of the back. I have already talked about this, and you can familiarize yourself with this moment in this master - class.

At the final stage, it is necessary to fix the edging so that it does not dangle. On the side seams, I did it by hand, and along the front of the bodice and along the back in some places I fixed it with adhesive tape.

When processing neck and armholes with one-piece edging, you can use several options for the sequence of work. I work separately with the shelf and the back, because that's more comfortable for me. But, you can immediately grind the shoulder cuts of the facing and upper parts, respectively, and work with solid parts. This is the second option. And the third option is to cut out the facing without any shoulder seams at all. But, this is possible only if you have enough fabric for it.

After ironing all the seams, necklines and armholes, the bodice of the blouse looks like this. All the top seams are covered with edging and you don't have to worry that something will happen to them.

In this photo you can see the whole blouse. For her, I sewed a wide belt (from the same fabric), which I already talked about earlier in the master class. If you also need a fabric belt, you can use this sewing method.

I hope that I have explained everything clearly, and that you, if necessary, will cope with this operation. This method of processing the armhole and neckline with a one-piece seam can be used for blouses, dresses and tops, provided that the back consists of two halves. If there is no incision in the center of the back and it is one-piece, then this operation is performed differently.

Practice, improve your qualifications. I wish you enjoy sewing and creating new products!

Arina Shirokova was with you.

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Tips for processing armholes and necklines, sewing lessons, secrets of experienced tailors

In order to make a neckline or armhole, you will need a bias tape or edging. In the event that you prefer the latter, then it will need to be made of the same fabric as the product itself, without forgetting about the shared threads: they must be in the same direction. However, there is an exception: for processing fabric with sequins, you will need a special fabric, from which you can make a lining.

When you cut out the piping, be sure to leave small allowances around the entire perimeter. In order to avoid pulling the neck out, it will be necessary to put non-woven fabric into all the parts of which the edging will consist. This will help strengthen the neckline. When making non-woven piping, make allowances and iron to the wrong side of the main piping and transfer the contours.

Round neck processing.

To process a rounded neck, you must first sew on all the parts that make up the facing, steam off the allowances, and sweep the cut inside. After that, connect the facing and the neck of the product with the front sides and sew them. Cut off the excess fabric left for allowances as close to the stitching as possible, and in the places where it is rounded, you need to cut the piping a little almost close to the seam (Fig. 1).

Please note that if a stitching is not needed on the neck itself, then the allowance that was left can simply be ironed along with the facing. But this should not result in any folds. There is even a special pillow with which it is much more convenient to do this (Fig. 2), but if it is not there, then you can do it at the very edge of the board that you use for ironing.

After that, connect the facing with allowances and sew as close to the seam as possible (Fig. 3). Then turn the facing inside out and sew its edge so that the seam on the front side is not completely visible, but on the seamy side is close to the fold. If desired, you can make another line on the neckline. Sew a piping to the allowances left on the shoulders. The zipper should be sewn in only before stitching the neck of the product completely. When you sew the facing, be sure to make sure that its allowances protrude slightly beyond the cuts, for clarity, see Fig. 4. Then, when you turn the facing inside out, unscrew the left allowances and sew the zipper to a special tape (Fig. 5). If a bead is provided in the product or its section is made with a solid pick, then first it is necessary to turn it to the front side and only then connect the neck and the facing. Then the facing will need to be cut in such a way that the shortest part is about 1 cm over the edge (fig. 6). And only then it will be possible to sew it on itself and cut off the excess allowances. The neck edge and the cut edge must be turned inside out, sewn and ironed. And only after that, the edge of the cut (edge) can be sewn to the edge of the neck (Fig. 7).

Processing with a square cut and a V-neck.

There is nothing difficult about this, since they are processed, by analogy with round necks. And in order to turn the facing inside out, it will be necessary at the very top, as close to the line as possible, to make small cuts on the allowances (Fig. 8).

When you do, you can use the piping (just like for the rounded neck). In this case, you can simultaneously make seams on the sides and edging for the armholes, and you can, as necessary, make the product narrower or wider, without stripping off the edging, but simply due to allowances. But then, the allowances on these parts should be the same width.

To do this, you will first need to sew the shoulders of the product and the edging, baste the allowances and inner edges and iron them a little. Fold armhole and hem right over and sew. Cut off excess fabric at the seam allowances, where the rounding goes, cut them a little and iron them so that they turn out on top of the piping. Sew it itself close to the seam, which is next to the allowances. After that, it remains to make one line, which will connect the sides and facing (fig. 9). Finish and iron the allowances, and turn the facing inside out and finish its edge. Then it will already be possible to sew it to the allowances on the sides and shoulders.

How to make a single hem for armholes and necklines.

If the model you are sewing does not have sleeves and at the same time has narrow shoulders, then you can make one common piece for edging and armholes. Since after all the circular cuts have been stitched, it will no longer be possible to turn the facing out, the seams on the shoulders are done a little later.

To begin with, you will need to tuck the bottom edges of the facing, and then attach the front sides to the appropriate cuts of the armholes and necklines and make a basting, while not forgetting to combine the seams. After that, you can already sew them, while you need to start and finish the seam with a special bartack and about 3 cm lower than the shoulder will be (Fig. 10 and 10a).

Leaving allowances must be removed. On the front of the product, the facing must be turned inside out, stretching the cuts made on the shoulders between the front of the product and the facing. The front sections on the shoulders must be pulled between the back and the piping, connecting with the shoulder sections on the back of the product. As a result, your back and front and facing should be connected with the front sides. The front part of the product must be aligned with the shoulders and sewn, after which, the shoulders themselves must be joined on the edging and sewn together (Fig. 11).

Iron the shoulder seams. The easiest way to do this is to use a simple, long-handled chef's spoon (fig. 12). Then it will be already possible to sew the edges of the neckline, which were deliberately left behind (Fig. 13). The front part of the product will need to be pulled out from the shoulders of the back so that the back facing is turned inside out.

The edges of the neckline and armholes will need to be smoothed out a little. After that, having connected the front and back of the product, with the front sides, fasten the sides and edging of the product and sew with one line (Fig. 14).

How to sew shoulder cuts, less than 3cm.

To do this, the trims will need to be connected to the edges (front sides) and sewn up to the shoulder seams. At the end of this seam, a bartack will need to be made. Trim off allowances and cut at rounding points. After that, the shoulder sections must be pushed between the product itself and the edging, thus turning them inside out. Iron and connect the cuts on the shoulders with the front sides, make a line without touching the facing itself (Fig. 15). Fold out the allowances left for the seams, and fold them on the shoulder seam and sew the edges butt-seam (fig. 16)

How to work with bias inlay.

The cutout of the product can be processed using a pre-cut or already purchased bias tape. In sewing shops you can find great amount various oblique inlines. To process the neckline, it is best to purchase a ready-made bias tape. Its width, after you fold it in half, should be about 4 cm.

Before proceeding with the processing of the cutout, it is necessary to iron the bias tape well. And in order for the seam to look completely flat from the inside, the bias tape must be folded in half, right side out, and ironed with an iron so that it turns out to be rounded (Fig. 17).

Then connect the bias tape and the neck with the front sides, while the fold at the tape should be about 1.5 cm from the seam itself, and the sections left open should lie on the allowance. So sew the inlay from the seamy side of the front and back of the product, along the neckline. Cut off excess fabric from the seam allowances and cut at the rounding points (fig. 18). Turn the bias tape itself to the wrong side, tuck the edges and iron it (fig. 19). If necessary, sew another seam at shoulder level and sew on the sides. It is only necessary to make sure that the edges of the neck are not displaced and are exactly connected (Fig. 20). The remaining allowances must be ironed and manually sewn along the entire neckline (fig. 21). Also, if necessary, you can make an additional line on the neck.

When sewing inside corners, the bias tape will need to be sewn down to the corner. Look at fig. 22 and unscrew it in the same way, securing the fold with a pin. Then it will need to be folded, as shown in fig. 23 and sew from the corner, sweep and iron. Lay it in the corner, sew up the resulting fold and delay the edge from the front side.

When sewing the outside corner, also sew the bias tape to the corner, make a notch in the allowance so that it is very close to the last stitch and sew the tape from the notch (fig. 24). In the corner itself, on the allowance, make another notch obliquely, then baste the inlay on the wrong side, lay the corner and sew up the fold that has arisen. Finally, iron the edges and stitch on the right side.

When processing necks and armholes, you need to adhere to the following rules:

• If you will process the neck with a bias tape, then in order for it to remain even, you need to put a non-woven gasket from the inside out and iron it so that the seams coincide. It is only necessary to ensure that the cut of the neck lies completely flat at this time.
• The side cuts can only be sewn after the armholes have been completely made.
• In the event that this model does not have any fastener at the neck, then initially you need to sew the sections on the shoulders, iron and sweep.

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Processing the neck and armholes of the product by turning

Neck and armhole cuts can be cleanly stitched with edging or bias tape. The seams are always cut from fabric with the same thread direction as the parts to be seamed. The exception is fabrics embroidered with sequins, for the processing of which lining fabric is used.

Cut out the piping with perimeter allowances. To prevent the sections from stretching, reinforce the trim details with non-woven fabric, ironing it from the seamy side of the trim. Transfer the contours.

Round neck processing

If the product provides for a zipper or a cut in the middle seam of the front or back, then you must first process them.

Stitch the facing details, iron and overcast the seam allowances. Overcast the inside edge of the trim. Pin the piping to the neckline face to face and stitch. Cut off the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in the rounding areas, 2 mm before the seam line (1).

If the neck does not need to be trimmed, iron the hem allowance (2). In this case, wrinkles should not form. It is most convenient to iron on a special ironing pad or on the edge of an ironing board.

Sew the piping to the seam allowances next to the welt seam (3). Unscrew the piping to the wrong side. Sweep the edge so that the seam is next to the fold on the wrong side and is not visible from the right side. If desired, you can stitch the neckline.

Attach the seam to the shoulder seam allowances with a couple of stitches.

If the product is with a zipper in the middle, then when stitching the piping, the allowances of the short cuts of the piping should protrude beyond the edges of the cut (4). After turning the piping inside out, unscrew the piping allowances and sew to the zipper tapes (5).

If the product has a bead or a cut with a one-piece collar, then first unscrew the edge (cut edge) to the front side, and then pin the neck edge to the neck. Trim the piping so that its short cut overlaps the edge 1 cm (6). Sew the piping. Cut off seam allowances close to the stitching. Unscrew the neckline and hem (cut edge) to the wrong side, baste and press. Sew the hem (cut edge) to the neck edge (7).

A neck with a V-neck is made in the same way as a round one. To turn the facing to the wrong side, cut the allowances at the top (8), respectively, in the corners close to the sewing line.

Armhole processing

Armholes can be trimmed cleanly in the same way as round necklines. It is especially convenient to make the side seams of the product at the same time with the facing of the armholes. Then you will be able to adjust the width of the product due to the allowances of the side seams, without stripping the piping. A prerequisite for this: the allowances for the side seams of the product and the facing must be of the same width.

This is done by following the shoulder seams on the garment and overstitching. Neaten and press the seam allowances. Overcast the inner edges of the seams.

On both sides of the product, pin off the facing and armhole with the right sides and stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in several places in the fillet areas and press on the facing. Sew the seam seam allowance close to the seam.

Sew the side cuts of the product and the piping with a single stitch. Neaten and press the seam allowances.

Unscrew the piping to the wrong side. Sweep the edge. Sew a piping to the shoulder and side seam allowances.

Single edging for neckline and armholes

When the sleeveless model has narrow shoulders, the neck and armhole seams are combined into one piece. Since the piping cannot be turned out after sewing all circular cuts, the shoulder seams should remain open for now. They are grinded down later.

To do this, overcast the lower edges of the seams. Fold the piping with matching neckline and armhole from right side to side. Chip off the neckline and armholes by aligning the seam lines. Stitch, while starting / ending the seam, respectively, 3 cm below the marked shoulder line. At the beginning and end of the seam, sew at the bartack (1, 2).

Cut seam allowances close to the stitching. At the front, unscrew the piping to the wrong side by pulling the shoulder cuts between the piping and the front. Pull the shoulder sections of the front between the piping and the back to the shoulder sections of the back. As a result, the front and back, as well as the facing will fold with the front sides.

Pin the front to the back along the marked shoulder line and stitch. Then cleave the shoulder lines on the seams and stitch as well (3). Pull slightly outward in front along the shoulder.

Iron the shoulder seam allowances. The most convenient way to do this is on the long handle of a chef's spoon (4). Then cleave the remaining open cuts of the neck and armholes and grind (5). Pull out from the shoulder edges of the backrest beforehand, while the back seam will turn out automatically to the wrong side.

Press the edges of the neckline and armholes on the seam side. Fold the front with the back with the right sides and pin off the side sections of the product and the seams. Sew the side cuts of the garment and seams with a single stitch (6).

How to grind very narrow shoulder cuts (3 cm or less)

Pin the piping to the corresponding cut, right side to front, and sew exactly up to the marked shoulder seams. At the end of the seam, sew a bartack. Cut off the seam allowances close to the stitching, cut notches in the fillet areas. Unscrew the piping to the wrong side by inserting the shoulder cuts between the piping and the product. Iron on. Sew the right sides of the shoulder sections of the product, without seizing the piping (8). Fold out the seam allowances. Fold over the shoulder seam allowances and sew the folded edges butt seam with several stitches (7).

Bias binding

Cut-outs can be finished with a finished or cut-out bias tape. Ready-made bias tapes made of cotton, matte or glossy, are available in a large assortment in sewing shops. For grinding, use a ready-made, folded in half inlay 4 cm wide.

For more information on bias binding and processing various cuts, see this article.

Before starting work, spread the tape flat and press it down. You can also cut the bias tape out of the lining fabric or a patch of base fabric. To ensure that the seam has clean edges on the seamy side, fold the bias tape in half lengthways with the seamy side inward. Press it down, giving the bias tape the shape of a rounded cutout - this is called "pulling the edges", close open cuts (1).

To prevent the edges of the neckline and armholes from curving when processing the bias tape, press the non-woven liner on the wrong side so that the chain seam exactly coincides with the marked seam line (2). When doing this, make sure that the neckline / armhole cut lies flat on the ironing pad.

Pin the bias tape to the neckline face to face so that the fold of the tape lies at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the marked seam line, and the open edges of the tape lie on the allowance. Sew the piping on the wrong side of the front and back exactly along the marked line of the neckline. Cut off the seam allowances close to the seam, notch in the fillet areas (3).

Fold the bias tape back to the wrong side. Baste the edges (4). Iron on. Sew a second shoulder seam if necessary, stitch side cuts. When doing this, make sure that the neck sections lie exactly on top of each other (5). Iron the seam allowances, overcast and sew by hand along the neckline. The neck can be stitched if desired.

pokroyka.ru

Bias binding as a facing - Fair of Masters

The secret of high-quality processing of a collarless neckline, sleeveless armhole with a bias tape is in its very simple, simple preparation (processing) before stitching.

Each time, thinking about how best to handle slices, you need to consider the properties and appearance fabrics.

When should you use a bias tape instead of a piping?

1. Inter-waisted lunges of the main fabric are not enough to cut out the piping.

2. Fabric with glitter, "scratching" fabric, unpleasant and traumatic for your delicate skin.

3. Transparent fabric (chiffon, organza and others).

4. Extremely flexible fabric (chiffon, silk, crepe georgette and others).

5. Easily stretchable fabric.

6. Bulky, loose fabric.

7. Oval neck.

This time I have a voluminous, loose, easily stretchable fabric. The photo shows that this is a 2-layer jersey of a very complex weave of the finest threads, and it is translucent.

I do not have interleck lunges that are suitable for cutting out the piping.

Of the seven points, in my case all the reasons for using a bias inlay are suitable, except for the second point.

To get a clear, flat and thin line for the neckline, I decided to use a ready-made bias tape.

The secret of the bias inlay, which allows you to avoid any deformation, distortion of the shape of the neck, armholes when processing it with an oblique inlay, is to give it the desired shape BEFORE sharpening.

Of course, simple and easy-to-process fabrics do not require such additional processing of the bias tape before sewing, and often even basting. You can customize the binding immediately.

If the fabric is very mobile (chiffon) and easily stretchable, more careful and careful processing will be required.

Procedure:

1. Along the line of the neckline of the dress or blouse, we will lay a machine stitching line, which will make the cut of the fabric more stable, and will also be a reliable guide for aligning with the bias tape.

2. We draw on a sheet of thin cardboard, applying a pattern, the line of the neck of the front and back (or armholes).

3. Now, putting the finished bias tape on the cardboard with the drawn neck line, we begin, without violence, voluntarily and forcibly form the inlay, precisely placing one edge of it along the neck line and fix it by steaming it with an iron.

Important! The binding should be laid so that it easily and naturally, without changing its width, lies along the neckline and looks like a narrow and elegant edging.

4. After steaming the binding, fix its position on the cardboard with needles and leave it for a while to cool down and finally fix in its new form.

5. Put the cooled inlay with the marked alignment points made with a water-soluble marker on the neck of the dress, mark,

folding back the fold of the hem and making stitches exactly in this fold.

6. Sewing a bias tape,

laying the line close to the basting line, on the right, in the direction of the neckline.

7. Remove the basting.

8. If the fabric requires it, the seam allowances of the neck should be notched, not reaching 2-3 mm to the machine stitch.

Fold back the bias tape

on the wrong side of the product, sweep up to form a transitional edge and press it on.

9. Fasten the inner fold of the tape by hand with a blind stitch.

Or we sew on the inner edge of the bias tape, close to the very fold, laying a machine finishing line.

When processing chiffon, organza, transparent fabrics or when finishing the neckline with a tape of a different color, the bias tape is sewn on from the wrong side, bent and adjusted to the front.

This method allows you to achieve perfect, even, high-quality processing of the neck and armholes, without spending much more time on it than usual.

The photo was taken before removing the marks, of course!

But the result will definitely please you!

In offering you this method of processing, I was guided by the fact that I had not met it anywhere else. Perhaps because always, relying on the flexibility, mobility of the bias inlay and the small width of the inlay that contributes to it, as well as having priority on the sewing speed, the inlay is not formed, like me, before stitching.

I wish you success in sewing, beautiful and impeccable products!

With love and respect, Lyubov Komissarova.

www.livemaster.ru

Processing the neckline and armholes with one common facing is a very convenient and neat way to decorate the upper part of a dress or sleeveless top. This cut-out treatment is used if the product does not have a collar. With this method, a beautiful and even cut line is obtained, both of the neck and armholes, and the fabric on the front side is smooth.

Our master class will show you in detail how to perform such a turning.

Cutting and armhole machining: rules for cutting welts

Edging is additional detail from the main fabric, it follows the contour of the edge for which it is intended. Such edging is also called "cut-cut". We will cut out a common facing that follows the contour of the neckline and the cutout of the armholes. It should be cut taking into account the direction of the share thread: in the same direction as the top of the product.

If your model has a dart or a raised seam, then the edging should be cut out according to the shape of the finished product, no darts are made on the edging itself! The seam allowances are the same as for the base model.

If after trying on you have changed the shape of the armhole or cutout, the piping must be cut out exactly according to the product. It is best to cut out the trim along the contour of the already assembled model in order to match it as much as possible.

It is advisable to additionally reinforce the edging with a dublerin suitable for the main fabric, which is cut out without taking into account the allowances. You should have one piece for the front and one piece for the back if your model does not have a clasp, or two pieces for the back if there is a clasp. In the event of a shortage of fabric, it is allowed to make trims from two halves, sewn in the center.

Before starting work, you need to sweep and try on the product. Then sew side seams and zip in if provided. Pull out the basting at the shoulder seams, they should stay open!

So, let's start processing the neckline and armholes!

Progress

Fold the front facing with the back facing inward and sew along the side seams.

Iron the side seam allowances on the facing and on the garment. Zigzag or overlock the bottom edge of the seam.

Fold the piping with the top edge of the garment right sides inward and pin together at the center and side seams.

Sew along the neckline and along the armhole lines. Cut and notch allowances.

If the garment has a zipper: tuck the ends of the piping so that the zipper teeth are visible and press on. Sew the piping to the zipper tape with a blind stitch. Stitch the front and back along the shoulder seams of the product, do not grab the piping!

Sew the ironed edges of the seams from the wrong side with a blind seam by hand.

Sew the edges of the armholes and necklines, rolling the seam to the wrong side. Iron it. Remove the basting. Hand secure the piping to the side seams of the garment.

Depending on the shape of the garment, different types of trim are selected. It can be round, teardrop, square, or V-neck. They are stitched with a cut trim, an oblique transverse inlay. The pattern is made towards the texture of the main part.

Tailoring is made for shoulder seams and back. Fold the material in half, join the back and the front together, fold the fabric, and then sew the facing to the width of the palm. We observe the planned shape of the incision and outline the neckline, leaving approximately one centimeter for the seams on the front sides and cuts.

There are several options for processing the collar. How to choose a way to process the neckline and armholes of the dress?

To correctly complete the attire, you need to know a few rules:

• Firstly, each type of fabric has its own covering;
• Second, the way you want to finish the armhole and neckline depends on the shape of the neckline and the texture of the fabric. The collar of a knitted dress with a V-shaped, round and oval neckline is more convenient to carry out with an inlay, but for square and square cutouts, the edging method is suitable;
• Third, not all techniques are feasible for manual processing. For example, trimming is only possible with a typewriter.

In order to correctly sweep the collar, you need to test the size of the throat cut on both sides of the front part. To sew the dress, fold the front and back sections in half and make sure again that the front contours and slits match. Sometimes it happens that one of the sides is deeper, in which case it should be swept with a thin thread with stitches half a centimeter long. We tighten the knots of threads and iron them to create the effect of an accordion, fasten the collar with pins.

Processing of an oblique tape of a dress's neck

Let's find out how the neckline of a knitted dress is processed with an oblique trim. This is one of the easiest ways to overlay armholes of T-shirts, sleeveless dresses, summer blouses.

This is how it works:

1. Cut a strip of fabric diagonally to the longitudinal and transverse threads of the material of the required length and add 2 centimeters to the allowance. The strip without indentation should take 3 centimeters;
2. We fold our binding in half and iron it with an iron;
3. We unfold our strip of fabric evenly. We turn the lobe cuts of the fragment in turn towards the narrowed fold with the front side out and iron them. Further, any of the two cuts is again completely flattened;
4. To prevent too large a cut for the neck and stretching, add a thread along the cut and attach the interlining to the glue;
5. Cut off the allowances parallel to the cutout. We pin the inverted cut of the tape with pins to the cutout for the throat with the front sides, going around the ends with an allowance. We sew with a thread parallel to the bend at a distance of 1 centimeter;
6. Open the Bake upward;
7. The inlay should be applied to the fabric in the areas of the stitched seams and, tucked, fastened or basted;
8. We sew with the front seam on the outside in one row with the stitching stitch;
9. We measure our product, take out the extra basting threads. The process is complete.

Also, the bias tape can be purchased in the store in the form of a ready-made tape.

The advantage of the bias inlay is that it is very reliable and will not allow the fabric to deform and puff up; it can be made by hand without a typewriter. In order to avoid the curvature of the fabric during processing, we fit the non-woven fabric on the lining with an iron on the wrong side, so that the stitching markings exactly match.

Check the cutting position of the product so that it lies flat and does not bulge.

The grooving of the armholes necessarily takes place before the grooving of the side cuts. In case you want to make a fastener on the neck, it is better to process the fabric on the shoulder seams before doing this. All seam allowances are ironed on before overcasting.

Processing method by turning

Now it's time to learn how to properly trim the neckline for a dress. This method is more laborious, but it is the only one suitable for elegant evening dress and strict business suits... The advantage of this approach is that the outer thread is completely invisible, and the fabric lies perfectly flat, which emphasizes the dignity of your posture and figure.

In order to correctly carve the patterns, you need to make a preliminary fitting of the product. Only after this procedure can you create parts that are suitable in shape. However, you can use special patterns for needlework or follow the advice of instructions or blank patterns for the dress.

In order to overcast fabric, you first need to prepare it. We cut according to the patterns or along the contours of the product, combining its two poles: we double down all the armholes, side and shoulder seams.

Our blanks must be of the same material as the finished garment itself, or its substitute.

This is essential to maintain the correct natural texture. This material is called dublerin. This is a cheaper analogue of an expensive canvas.

Even in the case of using patterns, we still outline the sprout, dorsal middle seam, shoulder seams, half-crotch and neckline, armholes, side threads for each individual case. Do not forget that copies of the collar and sprout should be created intact, and for the back and shelf - bent along the fold of the doublerin.

Regardless of whether the trimming is carried out according to the product or according to the patterns, we outline the outlines of the sprout, the middle seam of the back, shoulder seam, armholes, side seam, collar and half-neck, choosing the necessary for each part separately. In this case, we do not need gaps on the lines when stroking and cutting. We stick the resulting scraps on the seamy side of the product. The remnants of the canvas after cutting can act as such details.

Then we cut out the parts with one centimeter wide sheathing space for the shoulders and sides. Now we grind down our workpieces and iron the seams.

The above method is also suitable for a V-neck dress. How to process it, we will find out further.

To V-neck stitching, you will need to turn the duplicate inside out, for which you need to notch allowances at the top and in the corners. The armholes are machined in the same way as in the case of a round neckline. For convenience, fabricate the armhole details with an overlap for side seams.

Now you can adjust the size of the garment thanks to the indentation on the side threads without cutting the details. But remember, this manipulation will be successful if the dimensions of the residues on the side seams and lining are identical.

Here's how to do it:

• we sew stitches for the shoulders on the product and facing;
• overlay and iron out the indents on the seams;
• overlay the cuts of the inner part of the facing;
• on both sides of the garment we fasten the patterns and the armhole with the outer sides, sew them together;
• cut off the remnants of the thread closer to the line, notch the places with roundings and narrow them before turning;
• we grind the parts together (allowances are close to the seams);
• now we sew side cuts and linings with a single thread;
• we sew and iron the left gaps;
• unfold the lining inside out, and sew along the edges;
• in the end, we attach the lining to the allowances on the shoulders and sides.

Ready! Now you know how to process the neckline of a dress at home as well as in any atelier!

One-piece sewing of necklines and armholes of dresses is one of the most popular methods among tailors. With such processing, the cutouts of the dress look very nice and neat. In addition, using this technology, you can easily sew a sheath dress on a lining, you just need to cut it out (excluding the trims) and sew on the bottom of the trims of the sheath dress. How to build a base pattern and sew such a sheath dress, see the section

Rice. 1. Product in finished form

Work description:
On the main product (dress), process the side cuts, sweep and grind the side seams. The shoulder seams of the sheath dress should remain open.

Rice. 2. One-piece edging is cut out exactly along the neckline and armholes of the dress in a 4 cm wide case with seam allowances the same as in the case dress. The thermal fabric is cut out without taking into account the seam allowances. The trims are duplicated with thermal fabric. If darts were provided on the sheath dress, they should be closed on the paper pattern of the sheath dress and reshoot exactly according to the pattern of the sheath dress with the darts already closed.

One-piece facing of the front of the sheath dress - 1 piece with a fold.

Rice. 3. One-piece trim of the back of the dress case - 2 parts.

Rice. 4. Stitch the side seams on the sheath dress.

Rice. 5. Iron the seams on the product (dress case) and trims.

Rice. 6. Sew the seam allowances with an overstitch.

Rice. 7. Fold the trims with the dress face to face, aligning along the armholes of the dress, the neck of the front of the dress and the neck of the back of the dress.

Rice. 8. At a distance of 3 cm from the shoulder seams of the dress, put white marks. Sweep the sheath dress along the neckline and armholes before reaching the shoulder seams (sweep to the marks).

Rice. 9. On the back of the dress, unscrew the zipper tape and sweep the neckline (not reaching 3 cm to the shoulder seam).

Rice. 10. Continue basting and baste the piping to the zipper tape just beyond the seam where the zipper is sewn.

Rice. 27. View of the seams from the back of the dress.

Rice. 28. Iron the dress, remove the basting.

Master Class. Processing of the neckline and armholes with a single facing in products without collars and sleeves. Part 1

Elena: "Products without a collar and sleeves have been successfully used for a long time, do not go out of fashion, and over time they only acquire some features. For example, the shoulder width can be more or less, a narrow shoulder can be more displaced towards the armhole or in side of the neckline, the depth and shape of the neckline also vary from model to model.

There are several methods for processing such products. For example, the neckline and armholes can be edged or processed with a bias tape, but in these cases, a line will be visible on the front side of the bodice along the neckline and armhole, and this does not always look appropriate.

How to process the neckline and armholes so that there are no lines on the front side of the bodice? There is only one way out - to grind! Those. process the neckline and armholes with edging. In this master class, we will see how to combine the neck and armhole facing, and also find out what other advantages a single facing has. This processing method is used for sewing sundresses, dresses, vests, children's clothing from almost any fabric, it is used both in products with a lining and without a lining.

PS. I love this processing method very much and use it often. I am sure that you will succeed, because in the master class I shared with you all the technological secrets and features of high-quality processing. Good luck! "

When sewing products at home, you should pay attention to such an element as the neck, the processing of which is sometimes difficult for beginners. Let's take a look at the existing ways to handle cutouts. garment and the necessary technological operations.

One of the classic options for such processing is grinding the cuts of the armholes and the neck using or processing the neck with a stitching, which is cut out of the same fabric with the obligatory arrangement on it in such a way that the share threads of the parts and stitches coincide with them. The exception is fabric embroidered with sequins, it is processed

When cutting out facing around their entire perimeter, an allowance is required. To prevent stretching of the cuts, each piece of the facing must be reinforced with non-woven fabric. The piping from the gasket, together with the seam allowance, must be pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric piping with contour transfer.

How to process a round neck

The processing of the neck of the product begins with stitching the facing parts together, ironing out and overcasting the seam allowances. Then its inner cut also needs to be swept. Then we cut off the facing with the neck with the front sides inward and grind it. Cut the allowances of the resulting seam as close to the line as possible, make notches at the rounding points that do not reach the seam line by 2 mm.

Please note - if there is no need to detach the neckline, the seam allowance should be ironed. At the same time, be careful not to get small folds. It is most convenient to carry out the ironing operation on the edge or on a special pad.

The next stage: we grind the edging to the allowance near the seam seam, turn it to the wrong side. The edge should be swept so that the seam is located near the fold from the inside out, and from the front side it would not be visible. You can also stitch off the neckline - if you wish.

Further actions

The seam is attached to the overlays of each shoulder seam with a pair of stitches. If the design includes a zipper, stitch it in before you begin to cleanly grind the neckline.

The allowances of its short cuts protruding beyond the edges of the cut should be turned off and sewn to the fabric tape of the zipper. In the case of a side product (or one with a one-piece edge), the latter is first turned off onto the front of the product, then the neck with its facing is already cleaved off. After that, the facing is trimmed until its short cut enters the edge by 1 cm and sharpened.

Then, in a similar way, the seam allowances are cut close to the stitching, the edge (or cut edge), together with the neck edge, are turned to the wrong side and stitched, then ironed on and sewn to each other.

A neck in the shape of a square or a V-neck is processed in the same way as a round one. To turn the piping to the wrong side, the seam allowances in the corners should be cut and at the top, cut almost close to the seam.

Armhole processing

But it's not just the neck that requires attention. Handling the armholes is just as important. They are also sharpened cleanly by turning, similar to a round neck. It is convenient at the same time to carry out side seams at the same time. This will allow you to adjust the product in width without stripping off the piping - due to the allowance for each side seam. It is important in this case that the allowances for the facing and side seams of the product itself coincide in width.

How can this be achieved? First, you should process the shoulder seams both on the product and on each facing with overcasting and ironing the allowances. Then - overcast the piping along the inner edges. Throughout the product (on both sides), the facing is chipped off with the armhole with the front sides and grinded.

The seam allowances are cut very close to the notch stitching in the rounded sections and ironed onto the facing. Then it is sharpened to the seam allowances next to the seam. One line is used to grind the facing with the side cuts of the product. The seam allowances are swept and ironed out. The piping is turned inside out to the wrong side, the edge is sewn out. Then it is sewn to the seam allowances (side and shoulder).

How to make a single facing of armholes and necklines

This operation is performed for models without sleeves and with narrow shoulders - in this case, the facing of the armholes and necklines are a single piece. Since, as a result of the connection of all circular cuts, the turning of the piping is not possible, the shoulder seams are temporarily left open. They are grinded down later.

First, the bottom cuts of the facing are overcast. They should be folded with the neck and armholes cut to each other with the front sides. Then chop off the cuts of the armholes and necklines with the alignment of the seam lines. Stitch, leaving about 3 cm of seam unstitched below the marked shoulder line. Tack along the edges of the seam.

Seam allowances are cut close to the stitching. The facing on the front is turned inside out, in front with the back and the facing are folded with their front sides. Before it is pinned to the back along the marked shoulder line, it is sharpened. Then the shoulder lines of the facing are cleaved and also grinded.

Allowances are ironed out at the shoulder seams. Open cuts of armholes and necklines are chipped and grinded. The front is pulled out from each shoulder edge of the back, while the back trim is automatically turned out to the wrong side. The edges of the armholes and necklines are ironed on from the side of the piping. The side cuts of the facing and the product itself are folded face to face and chipped, then grinded with a single stitch.

If the shoulder sections are very narrow

When the width of the shoulder cuts is 3 cm or less, the trims are pinned to them face to face and sharpened exactly to the place of the shoulder seams, at the end of which a bartack is made. The allowances are also cut very close to the notch stitching in the rounded sections.

The piping is turned to the wrong side, ironed on. Shoulder cuts are grinded with the right sides without seizing the piping. The seam allowances are laid out, the folded edges are sewn end-to-end with several stitches.

Net mowing with bias tape

Another type of processing a cut of an armhole or a cutout of a product is processing the neck with an oblique inlay, both ready-made and cut from fabric. Ready-made inlay (made of cotton or other material) can be bought at any sewing store... They are matte or glossy, their range is wide enough. Recommended width of finished tape folded in half is 4 cm.

Processing the neck with a tape begins with its unfolding and ironing. If it is decided to cut it out of the main or lining fabric, the inlay blank is folded in half inside the wrong side, ironed to give the inlay the shape of a rounded cut (this operation is called "pulling the edges"), open cuts are planted.

The tape and the neck cut are pinned to each other with the front sides in such a position that the bend of the tape is about one and a half centimeters from the planned seam line, and its open cuts are on the allowance. The inlay is sewn on from the inside of the back and front exactly along the line marked for the neckline. The seam allowances are cut off.

The bias tape is turned to the wrong side, its edges are marked and ironed on. Another shoulder seam is made, side cuts are sewn. Attention should be paid to the even arrangement of the neck cuts relative to each other. At the resulting seam, the allowances are ironed out, swept and manually sewn along the neckline. Neck stitching - optional.

How to handle corners

If the corners are internal, the bias tape is sewn to the corner. It turns to the side, the fold is secured with a pin, the inlay is stitched from the corner, swept out and ironed on. A fold is laid and sutured in the corner. From the front side, the edge is peeled off.

When processing the outer corners, the slanting inlay is grinded to the corner, its allowance for the inlay is notched next to the last stitch, then the inlay is grinded from the notch. In the corner, the allowance is notched obliquely. The binding is swept to the seamy side, a fold is formed and sewn in the corner. The edges are ironed on and tucked away.

To prevent the curvature of the cuts of both the neckline and the armholes in the process of turning with a bias tape, the non-woven fabric should be ironed from the inside out.

Sewing the side cuts should be started after cleaning the armhole cleanly.

If the garment does not have a fastener in the neck area, you should start by stitching the shoulder sections. Do not forget to iron and overcast the seam allowances.

Knitted neck processing

Knitwear is the constant leader among the fabrics from which models are sewn women's clothing... The most elegant and elegant models are obtained from it. They are practical and comfortable and can be worn all year round.

The finishing of the neckline in knitwear plays an important role. There are many options here - finishing with various elastic bands, a roll made of (we are talking about hand-knitted products in which the neck is processed with knitting needles), decorative edges, etc.

Consider the processing technology of the neck of a product made from elastic jersey. For example, let it be the dressing of the neckline of the dress. Suppose our neck is in the shape of a boat, we will process it with a facing. The principle of processing is the same for any shape of the cut - oval, square, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, according to the figure, we clarify the shape that our neck has. Processing it begins with folding the entire product in half and pinning it with pins. We cut out the edging from a cut of fabric folded in half, attaching it to the neckline and circling the latter with chalk.

As you know, in knitwear, the neck stretches more easily, so that the edging is subject to gluing with a knitted doublerin. If the knitwear is tight enough, you can get by with the usual non-woven fabric.

We grind the edging along the shoulder seams and pin or stitch to the neck of the product. We lead the line at a distance of about 7 mm from the edge. The seam allowances are cut to 3-4 mm, and notches are made on them for turning. Fasten the facing with a finishing seam along it at a distance of about 1 mm from the seam.

The bias tape processing option is only suitable for an oval-shaped neck.

So our neck is ready. Processing it, as you can see, is not such a difficult matter. Good luck to all in mastering the secrets of sewing skills!

One-piece trimming of necklines and armholes of dresses is one of the most popular methods among tailors. When processing the necklines and armholes with one-piece edging, the necklines and armholes of the dress look very nice and neat. In addition, using this technology, you can easily sew a sheath dress on a lining, you just need to cut it out (excluding the trims) and sew on the bottom of the trims of the sheath dress. "How to sew a sheath dress"

This processing is used when sewing sleeveless products.

Processing with one-piece facing of the neck and armholes of the dress

One-piece edging - finished product

Before you start processing the armholes of the case dress and the neckline of the case dress with one-piece edging, you should sew a zipper into the case dress, sweep the dress completely and try on the case dress. Then remove the basting at the shoulder seams.

How to properly sew a zipper into a dress or skirt, see How to sew a dress with a hidden zipper

Work description:

1. On the main product (dress), process the side cuts, sweep and grind the side seams. The shoulder seams of the sheath dress should remain open.

2. One-piece edging is cut out exactly along the neckline and armholes of the dress in a 4 cm wide case with seam allowances the same as in the case dress. The thermal fabric is cut out without taking into account the seam allowances. The trims are duplicated with thermal fabric. If darts were provided on the sheath dress, they should be closed on the paper pattern of the sheath dress and reshoot exactly according to the pattern of the sheath dress with the darts already closed.

One-piece facing of the front of the sheath dress - 1 piece with a fold.

8. Continue basting and baste the piping to the zipper tape just beyond the seam where the zipper is sewn.

9. Sew the neck of the dress with the case and the armholes of the dress, up to the marks.

10. Sew the sleeve of the back of the dress as shown in the photo (the zipper stitching line remains inside).

11. Cut the allowances before reaching the stitches at the fillet points, obliquely at the top edge of the zipper.

Greetings to all sewing lovers! While completing one of the orders, I thought that perhaps it would be interesting and useful for you to know how one of the moments of the sewing process is performed. It's about an embossed jacquard blouse. on a blouse can be done in different ways.

This blouse has a round neck and no sleeves. It is necessary to process the bodice so that it is both beautiful from all sides and comfortable to wear. There will be a hidden zipper in the center of the back of the blouse.

In the photo you can see a shelf and two halves of the back.

For processing the bodice, I used one-piece edging, which are cut out along the contours of the front and back, as shown in the photo. The lines of the armholes, shoulder cuts and the neckline completely coincide.

The trims must be glued with non-woven material.

Then stitch on the shelf and bodice, respectively, without reaching a few centimeters to the shoulder seams, and on the back to the central seam.

Then you need to fold the front sides of the shoulder sections of the main parts and details of the facing and grind them together.

At the same time, open areas are formed in the region of the shoulder cuts along the neckline and along the armholes.

The shoulder cuts of the main parts and facing parts must be ironed out and the open areas along the neckline and along the armholes must be stitched.

From the side of the shelf, turn the blouse to the front side and perform one operation. It consists in unscrewing the allowances along the neckline and armholes to the side of the piping and stitching along the front side of the piping, retreating 3 mm from the seam.

If the shoulders are narrow, then this operation is not easy. I do it in several stages. I begin to sew from the side seams to the shoulder cuts as much as the machine allows. Then, I do the same from the side of the other side seam. In some place, the lines are found one on top of the other and the operation ends there. The revision has been completed. It is better to cut the seam allowance so that it does not pull on the seams in the finished product.

This is the look of the blouse after the turn-over.

After that, it is necessary to fold the side cuts with the front sides and grind them together with the edging. Iron the seams and overlock the bottom of the seams along the entire length.

Then it will be necessary to finally connect the piping with the bodice along the neckline and the central seam of the back. I have already talked about this, and you can familiarize yourself with this moment in this.

At the final stage, it is necessary to fix the edging so that it does not dangle. On the side seams, I did it by hand, and along the front of the bodice and along the back in some places I fixed it with adhesive tape.

When processing neck and armholes with one-piece edging, you can use several options for the sequence of work. I work separately with the shelf and the back, because that's more comfortable for me. But, you can immediately grind the shoulder cuts of the facing and upper parts, respectively, and work with solid parts. This is the second option. And the third option is to cut out the facing without any shoulder seams at all. But, this is possible only if you have enough fabric for it.

After ironing all the seams, necklines and armholes, the bodice of the blouse looks like this. All the top seams are covered with edging and you don't have to worry that something will happen to them.

In this photo you can see the whole blouse. For her, I sewed a wide belt (from the same fabric), which I already talked about earlier in. If you also need a fabric belt, you can use this sewing method.

I hope that I have explained everything clearly, and that you, if necessary, will cope with this operation. This method of processing the armhole and neckline with a one-piece seam can be used for blouses, dresses and tops, provided that the back consists of two halves. If there is no incision in the center of the back and it is one-piece, then this operation is performed differently.

Practice, improve your qualifications. I wish you enjoy sewing and creating new products. !

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Head wreath from decorative flowers do it yourself

There are many ways to process this node, I know of at least six. The choice of this or that method depends on the type of product, the characteristics of the fabric and the width of the shoulder cut.

Today I will show you one of my favorite ways. In it, I like the simplicity of execution and the ability to sew from the inside out the neck completely around the entire circumference, and not partially, as in other methods. This method is suitable for dressing with medium or wide shoulder cuts. If the straps are narrow, it is better to choose a different type of treatment.

For this master class, the pattern of model 107 from Burda 9/2012 was used as a basis:

Pattern:

Large drawing, leather pockets, A-line ... Ioannina chose a dress similar to the one she wore ...

In order to process the seamy side of the top of the product with edging, it is necessary to cut out the details of the shelf and back from the fabric, make a fitting and make adjustments, if necessary.

In addition, you will need:

Lining fabric (you can also use the main one);

Glue dublerin;

Tracing paper or any paper for transferring the pattern;

Simple pencil;

French pattern-droplet;

Threads, tailor's pins, fabric and paper scissors, ruler.

Step 1

First you need to cut out the facing. If your dress has not undergone any changes during the fitting process, it is better to cut it by reshooting the detail from the dress pattern.

In this case, I corrected the details of the dress, so we will transfer the lines of the neckline of the armholes, the side lines and the lines of the center to tracing paper, superimposing ready-made fabric details on it. Transfer along with the allowances.

Step 2

On the part of the shelf, we carry marks at a distance of 4 cm from the cuts of the armholes and the neck, connect them with a smooth line using a French pattern. If you do not have such a template, you can use any object with smooth outlines, for example, a plate.

Step 3

Similarly, draw the bottom line on the back details. Now you can cut the patterns of the facing parts.

Important!

When cutting out the piping pattern, cut 2 mm along the lines of the armholes and the neckline, so that when connected to the main parts, a beautiful transitional piping is formed, and the piping is not visible from the front side.

Step 4

Next, you need to cut out the details of the edging on the fabric and duplicate them. When cutting a trim from fabric, pay attention to the direction of the share threads: the direction of the share thread of the trim must coincide with its direction on the main parts of the front and back.

Duplicate the trimming details with glue doublerin using an iron. It is better to duplicate the details completely, together with allowances, so that the neck and armholes do not deform during operation.

Important!

If necessary, you can duplicate with a thin strip of glue cuts of the neck and armholes on the details of the shelf and back from the main fabric. My facing is processed with a rather dense doublerin, so I decided not to do this.

It is up to you to decide whether to duplicate the seam allowances. It depends on the density of the fabric and the dublenine. If it is necessary to reduce the thickness along the lines of the neck and armholes, then the allowances do not need to be duplicated. But at the same time, the dublerin should go to the line of the future line of joining the details of the dress and the trim.

Please note: if you put the finished edging details on the shelf and back, you can see that they do not reach the neckline and armholes by 2 mm.

Step 5

Darts, side seams and a back seam must be stitched and overcast on the dress, as well as a zipper. Leave the shoulder seams open.

Step 6

Place the front piping on the shelf from the front side to the front side, aligning the lines of the neckline. Chip and stitch.

Step 7

Trim the allowance down to a width of approx. 4-5 mm, if necessary, trim the allowances in steps: the allowance remains wide, which will lie to the front side, that is, the allowance for the main part, and cut off the facing allowance to a width of approx. 3 mm.

Cut the fillet points close to the line.

Step 8

Iron the allowance on the edging.

Step 9

Place a finishing stitch along the piping along the neckline at a distance of ~ 1-2 mm from the seam, grasping the allowances. Unfasten the piping on the dress.

Step 10

Sweep the neckline and press it on.

Step 11

Treat the neck of the back in the same way. Pay attention to the processing of the zipper: bend the edging, not reaching the zipper ~ 4-5 mm, then bend the zipper and the allowance for the edging, lay a line over this "sandwich". Next, you need to carve out all the extra allowances and corners. Do not sew the piping along the zipper yet.

Step 12

Stitch the side seams of the facing and press on the allowances. If the fabric is fraying, overcast the side seam allowances of the facing.

Step 13

To process the bottom edge of the facing: overcast or process with an inlay.

Clarification: It is possible to grind the side seams of the facing and process its lower cut even before the stage of processing the neckline. It all depends on what kind of operation you need more freedom.

Step 14

Place the piping on the front and back of the front side to the front side, aligning the lines of the armholes. Chip and stitch before shoulder cut approx. 5-7 cm.

Step 15

Unscrew the front strap to the front side and insert it into the back strap with the shelf towards the back and the front facing towards the back. Align the seam and chop off the shoulder seam.

Step 16

Sew shoulder seams, nibble all corners and iron on allowances.