In the comments to previous entries, readers have repeatedly asked to publish an article with patterns menswear. Finally, I fulfill my promise and share free patterns of two models of trousers. You can download them under the description of tailoring.

Pattern of men's classic trousers

This option is well suited for both office work and everyday wear. It all depends on which fabric you choose. Material consumption shown is for sizes 48, 50, 52 and 54. Side seam length from waistline: 112.5 (114-115.5-117) cm

What will be required:

• 1.75 (1.80-1.85-1.90) m gabardine width. 150 cm
• 35 cm (size 48/50), 40 cm (size 52/54) matching viscose lining, wt. - 140 cm
• 55 cm of cotton linen (lining) in tone, width. - 140 cm
• 15 cm spacer. adhesive material width. 140 cm
• 1.30 m bias tape to match
• 1 zipper per tone - 11cm
• 2 buttons 15 mm in diameter.

Pattern details of men's trousers

Plan for gluing pattern sheets

Copy patterns of details. Draw parts E, F in the form of rectangles. For lining, use the pattern of part 12, connected to part B, up to the marking line (approximately the knee line).

• BACK HALF OF PANTS 11+11A
• FRONT HALF OF PANTS 12+12A
• REVEAL RIGHT SIDE OF CASTLE 13
• BELT 14
• BARREL + POCKET LINING 15
• BACK POCKET LINING 16 = CUT DOWN TO CUT UP TO COMBINE THE FOLD OF THE TRAFFIC WITH THE BOTTOM LINE
• TURNING THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FASTENER A = COPY FROM THE PATTERN DETAILS 12
• BARREL FRONT HALF OF PANTS B = COPY FROM PATTERN DETAILS 15
• FRONT POCKET STITCH WITH = COPY FROM PATTERN DETAILS 15
• BACK POCKET VISIBILITY D = COPY DETAILS FROM LEGAL 16
• LEAF BACK POCKET E = 13X5 CM
• LOOP F = 57X2 CM

Layout plan

Lay out the detail patterns on the fabric folded into a fold. Parts 13, A and F spread out in a spread, see diagrams. On a folded cotton canvas, lay out the indicated patterns. Detail 13 lay out on the canvas in a turn. On the folded viscose lining, lay out the pattern of part 12 (in the transverse direction), as shown in the diagram, aligning the lower cut of the part with the edge. folded cushioning material lay out parts 14 and E. Cut out parts with allowances of 1 cm. Add 5 cm to the bottom hem.

How to sew men's trousers

Duplicate with adhesive pad. material specified parts.

Process the darts on the back halves of the trousers.

On each back half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaflet with set-in ends: pin along the markings of the inside pocket. side down back pocket lining. Iron the leaf along the wrong side. side inward. Stitch it according to the markup to the main part (front sides), directing the leaf with the fold down. Stitch on the opposite side of the pocket marking the face valance. side down so that between the lines there is a gap equal to the width of the leaflet already in finished form. Cut the main detail and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the lines, bend the leaf up, the gap is inside out. side. Sew the edges of the leaves in a zigzag stitch onto the pocket lining. Bend back the lining, laying it over the valance. Straighten the valance and stitch, following the markup, its lower cut onto the pocket lining in a zigzag pattern. Attach the lining to the stitching seam of the valance. Secure the ends of the pocket by sewing along the base of the seam allowances. Sew the edges of the pocket lining. Baste the back pocket lining. Perform bartacks at the ends of the pockets from the faces. sides of the main part.

Finish the front pockets: first zigzag and then straight-stitch the barrel (positioning it wrong side down) on the faces. side of barrel/lining. Sew the facing of the front pocket on the barrel/pocket lining in the same way. Sew along the pocket as described in the Sewing Handbook, sewing over the edge, by hand, with fine stitches.

Baste the front halves of the trousers onto the lining of the front halves of the trousers so that the lining does not tighten the main parts. Overcast the cuts of the main part, connecting the overcasting stitches together with the lining.

Sew the side and step sections of the trousers. Iron the seams.

Fold the halves of the trousers of the faces. sides inward, align their upper sections, step seams and, stepping back about 8 cm from these sections, sew the middle sections to the fastener.

Fold the slope and slope lining and overstitch the outer edges. Trim the allowances to 5 mm. on the front halves. trousers, sew a fastener with undercut facing on the male side.

Work six loops. Baste the belt loops, placing them outside. sides down, on the top cut of the product. Sew the belt loops, sewing seams 2 cm from the top edge.

Trim, adding 1 cm for the allowance, the left side of the belt at the front cut along the markup. Turn over the longitudinal inner sections of each part of the belt with an oblique trim. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and overstitch the ends. Trim the seam allowances of turning to 5 mm, turn the parts of the belt right side out. side, straighten the ends and iron the parts along the middle.

Stitch the parts of the belt from the faces. sides of trouser halves. Iron the seams on the belt. Sew the middle sections of the trousers (in the open area) and the back middles. sections of the belt. Iron the seam to a length of approximately 15-20 cm. Sew the lengthwise edged edge of the inner side of the waistband into the sewing seam.

Bend the cross sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds to the top edge of the belt.

Iron the hem of the trousers inside out. side and sew with blind stitches.

Baste the buttonholes on the markings on the slope and on the left end of the belt. Sew on the buttons according to the buttonholes.

Pattern of men's casual trousers

This model is very similar to the previous one. The pattern in the document is located in a horizontal view, it is recommended to select the “Poster” function when printing and set the scale to 100% (see screenshot below).

You will need:

• main fabric for trousers;
• cotton fabric on burlap pockets;
• 1 m of lining fabric;

Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin

Many needlewomen would like to sew trousers for their relatives and beloved men: husband, brother or son. And if it was only a pattern, then in this article we will tell you how to build a drawing base pattern men's trousers , i.e. the basics of men's trousers.

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the length, width or configuration of the side and step sections, as well as using other simple tricks, you can create the necessary patterns. This classic suit trousers patterns And sweatpants patterns, work pants patterns And beach shorts patterns etc.

Building patterns of men's trousers not as difficult a matter as some think or as it might seem at first glance.

The main thing, take accurate measurements, follow all the recommendations of this instruction and the pattern for a specific figure is ready.

As an example, we use the measurements of our conditional client, and you take measurements from the figure of your man and, when constructing a pattern of trousers, operate with your numbers.

We need the following measures:

Construction of a drawing of a pattern of the front half of the trousers.

On the left side of the sheet of paper we draw a vertical line, on which we set aside the length of the trousers (db) 105 cm and put points T and H. From these points to the right horizontally we draw straight lines of arbitrary length.

Seat height.

From the point T down we set aside 27 cm - this is the height of the seat according to the measure (Vs) and set the point W, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Knee line.

From the point T we set aside 58 cm down (the length to the knee according to the measure (Dbk) and set the point K, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Hip line.

From point W upwards, set aside 1/3 of the seat height (Sc) and set point B, from which we also draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

SB = Sun: 3 = 27: 3 = 9 cm.

And you substitute your values ​​into the formula.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the step line. From the W point to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and set the W1 point:

The fold line of the front half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, denote the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is denoted respectively T1, B1, K1, H1. Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it.

The middle section of the front half of the trousers (bow line).

From W1 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and set the point W3:

From point Ш3 we draw a vertical upwards, the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2, respectively.

From the point Ш3 up vertically, we set aside the value of the segment Ш1Ш3 and set the point Ш4. This can be done with a compass.

Ш3Ш4 = Ш1Ш3 = 5.3 cm. You operate with your numbers.

We connect W4 and W1 with an auxiliary dashed line, divide it into three equal parts, lay it down at a right angle of 0.3 cm from the lower division point. We denote this point with the number 1 and connect it with a smooth line with points B2 and W1. See the picture below.

The upper section of the front half of the trousers (waistline).

From T2 down we set aside 1 cm and set the point T3. From the point T2 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the waist (St) plus 2 cm and set the point T4:

T2T4 \u003d St: 2 + 2 cm \u003d 42: 2 + 2 \u003d 23 cm.

We connect point T4 with point T3 with a dotted line.

The tuck in the front half of the trousers.

Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it. At point T1, a tuck or fold is constructed, depending on the model. We will build a tuck, and you are guided by your tasks.

Set aside 1 cm from T1 to the left and right and put points T5 and T6. From T1 down we set aside the length of the tuck 8 cm, designate this point with the number 8 and connect it with points T5 and T6.

With the help of a compass, we align the sides of the tuck on the smaller side, and draw a waist line from point T4, through the ends of the tuck to point T3.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line.

From K1 to the left and to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the knee (according to the measure of Sk) plus 2 cm and set the points K2 and K3:

K1K2 \u003d K1K3 \u003d Sk: 2 + 2 cm \u003d 19: 2 + 2 \u003d 11.5 cm.

Draw vertical lines down from points K2 and K3 until they intersect with the bottom line and set points H2 and H3.

Note: The width of the trousers along the lines of the knee and bottom may be different. We are building trouser base pattern, which we will use later. for modeling various styles of trousers. If you do not plan to use this template in the future, you can immediately set the necessary parameters for the width of the trousers on this drawing.

The bottom line of the front half of the trousers. We set aside 1 cm from point H1 upwards and, connecting this point with points H2 and H3, we draw the bottom line of the front half of men's trousers.

Side cut of the front half of the trousers. We make a side cut using a pattern. The side line of the front half of the trousers smoothly runs from point T4, through points B and W to point K2, and then in a straight line from K2 to H2. See the picture below.

Step cut of the front half of the trousers. We connect the points K3 and Sh1 with an auxiliary dashed line, divide it in half, from the division point to the left at a right angle we set aside 0.3 cm. We connect the points Sh1, 0.3 and K3 with a smooth line.

Pocket on the front half of trousers. As an example, we will build two types of pockets on the front half of the trousers.

The first kind of pocket. From the point T4 we set aside 5 cm to the right and down -15 cm. We connect the points with a straight line. This is a classic pocket.

Second type of pocket: From the point T4 we set aside 8 cm down and connect it with a smooth line to the point T6. These pockets are often used in sportswear. This line is shown as a dotted line in the figure below.

All figures are given as an example only.

Important, so that the size of the entrance to the pocket ensures the free passage of the hand, this is approximately 13 - 16 cm.

The construction of the front half of men's trousers is completed.

Construction of a drawing of a pattern for the back half of the trousers.

Let's start building the back half of men's trousers. I draw your attention to the fact that when building the back half, we will use the same letters as when building the front half. Be careful!

To build a drawing of the back half of the trousers, we extend the lines of the waist, hips, step, knee and bottom, as shown in the figure below.

On the right side we draw a vertical line, we denote the intersection points, respectively, T, B, W, K and H.

The width of the back half of the trousers along the step line. From the W point to the left, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and set the W1 point:

ШШ1 \u003d Sat: 2 + 5 cm \u003d 50: 2 + 5 \u003d 30 cm.

The fold line of the back half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, denote the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is denoted respectively T1, B1, K1, H1.

Auxiliary lines of the middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

From the point W1 to the right, set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and set the point W3:

W1W3 \u003d Sat: 10 + 0.3 cm \u003d 50: 10 + 0.3 \u003d 5.3 cm.

Draw a vertical line from point W3. The intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2.

Segment T2T1, divide into three equal parts. The right division point is denoted by the letter T3. From point T3 we draw a vertical line upwards, on which we set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) minus 1.5 cm and set point T4:

T3T4 \u003d Sat: 10 - 1.5 cm \u003d 50:10 - 1.5 \u003d 3.5 cm.

We connect points T4 and W3 with a dotted line. The intersection with the line of the hips is denoted by the letter B3.

From the point Ш3 along the bisector of the angle, set aside 1/20 of the semicircumference of the hips (Сб) and set the point Ш4:

W3W4 \u003d Sat: 20 \u003d 50: 20 \u003d 2.5 cm.

Expansion along the step line of the back half.

From the point W1 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 2.3 cm and set the point W5:

W1W5 \u003d Sat: 10 + 2.3 cm \u003d 50: 10 + 2.3 \u003d 7.3 cm.

Upper section (waistline) of the back half of the trousers.

We continue the T2T waistline with a dotted line to the right. From point T4 we make a notch on this line with a radius equal to 1/2 of the half-circumference of the waist (St) plus 3 cm and put point T5:

T4T5 \u003d St: 2 + 3 cm \u003d 42: 2 + 3 \u003d 24 cm.

Back tuck at trousers.

We connect the points T4 and T5 with a straight line and divide the segment T4T5 in half, set the point T6, from which we lay down the length of the tuck 12 cm down at a right angle. From the point T6 to the left and right we set aside 1.5 cm, put the points T7 and T8, these points we connect with point 12 and get a tuck in the back half of the trousers.

The width along the hip line of the back half of the trousers.

From point B3 to the right on the continuation of the line of the hips, we set aside 27.3 cm. We obtain this value as a result of the following calculations. Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) plus 2 cm on loose fit and minus the width of the front half of the trousers along the hip line (we measure between points BB2 according to the drawing of the front half of the trousers). We put point B4.

B3B4 \u003d Sat + 2 cm - 24.7 cm (width of the front half)\u003d 50 + 2 - 24.7 \u003d 27.3 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line of the back half of the trousers.

From K1 to the left and to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the knee (SK) plus 3.5 cm and set the points K2 and K3:

K1K2 \u003d K1K3 \u003d Sk + 3.5 cm \u003d 19: 2 + 3.5 \u003d 13 cm.

From points K2 and K3 we draw straight lines down to the intersection with the bottom line and set points H2 and H3.

The bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

Set aside 1 cm from H1 down and connect with points H2 and H3.

Side cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T5, B4 and K2 with a smooth line. Further down, the side cut line goes in a straight line from point K2 to point H3.

Step cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points K3 and Ш5 with an auxiliary dotted line. From K3 up we set aside the value of the segment K3 Sh1 (from the drawing of the front half of the trousers) minus 1 cm and put the point Ш6. We divide the dotted line between points K3 and W6 in half, from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 0.6 cm.

We connect points Ш6, 0.6, K3 with a smooth line.

The middle section of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T4, B3, W4 and W6 with a smooth line, thereby completing the construction of the back half of the trousers.

Rice. thirty Cut details

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the width of the bottom or the configuration of the side and step sections, as well as using other simple tricks, you can achieve the desired result.

Before cutting, do not forget to check the pattern for the main parameters and only after that proceed with the layout on the fabric, observing the direction of the grain thread indicated on the cut details.

After cutting (before basting), for a good fit of the trousers on the figure, it is necessary to pull off the sections between points B3, W6 and W6 0.6 with an iron.

We will post the tricks of the processing technology for men's trousers in subsequent articles.

Clothing constructor

Good day, dear readers! Just as it is difficult to imagine a person living in the conditions of modern civilization who does not have at least one pair of shoes, it is impossible to imagine a man who does not have trousers. Therefore, we will not talk about the importance of this type of clothing. Let's just say that if you have a pattern-the basis of men's trousers, you have in your hands a kind of "key to all doors": after all, with its help you can create absolutely any type of men's belt clothing (that is, what is worn on the lower part of the body ) - from classic and sports trousers to jeans and shorts. Modern men's fashion is diverse, and every representative of the strong half of humanity - regardless of age, build and individual preferences - can find a suitable style for themselves. Today we will share with you the secrets of designing men's trousers. Well, let's start, according to the established tradition, with a short digression into history. So,

The history of classic style trousers

Men's suit of the classical style (or the so-called "English cut"), similar in its principles to the modern one, appeared already in the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a rational wardrobe of men's clothing similar to the modern one was formatted and approved. The most widespread among all types of other clothing since the beginning of the 20th century was the suit, consisting of a jacket, vest and trousers, which acquired stable shapes and lines and became a classic type of men's clothing of the 20th century. Over the next decades, the classic types of menswear, and trousers among them, depending on the prevailing fashion, underwent certain changes (sometimes quite insignificant in some seasons).

At the very beginning of the 20th century, to change fashionable image men were greatly influenced by changing living conditions - the development of various sports, the distribution of cars, airplanes, motorcycles. For sports and new activities, new, more appropriate costumes were created, the forms of which provided much greater freedom of movement, and the image conducive to greater ease of behavior.

So, we offer you a retrospective look at the fashion that has touched men's trousers within the last century*.

20s

By the end of the 1920s, the shape of the trousers, in comparison with the beginning of the century, becomes more straight, even along the entire length, the narrowing of the shape downwards disappears, the vertical of the rigidly ironed fold is accentuated. Separate sharp shapes and curves of the figure are leveled, smoothed out: the waist is less emphasized, the hint of roundness in the abdomen disappears - the entire silhouette of the suit approaches a rectangle, and the shape of the trousers also contributes to this.

30s

During the early 1930s, trousers become wider from top to bottom, more spacious and are laid with soft folds at the waistline, in addition, they lengthen to the heel. The width of the trousers is hidden by more and more rigidly ironed vertical folds, which make their shape narrower, flattened in front, but wide and straight in profile. By the end of the 1930s, trousers were becoming rigid rectangular shapes.

40s

The most characteristic fashion trend of the 40s was the increase in the width of the trousers from top to bottom, their increasing spaciousness. At the end of this trend, their width at the bottom reached 30 cm or more. They gave the impression of a common large and static mass and resembled "two skirts". The entire male costume of this period as a whole was characterized by the predominance of masculinity and strength in the images, it was distinguished by its clarity, militarization of forms.

50s

Since the end of the 1940s, the masses and forms of clothing have been decreasing, fabrics have been lightened, lengths have been shortened, and widths have decreased. In the 1950s, trousers that were still loose at the top gradually narrowed down, fitting the legs. Their average width along the bottom was recommended 22.5 cm, and at the knee - 2.5 cm wider. They are slightly shortened so that the colored socks are visible, and this further facilitates their shape. The folds of the trousers are rigidly and strictly ironed.

It is worth noting that in real life this transition from loose-fitting trousers to skinny ones was carried out slowly and gradually: men were more conservative in fashion then, and at that time it was also a consequence of economic difficulties. Therefore, men in old-fashioned, baggy suits with wide trousers in the form of "two skirts" continued to appear for a long time, until the mid-50s, along with others dressed in completely different fashionable uniforms.

However, the youth of the 50s, having picked up the trend of narrowing trousers, is carried away by it to the extreme, and by the end of the 50s. trousers reach down to 20 cm or less at the bottom, turning into pipes that are tight-fitting legs. So, for example, young sailors who wanted to look fashionable in the 1940s sewed in, and in the 1960s plucked wedges from their uniform trousers, violating the established standard for their width. It was during this period of time that the term “dandies” appeared, which was fixed for those who followed the fashion unusually boldly for that time.

60s

In the 1960s, there was a significant change in the criteria of aesthetics and culture of men's clothing - expediency, convenience, and comfort became the leading principles. And in search of these principles, bold and irreversible innovations occur - fashion designers borrow for men's suit elements from work, sports, and even women's clothing relinquishing past prejudices.

So "Texas", later called jeans, for a long time were working clothes - practical, reliable and comfortable. Their second birth took place just in the 60s of the XX century, and jeans became one of the most significant fashion discoveries. The functionality and sporty dynamic style of jeans was emphasized by a tight-fitting cut for legs and hips, decorative stitching of all details, metal rivets, and original pockets. Skillfully placed and decorated pockets accentuated those parts of the body below the waist that were not so openly revealed by the costume before.

In the second half of the 60s, the trousers lengthen, reach the middle of the back of the boot, their bottom line is beveled - they are shorter in front by 1-15 cm. In addition, they become less narrow and straight from the knee to the bottom (average width - 23 cm). top line The trousers fall from the waist to the hips, tightly fitting them and releasing a slender waist.

Due to the fact that fashion now offered a diverse range of shoulder clothing - jackets, blouses, pullovers, turtlenecks - the jacket loses its compulsion even in business suit. And, as a result, more attention began to be paid to trousers, as an independent element of clothing (their shape, finish, details). The silhouette of trousers by the end of the 60s began to acquire a trend of expansion from the knee down.

70s

In the early 70s men's fashion there were still two styles - classic and sporty, and two silhouettes - semi-adjacent and straight. The trousers still fit tightly around the hips, widen at the bottom (from 21-23 cm to 27-30 cm) and lengthen, covering the heels of the shoes. In addition, 4-5 cm wide cuffs that weight down the bottom of the trousers appear. Legs in flared trousers help to emphasize narrow hips and, in general, we can say that the classic suit of the early 70s has a youthful character. In addition, silhouette legs are additionally lengthened due to shoes with thick soles and high heels, like in women.

By the mid-70s, the overall volume of clothing increased slightly, and the forms softened. The trousers are already expanding downwards a little less, they are already more loose fit than flared ones with a more relaxed, even shape along the entire length, with a tight fit on the hips and the waistline in a natural place. Yes, and the shoes are returning to the classic parameters.

By the end of the 70s, the trousers become a little shorter and narrower from the hips down, and one or two folds are laid from the belt. Width at the bottom from 24 to 28 cm, depending on height.

80s

In the 80s, the classic version of the suit was dominated by straight, fairly wide trousers, most often with soft folds at the waist. IN sports style a variant of trousers appears, baggy at the top (the volume was also created using folds at the waist) with a pronounced narrowing down - the so-called "bananas".

90s

In the 90s, with the rise of grunge and the increasing popularity of rap and hip-hop, the fashion for baggy trousers flourished, as well as trousers of incredible width with a very low rise, revealing the belt of underwear. Also one of the popular models are cargo pants - military-style trousers with numerous patch pockets. In the early 90s, in the classic version, the trousers are still quite voluminous and retain folds at the waist; by the end of the decade, their width gradually decreases, keeping the silhouette straight from the hip.

2000s

The first decade of the new century is difficult to characterize by any single stable trend, there is a frequent change of styles. Not without some bright touches, of course. For example, model women's pants with a greatly underestimated crotch seam (forming a kind of “crotch” between the legs) by the middle of the 2000s, it also migrated to the men's wardrobe. However, few hurried to take advantage of such a novelty - mainly advanced youth. One can only mention about classic trousers that their width is no longer strictly regulated, but throughout the decade it remained very moderate. Folds can be found only in rare copies, and it is recommended to iron the trousers of the trousers.

Modern trousers

So, what options does fashion provide for men now, in the second half of the 10s of the 21st century? These are the most diverse models of trousers, their width at the bottom in the “calm” version of models straight from the hip or knee can vary from 22 to 26 cm. given the elasticity of the fabrics used, it can be 20 centimeters or less.

So, let's give examples of some types of trousers, the names of which can be found in the men's clothing catalogs of our days.

Pants that are part of a classic suit now rarely have pleats at the waist. Basically, given the age difference of the category of men wearing such suits, these are models that are straight from the hip, sitting quite tightly on the hips with an average fit along the waistline. In more youthful casual style suits, trousers are becoming narrower and shorter, taking on the appearance of pipes already well known to us from the 50s of the last century.

You can also often find such a name for trousers as " slacks "- literally it can be translated as "lazy", but in modern English there is such a translation of this word as "wide trousers". However, this term does not always mean wide trousers, but refers mainly to trousers that are not part of a suit and are a relaxed version of regular dress pants. Slacks look more casual than dress pants, very often they do without ironed arrows at all, and you can combine them with more than just business items.

Chinos , like slacks, are not a specific model, but they also have a number of features that make it possible to identify them among other types of trousers. These are colored trousers, most often sewn from 100% cotton (but given the current trends towards cheaper production, they are also found from mixed fabrics). The cut may vary, but according to modern trends, it is also usually tapered. Others distinctive features are slanted front pockets and the presence welt pockets behind.

Whatever the model of trousers is called, skinny models are at the peak of popularity, and if a taut figure allows, you can choose both a classic and a casual version in such a silhouette. For those who have a more solid physique, or those who, due to their age, are not suited to the pursuit of every trendy trend, there is an option to choose trousers with a straighter and calmer silhouette, and at the same time also look stylish and timely!

So, let's get down to what we have gathered today - to build a basic pattern for men's trousers.

Building a pattern for the base of men's trousers

Required measurements and other quantities

In order to build a pattern, we need the following figure measurements:

• Distance from the waistline to the plane of the seat Ds - measured from the side in a sitting position from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat.
• Hip girth About- measured at the level of the most protruding points of the buttocks horizontally around the body, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen (for this, a flexible plate is placed behind the tape wrapping around the waist line, placing it vertically to the stomach and when measuring, a centimeter tape is drawn over it).
• Waist From - measured horizontally around the body at the level of the waist line.
• Inner leg length day ** - measure the distance from the crotch to the floor along the inner surface of the leg with the legs slightly apart.

** Actually, instead of leg length Dn ,you can use:
1 ) measure waist to floor distance Dsb(measured from the side!);
2 ) or immediately ask what you need pants length dB from the waistline (which is less convenient and, for the most part, subjective, so how it can still be determined - a little later ...)

The entire basic grid of the drawing of trousers is based on these measurements, therefore, if you imagine how the lines of this grid correspond to the lines of a human figure, it will be easy for you to remember and logically reproduce the sequence of construction, and also to imagine how the shape of the trousers will change when the increments and relative position change the main horizontal lines of the grid.

In addition, you will also need to set this parameter:

• Pants width at the bottom shn

As we saw in our retrospective review, bottom pants width- the value is not constant, and largely depends on the fashion. We want to have basic pattern , which can be taken as a basis for modeling a variety of styles of trousers. Therefore, in our example of construction, we will take the average value of the width of the trousers at the bottom - 25 cm. Given this parameter, we can get a pattern of moderate straight trousers, and from it, through certain transformations, you, if desired, will get a pattern of any other - narrow or wide - trousers.

The length of the trousers also depends on the width of the trousers at the bottom - because, depending on the degree of fit of the leg, distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp will be different.

And now it's the same a little bit later”, which we talked about when we said that when building base grid we can use the length of the pants dB : The length of the pants from the waistline can be obtained as the distance from the waistline to the floor Dsb minus Rnp

Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp

And the value of the quantity distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp you can choose based on the width of the trousers:

• For wide trousers (Shn = 28-32cm) Rnp = 3-4 cm
• Dl moderate trousers (Shn = 24-27cm) Rnp = 5-6 cm
• For narrow trousers (Shn = 20-23cm) Rnp = 7-8 cm

Let's repeat again: no need to measure and Chipboard , And day …. enough to measure one thing!

Building a pattern of trousers

So, now the most interesting: consider EXAMPLE building a drawing on a figure with the following parameters:

• Ds =26.6 cm
• About= 102 cm
• From = 84 cm
• day = 85.8 cm (or Dsb =116.4 cm)

Additionally we use:

• Shn = 25 cm.

Accordingly, with such values ​​​​of the width of the trousers and the distance from the waistline to the floor, we can immediately determine the estimated length of the trousers using the formula:

• db = dsb – Rnp = 116,4 – 5 = 111.4 cm

We will also need Increases :

• to the hips: Psb = 1 cm
• to the half-circumference of the waist: Pst = 0.5 cm

That is, to the real girths in our example, the increase will be: along the hips - 2 cm, and along the waistline - 1 cm.

In fact, the increase in the hips when building on older figures, as well as figures of greater fullness *** can be increased to Psb = 2 cm.

*** Under " completeness » in male figures, the difference between chest girth Og and waist circumference From . The smaller this difference (it can also be negative), the greater the completeness.

Slightly increase the gain on the hipsPsb makes sense when the value of the total difference is less than 10 cm. So, although the measureOg and is not used directly when constructing a drawing of trousers, it will not be superfluous to measure it! Recall that the girth of the chest is measured (the one that interests us - the so-called "third") at the level of the nipple points horizontally around the body.

Building a drawing grid

So, what the basic grid looks like - you could already imagine thanks to the drawing presented above. Let us explain its construction in a little more detail, and so that we have it before our eyes, we present it again:

Draw a vertical line - trouser fold line. This will be the line along which the arrows on the trousers are ironed if they are provided in your model.

Mark a point on this line T and draw a line through it. It will be waistline the front half of the pants.

from point T set aside the measurement along the fold line down Ds(distance from the waist line to the plane of the seat) and mark the point W. Draw a line through a point W- it will be stride line .

For example: TS=26.6 cm

The next drawing grid point is a point H, indicating the position of the horizontal bottom lines . You can get it in two ways (depending on what measure you "stocked" - day or Chipboard):

1. from the point W down, lay the length of the leg along the inner surface day and mark the point H(in this case, you will need to specify the length of the finished trousers when trying on), or ....
2. from the point T down the length of the trousers Dl and mark the point H.

For example: SHN= 85.8 cm, or TN=111.4 cm

Divide the segment SHN in half and mark a point 5 cm above the resulting point TO. Through the dot TO draw a horizontal line - this will be the approximate level of the knees.

For example: NK\u003d 84.8 / 2 + 5 \u003d 47.2 cm

from point W set aside ¼ measurements Ds and mark the point B. Drawn through a point B the horizontal will hip line .

For example: SB\u003d 26.6 / 4 \u003d 6.7 cm

Building the front of the trousers

To the left of the dot W on the step lines mark a point Ш1at a distance equal to Ob / 12 + 0.5 cm.

For example: SHSH1\u003d 102/12 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm

To the left of the dot Ш1 on the step lines mark a point SH2 at a distance equal to about / 16-0.5 cm.

For example: Ш1Ш2\u003d 102 / 16-0.5 \u003d 5.9 cm

From a point Ш1 up draw a vertical line up. Mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B1, and with a waist line - a dot T1.

from point T1 set aside 1 cm to the right along the waist line and put a dot T2.

Mark an auxiliary point Ш1" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the front. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш2Ш1Т1 at a distance of about 3 cm from the point Ш1. For large sizes(with a hip circumference of 110 or more) this value should be increased to approximately 3.5 cm.

SH2, Ш1", B1 And T2. It will be middle line the front of the trousers.

from point T2 along the waistline to the right, set aside a distance equal to From/4+Pst(where Pst\u003d 0.5 cm - an increase along the waistline) and mark the point T3.

For example: T2T3\u003d 84 / 4 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm

from point B1 along the line of the hips to the right, set aside a quarter of the girth of the hips and mark the point B2.

For example: B1B2\u003d R/4 \u003d 102 / 4 \u003d 25.5 cm

from point H along the line of the bottom of the trousers to the left and to the right, set aside half the measurements shn(pants width at the bottom) minus 1 cm and dot H1 And H2.

For example: HH1=HH2\u003d Wn / 2-1 \u003d 25 / 2-1 \u003d 11.5 cm

From points H1 And H2 draw vertical lines up to the intersection with the line of the knees and mark the points of intersection K1 And K2.

Spend sideline H2, K2, B2 And T3. At the same time: points H2 and K2 are connected by a straight line segment, in the section K2B2 the line has a deflection to the left by 0.5 cm, and then point B2 smoothly connects to point T3 (with a deflection to the right also about 0.5 cm).

Spend step line the front of the pants through the dots H1, K1,SH2. At the same time: points H1 and K1 are connected by a straight line segment, and in the section K1Sh2 the line has a deflection to the right by 1 cm.

So, we have received the detail of the front half of the trousers! Further construction of the contours of the back of the trousers is based on the same drawing.

Building the back of the pants

from point Ш1 to the right set aside a quarter of the distance SHSH1 and mark the point Sh3.

For example: SH1SH3=SHSH1/4=9/4=2.25 cm

From a point Sh3 draw the vertical up and mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B3, and with the waistline - T4.

Along this vertical from the point B3 set aside a quarter of the distance B3T4 and mark with a dot B4.

For example: B3B4=B3T4/4\u003d 19.9 / 4 \u003d 5 cm

from point SH2 set aside half the distance to the left Ш1Ш2 and put a dot Ш4. from point Ш4 put down 0.5 cm - and get a point Ш5, the extreme point of the "bow" of the back half of the trousers.

For example: W1W4= W1W2/2= 5.9/2=3cm

Ш4Ш5= 0.5 cm

Set aside 2 cm along the waistline to the right - get a point T5, and another 2 cm up from the point T5- get a point T6.

Also mark an auxiliary point Ш3" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the back. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш4Ш3Т4 at a distance of about 4.5 cm from the point Sh3.

draw a smooth line through the dots Ш5, Ш3", B4 And T6. It will be middle line the back of the trousers.

Calculate the solution of the waist tuck on the back half of the trousers Vomit: it will be 15% of the difference between the hips and waist.

For example: Rip=0.15(Rev-From)=0.15*(102-84)=2.7cm

From a point T6 draw a cut- back waistline - until it intersects with the waist line of the front half, mark the point T7. Cut length Т6Т7 will be equal to a quarter of the circumference of the waist From plus a rear tuck solution.

For example: T6T7=From / 4 + Rvyt \u003d 84 / 4 + 2.7 \u003d 23.7 cm

In the middle of the segment Т6Т7 put an end to T8. from point T8 left and right set aside half of the solution of the back tuck Vomit/ 2 - these will be the edges of the tuck. And down perpendicular to the segment Т6Т7 from a point T8 set aside the length of the tuck (about 12 cm) - a point is obtained T8", top of the tuck. Connect the top of the tuck to its edges.

Along the line of the hips to the right of the point B3 take a quarter of the circumference of the hips plus an increase in the half circumference of the hips Psb in 1 cm, mark the point B5.

For example: B3B5=OB/4+Psb=102/4+1=26.5 cm

At the level of the knee line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points K1 And K2– received points K3 And K4.

And at the level of the bottom line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points H1 And H2– received points H3 And H4. Slightly bend the bottom line of the back half of the trousers between the points H3 And H4- about 1 cm down.

Spend sideline H4, K4, B5 And T7. In this case: dots H4 And K4 connected by a straight line, on the site K4B5 the line has a deflection to the left of about 1 cm, and then the point B5 smoothly connects to the point T7(with a small, no more than 0.5 cm deflection).

Spend step line the back of the pants through the dots H3, K3, Ш5. In this case: dots H3 And K3 are connected by a straight line segment, and on the site K3Sh5 the line has a deflection to the right by 1-1.5 cm.

The drawing of the back half of the trousers is ready!

Pants details

In theory, since we have drawings of the front and back halves of the trousers, then, in principle, it is already possible to sew trousers on them straight silhouette. But, besides the fact that you will need auxiliary details - such as a belt, pockets, codpiece - it will be necessary to adjust the contours of the main details themselves a little more. What will this adjustment be?

First of all, I would like to say that the pattern-base of the trousers that we have now received provides for the location of the line for attaching the belt of the trousers at the level of the waist line. What in real life NOT meets!!! Even if the trousers have a very “high” fit, the belt sewing line will in any case be 1-1.5 cm below the natural waistline.

And in the conditions of modern fashion, the line of attaching the belt of trousers can be located not only at the level of the ilium, but even lower. Thus, it is obvious that the waistline will need to be lowered.

Immediately, you will probably have a question: if you still have to lower the waistline, then why didn’t we do this right away when building the drawing? Naturally, we could take this into account, but in this case we would have to have at our disposal slightly different dimensions of the figure:

• instead of waist From use the waist circumference at the level of the trouser belt Otb
• determine how much the girth Otb is below the girth From - natural waistline (let's call this distance "belt position" Pp )
• when determining the length of trousers dB through the measurement of the distance from the waist line to the floor Chipboard the value of the “belt position” should be taken into account: Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp - Pp
• when constructing the basic grid, the segment TS determine also taking into account the "position of the belt": TS = Ds – Pp
• the length of the tuck on the back half of the trousers is also shortened by an amount Pp

If you already have the same original drawing, just built according to the “original” measurements, then you will need to adjust the contours of the front and back halves of the trousers, lowering the waistline by the required amount Pp . As a rule, in classic trousers, the belt sewing line is located 4 cm below the natural waist level, since the width of the belt itself is 3.6 - 4 cm. The belt sewing line is marked on the front and back halves of the trousers with lines parallel to the corresponding sections of the waist line. How it will look is shown in the figure below.

The converted contours of the details of the front and back halves of the trousers are shown in this figure with a thick line.

Depending on the model of the trousers, other details may vary, but as an example, this figure shows the construction of some of them.

What else might be needed details :

Agree, it will be very cool if your son, brother, husband or father receives wonderful trousers sewn by your hands with love as a gift. These pants will fit perfectly on the figure, meet all the requirements, as you can choose the fabric and other details to your liking. It remains only to learn how to sew men's trousers so that they look neat and elegant. This is exactly what will be discussed in the article. I would like to immediately note that, unlike women's, men's trousers have a number of exceptional features. Preservation of classic trousers for a long time beautiful and neat appearance associated with these features of tailoring. Trousers for a man should be durable and, at the same time, elegant, which is why it is so important to pay attention when sewing. Special attention details.

Sewing men's trousers with your own hands - the order of work

Tailoring of any clothes begins with the construction of a drawing (pattern). You can cut the trousers yourself or use ready-made patterns.

Important! Using finished pattern, be sure to check the coincidence of the drawing with the control lines of the waist, bottom, knee, hip and step.

In addition to building a pattern, the technology of sewing men's trousers involves the following additional operations:

• Cutting out the lining - for the classic model.
• Arrow styling.
• Side pocket processing.
• Processing of the upper cut with a stitched belt on a corsage tape.
• Codpiece processing.
• Processing the bottom of the trousers.

Let us dwell in detail on each of the above sewing procedures.

Rules for cutting trousers, taking into account the model, size and pattern of the fabric

Initially, in order to sew men's trousers, it is necessary to correctly calculate the fabric. Here are some recommendations:

• Standard men's trousers can be cut from 120-130 cm of fabric 150 cm wide. Such fabric consumption can be considered the norm for small sizes (up to 44 inclusive).
• For trousers with a volume of more than 115 cm, the material consumption increases to 1.5-2 m.
• For the cut of loose-fitting trousers, the fabric consumption rate can double, and then 2.5-2.6 m of fabric will be required.

Important! To accurately calculate the required amount of fabric, mark the width of the fabric on the floor 150 cm and lay out the patterns. It is only important to fit the patterns in width, taking into account the cuts of the edge of the fabric and allowances. Do not forget about allowances along the waistline (1.5-2 cm) and bottom (4-6 cm). All other parts of the product will be placed in the resulting lunges.

A few words about the free cut

Loose-fitting trousers differ from other models in that no matter how hard you try to fit the details of the pattern into 1.5 m in length, nothing will work. Therefore, we recommend that you immediately buy two lengths, taking into account all allowances, and then you can freely place both parts of the product pattern on one side (along the edge) at once. For cutting out the belt and other details, use the remaining, folded in half, large lunge.

We do the layout on the fabric

To properly cut the fabric for trousers, use the following tips:

• Lay out the patterns on the fabric from the wrong side.
• To build a pattern, you need to take the following measurements:
  1. Half waist.
  2. Half hip.
  3. Half knee.
  4. Seat height.
  5. Pants length to the knee.
  6. Pants length on the side.

Important! According to these measurements, a drawing of a pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers is being built. If you are using ready-made patterns, then check the main lines by measured standards, modify or upgrade the drawing to suit your model.

• Apply patterns to the fabric with chalk or a thin bar of soap. You can use a pencil on light fabrics, but the lines should be thin and almost invisible.
• Fold the fabric in half before patterning. front side inside, and chip off the edge with pins so that during work (chalking and cutting) the fabric does not move. If the fabric pattern is plaid or striped, then align it also along the edges (transverse). Pin the edge with pins.
• On fabrics with a one-sided pattern or pile fabrics with a pile or with an asymmetric check, place the patterns in one direction.
• Cut pile fabrics so that the pile on the product lies from top to bottom.
• Calculate the size of the seam allowances, depending on the type of material and the method of processing sections. On loose fabrics, increase the seam allowance by 0.5-1 cm. Cut off excess material when overcasting.
• Before proceeding directly to cutting, steam the fabric from the wrong side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the type of fabric, since shrinkage is different for each material.
• Lay out the details of both halves of the trousers so that the fractional thread runs along the ironing line. To do this, measure the distance from the edge of the fabric to the ironing line in several places on the pattern. Align these points with a chalk line. Thus, you will transfer the ironing line to the fabric.
• After the cutting is completed, outline all the control lines with interlining stitches, and iron the ironing line.
• At the final stage of cutting the product, sweep and grind the darts on the back half and at the waist. After that, perform a wet heat treatment and proceed directly to the tailoring of the trousers.

Cutting out the trouser lining

One of the main differences between the classic model of trousers is the presence of a lining on the front halves. The lining protects the product from “stretched knees” while working at the table. The lining is cut out according to the shape of the front details of the trousers. The length of the lining should be just below the knee.

After cutting out the lining, proceed to the connection of the front and back parts of the trousers:

1. Connect the lining to the front and back halves at the same time.
2. Overlock the bottom edges of the lining.
3. Sweep the trousers and prepare for the first fitting, on which determine the width and length of the trousers, the height of the trousers at the waist level, the entry line to the side pocket, and eliminate the fit defects.

Making arrows on trousers

Make any changes after the first fitting and rout the trousers: sew the seams and iron them (except for the middle seam).

To draw arrows on trousers, proceed as follows:

1. Fold each leg separately so that the inseam matches the side seam.
2. Pin the fabric with pins.
3. Iron with an iron (through a flap of cotton fabric) in the centers to get even arrows.

Side pocket processing

Men like to keep a variety of things in their pockets - keys, phone, money, credit cards, so pockets should be strong enough and moderately deep. The fabric for the pocket burlap should be dense. Usually, for this purpose, dense twill is chosen to match the color of the trousers (or contrasting shades, depending on the model).

To arrange side pockets, you must perform the following steps:

1. Prepare burlap for pockets.
2. Process the lower parts of the burlap with a gap.
3. Treat the top of the burlap.

We will describe all the details of pocket processing below:

• The burlap consists of two parts for one pocket - the lower and upper. The depth of the burlap is equal to the length of the brush + an additional margin for freedom of movement of the brush. In order to cut out the details of the burlap, put your hand on paper (fabric) and circle around the contour. Depending on the wishes, the pocket can be made in any shape and size.
• There should be two parts located in a mirror image per pocket.

Important! When cutting out the details, do not forget to add allowances along the bottom of the burlap (1-1.5 cm).

To process the bottom of the burlap with a valance, proceed as follows:

1. Cut a gap along the warp thread from the same fabric as the pants. The gap should not be too small, but not too large, so that when processing the pocket, the burlap itself is not visible. One side of the valance should be framed by a smooth line, repeating the angle on the trousers in the area where the pocket is located.
2. Overcast the rounded edge of the valance.
3. Sew a gap on the burlap piece.

The second part of the burlap must be connected to the trousers along the side and top seam, after supporting the side seam from above. Proceed like this:

1. Align the corner of the burlap with the top corner of the trousers along the side seam and connect along the marked line of the entrance to the pocket.
2. Cut the resulting allowance on the burlap to 1-1.5 cm.
3. Unfold the burlap and stitch the top corner of the leg on it. The burlap allowance should be inside.
4. Bend the burlap inside the leg exactly along the pocket entry line.
5. Fix the entrance to the pocket with an iron.
6. Secure the pocket entry line with front side finishing stitch (0.5 cm from the fold).
7. Connect the top and bottom of the burlap with a machine stitch, matching all the cuts.
8. Smoothly shape the corner of the burlap. Process the cuts on an overlocker.
9. Pin the side seams together with the burlap.
10. After finishing the pockets, join the legs at the middle seam and sew them with a double stitch for strength.

Important! To keep the pocket entrance firmly, place the cross machine bartacks on the pocket - near the side seam and the top cut of the trousers.

Codpiece processing

The fastener in men's trousers is processed in the same way as in ordinary ones, one feature is the codpiece. The usual fastener processing involves a codpiece made from the same fabric as the trousers. In the classic version, this part consists of two parts, made in this way:

• 1 part is cut out from the main material (trouser) in one layer without a fold. The edge of the codpiece must be overcast.
• The 2nd part of the part is cut out of the lining fabric in two layers and is 15-18 cm longer. At the end, the codpiece should be slightly narrowed.

To sew men's trousers with the right fit, connect both parts of the part together in a straight line. The processing of both parts is carried out in the same way as in ordinary trousers. The only exception is the elongated part of the codpiece, since it is necessary to turn around the middle seam, fixing it in several places with machine rivets.

Home clothes should give a person the opportunity to relax, so for women there are pajamas and , and men prefer shorts and indoor sweatpants. But there are also sheet trousers in the form of house pants, with an elastic band, which men will like. You can sew them from any fabric and even in a strip or a cage. These homemade trousers can become part of men's pajamas. In order to sew home pants for a man, you need to take measurements and build simple pattern. Let's build a pattern of pants, for relaxing on an elastic band, according to the following measurements: waist semicircle 44cm, hips semicircle 52cm and pants length 110cm. If these are not your measurements, then substitute in the course of the description of the construction of the pattern and get a pattern for the desired size. We start building with the front half of simple trousers. If the numbers are marked *, then they are constant for all sizes.

Draw a right angle, with the apex at t. A. From t. A down, set aside a 110 cm measure of the length of the trousers and mark t. N. Draw an arbitrary line from H to the right. Set aside 28 cm from t. A downwards, designate t. From t. W to the right, an arbitrary line.

Divide the distance from t. W to t. H in half and set aside 6 cm from t. Division to designate t. K. Draw an arbitrary line from t K to the right.

Set aside from t. A to the right, designate 28 cm as t. From t. T down, draw a line to the intersection with the first horizontal line, t - ku. designate the intersection as Ш1. Then, from t. T down, set aside 1 cm, designate t. T1. From t. A to the right, set aside 2 cm, designate t. T2. Then connect T2 and T1.

From t. W to the right, set aside 32 cm, designate W2. According to the calculation: 1/2 measurements of the semicircle of the hips plus 6cm* 52:2+6*=32cm. Draw a line down from v. Sh2 until it intersects with the lower horizontal line. Mark the intersection point as H1. Extend the line to the intersection with the second line and designate point K1.

Bow line. From the point Ш1 along the line dividing the angle in half, set aside 3 cm. Set aside 6 cm from point W1 upwards, put point W3. Draw a bow line through the points T1, W3, 3, W2.

Step seam. Set aside 6 cm from point H1 to the left, put point H2. Connect points W2 and H2. Mark the point of intersection with the KK1 line as K2. Divide the distance from point W2 to point K2 in half. Set aside 0.5 cm from the division point to the left at a right angle. Points Sh2, 0.5, K2, connect.

Side seam. Set aside 17 cm from point A down, mark point B. Set aside 6 cm from point H to the right, mark point H3. Draw a line through T2, B, W, H3.

Pattern of men's pants back half

Copy the pattern of the front half of the pants and finish the pattern of the back half of the men's pants. Set aside 8cm from point W2 to the right, put point W4 according to the calculation of 1/4 of the distance from point W to point W2 32:4 = 8cm.

seat line. Set aside 6 cm from the T point to the left, put the T3 point. Connect points Ш2 and Т3 with a dotted line, divide it in half and set aside 0.5 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle.

Divide the distance from point Ш2 to point Ш4 in half, set aside 1 cm from the point of division down. Set aside 0.5 cm from point Ш4 down and put point Ш5. Draw the seat line through the points W3, 0.5, T3 and further up, extend the line by 5 cm and put the point T4. Continue the seat line through points Ш3, 3, Ш2.1, Ш5.

The waist line of men's pants. Set aside 29 cm from t. T3 to the left, designate T5, according to the calculation: 1/2 measurements of the semicircle of the waist plus 7 cm * 44: 2 + 7 * = 29 cm. Connect points T4 and T5. From point K1, extend the line to the right of arbitrary length. Set aside 2 cm from point H2 to the right, designate H4. Connect points Ш5 and Н4. The point of intersection with the horizontal line KK1 designate point K3. From t. Sh5 to t. K3, divide the distance in half and set aside 0.5 cm from the dividing point to the left. Connect points Ш5, 0.5, K3, got a step seam.

Set aside 2 cm from point H3 to the left, mark point H5. Connect points T5 and H5. The pattern of pants for men is built, when laying out on the fabric, make an increase for the seams.