Programs for Android - Browsers. Antiviruses. Communications. Office
  • home
  • Multimedia
  • The emergence of fashion and style. Stages of fashion development. Fashion as a social phenomenon, a combination of styles in clothes

The emergence of fashion and style. Stages of fashion development. Fashion as a social phenomenon, a combination of styles in clothes

Fashion at all times promoted the cult of the body, fashion trends were determined by public moods and events taking place in the life of society, changing the way of life of people. Many girls do not even realize that there is a lot in common between today's fashion trends and the fashion of the 1900s. Let's plunge into history and look at the fashion of the past century.

Fashion 1900

Women's fashion in the era of the 1900s changed along with progressive changes in society and global events such as the First and Second World War, the transition from a woman housewife to an independent woman, which was naturally reflected in fashion.

Today many people think: “the more I undress, the more success I will have”, in fact it is not. The more I hide everything that I have, the more interest I will arouse in a man. To make the illusion of the waist, chest and hips, not to show everything at once - this is what attracts a man. On a subconscious level, a man understands that you are not a slutty woman and that you can build a relationship with you.

The attitude towards nudity in the 1900s was very different than today, women at this time wore Long Dresses and were strongly pulled by corsets so that their waist became like an hourglass. If today many actresses are ready to undress for filming in glossy magazines and most people consider this to be normal, then in the 1900s women did not allow themselves such acts and it was considered debauchery. The fashion of this time tried to emphasize the feminine nature, to show the man what he loves most, namely the contrast between the chest, waist and hips, but veiled. Even the makeup slightly emphasized the facial features and was almost invisible. The fashion of those years created a unique way of life and the models of this time correspond to the grace and fragility of the Art Nouveau period. A tightly drawn waist, open sleeves, a large hat, dresses made with a beautiful tren, trimmed with a long train - all this is now back in fashion. Rounded shapes were in vogue, a woman's fullness meant her health, if a girl was thin, it was considered that she was not healthy.

Russian ballet made a big revolution in the fashion of the 20th century. S.P. Diaghilev in 1909 brought Russian ballet to Paris at the Châtelet Theater. To gather a large audience, the dancers of his troupe wore bras instead of corsets, which were introduced in fashion in 1903, but became popular only after the days of Russian ballet in Paris, they had an open stomach and open arms. Diaghilev's troupe was also not thin, the ballet in those days was different from today.

In the First World War in 1914, fashion changed dramatically. The men go to the front. For the first time in human history, women are becoming lonely. All male duties fall on the shoulders of women, women go to work as sisters of mercy in the army, in trade, in factories and factories, being trained in male professions, which was the beginning of emancipation. In connection with these, the cult of female beauty is changing - rounded shapes go out of style. Since there were no such women left by the end of the war in 1918, the war brought stress, hunger and suffering, women had to work hard, wear work clothes that were previously worn only by men. The cult of magnificent ladies is leaving, because due to lack of food they are not left.

At the end of the war, designer Paul Poiret, famous in those days in France, changed his attitude to women's clothing, he completely excludes the corset from women's clothing. Clothes are kept around the neck, it becomes possible to bare the back. The back becomes the main subject of interest for men. The new silhouette resembles rather a board - it is straight, completely simplified, the haircut was made up of short hair, the style was called "la garçonne" - from French into Russian it can be translated as "girl-boy" or "kid". Women allow themselves even more - they dress up in transparent muslin dresses, beaded and bugles, which were often worn on the naked body. The woman's makeup became bright.

The length of the skirts is getting shorter. This led to the rise of sexuality, women felt more relaxed and free. An emphatically free lifestyle was fashionable in those days, women were given the right to vote.

1920s fashion

The beauty canon of a woman of the 20s - she has a short haircut with bangs, black eyelids, small lips, a flat chest, a short knee-length dress without emphasizing the waist, which is held on a strap around her neck and a cigarette, smoking was fashionable in those days.

And those women who discovered the world of male power and male professions: they did hard work in the rear, worked in factories and provided all possible assistance to the front fighters, these women entered sports independently in the 1920s, women's amateur football teams and hockey teams were created, women's boxing. Women begin to lose traits of femininity, they have a desire to show their strength.

In the 1920s, many women's clubs appeared. There are not enough men for everyone in the post-war years. A woman is forced to bear the burden of duties that men used to carry. And this is reflected in the fashion of the 20s. Women gradually change into men's clothing, pants and boots, short haircuts and a men's jacket.

Mixed beaches are allowed, previously there were sections for male and female beaches. The first mixed beach is the Floria beach in Constantinople. Women now spend more time on the beach to meet men. A tanned body is coming into vogue.

Fashion of the 30s is a setback. Return to fashion curvaceous forms and smooth lines emphasizing the grace of the female figure, the sensual thirties came to replace the chaotic emancipated years. Long dresses are in fashion again, hiding everything that emancipated women showed. However, the makeup remained bright. Having received the same rights as a man, a woman realized that she did not have to become like a man and compete with him in brute strength, her role is to be fragile, sensual and vulnerable.

40s fashion

The fashion of the 40s was inspired by the Second World War. Especially during the war, there was a shortage of fabrics, many dresses were changed from old ones, platform shoes were in fashion, women lost the opportunity to take care of their hair, so the main accessory of a woman was a turban. long hair were combed up and hidden in turbans, thus women wore high hair. Wide shoulders in women's clothing. Military style and dark practical shades are in fashion: dark brown, burgundy. Bags were often square in the form of a bandolier, python and crocodile leather is in vogue, because all other types of leather are used for soldiers' uniforms. The zipper in the back became popular and was on almost all women's dresses.

After the end of the Second World War, a sporty and fit female body, large forms and an accentuated waist, a cult of sports and women's activism are in vogue. This is due to the fact that women took an active part in labor activities in the post-war years.

50s fashion

In the 1950s, corsets are again in vogue, emphasizing the wasp waist of a woman, just like in the 1900s, the only differences were in openness. modern outfits as some of them had a wide neckline. The fashion of the 50s copies almost everything from the fashion of the early twentieth century. Plaid tight-fitting trousers, plaid jackets and dresses, and polka dot dresses are in vogue. Women's shoulders become narrow again. The main feature is slimness and grace, round hats and pointed shoes - all this emphasizes the independent image of a woman.

60s fashion

In the 1960s, petite women were in vogue. The sexual revolution gave rise to special looks - doll faces, thinness, loose straight hair, short loose haircuts, little dresses or daring miniskirts. Space flights are reflected in fashion, in the form of unusual outfits of girls, which are not widely spread among the masses. The hippie movement in 1968 makes its own changes in fashion, so the unisex style appears, shirts and trousers of a man's cut, from men, women are distinguished only by a slim figure, high boots and long hair, stripes and stickers "love" and "peace".

70s fashion

The 1970s saw several styles: the increasingly popular hippie style, as well as punk, glam rock, unisex and bohemian styles. Flared trousers, flowing fabrics, clothes with bright prints and fringes are in fashion. Lungs are the most popular among hippies. summer dresses bright colors in combination with a denim jacket or denim vest, hippies preferred sandals or light boots from shoes. Their arms and neck were decorated with beads made of natural materials and baubles. The hippie style is an American style, it was considered folkloric and took its inspiration from the Indian tribes. The bohemian style was represented by dresses and sundresses using chiffon. Bohemian style emphasized romance and femininity using wide sleeves, pleats and lace embroidery in the images of women.

80s fashion

The 1980s are the years when several styles predominated:

  • youth hip-hop - street style,
  • sporty style- aerobics and fitness (became fashionable and gained popularity),
  • aggressive sexuality - this style of a woman passed from television screens and was embodied in life.

The concept of the beauty of the female body is changing - slender are in fashion, sports girls... The film industry has had a significant impact on women. It became fashionable what the main characters of the films wore, but mostly they were fashion brands from Versace, Valentino, Emanuel Ungaro, Cerutti, Chanel, Christian Lacroix. The women tried to be like the main characters of the blue screen and bought clothes of famous brands with great desire.

In the eighties, women prove to society that they are capable of doing business no worse than men. They do business, create financial corporations, or hold key positions in many millions of companies - this is how the concept of a business woman appears. The image of a business woman is a strict and graceful style of a business woman: fitted dresses, trouser suits, blazers and jackets with wide shoulders, evening dresses.

90s fashion

In the 1990s, grunge and hip-hop styles are most popular among teenage girls, as in the world of youth music, stars showcase the street style of hip-hop. Another reason for the popularity of the style is the convenience in everyday life of this clothing: jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, you could wear comfortable sneakers and boots from shoes.

Thanks to the group "Nirvana" in the nineties, the grunge style became popular, the group had a huge success among young people and teenagers wanted to be like Kurt Cobain. Young girls wore sweaters two sizes up and baggy jeans, showing their indifference to fashion. Characteristic feature style is casual dress. Adherents of the style wore: shirts with outstretched elbows, ripped jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets, sneakers and heavy boots. Grunge with its features vaguely resembled the hippie era, but was devoid of the lightness of that style.

In the nineties, after the collapse of the USSR, clothes came to Russia from Western Europe, as well as Turkey and China. Many clothing markets offered clothing of varying quality at reasonable prices. Everything that was fashionable in the West after the fall of the Iron Curtain was happily accepted in Russia along with Western films and consumer goods.

2000 fashion

The year two thousand has come. Frank outfits have come into fashion, apparently due to the lack of materials and the depletion of the planet's resources, all clothes are becoming shorter in exactly two. In fashion: short tops, mini-skirts, open sleeves and deep neckline, minimalism in clothes, and it doesn't matter if the girl has a slender body or she has curvaceous forms. Of course, the priority is for girls who devote time to fitness.

Short cocktail dresses are replacing long ones evening dresses and with this a clutch comes to replace the handbag.

Among teenagers, denim is in vogue, which has changed a lot since the days of hip-hop in the nineties. Denim style has changed, it has become brighter and more feminine - skinny jeans, jeans with a low waist, with holes in the knees, decorated with a pattern of rhinestones, fitted denim jackets and jackets. This style of clothing is not at all similar to what teenage girls wore in the nineties.

In conclusion of the article, I would like to note:

Beauty is a unique aesthetic representation. As soon as beauty becomes replicated, it ceases to be beauty and often becomes vulgar. Therefore, fashion is always an effort on yourself, and as soon as you dress comfortably and comfortably (as hundreds of thousands of other women do), you already become not fashionable, but replicated. Therefore, always in any era, beauty requires sacrifice and suffering from a woman, suffering in heels, from diet, from false eyelashes. Beauty is effort.

Usually, fashion changes dramatically every ten years, minor changes occur every six months. Fashion can only be seen through the prism of the past, no one could ever foresee fashion, we can only assume. Fashion depends on global changes in the world, on events that make people look at things differently and change their way of life, and update accordingly. fashionable wardrobe... Fashion helped people find themselves, fashion is a lever with which a woman achieved self-expression.

Today I looked through various retro photographs, which capture the history of people's lives, and then I thought it would be nice to see photographs that dealt with fashion, to see how it changed, how, interestingly, fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review related to fashion by decades. I will make a reservation right away that I will not cite as an example women who were popular at a certain time, it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just talk about fashion.

Let's start from the 10s of the XX century.

Corsets held back women for years, made their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and life was harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant diseases due to too tightly tightened "shells" - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, but very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally breathed out - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses became fashionable - that is why the tenth years were remembered as the years of "liberation" of women from the oppression of one of the most uncomfortable items of dress, and Paul Poiret became a real deliverer for ladies of high society.

In the tenths, Russian chic was in vogue - the "Russian Seasons", brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by huge amount receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of haute couture from Parisian women.

It was then that all the familiar to us nowadays attributes of "chic life" in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.
Smoothly moving to the fashion of the 20s

During this period, sports, male sports figures, and female forms began to gradually lose its relevance and popularity. The ideal is a slender lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called the reformer and revolutionary of the fashion of this period. Along with her in these times, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionne, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille ", the house of fur fashion" Jacques Heim "and others.

Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of jewelry, embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called "Art Deco", and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

It was the style of embellishment and embellishment. Decor elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

Shoes, trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. Art Deco is an eclectic style, in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with geometric forms of cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

Such a combination of incompatible, mixed in one style.

As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:
- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- fashion coat straight cut tapering to the bottom and with a fur collar;
- Pajama pants and pajamas, in which they went to the beach at that time, are in fashion;
- the first swimwear for women appeared - a revolution in beachwear;
- clothes were sewn from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers appear, but also shorts;
- the appearance of the classic little black Chanel dress.

30s fashion

In these times, the cut of clothing became more complex. Quality ready-made clothes, produced in large quantities, has increased markedly. Hollywood is the trendsetter in the United States. But even here firms began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These firms distributed new fashion models millions of copies.

Long skirts became the standard of fashion in the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses extended their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached the middle of the calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends have lengthened their clothes on their own. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

A very popular clothing of the 30s was the women's streetwear, which existed in the most a variety of options... Outerwear - coats and jackets were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shapes and finishes. The cut of the suits became more complicated, began to rely on geometry, which gives the silhouette clarity.

Decorative details and adornments were widely used in the costume. Hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in one colors... Accessories were chosen very strictly. They were usually black or Brown and white in summer.

The accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years, except for a hat or a handbag, could not afford anything else.

40s fashion

The dominant fashion trend in the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, lantern sleeves. It is worth noting that at the time, striped clothing was the most popular. The war broke out and the world went into a militarized state, so the fashion of the 40s underwent significant changes. Women have no time to think about makeup and replenishment of their wardrobe.

In this period appearance outfits have been greatly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

Floral designs are returning to fashion: ornaments, small flowers have become the main decoration of fabric and dresses sewn from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to take root in fashion. The discovery of the war period was the popular and nowadays style of "military"

At the same time, a new shoe model was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

Another innovation was the production of turtleneck sweaters, these models with a high collar under the throat deservedly received the recognition of fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

In the post-war years, social differences have become noticeably aggravated. Wives have again become a symbol of their spouses' well-being, as a kind of showcase for those around them. Visiting a hairdressing salon and applying makeup has become a mandatory ritual for every woman. An ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully equipped in the early morning: with the perfect hairdo, heels and makeup, stand by the stove or vacuum the carpet.

Even in the Soviet Union, in which the way of life was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to do hair styling in a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to come into fashion with particular swiftness.

The '50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, extended shoulder silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, special requirements were imposed on the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

To meet these standards, women wore corsets, tucked cloth or cotton into their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of the beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Clara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the 1950s style resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which they put on a multilayer petticoat, high heels with stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings are required accessory to complete the image and they were extremely expensive. But women did not go to any lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties following fashion trends. It was problematic to buy fabrics at that time, they were released into one hands no more than a certain amount, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt under the "new silhouette", it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s were the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. A new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. 1959 saw the release of the French film Babette Goes to War with Brigitte Bardot in the title role. A casually whipped hairstyle with a pile, despite the fact that it takes a lot of time for fashionistas to create it, is becoming super popular.

Accessories became very popular: beads made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, "macro", which covered the half of the face.

In London, the most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born - a miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, legendary Mary Quant showed the first collection of mini-length pieces. The new style, called "London style", very quickly conquered the youth of the whole world.

The 60s is the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.

Fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of the mini length fashion and the dance style of the same name.
Fashion from the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, the hippies emphasized the denial of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately sloppy and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bags over the shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, we can say that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The motto of the 70s was the expression "Everything is possible!" The couturiers presented several styles for the choice of progressive and active young people, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-shaped dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that the clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other, appeared. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

Of the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonya Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

In the fashion of the 80s, retro images intertwined, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance styles, and the continuing boom of sports.

Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, break dance, snowboarding, skateboarding, roller skates, step aerobics - all these phenomena have reflected in the style of the decade.

The list of iconic items from a decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari clothing, kimono, bat and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, frayed denim, so-called, dumplings, black leather jackets, lurex, massive bijouterie, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of " wet hair», Cascading haircuts, spiral perm., hair decorative flowers, type "eggplant", highlighting "feathers". A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massive 1980s can be described as excessive. Everything is, as it were, "too" - too narrow, too voluminous, too catchy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decor elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

The style of the 90s in clothes, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to the choice of clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your own image is changing, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main appeal of the nineties is "to be what you are!" In those days, special attention was paid to denim clothing - only the lazy did not go in it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and shoes. So the style of the 90s can be safely called "denim", since every person had such a thing in more than one copy.

In the nineties, unisex fashion spread around the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

The nineties - the time of sneakers and flat shoes. This unisex style is very fond of large Italian and American companies such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when along with strict asceticism in the costume there is a deliberate theatricality with a bright gamut of colors. Fashion changes depending on the social orientation and territoriality, as in Europe, bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.

The main fashionable focus of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. Fashionable image is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky white skin. The culture of the body flourishes as in the days of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and women of fashion not only visit sports clubs that have appeared thanks to, but also actively visit beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Runway supermodels become role models, with television and fashion magazines making a significant contribution to this.

Well. This concludes my review. I would like to say that of all times, the 30s, 50s and 70s are closer to my preferences. In general, everything new is a long forgotten old.


Fashion history. How did fashion come about?

Fashion history, or the history of the emergence of clothing is like a mirror, which reflects the entire history of civilization. Each country, each nationality at different stages of the development of human society has contributed to the formation of the concept of fashion. Many millennia ago, people discovered clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, developing, they began to reflect on its aesthetic function.

Fashion word(fr. mode) comes from the Latin word modus, meaning such concepts as - rule, prescription, type, measure, image, method.

How did the concept of fashion come about?

Fashion history has its roots in ancient civilizations. How the concept of "fashion" came into being is not known for certain. Most likely, it was formed in Western European countries arbitrarily, due to the constant appearance of new clothes of various styles and different names.

Fashion in clothes, as a global phenomenon, began to take shape in France in the 17th century.

Clothing appeared at the earliest stages of human development. Archaeological excavations told about it. With the help of plant threads, ancient people weaved and knitted various natural materials - leaves, straw, animal skins, etc. Dried large fruits, ostrich egg shells, tortoise shells, etc. were used as headdresses.

There is evidence that already in the Upper (Late) Paleolithic (the period of life that took place 40-12 thousand years ago, when the first modern people settled all over the earth), sewn things appeared for the first time, i.e. people began to use bone needles, with the help of which individual parts of the earliest, still primitive clothing, such as bandages and capes, began to be connected into one whole, fastening them with threads from animal veins or plant fibers... One example of obtaining such data is the 1964 expedition carried out by the Soviet and Russian archaeologist Otto Nikolaevich Bader to the Sungir site (the Upper Paleolithic site of an ancient man in the Vladimir region, discovered in 1955 during the construction of a plant). Sungir is one of the richest and most explored sites of ancient people. During the excavations, which have been going on for almost 30 years, about 70 thousand archaeological finds have been made.

A man 40-50 years old and children - a boy 12-14 years old and a girl 9-10 years old - were found in the Sungir burial. Archaeologists have managed to reconstruct their clothing. The man wore a semblance of a leather shirt with long sleeves worn over the head (similar jackets - (anoraks) are still worn by northern peoples), as well as long leather trousers, sewn together with the likeness of soft leather shoes. The clothes of the man and children were abundantly trimmed with bone beads from mammoth ivory (up to 10 thousand pieces), in addition, there were bracelets and other jewelry made of mammoth bones in the graves.

The estimated age of the finds is 25 thousand years. However, the dates obtained in the course of research in different laboratories are very different, although they are within the period called the interstadial (the time of a slight warming of the climate and a reduction in the area of ​​glaciers between two stages of their onset during the same glaciation). According to studies by Oxford University, the burial was made 29-30 thousand years ago, at the University of Arizona figures were named - 30-33 thousand years ago, at Keele University the figure was also obtained 30 thousand years ago.

These and other archaeological finds make it possible to restore the picture of the appearance of clothing in humans.

The appearance of clothing was preceded by tattoos and body painting. With the help of drawings, people tried to protect themselves from evil spirits and incomprehensible forces of nature, to intimidate enemies and win the favor of friends, to attract attention to themselves.

The first types of clothing were extremely primitive. With the development of man, the tools of labor were improved, respectively, the forms of clothing became more complicated.

Even before our era, during the heyday of ancient civilizations, the prerequisites for the emergence of fashion began to be laid, although such a concept did not exist then. The clothes of the inhabitants of ancient states became more diverse. People learned how to process leather and fur, produce various fabrics, create dyes for fabrics, pleat fabrics, make jewelry, etc. New types of clothing appeared in different states, and wars and trade contributed to the penetration of the traditions of some peoples into the culture of other peoples.

The costumes of people belonging to ancient civilizations indicated the class differentiation that already existed in society at that time. Despite the inevitable borrowing of things, due to the various interactions between different nations, each ancient state had its own dressing traditions.

After the fall of Ancient Rome (Western Roman Empire), a new stage in the development of Europe begins, known as the Middle Ages, and, consequently, new milestones in fashion history... The types and forms of clothing in different regions during the Middle Ages (from the 5th century - earlier the Middle Ages - to the 15th century - the later Middle Ages) are heterogeneous. The early Middle Ages are distinguished by extremely primitive clothing. A fairly simple cut, not very diverse, existed until the 11th century. In the X - XIII centuries, the development of the sewing craft took place, new models of clothing appeared.

Some experts in fashion history believe that the birth of fashion began in the XII-XIII centuries, when elements began to appear in a costume in a large number, not due to necessity, but intended for its decoration.

According to the suggestions of fashion historians, in the 15th century, with the development of tailor's art, the design of clothes was born, the technology of making clothes began to become noticeably more complicated. In the 15th century in Western Europe, the foundations of the cut were laid, which influenced the change in the forms of women's clothing.

In the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century, the fashion of Spain influenced the European style of dress. During this period, called the Golden Age of Spain, the country achieved world economic and political leadership, and accordingly, many elements of the Spanish costume of that time became widely popular.

At the end of the 16th century, the influence on trends in European clothes began to render and Italy, where at that time the Baroque style was born. Italy was famous for its gorgeous fabrics, and all the wealthy public seeking to dress luxuriously wanted to wear Italian velvet, satin, taffeta and lace. The main legislator italian fashion in the 15th century there was Florence, and in the 16th century there was Venice.

During the High Renaissance in Italy, fashion was scientifically detailed for the first time. During the Renaissance, the first literary sources appeared, which spoke about clothing, the first guidelines on how to dress and make up, how best to meet the requirements of modern fashion. These requirements were formulated in the Italian literature of the time. For example, in the treatise of the Italian philosopher, humanist, writer Alessandro Piccolomini "Raffaella, or the beautiful manners of women" (La Raffaella ovvero della bella creanza delle donne), published in 1539, from the dialogue of two heroines - Rafaella and Margherita, discussing clothes, cosmetics, jewelry and other earthly joys, you can learn about some views on fashion. When the young and naive Margherita asks the older, more experienced Rafaella about what is the most important feature fashion, then Rafaella frankly answers her that fashion should be "rich", that the dress should be wide, with many folds.

The relatively frequent change in the shape of the costume in the late Middle Ages, the fascination with novelty, the emergence of imitation give reason to believe that fashion as a socio-psychological phenomenon began to emerge during this period.

However, there was still no general fashion as such.

General fashion in Europe began to establish itself from the middle of the 17th century, and national characteristics faded into the background.

Fashion has long and deeply entered people's lives, it manifests itself in literally all aspects - clothes, hairstyles, accessories, cars and even kitchen gadgets, but still it is more often associated with clothes. The history of fashion begins from ancient times, so today it is taken for granted. But when did people feel the need for it, and this concept arose?

Historians draw a parallel between the emergence of clothing and fashion, because these concepts reflect the entire path of mankind. And each state at different times has contributed to the formation of this phenomenon.

More than one millennium ago, people had clothes, then they were functional things that protected from adverse weather conditions. But gradually they began to give it a more aesthetic look, perhaps from that time the history of fashion began.

Despite the fact that the roots of fashion go back to ancient civilizations, it acquired a global scope in France by the 17th century.

Archaeological research

According to archaeological excavations, clothing originated at the dawn of civilization. Then people used plant threads or animal veins to make it, with which they fastened materials of natural origin. Leaves, tree bark, skins, straw were used. Headdresses were also present and at times they were quite unusual. They were made from ostrich eggshells, tortoiseshells, dried.

It is reliably known that the bone needle, which was used by people for sewing things, they learned to use 30-10 tons. So-called years, it was then that the resettlement took place all over the earth.

The researchers got a lot of archaeological material from the Sungir burial, in which the remains of a man and two children - 9 and 13 years old - were found. Thanks to the reconstruction, it was possible to restore their clothes, for an adult it was a shirt and trousers made of dressed hides and leather.

In addition, all clothing was richly embroidered with mammoth ivory beads. It was not possible to find out the exact age of the finds, but it varies from 25 to 33 thousand years.

The history of the development of fashion has various periods - from a significant rise to a practical extinction, however, the latter did not happen. Naturally, the first clothing was very primitive, however, with the improvement of the tools of labor, the complexity of forms and designs took place.

Craftsmen improved methods of processing furs and leather, learned how to make woven fabrics, obtained natural pigments for dyeing them, make folds and pleating on products. And wars contributed to the fact that the traditions of different states penetrated into other countries.

Medieval and Renaissance

The history of costume and fashion is inseparable, because the national dress is exactly that. It spoke about the class of a person, his marital status, prosperity. Despite the fact that the process of borrowing some details from other nationalities has always taken place, however, peoples have their own traditions that are of great importance.

When Ancient Rome fell, it was time for a new round of history, which was called the Middle Ages. Naturally, the changes also affected fashion. At that time, people living in different regions wore great clothes.

In the early period, it was distinguished by its simplicity and some primitiveness. And this continued until the 11th century. In the X-XIII centuries, there was a surge in the development of sewing skills and more and more completely new models began to appear.

Some historians are sure that the birth of fashion refers precisely to the XII-XIII centuries, when the costumes began to be decorated with elements that did not carry a special load and had exclusively decorative functions.

In the 15th century, the history of fashion began to develop rapidly, and the art of tailoring reached a new level. It was then that model design was born, and technological processes become much more complex. Western Europe was the first to lay the foundations for tailoring, which fundamentally influenced the form of clothing for the fair sex.

The late Middle Ages are characterized by a renewal in the world, including updated silhouettes and models in fashion. Experts note that if we consider fashion as a socio-psychological phenomenon, then its inception falls on this period.

At the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries, European models were influenced by Spanish fashion and the foundations of style. It is not for nothing that this period was called the Golden Age of Spain - the state manages to achieve success in the economy and become one of the political leaders on the world stage. Naturally, and folk National dress this country attracted close attention, many of its elements were borrowed for models in other countries.

At the end of the 16th century, fashion began to be influenced by the trends of another country, namely Italy. Weaving was well developed here, and many women of fashion sought to get local materials. Italian velvet, satin, taffeta and the most delicate lace enjoyed unprecedented popularity among the wealthy public. The main trendsetters turned out to be two regions - in the 15th century Florence, in the 16th the initiative was intercepted by Venice.

Further development

In the Renaissance, the history of fashion received a new round - after all, printed publications began to appear that were devoted to clothing. These were some kind of guides, suggesting what to wear, how to apply makeup, and what meets the requirements today. fashion trends.

And although in the literature of Italy, even in philosophical treatises, there are references to dresses, jewelry and other attributes of beauty and luxury, there was still no fashion in the modern concept at that time. Its intensive formation in developed European countries began to occur in the middle of the 17th century, at the same time the national costume began to recede into another plane.

Modern fashion trends emerged during this period in France, which was facilitated by the growth of the economic and political power of the country, which became, under the rule of Louis the Great, a powerful power.

Having become a political and cultural center, France could not help but become the capital of fashion. Moreover, this phenomenon was not accidental or spontaneous, but an obligatory component of the life of such a developed country.

Thus, the first creators of fashion are considered King Louis XIV and his minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, who pursued politics in such a way that the state took care of the territorial expansion of the country, its cultural and political level.

Then many industries, established and just emerging, became state units, the government controlled their activities. This led to an important milestone in the world of fashion - the production of clothing was separated from its distribution. A legislative framework has appeared - decrees that control the acquisition of luxury goods. Then the royal court was the center of fashion.

At that time, wars were a frequent occurrence, and they influenced the industry as a whole, yet France managed to remain a trendsetter, and its capital, Paris, a cultural center.

In the 17th-19th centuries, the styles and models of clothing underwent significant changes, sometimes becoming more complex, then becoming very laconic. In the middle of the 19th century, the history of fashion experienced its turning point. Important events include the penetration of elements of men's wardrobe into women's, the foundations for the emergence of sportswear were laid, and a general trend towards simplification of models is noted.

Iconic personalities in fashion history

Celebrates the story of a fashion hero - Charles Frederic Worth, a French fashion designer, of English descent. He founded an organization in Paris - the Haute Couture Syndicate, which united the existing fashion houses. This organization exists to this day.

Another famous personality in the field of fashion is Paul Poiret, a fashion designer from France, who is considered a reformer who not only created new models, but also changed the lifestyle of the inhabitants of European countries and America.

The history of the fashion hero gave impetus to the emergence of a galaxy of talented couturiers who have had a significant impact on fashion trends. In addition, their names still inspire respect, and their work has found a modern continuation - these are Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, etc.

The history of fashion is not only the appearance of clothing, it is a deep cultural layer that affects all spheres of human life and allows you to find out various details of the existence of ancestors.

With the help of clothes, a person talks about himself, about his interests and hobbies. Fashion helps people to express to the world their originality, brightness, individuality. She also divides people into age categories, emphasizes their social status.

How fashion appeared

For quite a long time, clothing served only as protection from the cold. The value of clothing was determined only by its warmth and comfort.
Only in the 14th century in France there was a "wardrobe revolution" - the production of fabrics began. Tailors began to develop new styles of clothing and learn how to model it. At the same time, the costumes are beginning to be decorated with beads, stitches of bright threads, and leather fringes.

And in the 15th century in Italy, there is a fashion not only for new types of clothing, but also for incredible hairstyles. Women dye their hair, curl and style in completely unthinkable ways.

In Russia, however, fashion fully penetrates only under Peter the Great. Before him, everything that was brought from other countries was simply prohibited. Peter, as a lover of everything German, began to actively plant German fashion in the state. He issued decrees, describing in detail in them what clothes were prescribed and what were forbidden.

But as an industry, fashion did not exist yet, since there were no people who determined what was fashionable and what was not. There were no artists to create sketches of new models. The customer "on his fingers" explained to the tailor what he wanted, and the tailor sewed.

The official point from which the fashion starts its countdown is considered to be the year 1820. It happened in England. It was then that the clothing industry began to gain momentum very quickly, and the profession of an artist, developing styles of clothing, appeared. This is how the first couturiers appeared.

Literally a few years later, the first fashion houses appeared, which gradually began to compete with each other. The first lines of clothing were produced in very small numbers, since only very wealthy people could afford such clothing.
From that very moment, fashion began to change. At first, these changes were slow and minor, but over time they began to gain momentum. With the reduction in the cost of production of fabrics, fashion began to concern absolutely all segments of the population. More and more imagination and invention were required from fashion designers to surprise the spoiled buyer.

At the moment, fashion is changing so quickly that about a dozen fashion trends change in just one season. Clothing isn't the only thing nowadays fashionable. This includes accessories, jewelry, perfumes, cosmetics.



Top related articles