Making a skirt-sun.
Master class with step by step photos
Description: The technology program provides for the manufacture of a skirt in the 6th or 7th grade. This master class follows from many years of experience as a technology teacher, tested on more than one generation of children. Manufacturing operations are very simple and understandable for any novice dressmaker. However, knowledge is required:
1. Manufacturing terminology garments. (available in technology textbooks, on the Internet)
2. Skills of working with a sewing machine
3. Knowledge of safety rules for manual, ironing, machine work.
The material can be useful for technology teachers, students, for independent work on a project, for those who want to sew a fashionable skirt with their own hands.
Purpose: Technology lesson, work on a project, self-tailoring of a skirt.
Purpose: Learn to sew a tapered skirt competently and in accordance with technological requirements.
Tasks:
- sew a skirt.
- improve the skills of working with fabric, on a sewing machine
- to study the technology of making a tapered skirt.
- to educate accuracy in work, perseverance, striving for high-quality performance of work.
Tools and materials:
1. Hand tools and accessories:
-Needle for manual work
-Tailor's chalk
-Tape measure
-Tailor's scissors.
- English pins
-Sprayer
-Ruler
-Thimble
2. Sewing machine
3. Iron.
4. Ironing board.
5. Ironing machine (a piece of cotton fabric. Approximately 70X70)
6. Overlock (If available. If not, you can use a zig-zag stitch, or hand overcast seams)
7. Special foot for attaching a hidden zipper fastener (it is included in the set for any machine, or is sold in a special store)
8. Threads for handicrafts (contrasting color) -1 bobbin
9. Threads for machine work (matching the fabric) - 1-3 bobbins (3, if we process the cuts on an overlock)
10. Fabric.
11. Sealing strip (non-woven or adhesive fabric - depends on the width and length of the belt)
12. Concealed zipper 12-18cm
Master class progress:
1. Getting started with taking measurements for sewing a tapered skirt. You only need 2 measurements:
Waist circumference - From. For my skirt From = 68 cm.
Product length - Di For my skirt St = 40 cm.
You should get such a pattern (One of the layout options, taken from the Internet)
2. We calculate how much fabric is needed. You will need knowledge of some formulas, without mathematics anywhere:
We calculate the radius R according to the formula for the circumference:
C = 2p R, R = C: 2p, where: C is St: 2, n is constant PI = 3.14.
R = 68: 6.28 = 11cm
Add up the results and multiply by 2:
R + D + 10cm. (for hem and shrinkage, if the fabric is cotton or linen, if synthetic, 5 cm is enough).
(11 + 40 + 10) x 2 = 61x2 = 122 cm. We buy 1m 20cm
3. Preparation of fabric for cutting:
Decatting: we wash the fabric in hot water(the water temperature is the same. In which you will wash the finished product), dry, iron.
We check if there are any defects, mark with chalk on the seamy side.
4. Open the skirts:
Fold the fabric in half along the share thread (the share thread runs along the edge)
Set aside the radius from one of the corners (set aside so that there is 1 fold on the part)
Draw an arc of a given radius using a centimeter tape, marking several points at a distance equal to the radius, connect the points.
Draw an arc from the same vertex, equal to the sum of the radius and length of the skirt, using a measuring tape.
Add 2-3 cm along the bottom of the part for hem and base.
Build the second part of the skirt in the same way. (do not forget to add on the hem!)
Add 1 cm along the top cut.
Chop off the details along the outlined lines.
Cut out the details of the skirt.
5. Bias cut tends to stretch when worn and washed, to avoid this, you need to for 1-2 days hang cut skirt details by attaching a small weight to the bottom (using tape or clothespins.)
6.Fitting parts... Lay out the details of the skirt on the table. Using a long ruler or tape measure, check the length from top to bottom in several places. Trim off excess fabric. The cut is ready to be cut.
7. Preparation of the skirt for 1 fitting:
Transfer the chalk lines from one side to the other using copy stitches along the bottom, sides and top of the parts.
Place a needle-forward seam along the chalk lines.
Sweep the details of the skirt, leave 1 of the side seams 10-12 cm uncombed.
8. Carrying out 1 fitting:
Try on a skirt.
Make adjustments if required.
9. Closure processing:
Overcast the side cuts of the front and rear panels.
Open the zipper.
Attach one side of the "zipper" to the side cut, pin it as shown in the photo
Baste the zipper, remove the pins.
Sew with a special foot. Be sure to fasten the lines at the beginning and at the end.
Remove the threads with a ripper.
Treat the other side of the clasp identically.
Side seam processing:
Sweep the side where the fastener is processed.
Sew this side with the special foot, starting from the end of the zipper stitching. It is very important! Be sure to fasten the lines at the beginning and at the end. We stitch, stepping back from the thread trace, by 0.1 cm.
Press the seam first from the inside out, then from front side... At the same time we iron on the "zipper". Attention! If the fabric is synthetic, we monitor the temperature of the iron, or use a damp iron (cotton fabric)
Sew the second side seam with a stitching seam. We sew with a regular foot.
11. Belt processing.
Cut out the belt. Be sure to cut along the shared thread. D.N. must run along the seam seam! Belt width varies by model. Usually varies from 4 to 10 cm + 2 cm at the seams. Length - St + 5cm. It's good if you have a whole piece of fabric, but if not, you can make a seam, you just need to position it at the back!
Cut out a non-woven or adhesive cloth gasket. The width of the sealing strip will be equal to the width of the belt + 2 cm. But if the non-woven fabric is thin and the belt is wide (as in my case) we glue the entire belt.
Sew the parts of the belt. Sh.Sh- 1cm. Press the seam apart
Stick on the gasket.
Find the middle of the belt and lay the thread trail with contrasting threads.
Overcast one of the longitudinal cuts on the overlock
Machine stitch along the upper edge of the skirt (to prevent stretching)
Sweep the belt, stepping back from the thread trace by 0.1 cm. On the front panel of the skirt, we release the belt by 4 cm, on the back - 1 cm. Try again, make sure that the skirt is neither small nor large at the waist!
Stitch, stepping back from the thread trace by 0.1 cm. Be sure to fasten the lines at the beginning and at the end.
Remove threading.
Process the ends of the belt with a facing seam, bending along the middle line. To make the ends the same, draw the filing lines with a pen. Be sure to fasten the lines at the beginning and at the end.
Cut the grinding seams to about 2 cm.Unscrew the corners, straighten with a special peg (if it is not there, you can use a pencil or a pen)
Sweep the ends of the belt, forming an edge of 0.2 cm from the front side of the belt. Sweep the belt, bending along the marked line in the middle.
Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below
Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.
Posted on http://allbest.ru
Ministry of Education and Science of the Chelyabinsk Region
GBOUSPO (SSUZ) Chelyabinsk technical school of textile and light industry
CORRESPONDENCE OFFICE
PRACTICAL WORK
Development of technology for manufacturing a women's skirt
Student of the KM-2 group
Murdasova Alesya Alekseevna
Chelyabinsk 2005
Introduction
skirt fabric slot seam
By design, skirts are distinguished: straight, flared, and oblique cut - flared ("half-sun" and "sun"). Skirts can have yokes and pockets (overhead, welt, and in the seams). Skirts can have slits or slots.
The upper cut can be processed with a belt, facing, hem seams, including pulling the elastic tape, cord.
Skirt closures can be finished with piping or zip at the seam (front, back or left side).
The hem allowance is hemmed on a special blind stitch machine, sewn on a sewing machine, and secured with an adhesive spider web.
There must be hangers on both sides of the skirt. Most of the skirts (with the exception of pleats, corrugation, "half-sun", "sun") are made with lining. The lining should be above the hem line and above the spline.
Belt, slots, fastener allowances are duplicated.
1. Selectop models
In the history of fashion, there are several versions of the appearance of the pencil skirt. According to one of them, we owe the appearance of this must have of a woman's wardrobe to the creative genius of Coco Chanel. The model emerged as an evolutionary reimagining of the little black dress. Coco herself believed that there is nothing more unattractive than women's knees. But the thin waist and curvature of the hips deserve to be emphasized.
According to another version, the pencil skirt grew out of the hobble skirt, popular in the 19th century (from English - "lame skirt"), a long and narrow skirt to the floor, which was tied with a ribbon at the knee level.
Be that as it may, as a separate model, the pencil skirt began its triumphant march on the catwalks at the end of the 40s of the twentieth century. It became the highlight of the new look trend presented by Christian Dior. And the Second World War only strengthened the position of the pencil skirt, since the men returning from the front preferred to see the fair sex as feminine and seductive as possible. This style has also remained popular due to its simplicity of cut and inexpensive materials.
Hobble skirt Dior pencil skirt
By the 80s, a pencil skirt had become a necessary and indispensable attribute in the life of a business woman.
A pencil skirt today is a strict cut, a straight silhouette, a reasonable length - more often "French", that is, covering the knees. Often this model is sewn with a high waist. Thanks to this, the figure looks thinner, its curves are even smoother and more sexy, and its legs are longer.
In order for the elegance and grace of a pencil skirt to be on your side, it is necessary to correctly select both the top and bottom for it, and do not forget about the accessories.
In the office, laconicism is welcome. Classic shirts and blouses, pullovers and turtlenecks, jackets and jackets are ideal for a pencil skirt. For an evening outing, exclusive tops and blousons, spectacular fitted jackets will make a perfect pair with a pencil skirt.
Shoes for a pencil skirt are best suited with high heels. Preference should be given to hairpins that visually stretch the figure. Choose classic pumps, fashionable shoes or ankle boots depending on the season.
The pencil skirt has not gone out of fashion for many years. And the thoughts of designers one way or another return to this model again and again. Donna Karan is considered the most devoted admirer of the pencil skirt. The history of fashion is a topic in which a certain line of time can be traced. We present a timeline of rather unusual content - this is the story of the women's skirt. In ancient times, ladies were considered the height of indecency if the skirt did not cover the toes of their shoes.
Times have changed and today the length of the skirt is a rather democratic thing and depends solely on the taste of the fair sex.
For thousands of years, people have not seen the need to separate men's and women's clothing. In the nascent civilizations, the semblance of a skirt - a loincloth, an apron - had almost no differences in gender, age and position. But the evolution of everyday life, moral, aesthetic, ethical and religious ideas have changed clothes.
For young men of ancient civilizations, it remained short, for noble ones, it lengthened. Women's clothing became more closed and featured a long skirt.
In the 16th century, Spain became the capital of fashion - it was she who established what skirts noble people should wear. This time is characterized by the immense width of the skirts, which became so heavy that the ladies simply could not lift them. Then a frame of hoops was invented. Covered with brocade, adorned with jewels, these skirts were very expensive. The skirt of those times is a whole structure; having installed it on the floor, they simply "entered" it, and then fastened it to the corset.
Then the skirt in the form of a dome became fashionable. By the middle of the last century, the skirt was already somewhat simplified. The metal frame was replaced with a crinoline: a linen sheath braided with horsehair, which was soon replaced by a wire frame. By the end of the 19th century, the skirt had already become an independent belt product. However, what all these skirts had in common was that they completely covered the legs.
The democratization of life also softened the view of fashion. In 1911, the French couturier Paul Poiret released the first model of a skirt-trousers, for which he was anathema.
Further, a significant time in the history of the skirt was the 1920s, when the Charleston skirt came into fashion. The hem became its main advantage. It was specially made uneven to visually give the impression of the length of the skirt below the knee. In fact, during the dance, the legs were bared to the very thighs.
In the late 1930s, designer Cristobal Balenciaga created a balloon dress, which in the 1980s was interpreted as a balloon skirt. The flower skirt was created by the famous designer Christian Dior. They were incredibly curvaceous and sank below the knees.
The year 1964 went down in skirt history thanks to the English designer Mary Quant, who offered the women of the world a new style of mini skirt, and it was a real revolution in the fashion world. According to legend, one day she found her friend Linda Kwaisin while cleaning the apartment in an old skirt cut off with scissors so that the long hem did not interfere with her work. Since then, the length of new skirts in Mary's store has decreased by several centimeters every month. In the first year, more than 200 thousand English mini-skirts were sold in France alone. The fashion designer was awarded the Order of Economic Merit by Queen Elizabeth II of England. It is believed that the Queen was grateful to Mary for the sharp increase in the birth rate in Britain as a result of the mini.
Thus, in the 60s, a complete collection of different models of skirts was formed, variations of which are used by today's fashion designers. The length of the skirts varies from just above the ankle to just below the waist.
In the 70s, fundamental changes took place in the nature of mass fashion. Determining the fashionableness of clothes, they began to talk not only about styles, length, but also style. The features of each style are created by cut, shape, fabric finishing, a set of clothing items, as well as various additions, bijouterie and cosmetics. Currently, the main styles are:
Classical;
Youth;
Sports;
Denim;
Folklore;
My style is classic.
The classic style has certain canons. Classic-style skirts should definitely look modest and very simple. The shades and colors of the fabric should not be flashy, but rather modest, dull: gray, black and its shades, shades of brown, muted purple, green. Classic skirts can be of any length, except too short. This skirt is already called a miniskirt. The optimal length for this style of skirt is slightly above the knee or to the knee. The tulip skirt looks very elegant, it fits nicely and emphasizes the figure. Skirts may have a very small slit on the leg line. For a skirt in a classic style, an abundance of folds are not used, especially flounces and frills.
There are things in fashion that, despite all the changes in tastes, preferences, attachments, remain to a certain extent unchanged. General opinion recognizes them as excellent, exemplary, exemplary. The proportions of classic style clothes correspond to the natural proportions of the human figure, the lines of shapes and details are simple and laconic.
2. Selectop material
I thought about the color scheme of the skirt, choosing black - the color of refined taste, which at all times is at the top of fashion, hiding figure flaws. The beginning of the image is considered to be the color, and the beginning of the style is the fabric. It is necessary to take into account the properties of each type of fabric:
Cotton fabrics have a lot of soak shrinkage, which is their main disadvantage. Cotton fabrics are beautiful, iron-on well, crumble little and are relatively durable;
Linen fabrics shrink when soaked, wash well, stretch little, crumble, and are hard to iron, which is the main drawback. Relatively durable. They look very nice and tidy;
Woolen fabrics wrinkle a little, when soaked they have a large shrinkage, are hard to iron, hold their shape well after ironing;
Viscose fabrics are beautiful, solid, shrink when soaked, the structure of these fabrics is very mobile, which complicates work with them;
Synthetic fabrics have almost no shrinkage, are durable, elastic.
However, these fabrics relate differently to high temperatures and require caution when ironing. My choice is gabardine fabric. Fabric properties: gabardine is a fabric made from the highest grades of carding yarn. The weave is diagonal.
It should be noted that the fabric made from natural raw materials is matte, and synthetics add shine to it, and the more artificial fibers are in the composition, the stronger this shine. The characteristics of the fabric will vary depending on the type of fibers in its composition, but there are still general properties: The material drapes softly, beautifully, especially when cutting along the side.
Despite its high density, the fabric is quite light and soft.
Holds its shape well and does not deform during washing.
Good air permeability.
Resistant to wear and tear.
Good performance: easy to iron, good stain removal.
Resistant to getting wet. The threads in the fabric are twisted so tightly that they repel water. The material, which is 100% polyester, is quite cheap in cost, so it is loved by people who are just beginning to comprehend the basics of sewing.
3 ... Sketch
4. Development oftechnologistsand the manufacture of this model
1.Check the cut details
2. We sweep and grind darts
3. Iron the darts to the middle of the panels.
4. Sweep and grind the side cuts.
5. We sweep and grind the middle seam of the back of the skirt panel, leaving the middle seam in the fastener section unstripped, and not finishing to the bottom by a distance equal to the size of the slot.
6. We iron out the side seams, having previously swept their cuts,
7. Iron the middle seam of the back fabric of the bottom of the skirt towards the fastener.
8. Mark the hem line for the bottom.
9. We process the slot.
10.We process and iron the bottom of the skirt.
11. Sew in and sew in a zipper,
12.We process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt.
13. The final WTO of the skirt.
5. CompositionindolencetechnologicalOhsequenceand processing unit
Technological sequence of processing the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt.
1.Check the cut details.
2. Duplicate the belt.
3. Grinding the ends of the belt.
4. We attach the belt to the upper cut of the product.
5. We attach the belt to the upper cut of the product.
7. Iron the weld seam allowances.
8. Bend and baste the cut of the belt on the product, the line is laid in the seam of the belt.
9.Stitch the belt cut onto the product; the line is laid in the belt attaching seam.
11. WTO node ready-made.
6. Control questions
1. What methods of connecting the lining to the skirt do you know?
2.How to properly process the slot in the middle seam of the skirt?
Very often, the seams of skirts end with slots or cuts.
To process the splines when cutting, it is also necessary to leave allowances of 4--5 cm wide.Work the upper side of the splines with a one-piece allowance, bending it along the line of the continuation of the seam, and press it on. Overstitch the allowance on the underside of the splines with a strip of the main fabric or lining fabric (9). Sew the bottom corners with a hem allowance. From the right side, insert a reinforcement stitch by the width of the allowance (10).
1.Packing adhesive on the top of the slots
2. Gluing glue to the bottom of the slots
3. Machining the corner of the upper part of the slot
4. Processing the corner of the bottom of the spline
5. Connection of the upper and lower parts of the splines
6. Fastening parts of the slots with a finishing stitch
Posted on Allbest.ru
Similar documents
Justification of the problem, scheme of implementation, choice of model. Selection, justification for the choice of fabric. Equipment, tools, accessories for sewing. Construction of a drawing, modeling of a skirt, technological sequence of production, cost calculation.
practical work, added 10/02/2009
Development and implementation of a project for self-tailoring of a skirt under the guidance of a teacher. General characteristics of the product. The choice of material and its properties in accordance with the shape and purpose of the skirt. Technological sequence for making a skirt.
creative work, added 05/24/2009
Basic tools and accessories for processing cut details: scissors, needles, threads, measuring tape. Analysis of ways to eliminate defects in a straight skirt. The sequence of processing darts, processing features of the zipper in the middle seam of the skirt.
presentation added 03/25/2012
Analysis of the modern trend in the fashion of women's skirts. Sketches of models and description of their decoration. Basic requirements for textile materials for the manufacture of a skirt. Characteristics of fastening, finishing materials, accessories.
term paper added 05/24/2013
Theoretical information about the processing of products of the belt group and the formation of practical skills in the manufacture of a women's straight skirt and classic men's trousers... Processing darts, slots, belts, pockets, fasteners and hem. Description of the package of materials.
laboratory work, added 01/13/2013
Selection, justification and design of the model, the technology for constructing the drawing of the base of the four-piece skirt and cutting. Basic techniques of beadwork. Decorating a four-piece skirt with beading, materials and tools required for embroidery.
term paper added 03/02/2014
The history of the emergence of a skirt as a wardrobe item for a woman, its difference from a dress or tunic. Consideration of the main samples and analogues. Study of the rules for cutting fabric for the sun-flared model. Calculation of material costs for sewing a product.
presentation added on 02/14/2014
Model design development women's jacket from denim. Description of the recommended materials. Selection and justification of equipment, fixtures and modes of product processing. Ways of joining parts and modes of technological processing of products.
thesis, added 10/29/2010
Justification for the choice of the model. Technological sequence of product processing. Processing of side and shoulder seams, necklines and armholes, bottom of the dress. Workplace for performing manual, machine and ironing work. Final finishing of the product.
term paper added 09/26/2014
Consideration of the key stages of creating a straight skirt: design (building parts, preparing a sketch of models), design (measuring a human figure, calculating the main parameters), drawing, modeling (changing the contours of a structure), design.
Ministry of Education and Science Russian Federation
Federal state educational institution
higher professional education
"East Siberian State Academy of Education"
Faculty of Technology and Entrepreneurship
Department of Technology, Entrepreneurship and Teaching Methods
Direction: 050100
Teacher Education
Profile: Technology
Form of study: part-time
Grebenyuk Larisa Anatolievna
Technological features of making a skirt.
Course work
Head: N. G. Mamaenko
(Full name, academic degree, title)
The work is approved for protection ________________
(date, signature)
Head of the Department ___________________
(Full name, signature)
Defense date _______________________
Mark ___________________________
Irkutsk, 2014
Content
Maintaining
Chapter 1 Justification for Model Selection and Product Manufacturing
Skirt fashion direction for 2013 …………………………………… 5
1.2 Skirt …………………………………………………………………… .7
1.3 Characteristics of materials, tools and fixtures for the manufacture of the product ............................................................. 8
Chapter 2 technology of manufacturing a product
2.1 Organization of the workplace taking into account safety requirements ……………………………………………………………… .11
2.2 Skirt manufacturing technology …………………………………… ........ 15
Conclusion …………………………………………………………… ..24
List of used literature and sources …………………… 25
Application
Introduction
For almost several millennia, people did not even think about separating clothes into women and men. For our ancestors, a loincloth, an apron, a semblance of a skirt served as a cover, regardless of their gender, age and social status. However, over time, ideas about clothing have changed. In ancient civilizations, the skirt was part men's clothing, moreover, among the representatives of the nobility, it was longer than among ordinary youths. That is, with the help of a skirt, men tried to emphasize their importance and social status. Women wore even longer skirts. And in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, women generally did without skirts - the basis of their wardrobe was made up of tunics and raincoats. Everyone knows that gradually, the skirt has become the subject of an exclusively female wardrobe, the only exception, perhaps, is the Scottish kilt.
The skirt by the way of wearing refers to belt products... It can serve as an independent type of clothing, or be part of a set. By design, skirts are casual, home, sports, uniform, for relaxation and for a special occasion.
In cut, they can be straight, flared (or conical) and wedge, according to the number of seams - single-seam, two-seam, multi-seam. Skirts are sewn from cotton, linen, woolen, silk fabrics. The choice of fabric depends on the style, the purpose of the skirt, and the season. The skirt has changed its shape more than once over the centuries.
Course work topic: "Skirt making technology".
The aim of the course work is: Develop technological documentation and make a skirt.
Coursework object: Manufacturing technology of garments.
Coursework subject: Technological process of making a skirt.
For the full implementation of this goal, the following tasks:
1.Analysis of literature on the topic of the course work.
2. Develop technological documentation for the manufacture of a skirt.
3. Make a graphic representation of the node-by-node processing of the skirt.
4. Make a skirt.
When performing the course work, the following were used methods:
Analysis, generalization, synthesis.
Chapter 1. Rationale for model selection
For real fashionistas and just lovers of dressing beautifully, it is interesting to know about fashion trends 2014 year.
Skirts of an extraordinary style will be popular: a skirt - a bell, a tulip and a pencil; also A-line skirts and small "school" skirts. The hit of the summer will be maxi skirts (long skirts) and corrugated skirts. The skirts will be quite varied.
At the peak of success in 2014, there will be models of the most unusual skirts in color, style and texture of the fabric.
Mini skirts- they were and will be popular. Short skirts can be classic and bright colors. When choosing a mini skirt, you need to be sure that it will show the features of the figure well and profitably.
Retro skirts ... “Everything new is a well-forgotten old”, so the long-forgotten retro is back in fashion. In 2014, tight knit skirts will be relevant. Retro skirts 2014 can be made from various fabrics, but the most fashionable options are retro skirts made of velor, shiny dense silk, and leather-like fabric. The colors of the 2014 retro skirts can be different: these are monochromatic options, and monochrome, and a cheerful, bright, juicy print.
Floor-length skirts- another trend in 2014. These skirts are suitable for almost all girls. Summer version of long skirts to the floor - these are things made of cotton or linen, they can consist of tiers, with frills and decorative trims of tiers. Floor-length skirts can be straight in silhouette and fit the female figure favorably, or they can be wide, flying, light. Even advanced style experts sometimes find it difficult to say how balloon skirt differs from the model called "tulip" - like here and there there is a voluminous cut and an oval shape. A compromise was nevertheless found: in a shortened form, the skirt should be called "tulip", and in cases where its length goes below the knee, it becomes a "balloon". Black, white or colored, short or long - pleated skirts good in any form, they are allowed to be worn by everyone and without restrictions.
For a party, a great option would be pencil skirt which is sewn of leather. For spring and autumn, knitwear will be relevant. And in summer you can pamper yourself with translucent skirts, as well as satin, chiffon and silk skirts.
Classic straight skirts... Skirts of the most ingenuous cut, sewn from rectangular panels and not designed to fit snugly to the figure, are in vogue.
In the 2014 season, a wide variety of skirt models are in fashion, for all tastes and shapes. Every woman can choose her wardrobe from those things that suit her best. From the desire of people to improve clothes, to make them more beautiful, more comfortable.
Changes in fashion are constantly taking place, the period of existence of certain fashion trends in clothing is very short, 2-3 years. The creation of fashionable clothes is subject to the laws of beauty, convenience and elegance. (Appendix, p. 3-4)
Model Description
Classic style straight skirt made of semi-woolen fabric for everyday wear, tapered at the bottom. The upper cut is processed with a stitched belt, the fastener is a zipper in the left side seam, and there is a closed slot on the back panel.
Fig. 1 Sketch of a model of a skirt
1.2 Characteristics of materials, equipment, tools and fixtures
The choice of fabric depends on the direction of fashion, the season, the environment, the style of the intended model, the purpose and nature of the work.
The fabric must have the following hygienic properties: air permeability, hygroscopicity, heat-shielding properties, wear resistance, certain strength, resistance to washing, and the ability to form during wet heat treatment.
Therefore, the skirt must meet hygienic, operational, aesthetic, functional and technological requirements. That is, the skirt should protect a person from the effects of adverse environmental factors; to ensure the normal functioning of the body (skin respiration, gas exchange), ventilation of the underwear layer.
A certain material corresponds to each season. In winter, velvet, tweed and woolen skirts will be fashionable. For spring and autumn, knitwear will be relevant. And in summer you can pamper yourself with translucent skirts, as well as satin, chiffon and silk skirts. Sheer fabrics will be very popular this season. When making a skirt, the following types of fabric are most suitable:
Velvet
Silk or cotton fabric with a soft, thick vertical pile (1.5-3mm long) on the front side. It is used for sewing women's dresses, skirts, etc., as well as for finishing, for decorative purposes. Originally velvet was made from 100% silk, but now it is also made from cotton, viscose and artificial fibers. It is produced by adding additional yarn to the base in the form of loops up to 3mm high, forming a pile. When sewing from velvet, pay attention to the direction of the pile. Iron very carefully. Velvet should be purchased of high quality with a dense pile that will not split and fall out.
Chiffon
Thin, silky, high-weight plain weave cotton (Appendix, page 5)
Woolen fabrics
Woolen fabrics are produced as pure-woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. Pure-woolen fabrics made of fine wool, which have the best appearance, hygienic and heat-shielding properties, softness and good roll, are highly valued. Fabrics made of coarse wool are inferior in quality to fabrics made of fine wool: they are less wearable, less elastic, and stiff to the touch. Some disadvantage of woolen fabrics is their increased dust holding capacity, which necessitates frequent cleaning of these fabrics.
Pure wool fabrics also include fabrics containing up to 10% of chemical fibers introduced with the aim of improving appearance fabrics.
By the nature of the color, woolen fabrics are produced in plain dyed, multicolored, mélange and printed.
Half-woolen fabrics, in addition to wool, may contain cotton yarn, viscose yarns, textured yarns (melan, crimplen, profiled yarns), chemical staple fibers (viscose, nylon, lavsan, nitron).
In the production of semi-woolen fabrics, two-, three- and more component mixtures are widely used, for example, 35% wool and 65% lavsan; 40% wool, 40% lavsan and 20% viscose fiber.
For sewing a straight skirt, you can use dense narrow and wide fabrics. For the presented product, a semi-woolen fabric was chosen.
Wool blend fabrics containing synthetic fibers are distinguished by a low surface density, low shrinkage, high elastic properties, good fixation of folds (pleated) during wet heat treatment, which remain when worn and do not disappear after washing and dry cleaning. (Appendix, page 5)
Skirt making equipment
Household sewing machine "Chaika" class 142M with electric drive
The machine is designed for grinding parts in the manufacture of products from cotton, linen, synthetic, woolen and silk fabrics.
It can be used for 12 types of different stitches: straight and zigzag stitches, decorative (finishing) stitches, as well as embroidery and darning.
The machine can sew with one needle and twisted pins. With this machine, you can sew on buttons, crochet hooks, buttons, process buttonholes, overcast seams and other operations. The speed of the machine is 1000 rpm. (Appendix, page 6)
Overlock
Universal overlocker Janome 784 / 744d, characterized by the presence of a presser foot pressure regulator and versatility of seams.
Trimming, overcasting and finishing seams in one step! On the finest silk fabrics and satin or dense denim, thick bike and elastic materials. And all this with amazing ease. (Appendix, page 6)
Iron Philips GC 2840
Power 2200 W, volume of a water tank 300 ml, working surface (sole) steamglide, adjustable steam. Mode functions: dry ironing, vertical steam, steam boost, self-cleaning function, spray function. Features: anti-scale, automatic shutdown. (Appendix, page 6)
Tools and fixtures
1.Hand needles - from # 1 to # 12
2. Thimble - must be metal or plastic.
3. Scissors - should be well sharpened along the entire length of the blade, the ends of the scissors should be completely closed.
4. A centimeter tape - must be elastic with well-marked divisions and numbers.
5. Chalk comes in different colors, the edge of the chalk should be sharpened to 0.1.
6. The ruler should be straight and clean, with well-marked divisions and numbers.
7.Pins are used to fold parts of a group of skirts when transferring lines from one half to another.
8. The pencil must be firm and well sharpened.
9. The pad for the needles should be soft and well pierced.
(Appendix, page 6)
Chapter 2. Skirt manufacturing technology
2.1. Organization of the workplace taking into account safety requirements
1.When working on sewing equipment and performing wet-heat work, it is necessary to properly organize the work and the workplace. It should be clean, well lit, and the light should come from the left side. The worker sits on a comfortable chair with a back.
2. When performing manual operations, it is good to put a bench under your feet.
3. Each tool is positioned in its place so that time and effort is not wasted on unnecessary movements. Needles, pins, scissors, thimble are placed on the right. Threads, buttons and other accessories that you may need are on the left. The entire middle of the table is free, the product is laid out on it.
When organizing a workplace, one should not forget about safety measures:
1.All needles and pins should be in special boxes intended for them or be stuck in special pads.
2. Having finished sewing, the needle must immediately be injected into the pillow or into a piece of paralon, laid on the bottom of any small box. In no case should you stick needles and pins into the side of your clothes, your pocket, and even more so, keep them in your lips.
3. When trying on, it is very convenient to put on a bracelet-strip of parolon, to which an elastic band is sewn on both sides, on the left wrist, and stick a few pins into it. Bent, dull, or broken needles and pins should be discarded immediately..
Electric Sewing Machine Safety
-The electric sewing machine must be grounded.
-Before work: remove hair under a kerchief.
-Ends of ties and scarves should not hang down.
-Do not lean close to moving parts of the machine and keep your fingers away from the presser foot to avoid being punctured by the needle.
-Place your feet on the pedal so that your right foot is slightly forward and starts the machine.
- Straighten your back and sit straight on the entire surface of the chair.
-Place the product from the eyes at 30-40 cm.
-Position objects: which are used more often - closer to you, which are taken with the right hand on the right, and those that are taken with the left - on the left.
-Before sewing, make sure there are no pins or needles on the seam line and in the garment.
-Tear off the threads on the product when the machine comes to a complete stop.
-Remove items that are not required for the task.
-Do not be distracted from work while the machine is running.
During work:
-Switching on the electric motor, make sure that it runs smoothly.
-When starting and stopping the machine, put your right hand on top of the flywheel.
-Both hands load evenly with work.
- Move the items by sliding your hands on the table surface.
-Do not thread the machine, change the needle, clean or lubricate the machine while turning it on.
- Observe the working posture, do not bend low towards the machine.
-If the belt has slipped off the pulley, stop the machine by turning off the electric motor.
-If you smell burnt rubber, quickly stop the car.
At the end of the work:
-Turn off the electric motor and stop the machine by pressing the pedal;
-Clean your workplace.
Safety instructions for working with the iron
-Make sure the plug and socket are in good condition, so that there are no knots on the cord.
-Do not connect the device to the network through extension cords and adapters.
-Turn off the devices only by the plug and only with dry hands.
-Work on a rubber mat.
-Do not allow the device to fall.
-In case of overheating, allow to cool down.
-The iron should be on a special stand.
-Do not touch the heated surface of the device, do not check the degree of heating by touching your hand.
-After completion of work, turn off the device from the network.
Safety when working with a needle, scissors and pins
-Put the scissors on the right, blades.
They should be closed, rings to themselves, so as not to prick on their sharp ends when moving.
-Make sure that the scissors do not fall on the floor.
-Pass the scissors in rings forward, closing their blades.
-Do not place the scissors near moving parts of the machine.
-Store the scissors in a specific place (box).
-Sew with a thimble.
-Store needles and pins in a certain place (special box, pillow, etc.) do not leave them at the workplace (table).
-It is forbidden to take needles, pins in your mouth and stick into clothes, and also sew with a rusty needle.
- Attach the patterns to the fabric with pins directed with a sharp end away from the worker.
-It is forbidden to bite the thread with your teeth.
-Collect the pieces of the broken needle and throw it into a specially designated container.
2.2 Skirt making technology
Preparing the fabric for cutting
When starting to cut, look at the piece of fabric for possible weaving or printing defects. They should not get on the parts of the product. Determine the right side of the fabric. Check the nature and direction of the pattern or pile.
On plain fabrics and fabrics with an indefinite pattern, the patterns of the skirt parts can be laid out in different directions. But if the drawing is directed in one direction, then the patterns are placed with the upper cuts in one direction. When cutting fabrics in a strip or a cage, make sure that they match in color, width, pattern and pass strictly in the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt.
On fleecy fabrics, the patterns are placed in one direction. For example, in a velvet or velvet skirt, the pile should go from top to bottom.
There are two ways to lay fabric: fold and turn.
When laying in a fold, the fabric is folded along, with the front side inward, while aligning the edges. This method is used when cutting wide fabrics.
When laying in a turn, the fabric is laid out unfolded in full width,
face down, or in two layers, face in. This method is used when cutting fabrics of different widths.
Layout of patterns for the details of the skirt on the fabric and cutting
1.To identify fabric defects.
2. Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric.
3. Determine the direction of the warp thread in the fabric.
4. Iron the fabric from the wrong side in the direction of the warp thread (remove folds and wrinkles by wet heat treatment).
5.Fold the fabric to be cut on the work bench.
6. Lay out the patterns of the details of the skirt on the fabric.
7.Own the contours of the patterns of the details of the skirt and outline allowances for the seams.
8. Take off the templates and chop off the skirts with pins.
9.Cut out the skirt. Cut the edges of the fabric and fold them together with the cut details. You will need the hem when preparing the skirt for fitting.
(Appendix, page 7)
Technological sequence for making a skirt
1.Preparation of cut details for sweeping.
2.Preparing the skirt for fitting.
3.Conducting fitting. Correction of defects.
4. Processing the skirt after fitting.
Preparation of cut pieces for sweeping
1.Transfer the contour lines from one side of the part to the other side or to paired parts using copy stitches.
2. Draw a fine line in the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt. On the seamy sides of the parts, lay straight basting stitches with a length of 1.5-2 cm along the outlined lines.
3. Cut out two 4x4 cm squares from paper and write on them the names of the skirt parts: front panel and back panel.
4. Basting them alternately with straight basting stitches on the right side of the parts. (Appendix, page 7)
Preparing a skirt for fitting
1.Sweak off the side sections of the front and rear panels of the skirt along the outlined lines, while leaving a non-swept section with a length of 16-18 cm in the left side seam.
3. Join the two edges with a patch seam with open cuts.
4. Basting the hem to the upper edge of the skirt from the wrong side with straight basting stitches 0.7-1 cm long.
5. Bend the bottom edge of the skirt along the marked hem line and sweep.
6. Check the quality of the sour cream skirt.
Fitting. Correction of defects
Fitting:
1. Put on a skirt. Pin off the opening cut in the left side seam of the skirt with pins.
2. To clarify the balance of the product.
3.Check the width of the skirt at the waist, hips and bottom.
4. Specify the length and location of the darts.
5.Check the location of the upper edge of the skirt.
6. Specify the length of the skirt.
After trying on all chalk lines, lay straight basting stitches, transfer changes from the right side of the skirt to the left using the cutter or copy stitches. Lay the product out on the table and check if the stitches are even on all parts. If the skirt has not undergone any changes during fitting, then proceed to the operational machine processing.
Processing the skirt after fitting
Dart processing
1. Determine the middle of the part. On the seamy side, draw a small line in the middle of the part. Lay straight basting stitches along it. Stitch length 2-1.5 cm.
2.On the seamy side, mark the darts in turn with three lines: middle, lateral and transverse, limiting the end of the dart. Choose the length and opening of the dart arbitrarily. For example: the length of the dart is 10 cm, the solution is 3 cm.
3.Fold the part right side inward along the center line of the dart.
4. Sweep close to the side line of the dart, starting from the top edge to the end of the dart, securing the thread at the beginning and end of the stitching.
5.Stitch along the side line in symmetrical darts - one from top to bottom and the other from bottom to top. When sewing at the top, fasten the dart with a length of 0.7-1 cm.At the end, gradually reduce the line to nothing, leaving the ends of the threads 5-6 cm long and tying them to a knot. Cut off the ends of the threads. Process the second dart in the same sequence. Remove the basting threads.
6. Iron the grooves first, then iron to the middle of the part.
7. Iron the slack at the end of the dart by moving the iron from one place to another. (Appendix, page 9)
Side slicing
1.Fold the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt with the right side inward, equalizing the cuts.
2. Sweep the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt along the marked lines.
3.Start. Remove the basting threads. Iron the seams.
4. Process the seam allowances with buttonhole stitches.
5. Iron the side seams.
(Appendix, page 10)
Processing of the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a tape - zipper
Fold the two parts right side in.
Draw a small line of the side seam at a distance of 2 cm of the cut of the parts.
Sweep the panel along the side line along its entire length.
Set aside 16 cm from the upper cut of the part and draw a horizontal line that limits the length of the fastener. Make a side seam from the horizontal line to the bottom line.
Iron the fabric at the seam. Then carefully smooth out the seam allowances along the entire length. Remove the basting threads.
Direct the opened zipper tape under the fold of the slit for fastening on the back panel so that 1 cm remains from the top of the skirt to the beginning of the links, and from the side the fold line approaches the edge of the links. Baste the zipper tape from top to bottom to the end of the fastener at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold with straight stitches 0.5 cm long.
Close the braid - zipper. Sweep its second side, directing the fold of the front panel to the fold of the rear panel so that they match.
Sew a zipper tape from the front side from the upper edge of the front panel to the upper edge of the rear panel, laying a line along the front panel at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the fold, and along the back panel, retreating 0.2 cm from the fold. Remove prefix.
Quality control: the machine stitch is straight, laid at the above distance from the folds of the front and back panels. (Appendix, page 11)
Belt processing, processing of the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt
Belt processing
Duplicate the belt with an adhesive pad.
On the seamy side along the entire length of the belt, draw a fold line, it is located in the middle of the width of the belt. (Appendix page)
(Appendix, p.)
The connection of the belt with the upper cut of the skirt. (Appendix page)
Slotted machining.
Closed slots are processed with a facing or a fold allowance. The width of the allowance is 3 -7cm.
In the section from the end of the fastener down, we stitch the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt, ending the line 1 cm below the upper cut of the allowance for processing the slots, securing the beginning and end of the stitch with bartacks and sweep in the area of the allowance for the slot to the lower cut of the skirt.
Neaten middle seam allowances and slot allowances from waistline to skirt bottom. On the middle seam of the skirt, at the top, there are slots in the upper panel neatly make a notch. Iron the seam, at the same time iron the edges of the slots along the swept seam.
Bend the right (top) side of the part, straighten the seam and the slot, press it down. The bottom corner of the upper side of the slots must be stitched from the inside out along the bottom line of the product. The seam allowance in the corner is cut out, leaving 0.7-1 cm. Turn the corner out, straighten, iron out. Sew the slit allowance to the hem allowance. Fold the bottom of the product, hem, making the bottom of the slots 1-2mm shorter than the top. (Appendix, p.)
Processing the lower edge of the skirt
After trying on the bottom edge of the skirt, process it with a seam in a hem with a closed edge.
Perform manual processing of the lower cut of the skirt:
On the seamy side of the part, draw two lines with chalk:
A) the first - retreating from the cut of the part 5 cm (allowance for the lower hem; cut 4 cm + allowance for processing the seam 1 cm);
B) the second - retreating 1 cm from the bottom cut.
2. Lay straight basting stitches 1-1.5 cm long along the marked lines.
3. Mark the allowance for processing the bottom cut along the marked line, retreating 0.5-1 cm from the folded edge.
Quality control: the width of the machining allowance for the bottom cut must be the same along its entire length. After quality control, iron on the swept allowance.
4. Bend the allowance by 1cm and sweep it along the second marked line by 0.1-0.2cm from the fold.
Quality control: the width of the hem allowance for the bottom cut must be the same along its entire length. After quality control, iron on the swept allowance for the hem of the lower cut of the part.
5. Unfold the part so that the hem to be hem is directed away from you.
6. Sew blind hem stitches with a frequency of two to three stitches in 1 cm with cotton threads # 50-60 in the color of the main fabric. Insert the needle into the fabric, retreating 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold of the hem allowance, and at the level of this puncture behind the main fabric by half of its thickness. When sewing the following stitches, insert the needle into the fabric where it exits the fabric from the previous stitch.
7. Remove the annotation. Press on the hem of the hem.
(Appendix, p.)
Buttonhole and button sewing
Buttonhole processing
Mark the location of the loop on the front end of the belt from the front side with a small shallow (Appendix page) in the following sequence:
A) Two transverse lines that limit the length of the loop.
B) Cut line defining the direction of the loop.
2.Cut the hole for the hinge along the marked line.
3. Overcast the buttonhole sections with buttonhole stitches at a frequency of 10-15 stitches per cm. The distance from the needle puncture to the loop cut depends on the fabric shedding and is equal to 0.1-0.3 cm. Place the stitches at the same distance from the cut and from each other, tightening the thread with the same force. At the ends of the loop, carry out manual bartacks with two or three stitches, placing them across the cut line.
Sewing on buttons:
1.Close the zipper.
2.Place the front end of the belt on the back and mark with chalk through the hole in the loop where the button is to be sewn.
3.Sew on the button.
Conclusion
In the process of completing the course work, the literature was studied. The fashion direction of 2014 is considered, the characteristics of materials are analyzed. All materials fully comply with the requirements for the product: hygienic, aesthetic, operational.
The organization of the workplace is considered, taking into account the safety requirements, the equipment used in the manufacture of the skirt and the technological documentation on the topic of the course work is developed.
As a result, a straight classic skirt was made, taking into account the properties and processing requirements of the product.
The objectives of the course work are completed, the goal is achieved.
Bibliography
1. Glozman E.S., Stavrova O.B. and others, ed. Khotuntseva Yu.L. Technology. Technical labor. - Mnemoznina, 2004 VA.-2nd ed., Ster.-M .: Academy. 2004.- 434 p. Il.
2. Egorova R.I .; Monastyrnaya V.P. Learn to sew: Book. For learners environments. shk. age [Text]: / RI Monastyrnaya - M.; Enlightenment, 1988-158s .;
3. Sasova I.A., Marchenko A.V. Technology: grades 5-8: Program. - M .: Ventana-Graf, 2006 .-- 96 p.
4.Simonenko V.D. Technology for 6, 7 grades. - Publishing Center, 2007
5. Trukhanova A.T. Technology of women's and children's clothing [Text]: textbook / AT Trukhanova.-4th ed., Ster-M: Higher school, 2005.-416s.
6. Chernyakova V.N. Fabric processing technology: A textbook for grades 6-9 for general education. institutions. - M .: Education, 2004
Based on the technical drawing, the technical description and the selected textile materials, as well as the methods of processing the main units, the technological sequence of processing the model of a woman's skirt was drawn up. The technological sequence of processing is presented in table 2.
Table 2 - Technological sequence for the manufacture of a skirt
| P / p No. | content of indivisible transactions |
| Blank section | |
| Checking the availability of skirt cut details according to the route sheet | |
| Duplicating skirt details | |
| Duplication of the inner part of the belt | |
| Duplicating the hem of the hem of the front panel skirt | |
| Duplication of the hem allowance and the allowance in the area of the fastening of the back panel skirt | |
| Belt processing | |
| Grinding the outside edge and ends of the belt | |
| Notching the corners of the belt | |
| Turning out the belt to the front side, straightening the corners | |
| Ironing on the belt while straightening the piping along the outer edge and ends of the belt | |
| Processing the front panel of the skirt | |
| Stitching of relief cuts of the front panel of the skirt | |
| Overcasting a seam allowance | |
| Ironing darts | |
| Processing the back panel of the skirt | |
| Sewing darts on the back of the skirt | |
| Ironing darts | |
| Sewing the middle cut to the notch under the zipper | |
| Overcasting of middle seam allowances | |
| Ironing out middle seam allowances | |
| Sewing "zipper tape" to the allowance of the middle seam of the left half of the back panel of the skirt | |
| Sewing "zipper tape" to the allowance of the middle seam of the right half of the back panel of the skirt | |
| Ironing on the fastener allowances | |
| Adjusting the finishing stitch of the fastener along the edge of the fastener | |
| Ironing on the middle seam of the skirt | |
| Skirt lining processing | |
| Stitching the front and back of the skirt along the side cuts | |
| Overcasting side seam allowances | |
| Ironing out the side seam allowances of the skirt | |
| Stitching the middle cut of the back of the skirt to the notch under the fastener | |
| Overcasting the seam allowance | |
| Ironing the seam allowance | |
| Applying the hem of the bottom of the lining | |
| End of table 2 | |
| Trimming irregularities | |
| Stitching the hem allowance on the hem of the skirt with a seam in the hem with a closed cut | |
| Iron-on skirt lining | |
| Mounting section | |
| Stitching the side cuts of the skirt | |
| Overcasting of skirt side seam allowances | |
| Ironing out allowances | |
| Chip off the side seams of the skirt, check the symmetry of the darts. Drawing the waistline and hem of the bottom of the skirt. Trim irregularities. | |
| Sewing the lining along the waist line while simultaneously laying the folds along the notches in the area of the front and back darts | |
| Sewing the outer part of the belt to the waistline while inserting the hanger along the side seams | |
| Ironing the seam of attaching the belt | |
| Adjusting the finishing stitch along the inner part of the belt while simultaneously folding the cut inward into the seam Sewing on the outer belt | |
| Ironing on the belt | |
| Applying the location of the loop on the belt | |
| Buttonhole sewing | |
| Overcasting hem allowance for hem of skirt | |
| Sewing hem allowance | |
| Ironing on the bottom of the skirt | |
| Finishing section | |
| Cleaning the product from industrial debris, removing chalk lines | |
| Ironing on the belt | |
| Ironing on the back of the skirt | |
| Ironing on the front of the skirt | |
| Applying the location of the button on the belt | |
| Button sewing |
Output
According to the task of the test, a model of a woman's skirt was developed that meets modern trends in fashion. A technical drawing was made with an accurate black and white graphic reproduction of the main lines. The technical description corresponds to construction lines and technological seams.
The choice of materials is substantiated, taking into account all the requirements for the product and materials that make up a package for a women's skirt designed for the spring-autumn period of socks. The main material is offered - semi-woolen suit fabric. the lining is matched to the color of the base material. Hot-melt adhesive was used as a cushioning material. gasket material with an adhesive dot coating, which allows you to maintain the shape of the skirt belt during operation. The confection card contains samples of the materials that make up the package.
Technological processing the main nodes of the skirt reflects the latest developments in the field of technology, based on the technical drawing, the technical description compiled the technological sequence of processing the model of a woman's skirt.
Bibliography
1. Materials science in the production of light industry products / BA Buzov, ND Alymenkova. Textbook for students. higher. study. institutions. - M .: Publishing Center "Academy", 2004. –448 p.
2. Operational machine-automated clothing technology / P.P. Koketkin. - Smolensk, 2003 .-- 232 p.
3. Classification and range of materials used for the manufacture of clothing. Determination of the nomenclature of their quality indicators: method. decree. to the lab. work / Kazan. state technol. un-t, in-t technologies of light industry, fashion and design; comp. L.G. Khisamieva, E.R. Khairullina. - Kazan: Publishing house of KSTU, 2005 .-- 19 p.
4. Technology of garments. / Savostitskiy A.V., Melikov E.Kh. Textbook - 2nd ed. revised and additional, - M .: Light and food industry, 1982. - 440 p.
5. Illustrated guide to the technology of light clothing / AT. Trukhanov. - M .: Higher school, 2000 .-- 176p.
6. Fundamentals of sewing production technologists / А.Т. Trukhanov. - M .: Higher school, 2001 .-- 336 p.
7. Sewing products for individual orders / Textbook M .: IRPO: Publishing house. Center "Academy", 2002. - 528 p.
The technological process of making garments is the processing and assembly of parts and assemblies in a certain sequence. The technological sequence of processing products is understood as a list of technologically indivisible operations corresponding to the order of their execution in the manufacture of parts and assemblies of a product with an indication of the specialty, equipment used, devices, technical conditions.
1. Preparation of fabric for cutting (for any product). Some fabrics are subject to shrinkage during wet heat treatment (ironing), washing. To avoid this, the fabric must be decated before cutting (wet-heat treatment).
-determination of the front side of the fabric (t the cane is usually folded in half in a roll. Woolen fabrics folded face side inward, and silk ones outward. At the edge of the fabric, the punctures are directed from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually brought out to the wrong side of the fabric.
-examination of the fabric for defects(on the front surface of the fabric there should be no: foreign fibers, short thickenings of threads, the absence of one or more warp or weft threads, different shades. There should be no defects in the color of the fabric. Mark any defects found on the wrong side of the fabric with soap or chalk. on them when cutting.
-determination of the direction of the shared thread(The warp thread runs along the edge of the fabric. When laying out patterns, be careful not to deviate from the direction of the warp thread.
-determining the direction of the drawing(if the drawing is directed in one direction, then the patterns should be laid out and the details of the product should be cut in one direction.
If the fabric is smooth, does not have a one-sided pattern, then the details of the pattern can be laid out in different directions, but the direction of the warp threads must be taken into account.
On fabrics with large peas, the middle of the front and middle of the back should go through the center of the peas.
On fabrics with a large pattern, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the pattern. Pay attention to its symmetry!
On checkered or striped fabrics, determine if cells or stripes are symmetrical or asymmetrical. If asymmetrical, then lay out the patterns in one direction.
Lay out the patterns on striped fabrics so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the central strip!
On small parts (valves, etc.), the stripes must match the stripes on the main parts.
The stripes should be located symmetrically at the ends of the collar, lapels.
2. Layout of patterns on fabric, cutting
1. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, align the edges. To prevent the fabric from shifting during cutting, you can split it with pins inside the contour of the parts.
2. First, lay out large parts on the fabric (shelf, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Strive for an economical layout of the patterns on the fabric.
3. At the fold of the fabric, place the details shown on the half size pattern. After cutting out, you get a solid piece.
4. Circle the long lines first, then the short and oval lines. The lines should be straight. You can use rulers and templates to trace the lines accurately and evenly.
5. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can be skewed during chapping and cutting. Be sure to pin them together.
6. After chalking the contour of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the half-line line, the location of the first loop, pockets, darts, folds. After chamfering the parts, mark the seam allowances
7. Cut the fabric strictly according to the seam allowances, holding the cut allowance in your hand (thanks to this rule, the layers of the cut parts are not shifted).
8. Do not forget that when cutting loose fabrics the size of the seam allowances must be increased!
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a pattern of a straight skirt on a fabric with a width of 140cm
b
without a seam and with a seam on the back panel.
3. Preparing the skirt for fitting.
1. Laying guide lines and copying stitches on symmetrical parts or sides along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels, waist, waist, hips.
2. Duplicate the allowances of the slots, fasteners, lay the glue edges.
3. Sweep and sweep darts, folds, reliefs.
4. Sweep and sweep the side and middle sections of the skirt.
5. Cover the bottom of the skirt.
6. Carry out wet heat treatment of the product
7. Duplicate and prepare a belt or bodice.
4. Carrying out the fitting
1. Put the product on the customer's figure. Chip or fasten the clasp. Clarify the balance of the product on the figure by combining the skirt with the customer's figure along the waist, hips.
2. Check the width of the product at the waist, hips, by pinching or pinning the side seams. Clarify the size and direction of the darts. Refine the length of the splines.
3. To clarify the line of attaching the belt, by pinning a belt or corsage tape to the half of the skirt. Refine the length of the skirt.
5. Introduction of changes, clarification. Straight stitches are laid along the marked chalk lines. They outline new lines of seams and interrupt or re-pin them to the other side of the parts.
6. Processing of darts. Darts allow you to bring the shape of clothing closer to the shape of a human figure. Stitch along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the 0.1 ml dart. from the basting stitching. Press the darts towards the middle of the part. Press the slack in the fabric at the ends of the darts.
7. Processing the side cuts of the skirt. The seams in the skirts are processed with stitch seams (crocheted, crocheted), topstitching and linen seams. The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
8. Processing splines in the middle seam of the skirt
Duplicate slot allowances.
Right slit allowance Left slant allowance
Overcast each separately If the skirt is unlined, then the left allowance
medium cut and cuts splines. bend the slots and iron them by 1-1.2 cm.
Sweep seam cuts and slots.
Sew the middle cut and the upper cuts of the splines. Securing slots allowances
Press the middle cuts above the splines. 2nd finishing line.
Press the slot on the left side.
9. Fitting the upper and lower cuts of the skirt. The skirt is cleaved at the seams, darts in half on the right front side. The upper cut is specified or trimmed with an allowance of 1-1.5 cm for attaching the belt. The lower sections of the skirt are specified or trimmed, the allowance line for processing the lower sections of 3 cm is outlined (with soap, and then with straight stitches).
10. Processing of the fastener with a zipper tape.
Invisible zipper processing
11. Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a belt.
1. Duplication of the belt of the skirt
2. Processing the belt of the skirt
a - turning the ends of the skirt belt;
b - belt processing
Basting and stitching a finished waistband to the top of the skirt
1 - the middle of the front panel; The trimmed cut of the sub-belt is sewn into the seam
2 - side seam; attaching a belt or at the waist at a distance
3 - the middle of the back panel 0.1-0.2 cm from its fold (line 2).
12. Bottom section in the skirt processed with various types of edge seams. Most commonly used: hem seam (open or closed cuts). The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
Features of processing a skirt on a lining
1. Cutting the lining of the skirt is carried out according to the patterns of the top, with allowances for processing and freedom, and also add an allowance along the side seam to the part of the back panel at the level of the slot and below, for its subsequent grinding to the allowance of the slot.
2. The back panel of the skirt can be cut with a fold, since the lining material has a strong thread separation, due to the fineness of the material. At the level of the fastener, the lining must be cut out in the form of a droplet, the sections of which are overlapped, folded by 0.5 cm and overlaid by 0.1 cm from the folded edge. The edges of the droplet are hemmed over the zipper with blind stitches. If the back panel of the lining is cut with a seam, then the lining can be stitched to the fastener allowances.
3. The side cuts of the lining are processed with a stitching seam by ironing. The darts on the lining are not stitched, but are folded into the folds on the opposite sides of the dart.
4. Sections of attaching the lining to the belt are overcast together with the belt cut. Above the side seams, when attaching the lining, hangers are inserted, which are harvested from the lining or use ribbons 0.5 cm wide.
5. The lower cut of the skirt is processed with a hem seam with a closed cut.At the bottom, the lining should be 2 - 3 cm shorter than the skirt.
6. If the skirt does not have slits or slits, leave slits in the side seams (15-20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of step.
7. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining must correspond to them.
8. The simplest and most convenient type of processing is to cut an arched section of fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Neaten the edges of the cutout (its width is 4 - 5 cm), fold it by 0.5 cm on the wrong side and stitch.There are more professional ways of processing (see the diagram above).
Methods for processing the lining over the slot, cut.
Finishing the liner above the cut Finishing the liner above the slot
Methods for processing the lining over the slot
Technological sequence of processing a straight skirt
p / pThe name of the technologically indivisible operation
Type of work, specialty
Applied equipment, tools, fixtures
Specifications and requirements for the operation
1.
Stitch darts on p / p and s / p skirts.
M
GC188 MD
Stitch along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the 0.1 ml dart. from the basting stitching.
2.
Iron the darts
Have
PGU-1-120 "ELEGANT" - Ironing unit
Curly semicircular last
Press the darts towards the middle of the part. Press the slack in the fabric at the ends of the darts.
